summit or plummet

Mt Tam Bouldering - Fall/Winter 2011/2012

2011-12-27T21:00:00.000-08:00

Mt Tam Bouldering - Fall 2011 YOUTUBE

Mt Tam Bouldering - Winter 2011 YOUTUBE

Mt Tam Bouldering - Winter 2011/2012 YOUTUBE

SAVE SUGARLOAF RIDGE STATE PARK!!

2011-12-12T13:40:00.000-08:00

Save State Parks .org

video/slideshow of the park;

Save Sugarloaf Ridge State Park (short version) YOUTUBE

Save Sugarloaf Ridge State Park (long version) YOUTUBE

video of bouldering in the park this Fall 2011;
Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering - Fall 2011 YOUTUBE

The Untamed Rocks

2011-11-12T11:29:00.000-08:00

The un-appreciated Untamed Rocks just north of Squaw Rock and South of Hopland off US101 in wild, uncharted, Mendocino County. About 5 climbs so far from 5.10-5.12 with more potential/projects! Most routes stay dry in the rain due to the huge blank overhanging headwalls (thus the name "Untamed") making it like an outdoor gym! Except this gym is natural and free :)

"The Shrew" aka "Shit Face" 5.10d/5.11a!? - slabby/vertical roadside sport climbing fun! 4 bolts + 2 bolt rap ring anchor.

Aron Quiter does "The Shrew" crux!

Aron at the "shit face" spot.

Aron on the final crux of "The Shrew".

Aron at "The Shrew" anchors.

Sarah works "The Shrew" on TR.

Aron Quiter cleans a new arete line!

Ukiah Bouldering

2011-11-07T22:45:00.000-08:00

Chrisjitsu "Gap Crack" 5.9TR (V0R)

Marcos Nunez "Fuck You" V4R (5.12TR) Flash!

"Fuck You Traverse" V6 FA!

Sean Brady "Suspended Animation" V6 FA!

"Cherty Mind" V5 FA!

Aron Quiter "Cherty Mind" V3 stand 3rd ascent!

Katie Rose "Cherty Mind"

Ukiah Bouldering 2011 - YOUTUBE

Clark Canyon Bouldering

2011-09-07T17:10:00.001-07:00

The trailhead and the Parking Lot Boulder

Summit Fever V8/9? FA!

Bump n Grind V8/9? FA!

CLARK CANYON BOULDERING
The Parking Lot Boulder (a short bushwhack off the crag trail)
*backside - left to right:
1 Wilbur's Problem V6/7 stand V7 sit - rails to seam - mega classic!
2 Summit Fever V8? stand start in sinker right hand two finger pocket or V8/9? sit start right hand small pocket and left hand edge and boulder up left into #1!
3 !? sit start right of #2 on same pocket but with left hand and angle up left into #2!?
4 !? do same sit as #3 then angle up right into or around #5!?
5 right hand arete!? or left hand arete/high slab face!??

*frontside(s) - left to right:
6 left arete(s)!?
7 center face!?
8 right side center face!?
9 right side traverse?
10 right side arete(s)!?

Parking Lot Boulders (around Parking Lot area)
11 face?
12 arete?
13 traverse?
14 !?
15 arete/face!?

Trailside Boulder (along the main trail about halfway to the crags)
*frontside - left to right:
16 Trailside Slab V3/4 the start is the crux
17 Bump n Grind V8? stand V8/9? sit start in pocket
18 Bahl Hornin V4 sit V2 direct left stand start or V1 right stand start on jug lip same as #19
19 Bahlers Traverse V5 sit start #18 then traverse right along the lip into #20 or V2 stand start jug lip
20 VB up/down-climb

Clark Canyon Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Spirits Wall - Mt Tam

2011-09-06T17:07:00.001-07:00

Eliot Carlsen does the first ascent of
the class-sick "High Spirits" V6/7R!

Ken Ariza found this awesome boulder and did most of the first ascents on it but this line was unsent until yesterday September 5 2011 when Eliot Carlsen snagged the first ascent - great job Kenny and Eliot!!

Spirits Wall has about 15 problems (V1-V7) and potential for more!?

Spirits Wall - left to right:
1 VB slab left or center
2 V0 corner crack
3 "Absinthe Makes The Heart Grow Fonder" V3/4R left arete FA=KA
4 "Beam Me Up" V5R straight up slab between #3 and #5 FA=KA
5 "Two Buck Chuck" V5/6R sit FA=KA
6 "High Spirits" V6/7R steep, sort of highball, center face!! FA=EC or V7!? Low stand!?
7 "Cocktail Traverse" V5 stand V5/6 low stand!? FA=CS
8 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #6!?
9 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #7!?
10 "Groundhog" V4/5 sit (V1 stand on jug rail) - step off from slab onto rock or top out!? FA=KA
11 "!?" sit start #10 then traverse up left into #6!?
12 "!?" VB/0 crack and/or face!?
13 !?

(small boulder below #3)
14 Stupid Face V0 sit mini face then top out straight up
15 Stupor Traverse V1 sit then traverse right and up along low lip

Spirits Wall is below the radio towers on the top of the south/east side of the small peak just to the west of the East Peak of Mt Tam just downhill from the small green building that is next to the white building across/southwest from the big green dome :)

Cocktail Traverse V5/6 FA! - YOUTUBE

Shasta Bouldering

2011-08-27T13:54:00.000-07:00

Shasta Bouldering - August 2011

Shasta Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Chucky Beezy is off the heezy!!

2011-08-16T13:15:00.000-07:00

dpmclimbing.com/charlie-barrett-stash-teaser

Veeder Boulders

2011-08-11T13:34:00.000-07:00

Mt Veeder Boulders - Napa County
{secret so no directions - sorry :( send me an email if you'd like to come with us sometime tho :) .!?}

Sean Brady (V4 FA variation!)

Aron Quiter "The Crank" (V4) sit

Kevin Kinnison (#3 V2) sit

Sean Brady (#13 V1)

Sean Brady (#20 V0) warm up traverse FA!

Kevin Kinnison "Wicked" V3 stand!

"The Damned" V6 2nd Ascent!

Veeder Rock (above road - right to left)
{Main Rock}
1 5.7/8/9? top rope face (bolts on top?) or 5.10/11 low start? - 30ft
2 V0/1 stand start on hillside traverse far right to jug or up and right into huge mossy hole
3 V1/2 stand start on jug rail then do a few fun moves up to the mossy jug and drop off or V2 sit or V2 traverse right into #2 or V2/3 sit or (right/direct eliminate variation - no jug rail) V4 low sit into big undercling match then up right past crux sidepulls
4 V4 stand start on small undercling right hand and sidepull left and go up into #5 or V4/5 into #3 or V5 into #3 traverse
5 "The Crank" V4 sit or V1 stand - lock your feet on the cranks like your pedaling a bike or "Left Crank" V3/4 left sit with right hand on upper hold and left on small crimp or V4/5 into #3 or "The Cranks Traverse" V5 do the sit start into #3 traverse
6 "Tilted" V5/6 stand start on tiny tilted right hand crimp and tinier left hand pocket crimp and power up left into #7 or V!? traverse left into #8
7 "Faded" V2 stand start and go up right into same jug finish as #5 or V3 left stand start or "Vulcan Death Grip" V5 low stand start on left hand crimp and far out right hand pocket crimp on #6
8 "Lip Buster" V2 stand or V2/3 low stand or V!? low sit? far left side of wall (top out often dirty)
9 V!? traverse from #8 right and up into #7 or V!?? into #2 for the complete traverse!!??
10 top rope face??

