Big props to Darren W (Splitclimber) for finding some new problems at some of the old boulders and even some good new boulders of his own as well as reigniting the flame of psyche at The Loaf!!
**Update ~ 2018:
200+ BOULDER PROBLEMS AS OF SUMMER 2018!!
2016/17/18 was huge for bouldering at The Loaf with many classic new first ascents mostly at The Sunrise Rocks which now have the hardest test-pieces and the highest concentration of problems in the park. Local legend Kevin Jorgeson put up direct low sit starts to a couple of my old problems for a V9/10 and V10 (both could be harder now since a few holds have broken and gotten smaller) along with Erika Bruno, Tiffany Canevari, Daniel Stone, Ryan Chung and myself adding a few more new lines as well. There is still at least one more possible double digit open project at The Loaf on the Sungazer Boulder traversing from the sit start of Sun God up right into Sungazer Direct finish.
**Update ~ 2016:
~200 BOULDER PROBLEMS AS OF FALL 2016!!
Gustav Zaharias, Garrett Rawlins "G Raw", Addison "Addy" Cox, Liz Balchowsky, Ryan "Mr T" Tolentino and I put up and are still finding and putting up many new problems in the Sonoma Creek Canyon area. So far ~20 new boulders with ~50 new problems ~V1-V7/8ish. And the Sunrise Boulders are being brought back to life after a long hiatus offering ~25 new problems to add to the original ~25!
Check out more info and pics for Sugarloaf Ridge and many other bouldering spots around the Bay Area and all over Northern California in Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering both by SuperTopo.
OLD NEWS:
8-27-10 NEW boulders have been found in the creek near the Upper Canyon Trail Area!
About 30 new problems to add to the 125 in the area makes over 150 total new and old boulder problems at The Loaf now! Most of these boulders have legit access, good trails or easy scrambling and short (1 to 15 minute) approaches. The also short 15-45 minute drive from either the Santa Rosa or Napa/Sonoma areas makes it certain - this is now Sonoma Counties best inland bouldering area for moderate levels (VB/0 - V6/7) or for circuit training. Get out and enjoy the lush forests, waterfalls and unique rocks (schist, serpentine and volcanic-ish) - see you there!
2012(?) Oscar Gomez added a dynamic new V3ish sit start to an old stand start on The Crown Roof at the semi-secret, old school, Coraza Boulders. Great job reigniting the flame of stoke at The Loaf!
Loaf Bouldering is reborn ~ again!!
_________________________________________________________________________
Below are some rough maps, topo pics and info for nearly all of the boulder problems found inside the park - The NEW Upper Creek Boulders (Upper/Middle/Lower) and the main Upper and Lower Canyon Trail Boulders, The Biscuit Boulder and Sacred Rocks near the Goodspeed Trailhead and the seldom visited Sunrise Rocks off of Meadow Trail;
SUGARLOAF RIDGE PARK - Overview Map:
The Crown Boulder
The original old school bouldering zone with a nice assortment of problems and a sweet view!
(Be very careful topping out the Crown Roof or just drop off at the lip and spare the risk)
1 "El Corazon" V1 far left roof into same top as old school.
2 "Old School" V1 mini classic left roof over rock to jug top out.
3 "Noble" V1 left-center roof left top out / or V1/2? right top out?
4 "The Crown" V3/4 direct out center of roof via undercling right and drop - or top out V4 / or V? left?
5 "Sizzling Bacon" V2 low sit then deadpoint/bump up left and drop - or top out V2/3.
6 "Sizzlean" V2/3 same low sit then into right variation and drop off or top out V3?
7 V2/3/4 lip traverse(s) either direction link ups!?
8 VB back side slab of Obelisk - up/down climb.
9 medium tall and steep problem with semi bad tree stump landing on cliffside below Fern Gully V!?
10 ?
THE SACRED ROCKS & THE BISCUIT BOULDER - Map:
THE BISCUIT BOULDER
Directions:
[Off Goodspeed Trail - take a right turn onto a feint deer trail just after the second bridge at the start of Goodspeed Trail (the trail up to Hood Mountain from the southeast/Sugarloaf Ridge side - follow the trail up the creek to a smaller rocky creek coming down the hill on the right side - follow it uphill for about 3-5 minutes to The Biscuit on the hillside on the right side - total hike time = about 10 minutes from the parking area on the northwest side of Adobe Canyon Rd at the Goodspeed Trailhead]
THE BISCUIT BOULDER
1 V0/1 left arete/face.
2 "Buttercup" V3/4 sit start on horizontal crack or "Buttercup Dyno" V4/5 dyno!
3 V1/2 face.
4 "Butterscotch" V2r high face with natural thread.
5 "The Biscuit" V2/3 right face diagonal traverse.
6 "Biscuit Traverse" V3/4 traverse rail left to right up into #5.
7 ?
THE SACRED ROCKS - NO PHOTO
Directions:
[Off Goodspeed Trail - follow the same directions to The Biscuit but don't go up the final creek on the right instead stay in the main creek mostly hiking on the hillside on the right side of the creek but also in and out of the creek doing some bushwhacking and rock hopping then along the left side of the creek to get to the obvious boulders that form an arch over the creek - the boulder on the right side has problems #1-2, the big main rock has the long, classic traverses #3-4 and the classic Call of the Wild #5 and the smaller rock next to it has the harder problems #7-8 - - there are a few other boulders in the area both upstream and downstream from the main Sacred Rocks - total hike time = about 15-25 minutes from the parking area]
THE SACRED ROCKS
1 "Safari" V0r high face on right side of right boulder.
2 "Sacrifice" V3 arete over creek on right boulder (left of #1).
3 "The Sacred Traverse" V2 high V3 low.