Creek Boulder (right to left)
11 V1 sit VB stand - short bulge
12 V1 sit V0 stand - left hand arete
13 V1 sit V0 stand - face left of arete
14 ?V2/3 - sloper start?
15 V3 - traverse sit start or V2/3 stand

Upper Creek Boulder
16 V1 stand or V2 sit

Veeder Cave (below road - right to left)
17 Wicked V6 sit or V3 stand or V4 low stand matched on underclings - center/right side of cave from sit in mini hueco or V6/7 low sit!
18 The Damned V6 or V4 stand - left variation to Wicked with holds on left arete/face from sit in same mini hueco as Wicked or V6/7!? low sit!?
19 V7!?? far right side of cave direct up steep crimpy face with no left arete eliminate variation!?
20 "Sean's warm up traverse"? V0 - traverse usually done right to left on backside of rock next to trail

The Damned (V6 2nd Ascent!?) YOUTUBE

Wicked (V6 sit FA!) YOUTUBE

Outdoor GEAR LAB

2011-07-19T21:39:00.000-07:00

Outdoor GEAR LAB - The Consumer Reports of the outdoor industry!

Climbing and Bouldering in Northern California

2011-06-07T10:56:00.000-07:00

I've been a proud Northern California native since I was born and will be until I die. I started climbing and bouldering on the rocks around my home in Santa Rosa where I grew up and still live and climb today. In my 20 years of climbing I've found and developed many new areas and established many first ascents of sport climbs, traditional climbs and boulder problems all over Northern California. I have also written 6 climbing/bouldering guidebooks including my now out of print Wine County Rocks (self published) and Bay Area, Northern California and Tuolumne Bouldering as well as Bay Area Top Ropes by SuperTopo and with Tom Slater, I co-authored the bible to Nor Cal climbing, California Roadtrip, A Climbers Guide, Northern California by Maximus Press. The link below will take you to my SUPERTOPO Photo Gallery that has images from each of my SuperTopo guidebooks as well as a few other random images from all around Northern California - I hope you enjoy! :)

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/pro_photos.php?gid=31

Urban Climber - Classic Cali article

2011-05-25T22:21:00.000-07:00

In this months (issue #48 May 2011) edition of Urban Climber Magazine, I contributed some info to a short article about California. Not to take anything away from that original and to the point article I would just like to add a bit more of my own info to make it the best article it could be. I want to say this is my first article published in a magazine and it's kind of cool! I have had photos published in Urban Climber before but never anything written. I am excited to do more! Thanks CVL!!

I want to make a few things clear that were either unclear or left out for some reason - basicly I'm going to point out and even rewrite parts of the article to make it better or at least more clear/detailed in my opinion - here it is:

here is how I would have wrote the first paragraph:
CALIFORNIA, the third largest state in the nation, is home to a huge collection of climbing areas. Yosemite, the mecca for western climbing is only part of what California has to offer. The east side of the Sierra, the Pacific Coast and even a few unique inland areas, some of which are even right near the highly populated Bay Area have many high quality rocks that are not to be missed. All year in Cali can be all good with old school classics, virgin new routes and in springtime crispy granite and massive waterfalls in the heat of summer, sandy beaches with bouldering on exotic rocks. Fall and Winter offer up Bishop bouldering and the multitude of classics in every style at Joshua Tree in the high desert of Southern California.

here are more of my additions;
The Sierras contain a huge collection of alpine routes and are also surrounded by many, excellent sport and bouldering areas like Jailhouse Rock and the awesome Columbia limestone boulders near Sonora. Other incredible sport and trad climbs are to be found at The Needles and Shuteye Ridge on the western slopes to the world class Buttermilk Boulders, the Volcanic Tablelands and Owens River Gorge on the east side. To the north are the unique Humboldt County area limestone crags and beach rocks; and to the west is the Bay Area's mix of sport climbing, bouldering and top roping like the famous Mickey's Beach as well as the historic test-pieces and outdoor gym-like variations at the Berkeley area crags and boulders. Last but not least is the high quality, Fontainbleau-esque sandstone playground, Castle Rock near the Silicon Valley of San Jose.

For the Bay Area I would have also mentioned the new 5.14a Beach Arete (without drilled pocket) first done by Kevin Jorgeson, then by Ethan Pringle and then by Charlie Barrett. I also would have mentioned Eco Terrorist (V10) at Castle Rock State Park, the old school classic Nat's Traverse (V8) at Mortar Rock, Berkeley and Pelican Arete (V0R) at the Sunset Boulders in Goat Rock Park.

For Yosemite I would have also mentioned Nutcracker (5.8/9) and Midnight Lightning (V8).

For Bishop I would have also mentioned Strength In Numbers (V5) at the Sads and Essential Peabody (V0R) at the Buttermilks.

For the Inside Scoop I would have mentioned;
Delicious foods from all over the world and great Micro Breweries. Mt Tam not Marin Headlands maybe for the best place to mountain bike since it was the birthplace of mountain biking. I also would have mentioned that Hwy 101 takes you to the Wine Country not Hwy 1 - but Hwy 1 will take you to the scenic North Coast.

Mainly, I'm very stoked to have any part of any article published in any magazine - I just want to make it the best it could be here on my blog.

:)

Judge Dredd

2011-05-08T19:50:00.000-07:00

First top rope ascent of Judge Dredd
- 1994/5ish!?

Judge Dredd (5.13b) gets its 7th? or 8th? confirmed ascent (that I've heard of anyway) in about 14 years since I did first ascent in 1997ish? - great job Ben Polanco!!

Link to an Anthony Lapomardo PIC of Ben Polanco on Judge Dredd:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=1898362091920&set=a.1065356747307.12114.1027660192&type=1&theater

and an Anthony Lapomardo VID of Ben Polanco on Judge Dredd at Dead Point Magazine.com:
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/climber-profile-ben-polanco

More radical new/old topo secret/priv prop Sonoma County Bouldering!

2011-05-08T13:18:00.000-07:00

The Mecca

Mecca Cave

Mecca

Gully Rock

Stoned Warrior V6 sit FA! Warrior Rock
Photo: Richard Newton

Travis Lombardo works the Rock Warrior Project
Warrior Rock

Eric "Wedge" Owen - Cricket Arete V3 sit
Cricket Rock

P F Traverse V6 FA! P F Rock
Photo: Sean Brady

Sean Brady - P F Traverse
P F Rock

Sean Brady - Rattlesnake Rock Traverse V3/4/5!?
Rattlesnake Rock

*A mix of possibly legit, quick hit, roadside attractions :) and top secret/priv prop rocks with NO ACCESS :( / :)

? - NORTH
First Falls
1-20 = VB-V4/5!?

Mecca {{CLOSED / PRIV PROP / NO ACCESS}}
21-100 = VB-V11!?

Lower Creek Boulders?
101-125 = V!??

Upper Creek Boulders?
126-150 = V!??

Hillside Rock?
151-155 = 5.!?-V!?

Warrior Boulders (Warrior Rock)
156 Pull Out Crack V0
157 Bumper Arete V1 stand V3 sit
158 Pick Your Poison Wall (backside of Warrior Rock)
159 Poison Arete Vo stand V1 sit - right arete
160 Poison Traverse V3 sit start #159 traverse left into #162
161 Poison Face V0 stand V1 sit - center face
162 Wired V1/2 stand V2/3 low start
163 Wired Traverse V3 low start #162 - traverse up right into #159
164 Wired Arete? TR?
165 Stoned Warrior Traverse V4 low
166 Warrior Syndrome V5/6 stand or Stoned Warrior V6 sit
167 Stoned Warrior Traverse V6 traverse high (into and out of Warrior Syndrome)
168 Rock Warrior Project V7/8!? R? hard highball face!!
169 tall steep face??
170 crack/corner/arete??

Creekpile Rocks
171 Creekpile Traverse V1/2 left to right step off or into V3/4 = V4/5!?
172 Creekpile V3/4 sit
173 Creekpile Crack - TR? (big rock below other side of road)
174 ??
175 ??

? - SOUTH
Rattlesnake Rock
176 Snakehead V!?
177 !??
178 Rattlesnake Traverse V3/4 (harder now since hold broke!?)
179 Rattlesnake Arete V!? TR or highball left arete
180 Rattlesnake Face V!? TR or highball center face
181 Amagaba? V3 stand V4 sit ?? TR or highball right arete
182 Rattlesnake Crack V0 TR or highball crack right of arete
183 V1? face
184 Snake Pit V3 sit or V1 stand - left side of short face on far right
185 V0 stand or V1 sit - far right side of main wall

Gully Rock?
186 ??
187 ??

The Klump
188 The Klump V1 sit left arete, V3 sit center face, V3 sit right

P F
P F Rock
189 P F Slab VB-V0 R
190 P F Crack V0 R
191 The P F Traverse (separate starts: Slab Traverse V0 (finish), Gold Bulge V1/2, Slab Crux V2/3, P F Traverse V4/5 midway start or V6!? start to finish.
192 ??

Cricket Rock
193 Cricket Highball!? left side of main face!?
194 Cricket Corner V1/2
195 Cricket Arete V2/3 (or Jiminy Cricket Dyno V3/4/5!?)
196 Cricket Crack V0
197 Cricket Mantle (aka Attack Mantle) V2
198 Cricket Traverse V3/4 into Cricket Mantle finish or V2/3 main face
199 Cricket Crack Traverse V3 into Cricket Crack finish
200 Cricket Face - TR?

Stoned Warrior V6 sit FA! - YOUTUBE

Mecca Cave (secret) - YOUTUBE

Secrets

2011-04-10T11:57:00.001-07:00

Tafoni Sunset

Not So Secrets

Holly Anne VB FA!

Mike Whipple - Sun Ray V2.

Mike Whipple - Sun Ray V2.

Chris Summit - Sabertooth V7 FA!

Travis Lombardo - DWS Cave V1/2!

{{Secrets will stay a secret - Directions are word of mouth only}}

I've never before published info about rock climbing/bouldering at Secrets for 3 reasons - 1 it is called Secrets, 2 there is plenty of other public rocks in the area, 3 Tafoni is fragile. Hopefully this blog post will not increase the popularity of the area too much. This blog doesn't get a lot of traffic other than mostly friends and locals who probably already know about it anyways.

Due to a recent increase in local popularity and the need to preserve the bouldering history before it is blown away in the sands of time I have created this ongoing collection of problems with names, ratings and first ascent info for some of the mega classics at this incredible sandstone playground - please contribute any knowledge you have of names/ratings/history by emailing me at; summitorplummet@hotmail.com

(North to South)

North Cove/North Point
1 V0/1?
2 V3/4?
3 V0/1 traverse?
4 The Point Traverse V7 FA=CS
5 ? V3/4/5R? FA=RT/KJ?

Hilltop Rock
6 ? V3/4 low start or V0 stand start in hueco? northeast corner FA=CS
7 ? V8R/5.13 TR highball cave! FA=KJ
8 Sabertooth V2 stand V4 mid V7 sit FA=CS (V9 low sit FA=KJ)
9 Sun Ray V2 stand or Bottle Rocket V4 sit FA=CS
10 Pachoong V8? mid sit #8 trav left into #12 -
or Feeding Frenzy V7 sit #9 trav left into #12 FA=CS
11 Romancing the Stone V6? sit #12 trav right into #9 FA=CS
12 Cherry Bomb V3 stand V4 sit FA=CS
13 ?
14 Orange Cave V7 drop off or V9 into #15 sit FA=CS
15 Orange Crack V0 or V3 sit FA=CS

Secrets Slab
16 Sandpaper? V1R FA=CS?
17 V0/1
18 V0/1
19 VB/0 traverse
20 ?

The Valley
21 V0?
22 V1?
23 V2?
24 V3?
25 V4/5?
26 V0/1?
27 V1/2?
28
29
30

Fish Lips Boulder
31 Fish Lips V2 sit FA=CS
32 Fish Stick V4/5 stand FA=KA/CB?
33 Slap Fight V6/7 sit FA=CS
34 Slap Stick V7/8 sit #33 into #32 FA=CS
35 Thumb Thing V6/7 sit FA=CS
36 ?
37 ?
38 V0/1?
39 V1/2?
40 V2/3?

?
41 Spider Crab V5? FA=CS
42 Nautilus V4/5? FA=CS
43 ? V5/6? FA=CB
44 ?
45 ?

The Gully
46 V0/1?
47 V1/2?
48 V2/3?
49 V3/4?
50 V4/5?
51 V5/6?
52 ?
53 ?
54 ?
55 ?

Fishing Rock
56 DWS #!? FA=RT??
57 DWS#1 V0 down/up in/out of DWS Cave FA=MN
58 DWS Cave V1/2! FA=MN
59 DWS Cave Direct V2/3! FA=MN
60 !?

?
61 ?
62 ?
63 ?
64 ?
65 ?

Big Wave Boulder
66 Big Wave Arete V1/2 right arete FA = ?
67 Big Wave Dave V3 center hueco face FA=RE
68 Big Wave Traverse V5 left to right -
or V6 sit #66 trav right to left into #69 FA=CS
69 Big Wave Face V4 left face FA=CS
70 Death in Paradise V3 FA=CB - Paradise in Death V3R FA=CS

Starfish Rocks?
71 The Dolphin Face? V3R FA=RE
72 Starfish Traverse V4 mega classic! FA=CS
73 Starfish V1
74 ?
75 ?
76 V2/3 arete?
77 ?
78 ?
79 Stone Shroom V3 FA=CS
80 ?