4 "The Sugar Traverse" V3/4 high V4/5 low.
5 "Call of the Wild" V2 right side of main rock.
6 "Call of Ktulu" V2 sit start short arete opposite #5.
7 "Enchanted" V4 start #6 then traverse lip to right past the top of #8.
8 "White Fang" V6 left or right variations - pull past namesake tooth on overhang.
9 ?
10 ?
Directions:
[Park at the first pullouts uphill from the Goodspeed Trail parking lot - and take a right turn onto (Lower) Canyon Trail - follow the trail for just a few feet downhill to a large tree on the right side and then take a feint trail downhill to the creek and The Asteroid Boulders - the Neptune Boulders are just a few more minutes down stream - total hike time = about 3-5 minutes to The Asteroid Boulders and about 5-10 min to Neptune]
LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - THE ASTEROID BOULDERS
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 "Cosmic" V2 far left face stand start knob. FA=CS
2 "Space Cadet" V3 stand "Space Monkey" V5 sit. FA=CS
3 "Milky Way Traverse" V7 sit #2 or V6 stand. FA=CS
4 "Assteroid" V0 mantle asteroid knobs - or "Meteor" V2 left start lip rail. FA=CS
5 "Orbit" V5 midway campus start - V2 stand FA= CS/SB low start proj!?
6 "Uranus" V3 lowball lip/arete problem opposite #5. FA=CS/SB
7 "The Fourth Element" V4 stand - or "The Fifth Element" V5 sit - or "Element Arete" V4/5? FA=CS/SB
{8-15 --not on topo--}
*8 "multiverse traverse" V8/9!? start #3 traverse far right into #10*!?
LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - NEPTUNE
1 "Neptune" V6/7 sit - V6 stand.
2 "Neptune Direct" V6/7 sit V6 stand.
3 ?
CANYON TRAIL / SONOMA CREEK CANYON / WATERFALL - Map:
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
This area has the highest concentration of problems and easiest access - it is divided into two main zones with the first being the newly developed zone closest to the parking in the creek and is called the SONOMA CREE CANYON / UPPER CREEK BOULDERS and the other more established main area known as the CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS / UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are down Canyon Trail from the upper parking area - seperate directions are listed for both areas below;
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Upper Canyon Trailhead
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - SONOMA CREEK CANYON BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park the same as for the main Canyon Trail Boulders at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is across the road to the southwest and Pony Gate Trailhead starts from the northeast side of the pullout - across the road from Pony Gate Trailhead just up the road from the pullout is a feint trail down into the creek and the Booger Boulder - The Chatterbox is on the hill above and behind The Booger, hike up the road to the next feint trail then cross the creek and hike uphill past a mossy rock to the boulder - total hike time = about 1 minute from the parking area to the base of The Booger and about 2-3 min to The Chatterbox and about 5-25 min of 3rd and 4th class scrambling down the steep and rocky Sonoma Creek Canyon (summer/fall) to all the other boulders ~ or up from the waterfall in the Lower Canyon Trail area.]
BOOGER BOULDER
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 "Sneeze" V1 sit V0 stand left arete.
2 "Booger Face" V1r stand V2 sit into left arete or V2/3 into direct right (V1r stand) face finish.
3 "Hairy Booger" V2r stand start gaston rail/face over rock/water V3/4 sit start right hand on incut mini jug/edge.
3A ? high face/arete over rock/water!?
4 "Booger Traverse" V4 stand start at big righ hand undercling then traverse right along the lip into the V1/2 finish of Booger Finger - or V4/5 low sit start on right hand sidepull/undercling edge and left on low gaston or lower undercling.
4A ? stand start same as #4 then traverse up left to finish on #1 or #2?? or do the low sit?? or !? traverse the entire main face of The Booger either left to right from #1 into #7 or right to left from #7 sit into #1 to finish - "The Big Booger Traverse"!!??
5 "Snot" V1 stand V2 sit start with low left hand incut mini jug/edge.
6 "Stinging Nettle" V3 sit start just left of incut start hold of Booger Finger and go up left into #5
7 "Booger Finger" V3 low sit into 3 stand starts/finishes; either "Booger Direct" V1 (stand start) top out direct or V1/2 (stand start) traverse up right around corner on sloper lip to mid way mantle top out (V0 stand start off rock) or V2 (stand start) continue traversing higher up right past loose block to the tip top of boulder for the most fun, pumpy classic method and also the end of the Booger Traverse.
7A "Sugar Booger" V4 sit start same as Booger Finger then traverse sloper lip up left into Snot V0 stand or "Hairy Sugar Booger" V5 same start then continue traversing left up into Hairy Booger.
BOOGER BOULDER - BACKSIDE
8 "Nasal Cavity" V3 same sit as #9 then left past nose/horn or start on nose/horn V1/2 or low sit V3/4 start on left hand dihedral seam crimp and make move up right to horn - - or lower !?
9 "Nose Pincher" V1 stand start on upper right hand meat-wrap/nose pinch or "Nose Picker" V4 low. sit or V2/3 mid way start on sloper/crimper rail.
10 "Booger Eater" V6 low sit start #10 up left into #9 the test-piece of the boulder FA=CS
(new - not shown on topo - YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tzy7uSO_2Y)
or "Dirty Booger" V4/5 low sit start up right into #11 or V5/6 sit start.
11 "Olfactory" V0 stand start bulge slab face into the downclimb (#12) to top out.
12 VB easiest way up/down - downclimb.
13 "Nasophilia" V0 steep slab face left or "Mucus Membrane" V1 low sit right arete or V0 stand.
14 short steep sit downstream - left face direct or right arete?
15 stand start short bulge/face in creek next to #14?