Triceratops
81 Triceratops V4 sit FA=RT
82 V2/3 pull around right?
83 ?
84 ?
85 V1/2R face/arete

Dolphin Quest
86 Dolphin Quest V1/2 sit FA=CS
87 Flipper V4/5 sit FA=RE
88 V0?
89 ?
90 ?

?
91 ?V0?
92 ?Blockhead?
93 ?Blockhead Traverse?
94 ?
95 ?

?
96 V0/1?
97 ? V2/3 lip traverse FA=CS
98 ? V4/5 mini pocket roof/lip FA=CS
99 ? V3 crack FA=RE
100 ? V6/7 face left of crack FA=TL?

Sabertooth V4 stand FA! - YOUTUBE

The Alcove

2011-03-22T13:12:00.000-07:00

The Alcove - right

The Alcove - left

The Alcove
bouldering/buildering = bou-il-dering!?
pull some concrete!!

The Alcove - right
1 VB/0
2 Mini Dyno V0
3 Dual Cracks V0/1
4 Gastoned V2 stand V2/3 sit?
5 Right Corner V0/1 right corner crack/face
6 March Means Rain V1/2 face left of corner (corner crack is off).
7 Alcove Crack V0 stand V0/1 sit - instant classic!
8 Alcove Face V1 stand V1/2 sit - direct face left of classic crack (crack is off).

The Alcove - left
9 Corny Corner V1/2 left corner crack/face
10 Zendetta V4/5 stand V5 sit - direct right V start to Z crack!
11 Zen Crack V2 stand V2/3 sit - instant classic Z crack!
12 Inflatable Sheep V3/4 stand V4 sit? left variation to z crack
13 White Rail V0/1 stand V1 sit
14 The Funnel V0 stand or V1 start #13 - short diagonal cracks
15 The Alcove Traverse V4/5 start on right side and traverse left into #14 to finish - or left to right into #1 or #2 to finish. The concrete in the two corners is on for feet making nice and needed no hands rests - no concrete = V5

Zen Crack V2/3 sit + Zendetta V4/5 stand - YOUTUBE

Alcove Traverse V4/5 - YOUTUBE

TOP 25 BEST TOP SECRET/PRIV PROP NORTH BAY BOULDER PROBLEMS and ROCK CLIMBS

2011-03-15T17:12:00.000-07:00

{{If you want to go to one of these "secret/private" areas just ask me and I will either take you or hook you up with someone else that can take you or help inform you of the current state of access}}

*TOP 25 BEST TOP SECRET/PRIV PROP NORTH BAY BOULDER PROBLEMS
(all grade levels - no particular order)

Slither V7 CS Caz
Stigmata V12/13 (aka Schist Project) KJ Caz
Close Encounters V5 RE Caz
Low End Theory V10 CB Caz
Dragon Moon V4 stand V8 sit CS Caz
Spider Man V4 stand V6 sit CS Caz
Kick Me When Im Down V10 MN or V10/11 all holds RE Caz
Scary V4 R stand V5 sit CS Caz
Camel Toe V5 stand RE V8 sit CB Caz
Hijacked V7 sit RE + Hold Up V4 stand CS Caz
Sabretooth V4 stand V7 sit CS V9 low sit KJ Secrets
Starfish Traverse V3/4 RE + CS Secrets
Sweet Crack V0 R CS Sweet Boulders
KGB V4 stand V5 sit CS Killer Green Cave
Killer Green Traverse V3 (warm up), V5-V8 CS Killer Green Cave
Mammoth Cave V4 (warm up) KA Mammoth Cave
The Savage V7/8 KA Mammoth Cave
Tribal Rights V7/8 KA Mammoth Cave
The Oracle V7/8 KA Mammoth Cave
Oracle Savage V7/8 CB Mammoth Cave
Savage Oracle V7/8 CS Mammoth Cave
The Sorcerer V7/8 CS Mammoth Cave
Sonoma Creek Traverse V8 KA Sonoma Creek
Upper Sonoma Creek Traverse V4 KA Sonoma Creek
? V11 GT Mecca

*TOP 10 BEST TOP SECRET/PRIV PROP NORTH BAY ROCK CLIMBS
(all grade levels - no particular order)

Yoda 5.12c/d RE or 5.13b/c RT Caz
? 5.9 crack CS Caz
? 5.9 sport CS Caz
? 5.10 sport RE+CS Caz
Busted 5.9/10? 2 pitch (incomplete) CS+RE Caz
Dry Line 5.12d TR CB lead CS Schoolhouse
School of Rock 5.12c CS Schoolhouse
Solar Catastrophe 5.12b RT Schoolhouse
Straight Jacket 5.10 TR CS Insane Asylum
Sanctified 5.9 TR CS Sanctuary

The Cobblestone

2011-03-14T18:04:00.000-07:00

The Cobblestone

1 The Cobblestone VB (easy way up/down).

2 Cobblestone Direct V1 stand or V2 sit start.

3 Cobblestone Mantle V1 stand start.

4 Cobblestone Mantle - Sit V2 sit start.

5 Cobblestone Mantle - Low Sit V2/3 low right sit start matched on layback.

6 Cobblestone Mantle - Direct V2 (or V3 sit or V3/4 low sit).

7 Cobble Wobble Traverse V5/6 sit start (sit #2 then traverse right into #8).

8 Cobble Wobble V4/5 stand start or Layback Action V5 sit #5 or V4/5? start #9 .

9 Cobblestone Slab V0 stand start.

10 Cobblestone Traverse V5 from #9 left into #3 (V4 from #8 stand) or V6 into #1 (V5 from #8 stand) or V6/7 do a complete 360!? {usually done clockwise/from right to left}

11 start #1 traverse right into #7 (V7!?)

12 start #1 traverse far right into #9 (V7!?)

Finishing the Cobble Wobble Traverse V5/6 fa!?
Photo: Wedge

Cobblestone Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Adobe Canyon Boulder

2011-03-06T19:38:00.000-08:00

1 The Ramp V2 low left start
2 Launch Ramp V4 sit start
3 Pipedream V1 stand V5/6 low stand V!? sit
4 low sit project!?
5 Pipedream Traverse V4 stand - V6? low stand?
6 Rock Snake V2/3 stand or Roccupy V5/6 low stand
7 Rock Snake Direct V0
8 ACB Traverse V5/6
9 V0R chossy bulge
10 "?" V0 far right face

Adobe Canyon Boulder - YOUTUBE

LIMESTONED

2011-02-17T18:58:00.000-08:00

LIMESTONED - a video/slideshow of bouldering in Columbia California.

2 versions - same movie;

soundtrack - 311 (rock):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJg0ie1S19A

soundtrack - Vivaldi (classical):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUpZZFMe-nQ

Nor Cal local; KevinJorgeson.com

2011-02-15T14:17:00.000-08:00

Check out the bad ass local Nor Cal climber Kevin Jorgeson at;
kevinjorgeson.com

Carlo Traversi.com/Northern California

2011-02-15T13:27:00.000-08:00

Check out Nor Cal getting some props from the once local now world wide bad ass boulderer Carlo Traversi;
carlotraversi.com/2010/northern-california

and check out Nor Cal/Sonoma County on his "top 10 climbing areas" ;
http://carlotraversi.com/my-top-10/climbing-areas/

and a Nor Cal/North Coast classic on his "top 10 boulder problems" ;
http://carlotraversi.com/my-top-10/boulder-problems/

Go Carlo!!

Indian Rock Boulders CRSP

2011-02-06T20:27:00.000-08:00

Indian Rock Boulders - Castle Rock 2011

Indian Bouldering Classics;

Indian Crack Boulders:
Indian Crack V0, Indian Face V1, Indian Traverse V5, Inch and 1/4 Crack V1, Static Reach V8 sit or V9 low sit or V10 low low sit, The Clam V4 up or V9 traverse

Indian Boulders:
Hash Rock VB-V2, The Classic V3 or V4 sit, Sharma Arete V9, Santa Cruz Dude Dyno V4, The Backscratcher V3, Right Hand Indian Man V7, Asian Invasion V7

Nature Nazi Boulders:
Nature Nazi Arete V7 or V8 sit, Nature Nazi Traverse V4 or V5/6 low sit, Caunt Power Pull V4/5

Lost Keys:
Lost Keys V4 up or V6 traverse

Blowing Bubbles 5.10a solo!

Andrew - V1 DYNO!

Mike Donovan - Backscratcher V3
(3rd or 4th Ascent!?)

Sean Brady - Backscratcher V3
(4th or 5th Ascent!? - 1st flash!?)

Ryan - Right Hand Indian Man V7

Sean Brady - The Classic V3

For more info and directions get the Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area by Bruce Morris and/or my Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO.

The Backscratcher V3

2011-01-31T22:41:00.001-08:00

Teddy on The Backscratcher Traverse
(a new V3 fa below Indian Rocks East face - CRSP)

Benny Kong does The Backscratcher (V3 - second ascent)! VID

Dead Oak Boulders

2011-01-13T09:54:00.001-08:00

Newly developed area in Mendo!
(priv prop so no directions:(

T-dog cleaning the top out of a new line.

TL - Cow Pattie V2 fa.

TL on Oaksterdam V6.

TL - Sudden Oak Death V2r fa!

TL - California Squeeze V2/3 fa!

CS - The Doghouse Traverse V6/7 fa variation.

Live Oak Traverse V7!?

Squaw Rock

1 V? arete/slab left
2 Sunny Slab V0*** slab center
3 V0** slab right
4 V0* slab traverse
5 V? boulder left
6 V? boulder center
7 V? boulder right
8 Lunatip V2/3** sit start on right then traverse left onto slab
9 V? crack? - traverse + up? /stand?
10 V!? steep project - sit or stand!? (needs cleaning)
11 V0/1* right hand arete over rocky crevice or into #12 top out V1**
12 V1* sit start face left of arete on small boulder in crevice
13 V1* low stand start up right into top out over fallen tree
14 Dead Oak Traverse V4** left to right into #13 to finish
15 Dead Oak Face V1*** stand start or V3*** sit #16 or V? direct sit
16 Oaksterdam V5*** stand start direct face left of #15 - V6*** sit
17 V? far left side of Dead Oak Wall over bad landing
18 V? short bulge over fallen tree
19 V? traverse short bulge over fallen tree
20 Sudden Oak Death V2r*** high right hand arete above fallen tree
21 Fern Crack V? fern filled thin crack up left to high arete
22 California Cheez V1/2*** right variation hold into #23 top out
23 California Squeez V2/3*** sit short meatwrap prow/bulge direct
24 Cow Pattie V2** sit/stand high face with plate holds and moss
25 Live Oak Traverse V7? start right of #22 and traverse left past it into the final crux section - or just do the final crux section from the crack for the Doghouse Traverse V6/7**
26 V? crack in center of Live Oak Wall (mossy)
27 V? face on left side of Live Oak Wall (mossy)
28 V? arete on left side of Live Oak Wall (mossy)
29 ?
30 ?

California Squeeze V2/3 fa - YOUTUBE

"Ultimate Trogdor" V8

2011-01-06T11:15:00.000-08:00

"Ultimate Trogdor" V8 is the mega classic low arete sit start to the old classic "Trogdor" (V5) - Columbia Limestone!
1-4-11

"Ultimate Trogdor" V8 - YOUTUBE

"Static Reach" - low sit start V10/11!? CRSP

2011-01-02T14:09:00.000-08:00

"Reach Around" V10/11!? fa?? - the low sit start to "Static Reach" at Indian Rock, CRSP

"Reach Around" V10/11 fa!? YOUTUBE

Cliff House Cave

2010-11-20T14:10:00.000-08:00

New problems in the rain in the Cliff House Cave!

Cliff House Cave Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Happy Ending - YOUTUBE

Cliff is in the House!

2010-10-29T16:07:00.000-07:00

Cliff House Boulders!!

Seal Rocks Sunset

Benny Kong repeats Redonkulous (V3) on the north
side of the Cliff House at the Sutro Boulders

Benny warming up on the high, classic
(V0) warm up crack

Benny on his classic Flesh Wound
(V5 fa!?)

Benny on Flesh Wound crux

Aron Quiter does the center (V0) high
face/crack

Aron on Fingerbanged (V3 start)

Ari Oppenheimer does Archeology (V0)

Ari on Fingerbanged

Ari does Shipwreck (V2 fa!? direct variation)

Finger Wound aka Like A V6 (fa!?)

Bellyacher / Wounded Knee Traverse

Cliff House Boulders

2010-10-29T11:53:00.000-07:00

The Cliff House at Ocean Beach in San Francisco has some great bouldering along the beach at the base of the actual namesake cliff faces on the north end of Ocean Beach. The Sutro Boulders are around the other side below the Cliff House and near the Sutro Baths. The rock is a common Northern California, Pacific Coast greenstone/sandstone with cracks, edges and a few pockets and slopers. The top outs are often sandy/dirty and may even have some broken glass and bushes to contend with but you're usually over a nice sandy landing albeit a bit highball even when the sand is in. The sand is at its highest level in the summer/fall season. When the sand is low in winter/spring all the problems are R or even can be R/X rated with pools of water, hard packed sand and even debris often filling the landing zones.

San Francisco local Benny Kong and his crew discovered these problems and although some if not most of them are re-discoveries a lot are probably not. Benny and his crew are to credit for the complete/final development of what is in my opinion the best place to boulder in Frisco. It is a close tie with Glen Canyon but who can beat hanging out at the beach!?