THE HANGOVER BOULDER
1 "Rum Remedy" V3/4 sit or V4/5 low sit - AKA "Rumedy"
2 "Hangover Arete" V2/3 low sit up right arete.
3 V1/2 low sit bail right to jug.
THE CHATTERBOX
1 "Chatterbox" V2 stand face on left V2/3 sit.
2 "Hotbox" V2/3 stand V3 sit.
3 "Keep Quiet" V2 stand start V3 sit start steep slab face right of tree then up left into #1.
4 "Tree Spotter" V1 right side of face right of tree.
5 V0 right arete from low face start.
6 "Chatterbox Traverse" V3/4 L to R or best R to L into #1 to finish.
7 VB right arete/lip traverse up left to top.
SWEET TOOTH
1 "Jug Top" V1 sit.
2 "Sweet Tooth" aka "Pinball Wizard" V!? project!?
3 VB traverse from right to left and up.
TREE TOP
1 V0
2 V0/1
3 "Tree Top Traverse" V1/2 traverse usually from far r to l into #1.
4 "Tree Top Left" V0
5 "Tree Top Right" V0
TREE TOP - BACKSIDE
6 ? V1 traverse lip from far right to left end on #4.
7 ? V2/3 low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to left end on #4.
8 "3 Move Blunder" left V2 sit or right V1 sit.
9 V0 stand start V1 low start small boulder.
10 "Heavens Gate" V3/4!? sloper lip - or "The Black Mirror" V!? low start crimper project!?
(below Tree Top blocking creek)
11 ? start lip same as #10 traverse left and top out!?
LOST AND FOUND
1 "Lost And Found Arete" V1 stand V3 sit start.
2 "Apex" V2 stand start pocket or V4 mid start or "All Rise" V6 sit (direct face/no arete).
?
Highball arete in creek!?
Lip traverse or mantle?
Short bulge?
GYPSY BOULDER - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 V0/1 arete!?
2 "The Gypsy" V3 low sit on left arete or "Gypsy Direct" V3 direct undercling start - top out.
3 "Gypsy Traverse" V6 traverse from left to far right.
EGGOTRONIC - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 "Left Eggotronic" V3/4?
2 "Right Eggotronic" V3/4?
3 low mega hard sit project(s)!?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!?
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start?
3 ? low sit - bad landing - short but good!?
4 "Lost + Found" (on previous topo pic)
5 ?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDER - MAIN FACE
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!? (on previous topo pic)
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start? (on previous topo pic)
3 ? low sit - bad landing - short but good!? (on previous topo pic)
4 ? shorty?
5 ?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - LEFT MAIN CLIFF - 5 CRACKS
1 ? left crack corner - tight squeeze?
2 "Volcano Crack" V0 layback/corner crack to jug mantle - downclimb left.
3 "Volcano Direct" V0/1 stand start crack/arete or V? low start - downclimb left.
4 ? crack on right - downclimb left? ? crack to high dirty slab traverse up left to downclimb!?
5 ? traverse/prow!??
6 ?
7 ?
+5+cracks.JPG)
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - CENTER MAIN CLIFF
1 "Amphibian Crack" V0/1? crack traverse r to l to no-hands knee-bar.
2 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse!? (#5 on previous topo pic)
3 ? traverse/prow!?? (#6 on previous topo pic)
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - MAIN CLIFF
1 ? diagonal crack?
2 ? direct boulder problem?
3 ? left boulder problem?
4 ? crack to low traverse over water!?
5 ? crack to high traverse!?
6 ? crack route - rope!??
7 *incomplete route!??
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - OVERVIEW
1 V1 short but good right rail start to lip mantle.
2 "Butt Dragger Traverse" l ro r into #1.
3 ? short left mantle?
4 ? short bulge face proj left or right!?
5 ? short arete/slab?
6 "Volcano Crack" V0 layback/corner to jug mantle - downclimb left. (5 CRACKS)
7 *Upper Falls Boulders / Lost + Found Boulder
SWARMED BOULDER
1 "Swarmed" V5/6 low sit then diagonal up right into V1/2 stand or V2/3 stand start right hand arete and left hand sloper lump then make a move up to pinch and top out!
2 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R slick slab face over bad/rocky landing.
3 V1/2 low start same as #1 then traverse left and up into #2.
4 "The Hive" V4/5 start with right hand low on sidepull and traverse left into #3.
5 ? bulge/face?
6 ? slab?
7 ?
8 "Soundwave Traverse" V1
9 "Dry Hump" V6 short sit start bulge mantle!
10 ?
LOWER-UPPER CREEK - MAIN BOULDERS
1 ? highball roof/face!?
2 ? slick slab under roof/face - left V? or direct/right!?
3 ? arete/prow?
4 ? short but good right start?
5 ? short left start?
6 "Swarmed" V5/6 (listed on previous boulder)
7 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R
8 high arete!??
9 V0 short bloc mantle or low start?
10 ?
11 "Beavis" V0 left boulder with right hand arete.
12 "Butthead" V1 sit or V2 right sit or "Smothers Brothers" V4 far left traverse finish.
13 V1 right face.
14 V!? short sit arete above Beavis and Butthead.
15 ?
SKUNKY FUNKY
1 "Skunky Funky" V4/5 low start arete/bulge or V3/4 stand start!
2 ? left start!?
3 ? right face over bad landing?
4 VB prow
5 V0 start VB prow then traverse right to VB on far right.
6 VB far right.
7 V0 traverse base of volcanic slab cliff - r to l - 40 feet long!
TOWER OF POWER
8 "Tower Of Power" V7/8? lower main face sit left into V0 crack/arete.
9 "Piano Man" V6/7? lower main face sit right into right arete #10!
10 "Tower Arete Traverse" V4 sit start right arete V2/3 stand start into #15.
11 "Zig Zag" 5.10/11? TR southeast arete from start on left side up right then back left.
12 "Rock Slide Traverse" V1 slab traverse up around upper arete into #19.
13 face!?
14 upper arete?
15 upper face?
16 VB easy way up/down.
17 lower upper arete?
18 lower upper arete traverse?
19 left side steep high face!?
20 ?
LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - THE WATERFALL BOULDERS
[~1/2 WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
{problems 1-3 are currently and possibly forever unclimbable due to fallen tree(s))
(Creek above waterfall)
1 "From Dust To Dawn" V4/5R highball left arete bulge face!!
2 "?" Main line from right up left to high jug point on steep roof prow!!??
3 ?
{4-6 shown in above topo pic}
4 "From Dusk Til Dawn" V2/3 left
5 center direct sit low sit start!?
6 "From Dawn Til Dusk" V2/3 right
{7-8 shown in above top pic}
7 "When Doves Die" V5 left arete!
8 right arete low sit!?
9 ?
10 ?
11 ?
12 ?
(Hillside above waterfall)
13 ? slab/face direct/main old line?
14 ? slab/face right?
15 traverse??
16 high arete left or right side!!??
17 right face arete?
18 left roof/arete on hill!?
19 face/arete?
20 ?
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is directly across from the parking and heads downhill to the boulders and the seasonal waterfall - total hike time = 3-5 minutes to The Canyon Trail Boulder on the left and about a total of 5-7 minutes to the main area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS on the left just off the main trail just past the intersection of a smaller trail on the left that switches back down into the creek - it is about 7-10 minutes total from the upper parking area downhill to the base of the waterfall - to reiterate; the main bouldering area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are above the waterfall between the trail and the creek and the creek boulder is just below the main area in, you guessed it - the creek]
SPANKY BOULDER (NEW!) - NO PHOTO
[off the left side of (Upper) Canyon Trail above C.T.Boulder]
1 "Spanky" !?
2 ?
CANYON TRAIL BOULDER
[alongside Upper Canyon Trail]
1 "Trailblazer" V2 stand V5 low sit up face or "Trailblazer Direct" V5 same low sit then up left.
2 "Traiblazer Arete" V1 stand V3 low sit.
3 "Short n Sweet" V0 stand V1 low sit.
4 "Kids Climb" VB+ stand V0 sit.
5 "Fishy Climb" VB sit or VB- stand.
6 "Witches Peak" V0 slab arete mini spire -VB up or down-climb backside.
7 "Canyon Trail Traverse" V6 r to l low into #1 sit or V4 l to r from #1 sit.
HIDE OUT BOULDER
[behind the main Canyon Trail Boulder - main face on backside]
1 "Bunchgrass" V1 sit start or V0 stand start arete.
2 "Leaf Liter" V0 stand - "Sweet Leaf" V3 sit center face or V0 stand or V1 sit center-right.
3 V0 sit.
4 "Hide" V3/4 diagonal seam/crack traverse - stay low - lip off - or use lip "Seek" V0/1.
5 V0 left of #1 low start.
[small front side of boulder facing Canyon Trail Boulder]
6 Four Ferns V6/7 low left sit right hand crimp (loose sharp plate, be careful)!
7 Lush Ferns V3 low right sit into same top out as #6.
*THE SUGARLOAF BOULDERS (Canyon Trail - Main Area)
SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 "Nice" V0- left face/arete.
2 "Not So Nice" V0 center face.
3 "Snips + Snails" V0+ arete/face.
SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - SOUTH FACE
4 "Sugar" V1 arete.
5 "Spice" V2r highball face with slanted hillside landing - spicy!
6 "Old Spice" V1r crack/face.
7 "Spice Crack" V0r crack.
8 "Sugar + Spice Traverse" V1/2 start on #7 and traverse left and up into #1 - or "Snail Trail" V0/1 start #3 traverse up left into #1 or "Sugar Trail" V1/2 start #7 traverse left into Snail Trail.
?BREADLOAF?
1 ?
2 ?
3 ?
4 ?
5 ?
??
1 ?
2 ?
SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 "Finga Tingla Bypass" V0 short but fun left corner/arete/face.
2 "Finga Tingla" V3r right of corner center of steep slab face.
3 "Smackdown" V1/2 stand - V3/4 low sit direct up high arete compression prow.
4 "Finga Tingla Traverse" V4 low traverse from #3 sit up left into #2 or V1/2 into #1.
SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - EAST FACE
5 "Sugar Smack Direct" V3/4 sit start on edges left of jug - jug is off.
6 "Sugar Smack" V1 stand V2 sit start on low square cut jug.
7 "Sugar Mama" V2 stand or V2/3 sit - face on far right, left arete is off.
8 "Sugar Daddy" V3 sit start #3 up right into #6.
LOVE + HATE BOULDER
1 "Love" V0 diagonal traverse up right on semi high arete/jug lip ~ great warmup!
2 "Love + Hate Face" V1/2 center face.
3 "Hate" V1/2 or V2/3 left arete - easier variation uses detached block for feet.
4 "Love + Hate Traverse" V4 right to left low into #3 - V3/4 left to right - block is off.
LOVE + HATE BOULDER - BACKSIDE (NEW!)
5 "Religion" V1 arete sit - V0 stand start.
6 "Politiks" V1/2 face sit - V0/1 stand start.
7 ?
LITTLE PYRAMID BOULDER
1 "Pyramid Power Traverse" V4 low sit on right traverse up left or V2/3 mid sit.