The classic finger crack now nicknamed "Fingerbanged" (V2/3/4) was most recently first done just a couple years ago by Benny's friend (Kevin ?) and I have heard of a few friends that have done it as well before that but possibly never did the low low starts and they never nicknamed it. There have probably been many more ascents of the main crack since it is in Frisco but for now its got a nickname. Possibly all of these problems have been climbed for years by random locals but most info is unknown at this time - if you know anything about the history of climbing at the Cliff House like who installed the old bolt on top of the roof/face/crack please inform either Benny or I .

..and enjoy some fine beach bouldering in a crazy touristy yet mega chill spot!!

EDIT (11-7-10) - After checking out the old Jensen Bay Area Guide I'm thinking that the new school steep finger crack nicknamed "Fingerbanged" could be "The Old Man And The Sea" (5.12a) top rope - now a classic highball V2/3/4!!??

CLIFF HOUSE BOULDERS - VIDEOS:

A Climbing Porn Short - Cliff House Crag

A Climbing Porn Short - High Fructose Corn Syrup

A Climbing Porn Short - Punk Ass Decepticon

A Climbing Porn Short - Ocean Beach (sand is low = highballn!!)

A Climbing Porn Short - Happy Ending

Fingerbanged V3 - YOUTUBE

Like A V6 - YOUTUBE

Shipwreck V1/2 fa! (direct variation to Defrostifarian) - YOUTUBE

Cliff House .com

Sutro Baths .com

CLIFF HOUSE BOULDERS
{The topo pic was taken in fall when the sand is at its highest level of the summer/fall season. All the problems in the topo pic are highball / R or even can be R/X rated when the sand is low in winter/spring and pools of water with hard packed sand and even debris often fill the landing zone - the tide comes in quicker this time of year as well so look out for creeper waves! - the cave is oftewn wet in winter as well from seapage or just lack of sun}

1 Warm Up Traverse V2/3 l to r from far left into #10 -or- V1/2 r to l from the no-hands rest start below #6 + #7 -or- V2 from #10 to the far left to finish.

2 V0?

3 V0/1? -or- dyno variation V1/2!?

4 Archaeology V0 crack corner

5 V0 diagonal crack rail

6 V0?

7 V0 crack/face

8 V1 sit start steep pillar up left into crack

9 Defrostifarian V1 sit start steep pillar into roof direct -or- Shipwreck V1/2 sit start only
using center pillar (no right or left cracks)

10 Warm Up Crack (aka Batman Crack) V0 high sand stand start -or- V1 low sand/sit start wide crack --or-- Batman Forever V! bat hang! hang upside down from 2 (or 1!) feets!! :)

11 Flesh Wound V5 stand start face right of arete direct past pocket, no left arete! -or- V5/6 sit/low sand stand start -or- use arete V3/4 ??

12 Fingerbanged {possibly AKA: "The Old Man And The Sea" ? 5.11+/12- old school top rope??} new school V2 stand start -or- V3 left stand start -or- V4 right sit/low sand stand start

13 direct face right of Fingerbanged up into Rock Jitsu Project (V!!??)

14 Bellyacher Traverse V4 traverse from the far right face start low and left into the main Warm Up Traverse! or V5 undercling start!

15 Finger Wound V6 (aka Like A V6) sit start same as the right sit start to Fingerbanged or the Bellyacher sit start and traverse low and left into the sit start of Flesh Wound!

16 Wounded Knee Traverse V6/7 start on jug knob/horn right of undercling (or sit below it V7?) then traverse left into Bellyacher start - or do the new hard cave start to Wounded Knee for the entire Cliff House Traverse (V!!!???) - - LOW SAND Low Traverse V4 start in cave and traverse the line of sloper jugs and cracks across the main to finish on the far left - mega pumpy!!

17 Happy Ending V4 sit start below jug knob/horn (start of Wounded Knee) or V3 stand start on jug knob/horn and go up to crack jug then step back to slab on opposite side of cave and finish up the slab to top out - or Happier Ending V5 start in cave same as the Cliff House Traverse and traverse left to finish on Happy Ending - or Crappy Ending (V5 stand or V6!?) sit start Happy Ending and reverse traverse right to finish at the start of the traverse in the cave - or Crappier Ending V6 start on slab and reverse the swing move into Crappy Ending to finish - or Rock Jitsu V3 start on slab then reverse the swing move to the jug knob/horn at the start of Wounded Knee and then go up a few moves to the crack jug and step back to slab to finish the same as Happy Ending (do a complete 36o!) - or Rock Jitsu Project (V!!?) continue up from the crack jug and climb up left out of the tight cave corridor into Fingerbanged to top out - spotter and/or pads on the slab behind are a must.

18 Toof Roof V5 hanging tooth in cave - sit start then up left and back right to hang and drop off finish matched on high right hand layback in center of cave - or Toof Roof Direct (V!??) - or Cave Project (V-hard!?) - or Toof Roof Traverse V4 start same as Cliff House Traverse then traverse right to same hang and drop finish as Toof Roof - or sit start Toof Roof and reverse Toof Roof Traverse left into Happier Ending (V?) or Cliff House Traverse (V!?) - or start on far right and do swing move from slab onto the top of the Cave Project then traverse left into Toof Roof Traverse and finish either Happier Ending (V!?) or Cliff House Traverse (V!!??)

19 Cliff House Slab VB many slab/face/crack variations and a long fun slab traverse! (V!R no hands!!! :)

20 ! ! ? ?

"Finger Wound" (V6 FA!?)

2010-10-21T11:22:00.000-07:00

"Finger Wound" aka "Like A V6" (V6) FA!(?) Link-up of the hard right sit start to the classic "Fingerbanged" up left into the start of the excellent "Flesh Wound" - - "Finger Wound" lives up to its name, it gave me a numb left pointer finger tip and a small flapper on the middle finger next to it.

At the (newly developed!) Cliff House Boulders, Ocean Beach,
San Francisco CA 10-20-10 :)

Thanks to Benny for discovering/rediscovering these sweet rocks!

GO GIANTS!!

"Finger Wound" (V6 FA!?) Cliff House Boulders - YOUTUBE

Chuck B sends prow project at Rock Creek!

2010-10-20T00:10:00.000-07:00

Charlie Barrett sends prow project at Rock Creek! Sit start to "Compression Session" - -
" ? " (V13!?)!

BishopBouldering.Blogspot.com;

http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/2010/10/prow-project-rock-creek-v13-by-charlie.html

Booger Eater

2010-10-05T10:18:00.000-07:00

I just got one of the last good/hard projects on the new Booger Boulder at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park - Booger Eater V5/6!? fa!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tzy7uSO_2Y

Pro-crastination 1

2010-09-25T15:22:00.000-07:00

Pro-crastination (stand V5 sit V7) at the "new-ish" Lakeview Boulders on Mt Tam in Marin County. Pro-crastination is one of the best problems on the mountain and the sit start is the most difficult up-problem {and it is still unrepeated}!?
First Ascent: Ken Ariza 2007!?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw28R5XOsbc

Spicer -Labor Day

2010-09-07T23:59:00.000-07:00

Spicer - slideshow/video 2010
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQVrGOIHEQI

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering -Reborn!!