2 "Pyramid Power" V3 sit start or "The Pyramid" V0 stand start on jug.
3 "Pyramid Power Direct" V5 link up eliminate - sit #2 skip jug u left into sloper on #4 and top.
4 "Pyramid Face" V2 start on sloper up into arete - try not to dab the feet.
5 "Pyramid Arete" aka "Try-Angle Arete" V4 low sit on left hand sloper arete and low right hand arete feature V2/3 mid stand - V1 high stand.
6 V2/3 sit roof/slab on back left side.
7 V2/3 left or V3/4 right - short face in pit on back right side of #1.
LITTLE PYRAMID BOULDER - SOUTHEAST FACE
5 "Pyramid Arete" V4 low sit (see above)*
6 V2/3 sit bulge to slab.
BIG PYRMAID BOULDER
1 "Left Wing" V1 left arete/face start left or right.
2 "Illuminaughty" V3/4 stand start same as #3 then left over short crimpy bulge.
3 "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 original classic semi highball corner!
4 "The Alchemist" V4 sit start on low square cut jug on right and traverse left and up into #3!
5 "Hips Don't Lie" V6 same sit on low square cut jug direct up face right of #3 left of #6! V4 stand.
6 "Santa Rosacrucian" V4 sit start on low square cut jug go up to right arete/lip top out aka or "Rosacrucian Traverse" V5 start #3.
7 "Right Arete" V1R right arete or "Right Wing" V3/4 sit #4 up into right arete or start #3 "Right Wing Traverse" V5!?
8 "Knights Templar" V5 sit start #4 end #2.
9 "911" V3 stand start same as #2 and #3 then traverse left into #1.
10 "Illuminasty Traverse" V4/5(?) start #6 or V5/6(?) start #7 traverse left into #9?
CREEK BOULDER (BELOW MAIN AREA)
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit.
2 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit.
3 "Creek Face" V4/5/6 stand/sit ??
4 "Lockwood" V2/3 stand - V3/4 sit.
5 ? traverse !?
6 ?
ARROWHEAD BOULDER
1 "Flaming Arrow" V1 right arete sit V0 stand.
2 "Arrowhead" V3/4 center face low start.
3 "Arrowhead Arete" V2/3 left arete low start V0/1 stand.
4 "Arrowhead Traverse" V4/5 r to l - start on #3 finish #1.
ARROWHEAD BOULDERS
5 V2/3 traverse r to l into #6.
6 V1/2 face.
7 ?
______________________________________________________________________
THE SUNRISE ROCKS - Map:
SUNRISE ROCKS
Directions:
[Park at the Day Use Parking Lot inside the pay area at the top of Adobe Canyon Rd near the campground or, better yet, at the end of the road near the stables and observatory and walk to Meadow Trail and follow it to the first right turn and just before the turn take a left into the creek and try to follow feint deer trails uphill for about 5 more minutes to the rocks located between the creeks on the hill. Sunrise has the highest concentration of boulder problems and top ropes in the park!]
Sunrise Rocks - summitorplummet.blogspot.com
ADOBE CANYON BOULDER
{{??SECRET/PRIVATE??}}
3 main lines with ~10 link up variations and traverses V0-V8
The hardest problem in the Sugarloaf/Adobe Cyn area is "Pipedream Sit" V8 FA: GZ
Adobe Canyon Boulder - YOUTUBE
Sugarloaf Ridge Park "The Loaf" Bouldering - YOUTUBE Playlist
Enjoy!! :)
*9 random bulge stand start(s)?
*10 "Space Ghost" V6 start #4 up right into #15* FA=CS - or "universe traverse" V6/7? start Meteor?
*11 "Heelhookers Guide to the Galaxy" V6 low start up left into #4* FA=CS
*12 "Heelhookers Guide to the Universe"? V7? start #4 into #15*?
*13 "way milky traverse"? V6/7? reverse Milky Way? - or V7/8? start #15*? - or V8/9? start #11!?
*14 V5/6? start #15 into #4*?
*15 V2 far right stand start. FA=DH
{{old topo}}
LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - NEPTUNE
1 "Neptune" V6/7 sit - V6 stand.
2 "Neptune Direct" V6/7 sit V6 stand.
3 ?
CANYON TRAIL / SONOMA CREEK CANYON / WATERFALL - Map:
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
This area has the highest concentration of problems and easiest access - it is divided into two main zones with the first being the newly developed zone closest to the parking in the creek and is called the SONOMA CREE CANYON / UPPER CREEK BOULDERS and the other more established main area known as the CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS / UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are down Canyon Trail from the upper parking area - seperate directions are listed for both areas below;
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Upper Canyon Trailhead
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - SONOMA CREEK CANYON BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park the same as for the main Canyon Trail Boulders at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is across the road to the southwest and Pony Gate Trailhead starts from the northeast side of the pullout - across the road from Pony Gate Trailhead just up the road from the pullout is a feint trail down into the creek and the Booger Boulder - The Chatterbox is on the hill above and behind The Booger, hike up the road to the next feint trail then cross the creek and hike uphill past a mossy rock to the boulder - total hike time = about 1 minute from the parking area to the base of The Booger and about 2-3 min to The Chatterbox and about 5-25 min of 3rd and 4th class scrambling down the steep and rocky Sonoma Creek Canyon (summer/fall) to all the other boulders ~ or up from the waterfall in the Lower Canyon Trail area.]
BOOGER BOULDER
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 "Sneeze" V1 sit V0 stand left arete.
2 "Booger Face" V1r stand V2 sit into left arete or V2/3 into direct right (V1r stand) face finish.
3 "Hairy Booger" V2r stand start gaston rail/face over rock/water V3/4 sit start right hand on incut mini jug/edge.
3A ? high face/arete over rock/water!?
4 "Booger Traverse" V4 stand start at big righ hand undercling then traverse right along the lip into the V1/2 finish of Booger Finger - or V4/5 low sit start on right hand sidepull/undercling edge and left on low gaston or lower undercling.
4A ? stand start same as #4 then traverse up left to finish on #1 or #2?? or do the low sit?? or !? traverse the entire main face of The Booger either left to right from #1 into #7 or right to left from #7 sit into #1 to finish - "The Big Booger Traverse"!!??
5 "Snot" V1 stand V2 sit start with low left hand incut mini jug/edge.
6 "Stinging Nettle" V3 sit start just left of incut start hold of Booger Finger and go up left into #5
7 "Booger Finger" V3 low sit into 3 stand starts/finishes; either "Booger Direct" V1 (stand start) top out direct or V1/2 (stand start) traverse up right around corner on sloper lip to mid way mantle top out (V0 stand start off rock) or V2 (stand start) continue traversing higher up right past loose block to the tip top of boulder for the most fun, pumpy classic method and also the end of the Booger Traverse.
7A "Sugar Booger" V4 sit start same as Booger Finger then traverse sloper lip up left into Snot V0 stand or "Hairy Sugar Booger" V5 same start then continue traversing left up into Hairy Booger.
BOOGER BOULDER - BACKSIDE
8 "Nasal Cavity" V3 same sit as #9 then left past nose/horn or start on nose/horn V1/2 or low sit V3/4 start on left hand dihedral seam crimp and make move up right to horn - - or lower !?
9 "Nose Pincher" V1 stand start on upper right hand meat-wrap/nose pinch or "Nose Picker" V4 low. sit or V2/3 mid way start on sloper/crimper rail.
10 "Booger Eater" V6 low sit start #10 up left into #9 the test-piece of the boulder FA=CS
(new - not shown on topo - YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tzy7uSO_2Y)
or "Dirty Booger" V4/5 low sit start up right into #11 or V5/6 sit start.
11 "Olfactory" V0 stand start bulge slab face into the downclimb (#12) to top out.
12 VB easiest way up/down - downclimb.
13 "Nasophilia" V0 steep slab face left or "Mucus Membrane" V1 low sit right arete or V0 stand.
14 short steep sit downstream - left face direct or right arete?
15 stand start short bulge/face in creek next to #14?
THE HANGOVER BOULDER
1 "Rum Remedy" V3/4 sit or V4/5 low sit - AKA "Rumedy"
2 "Hangover Arete" V2/3 low sit up right arete.
3 V1/2 low sit bail right to jug.
THE CHATTERBOX
1 "Chatterbox" V2 stand face on left V2/3 sit.
2 "Hotbox" V2/3 stand V3 sit.
3 "Keep Quiet" V2 stand start V3 sit start steep slab face right of tree then up left into #1.
4 "Tree Spotter" V1 right side of face right of tree.
5 V0 right arete from low face start.
6 "Chatterbox Traverse" V3/4 L to R or best R to L into #1 to finish.
7 VB right arete/lip traverse up left to top.
SWEET TOOTH
1 "Jug Top" V1 sit.
2 "Sweet Tooth" aka "Pinball Wizard" V!? project!?
3 VB traverse from right to left and up.
TREE TOP
1 V0
2 V0/1
3 "Tree Top Traverse" V1/2 traverse usually from far r to l into #1.
4 "Tree Top Left" V0
5 "Tree Top Right" V0
TREE TOP - BACKSIDE
6 ? V1 traverse lip from far right to left end on #4.
7 ? V2/3 low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to left end on #4.
8 "3 Move Blunder" left V2 sit or right V1 sit.
9 V0 stand start V1 low start small boulder.
10 "Heavens Gate" V3/4!? sloper lip - or "The Black Mirror" V!? low start crimper project!?
(below Tree Top blocking creek)
11 ? start lip same as #10 traverse left and top out!?
LOST AND FOUND
1 "Lost And Found Arete" V1 stand V3 sit start.
2 "Apex" V2 stand start pocket or V4 mid start or "All Rise" V6 sit (direct face/no arete).
?
Highball arete in creek!?
Lip traverse or mantle?
Short bulge?
GYPSY BOULDER - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 V0/1 arete!?
2 "The Gypsy" V3 low sit on left arete or "Gypsy Direct" V3 direct undercling start - top out.
3 "Gypsy Traverse" V6 traverse from left to far right.
EGGOTRONIC - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 "Left Eggotronic" V3/4?
2 "Right Eggotronic" V3/4?
3 low mega hard sit project(s)!?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!?
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start?
3 ? low sit - bad landing - short but good!?
4 "Lost + Found" (on previous topo pic)
5 ?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDER - MAIN FACE
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!? (on previous topo pic)
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start? (on previous topo pic)
3 ? low sit - bad landing - short but good!? (on previous topo pic)
4 ? shorty?
5 ?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - LEFT MAIN CLIFF - 5 CRACKS
1 ? left crack corner - tight squeeze?
2 "Volcano Crack" V0 layback/corner crack to jug mantle - downclimb left.
3 "Volcano Direct" V0/1 stand start crack/arete or V? low start - downclimb left.
4 ? crack on right - downclimb left? ? crack to high dirty slab traverse up left to downclimb!?
5 ? traverse/prow!??
6 ?
7 ?
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - CENTER MAIN CLIFF
1 "Amphibian Crack" V0/1? crack traverse r to l to no-hands knee-bar.
2 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse!? (#5 on previous topo pic)
3 ? traverse/prow!?? (#6 on previous topo pic)
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - MAIN CLIFF
1 ? diagonal crack?