2010-08-26T18:05:00.000-07:00

Big props to Darren W (Splitclimber) for finding some new problems at some of the old boulders and even some good new boulders of his own as well as reigniting the flame of psyche at The Loaf!!

8-27-10 NEW boulders have been found in the creek near the Upper Canyon Trail Area! About 30 new problems to add to the 125 in the area makes over 150 total new and old boulder problems at The Loaf now. Most of these boulders have legit access, good trails or easy scrambling and short (1 to 15 minute) approaches - the also short 15-30 minute drive from either the Santa Rosa or Napa/Sonoma areas makes it certain - this is now Sonoma Counties best inland bouldering area for moderate levels or for circuit training. Get out and enjoy the lush forests, waterfalls and unique rocks (schist, polished greenstone and volcanic) - see you there!

Check out more info and pics for Sugarloaf Ridge and many other bouldering spots around the Bay Area and all over Northern California in Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering both by SUPERTOPO!

Below are some rough topo pics and info for nearly all of the boulder problems found inside the park - The NEW Upper Creek Boulders (Upper/Middle/Lower) and the main Upper and Lower Canyon Trail Boulders, The Biscuit Boulder and Sacred Rocks near the Goodspeed Trailhead and the seldom visited Sunrise Rocks off of Meadow Trail;

THE BISCUIT BOULDER
Directions:
[Off Goodspeed Trail - take a right turn onto a feint deer trail just after the second bridge at the start of Goodspeed Trail (the trail up to Hood Mountain from the southeast/Sugarloaf Ridge side - follow the trail up the creek to a smaller rocky creek coming down the hill on the right side - follow it uphill for about 3-5 minutes to The Biscuit on the hillside on the right side - total hike time = about 10 minutes from the parking area on the northwest side of Adobe Canyon Rd at the Goodspeed Trailhead]

THE BISCUIT BOULDER
1 V0/1 left arete/face
2 "Buttercup" V3 sit start on horizontal crack or V4 dyno
3 V1/2 face
4 "Butterscotch" V2r high face with natural thread
5 "The Biscuit" V2 right face diagonal traverse
6 "Biscuit Traverse" V3 traverse left to right up into #5
7 ?

THE SACRED ROCKS - NO PHOTO
Directions:
[Off Goodspeed Trail - follow the same directions to The Biscuit but don't go up the final creek on the right instead stay in the main creek mostly hiking on the hillside on the right side of the creek but also in and out of the creek doing some bushwhacking and rock hopping then along the left side of the creek to get to the obvious boulders that form an arch over the creek - the boulder on the right side has problems #1-2, the big main rock has the long, classic traverses #3-4 and the classic Call of the Wild #5 and the smaller rock next to it has the harder problems #7-8 - - there are a few other boulders in the area both upstream and downstream from the main Sacred Rocks - total hike time = about 15-25 minutes from the parking area]

THE SACRED ROCKS
1 "Safari" V0r high face on right side of right boulder
2 "Sacrifice" V3 arete over creek on right boulder (left of #1)
3 "The Sacred Traverse" V2 high V3 low
4 "The Sugar Traverse" V3/4 high V4/5 low
5 "Call of the Wild" V2 right side of main rock
6 "Call of Ktulu" V2 sit start short arete opposite #5
7 "Enchanted" V4 start #6 then traverse lip to right past the top of #8
8 "White Fang" V6 left or right variations - pull past namesake tooth on overhang
9 ?
10 ?

LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park at the first pullouts uphill from the Goodspeed Trail parking lot - and take a right turn onto (Lower) Canyon Trail - follow the trail for just a few feet downhill to a large tree on the right side and then take a feint trail downhill to the creek and The Asteroid Boulders - the Neptune Boulders are just a few more minutes down stream - total hike time = about 3-5 minutes to The Asteroid Boulders and about 5-10 min to Neptune]

LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - THE ASTEROID BOULDERS
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
{problems 1-3 are currently and possibly forever unclimbable due to fallen tree(s))
1 V1/2 left face stand start
2 "Cosmic" V2/3 stand - V4/5 sit
3 "Milky Way Traverse" V7 sit #2 or V6 stand
4 "Assteroid" V0 sit right side short bulge
5 "Orbit" V5 low start - V2 stand
6 "Uranus" V3 low sit start opposite #5
7 "The Fifth Element" V5 sit - V4 stand
8 ?

LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - NEPTUNE
1 "Neptune" V6/7 sit - V6 stand
2 "Neptune Direct" V6/7 sit V6 stand
3 ?

UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
This area has the highest concentration of problems and easiest access - it is divided into two main zones with the first being the newly developed zone closest to the parking in the creek and on the hillside above it and is called the UPPER CREEK BOULDERS and the other more established main area known as the UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are down Canyon Trail - seperate directions are listed for both areas below;

UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Upper Canyon Trailhead

UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - UPPER CREEK BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park the same as for the main Canyon Trail Boulders at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is across the road to the southwest and Pony Gate Trailhead starts from the northeast side of the pullout - across the road from Pony Gate Trailhead just up the road from the pullout is a feint trail down into the creek and the Booger Boulder - The Chatterbox is on the hill above and behind The Booger, hike up the road to the next feint trail then cross the creek and hike uphill past a mossy rock to the boulder - total hike time = about 1 minute from the parking area to the base of The Booger and about 2-3 min to The Chatterbox and about 5-15 min down the creek (summer/fall) to the other boulders]

BOOGER BOULDER (NEW!)
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 "Sneeze" V1 sit V0 stand left arete
2 "Booger Face" V1r stand V2 sit into left arete or V2/3 into direct right (V1r stand) face finish
3 "Hairy Booger" V2r stand start gaston rail/face over rock/water V3 sit start right hand on incut mini jug/edge
3A ? high face/arete over rock/water!?
4 "Booger Traverse" V4 stand start at big righ hand undercling then traverse right along the lip into the V1/2 finish of Booger Finger - or V4/5 low sit start on right hand sidepull/undercling edge and left on low gaston or lower undercling.
4A ? stand start same as #4 then traverse up left to finish on #1 or #2?? or do the low sit?? or !? traverse the entire main face of The Booger either left to right from #1 into #7 or right to left from #7 sit into #1 to finish - "The Big Booger Traverse"!!??
5 "Snot" V0 stand V1 sit start with low left hand incut mini jug/edge
6 "Stinging Nettle" V3 sit start just left of incut start hold of Booger Finger and go up left into #5
7 "Booger Finger" V2 sit into 3 stand starts/finishes; either "Booger Direct" V0/1 (stand start) top out direct or V1 (stand start) traverse up right around corner on sloper lip to mid way mantle top out (V0 stand start off rock) or V1/2 (stand start) continue traversing higher up right past loose block to top of boulder for the most fun, pumpy and classic method and also the end of the Booger Traverse.
7A "Sugar Booger" V3 sit start same as Booger Finger then traverse sloper lip up left into Snot V0 stand or "Hairy Sugar Booger" V4 same start then continue traversing left up into Hairy Booger.