2 ? direct boulder problem?
3 ? left boulder problem?
4 ? crack to low traverse over water!?
5 ? crack to high traverse!?
6 ? crack route - rope!??
7 *incomplete route!??
MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - OVERVIEW
1 V1 short but good right rail start to lip mantle.
2 "Butt Dragger Traverse" l ro r into #1.
3 ? short left mantle?
4 ? short bulge face proj left or right!?
5 ? short arete/slab?
6 "Volcano Crack" V0 layback/corner to jug mantle - downclimb left. (5 CRACKS)
7 *Upper Falls Boulders / Lost + Found Boulder
SWARMED BOULDER
1 "Swarmed" V5/6 low sit then diagonal up right into V1/2 stand or V2/3 stand start right hand arete and left hand sloper lump then make a move up to pinch and top out!
2 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R slick slab face over bad/rocky landing.
3 V1/2 low start same as #1 then traverse left and up into #2.
4 "The Hive" V4/5 start with right hand low on sidepull and traverse left into #3.
5 ? bulge/face?
6 ? slab?
7 ?
8 "Soundwave Traverse" V1
9 "Dry Hump" V6 short sit start bulge mantle!
10 ?
LOWER-UPPER CREEK - MAIN BOULDERS
1 ? highball roof/face!?
2 ? slick slab under roof/face - left V? or direct/right!?
3 ? arete/prow?
4 ? short but good right start?
5 ? short left start?
6 "Swarmed" V5/6 (listed on previous boulder)
7 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R
8 high arete!??
9 V0 short bloc mantle or low start?
10 ?
11 "Beavis" V0 left boulder with right hand arete.
12 "Butthead" V1 sit or V2 right sit or "Smothers Brothers" V4 far left traverse finish.
13 V1 right face.
14 V!? short sit arete above Beavis and Butthead.
15 ?
SKUNKY FUNKY
1 "Skunky Funky" V4/5 low start arete/bulge or V3/4 stand start!
2 ? left start!?
3 ? right face over bad landing?
4 VB prow
5 V0 start VB prow then traverse right to VB on far right.
6 VB far right.
7 V0 traverse base of volcanic slab cliff - r to l - 40 feet long!
TOWER OF POWER
8 "Tower Of Power" V7/8? lower main face sit left into V0 crack/arete.
9 "Piano Man" V6/7? lower main face sit right into right arete #10!
10 "Tower Arete Traverse" V4 sit start right arete V2/3 stand start into #15.
11 "Zig Zag" 5.10/11? TR southeast arete from start on left side up right then back left.
12 "Rock Slide Traverse" V1 slab traverse up around upper arete into #19.
13 face!?
14 upper arete?
15 upper face?
16 VB easy way up/down.
17 lower upper arete?
18 lower upper arete traverse?
19 left side steep high face!?
20 ?
LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - THE WATERFALL BOULDERS
[~1/2 WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
{problems 1-3 are currently and possibly forever unclimbable due to fallen tree(s))
(Creek above waterfall)
2 "?" Main line from right up left to high jug point on steep roof prow!!??
3 ?
{4-6 shown in above topo pic}
4 "From Dusk Til Dawn" V2/3 left
5 center direct sit low sit start!?
6 "From Dawn Til Dusk" V2/3 right
{7-8 shown in above top pic}
7 "When Doves Die" V5 left arete!
8 right arete low sit!?
9 ?
10 ?
11 ?
12 ?
(Hillside above waterfall)
13 ? slab/face direct/main old line?
14 ? slab/face right?
15 traverse??
16 high arete left or right side!!??
17 right face arete?
18 left roof/arete on hill!?
19 face/arete?
20 ?
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is directly across from the parking and heads downhill to the boulders and the seasonal waterfall - total hike time = 3-5 minutes to The Canyon Trail Boulder on the left and about a total of 5-7 minutes to the main area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS on the left just off the main trail just past the intersection of a smaller trail on the left that switches back down into the creek - it is about 7-10 minutes total from the upper parking area downhill to the base of the waterfall - to reiterate; the main bouldering area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are above the waterfall between the trail and the creek and the creek boulder is just below the main area in, you guessed it - the creek]
SPANKY BOULDER (NEW!) - NO PHOTO
[off the left side of (Upper) Canyon Trail above C.T.Boulder]
1 "Spanky" !?
2 ?
CANYON TRAIL BOULDER
[alongside Upper Canyon Trail]
1 "Trailblazer" V2 stand V5 low sit up face or "Trailblazer Direct" V5 same low sit then up left.
2 "Traiblazer Arete" V1 stand V3 low sit.
3 "Short n Sweet" V0 stand V1 low sit.
4 "Kids Climb" VB+ stand V0 sit.
5 "Fishy Climb" VB sit or VB- stand.
6 "Witches Peak" V0 slab arete mini spire -VB up or down-climb backside.
7 "Canyon Trail Traverse" V6 r to l low into #1 sit or V4 l to r from #1 sit.
HIDE OUT BOULDER
[behind the main Canyon Trail Boulder - main face on backside]
1 "Bunchgrass" V1 sit start or V0 stand start arete.
2 "Leaf Liter" V0 stand - "Sweet Leaf" V3 sit center face or V0 stand or V1 sit center-right.
3 V0 sit.
4 "Hide" V3/4 diagonal seam/crack traverse - stay low - lip off - or use lip "Seek" V0/1.
5 V0 left of #1 low start.
[small front side of boulder facing Canyon Trail Boulder]
6 Four Ferns V6/7 low left sit right hand crimp (loose sharp plate, be careful)!
7 Lush Ferns V3 low right sit into same top out as #6.
*THE SUGARLOAF BOULDERS (Canyon Trail - Main Area)
SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 "Nice" V0- left face/arete.
2 "Not So Nice" V0 center face.
3 "Snips + Snails" V0+ arete/face.
SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - SOUTH FACE
4 "Sugar" V1 arete.
5 "Spice" V2r highball face with slanted hillside landing - spicy!
6 "Old Spice" V1r crack/face.
7 "Spice Crack" V0r crack.
8 "Sugar + Spice Traverse" V1/2 start on #7 and traverse left and up into #1 - or "Snail Trail" V0/1 start #3 traverse up left into #1 or "Sugar Trail" V1/2 start #7 traverse left into Snail Trail.
?BREADLOAF?
1 ?
2 ?
3 ?
4 ?
5 ?
??
1 ?
2 ?
SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 "Finga Tingla Bypass" V0 short but fun left corner/arete/face.
2 "Finga Tingla" V3r right of corner center of steep slab face.
3 "Smackdown" V1/2 stand - V3/4 low sit direct up high arete compression prow.
4 "Finga Tingla Traverse" V4 low traverse from #3 sit up left into #2 or V1/2 into #1.
SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - EAST FACE
5 "Sugar Smack Direct" V3/4 sit start on edges left of jug - jug is off.
6 "Sugar Smack" V1 stand V2 sit start on low square cut jug.
7 "Sugar Mama" V2 stand or V2/3 sit - face on far right, left arete is off.
8 "Sugar Daddy" V3 sit start #3 up right into #6.
LOVE + HATE BOULDER
1 "Love" V0 diagonal traverse up right on semi high arete/jug lip ~ great warmup!
2 "Love + Hate Face" V1/2 center face.
3 "Hate" V1/2 or V2/3 left arete - easier variation uses detached block for feet.
4 "Love + Hate Traverse" V4 right to left low into #3 - V3/4 left to right - block is off.
LOVE + HATE BOULDER - BACKSIDE (NEW!)
5 "Religion" V1 arete sit - V0 stand start.
6 "Politiks" V1/2 face sit - V0/1 stand start.
7 ?
LITTLE PYRAMID BOULDER
1 "Pyramid Power Traverse" V4 low sit on right traverse up left or V2/3 mid sit.
2 "Pyramid Power" V3 sit start or "The Pyramid" V0 stand start on jug.
3 "Pyramid Power Direct" V5 link up eliminate - sit #2 skip jug u left into sloper on #4 and top.
4 "Pyramid Face" V2 start on sloper up into arete - try not to dab the feet.
5 "Pyramid Arete" aka "Try-Angle Arete" V4 low sit on left hand sloper arete and low right hand arete feature V2/3 mid stand - V1 high stand.
6 V2/3 sit roof/slab on back left side.
7 V2/3 left or V3/4 right - short face in pit on back right side of #1.
LITTLE PYRAMID BOULDER - SOUTHEAST FACE
5 "Pyramid Arete" V4 low sit (see above)*
6 V2/3 sit bulge to slab.
BIG PYRMAID BOULDER
1 "Left Wing" V1 left arete/face start left or right.
2 "Illuminaughty" V3/4 stand start same as #3 then left over short crimpy bulge.
3 "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 original classic semi highball corner!
4 "The Alchemist" V4 sit start on low square cut jug on right and traverse left and up into #3!
5 "Hips Don't Lie" V6 same sit on low square cut jug direct up face right of #3 left of #6! V4 stand.
6 "Santa Rosacrucian" V4 sit start on low square cut jug go up to right arete/lip top out aka or "Rosacrucian Traverse" V5 start #3.
7 "Right Arete" V1R right arete or "Right Wing" V3/4 sit #4 up into right arete or start #3 "Right Wing Traverse" V5!?
8 "Knights Templar" V5 sit start #4 end #2.
9 "911" V3 stand start same as #2 and #3 then traverse left into #1.
10 "Illuminasty Traverse" V4/5(?) start #6 or V5/6(?) start #7 traverse left into #9?
CREEK BOULDER (BELOW MAIN AREA)
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit.
2 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit.
3 "Creek Face" V4/5/6 stand/sit ??
4 "Lockwood" V2/3 stand - V3/4 sit.
5 ? traverse !?
6 ?
ARROWHEAD BOULDER
1 "Flaming Arrow" V1 right arete sit V0 stand.
2 "Arrowhead" V3/4 center face low start.
3 "Arrowhead Arete" V2/3 left arete low start V0/1 stand.
4 "Arrowhead Traverse" V4/5 r to l - start on #3 finish #1.
ARROWHEAD BOULDERS
5 V2/3 traverse r to l into #6.
6 V1/2 face.
7 ?
______________________________________________________________________
THE SUNRISE ROCKS - Map:
SUNRISE ROCKS
Directions:
[Park at the Day Use Parking Lot inside the pay area at the top of Adobe Canyon Rd near the campground or, better yet, at the end of the road near the stables and observatory and walk to Meadow Trail and follow it to the first right turn and just before the turn take a left into the creek and try to follow feint deer trails uphill for about 5 more minutes to the rocks located between the creeks on the hill. Sunrise has the highest concentration of boulder problems and top ropes in the park!]
Sunrise Rocks - summitorplummet.blogspot.com
Sunrise Rocks Climbing
ADOBE CANYON BOULDER
{{??SECRET/PRIVATE??}}
3 main lines with ~10 link up variations and traverses V0-V8
The hardest problem in the Sugarloaf/Adobe Cyn area is "Pipedream Sit" V8 FA: GZ
Adobe Canyon Boulder - YOUTUBE
Sugarloaf Ridge Park "The Loaf" Bouldering - YOUTUBE Playlist
Enjoy!! :)