BOOGER BOULDER - BACKSIDE
8 "Nasal Cavity" V3 same sit as #9 then left past nose/horn or start on nose/horn V1/2 or low sit V3/4 start on left hand dihedral seam crimp and make move up right to horn - - or lower !?
9 "Nose Pincher" V1 stand start on upper right hand meat-wrap/nose pinch or "Nose Picker" V4 low sit or V2/3 mid way start on sloper/crimper rail
10 "Dirty Booger" V4/5 low start up right into #11 or V5/6 sit start
11 "Olfactory" V0 stand start bulge slab face into the downclimb (#12) to top out
12 VB easiest way up/down - downclimb
13 "Nasophilia" V0 steep slab face left or "Mucus Membrane" V1 low sit right arete or V0 stand
14 short steep sit downstream - left face direct or right arete?
15 stand start short bulge/face in creek next to #14?

THE CHATTERBOX (NEW!)
1 "Chatterbox" V2 stand face on left V2/3 sit
2 "Hotbox" V2/3 stand V3 sit
3 "Keep Quiet" V2 stand start V3 sit start steep slab face right of tree then up left into #1
4 "Tree Spotter" V1 right side of face right of tree
5 V0 right arete from low face start
6 "Chatterbox Traverse" V3/4 L to R or best R to L into #1 to finish
7 VB right arete/lip traverse up left to top

SWEET TOOTH (NEW!)
1 "Jug Top" V1 sit
2 ""Sweet Tooth""? aka ""Pinball Wizard""? V!? project!
3 VB traverse from right to left and up

TREE TOP (NEW!?)
1 ? V0?
2 ? V0/1?
3 ? V1/2 traverse left to right end on #5
3A ? start #3 then finish low direct/eliminate to far right side
4 "Tree Top" V0

TREE TOP - BACKSIDE
6 ? V1 traverse lip from far right to left end on #4
7 ? V2/3 low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to left end on #4
7A ? low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to far left end on #1
8 "3 Move Blunder" left V2 sit or right V1 sit
9 V0 stand start V1 low start small boulder
10 !? sloper mantle lip - or low start on tiny crimper edges!!??
11 ?

LOST + FOUND (NEW!)
1 "Lost + Found Arete" V1/2 stand V2/3 low start
2 ? face?

MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!?
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start?
3 ? match layback left start or wimpier right start - short but good!?
4 "Lost + Found" (on previous topo pic)
5 ?

MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDER - MAIN FACE
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!? (on previous topo pic)
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start? (on previous topo pic)
3 ? match left layback or right start - short but good!? (on previous topo pic)
4 ? shorty?
5 ?

MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - LEFT MAIN CLIFF - 5 CRACKS (NEW!)
1 ? left crack corner - tight squeeze?
2 "Volcano Crack" V0R layback/corner crack to jug mantle - downclimb left
3 "Volcano Direct" V0 stand start crack/arete or V? low start - downclimb left
4 ? crack on right - downclimb left?
5 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse up left to downclimb!?
6 ? traverse/prow!??
7 ?

MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - CENTER MAIN CLIFF (NEW!)
1 "Amphibian Crack" V0/1? crack traverse r to l to no-hands knee-bar
2 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse!? (#5 on previous topo pic)
3 ? traverse/prow!?? (#6 on previous topo pic)

MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - MAIN CLIFF (NEW!)
1 ? diagonal crack?
2 ? direct boulder problem?
3 ? left boulder problem?
4 ? crack to low traverse over water!?
5 ? crack to high traverse!?
6 ? crack route - rope!??
7 *incomplete route!??

MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK (NEW!) - OVERVIEW
1 ? short but good right mantle?
2 ? butt dragger traverse - either way?
3 ? short left mantle?
4 ? short face?
5 ? short arete/slab?
6 "Volcano Crack" V0R layback/corner to jug mantle - downclimb left (5 CRACKS)
7 *Upper Falls Boulders / Lost + Found Boulder

SWARMED BOULDER (NEW!)
1 "Swarmed" V5/6 low sit diagonal up right into stand or V2/3 stand start right hand arete and left hand sloper lump then make a move up to pinch and then top out!
2 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R slick slab face over bad/rocky landing
3 V1/2 low stand start same as #1 then traverse up left into #2
4 "The Hive" V4/5 start with right hand low on sidepull and traverse left into #3
5 ? bulge/face?
6 ? slab?
7 ?

LOWER-UPPER CREEK - MAIN BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 ? highball roof/face!?
2 ? slick slab!?
3 ? arete/prow?
4 ? short but good right start?
5 ? short left start?
6 "Swarmed" V5/6 (listed on previous boulder)
7 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R
8 high arete!??
9 V0 short bloc mantle or low start?
10 ?

SKUNKY FUNKY (NEW!)
1 "Skunky Funky" V4/5 low start arete/bulge or V3/4 stand start!
2 ? left start!?
3 ? right face over bad landing?
4 VB prow
5 V0 start VB prow then traverse right to VB on far right
6 VB far right
7 V0 traverse base of volcanic slab cliff - r to l - 40 feet long!
8 *Big Spire? - easy way up/down backside V!? - or left crack main face or right arete!??
9 ?
10 ?

UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is directly across from the parking and heads downhill to the boulders and the seasonal waterfall - total hike time = 3-5 minutes to The Canyon Trail Boulder on the left and about a total of 5-7 minutes to the main area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS on the left just off the main trail just past the intersection of a smaller trail on the left that switches back down into the creek - it is about 7-10 minutes total from the upper parking area downhill to the base of the waterfall - to reiterate; the main bouldering area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are above the waterfall between the trail and the creek and the creek boulder is just below the main area in, you guessed it - the creek]

SPANKY BOULDER (NEW!) - NO PHOTO
[off the left side of (Upper) Canyon Trail above C.T.Boulder]
1 "Spanky" !?
2 ?

CANYON TRAIL BOULDER
[alongside Upper Canyon Trail]
1 "Trailblazer" V2/3 stand V5 sit
2 "Traiblazer Arete" V1 stand V2 sit
3 "Upstream" V0 stand V1 sit
4 VB stand V0 sit
5 "Fishy Climb" aka "Kids Climb" VB sit or VB- stand
6 VB+ slab arete mini spire
7 "Canyon Trail Traverse" V5 r to l or V4 l to r

HIDE OUT BOULDER (NEW!)
[behind the main Canyon Trail Boulder]
1 "Bunchgrass" V1 sit start or V0 stand start arete
2 "Leaf Liter" V0 stand - "Sweet Leaf" V3 sit center face or V0 stand or V1 sit center-right
3 V0 sit
4 "Hide" V3/4 diagonal seam/crack traverse - stay low - lip off - or use lip "Seek" V0/1
5 V0 left of #1 low start

SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 "Nice" V0- left face/arete
2 "Not So Nice" V0 center face
3 "Snips + Snails" V0+ arete/face

SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - SOUTH FACE
4 "Sugar" V1 arete
5 "Spice" V2r highball face with slanted hillside landing - spicy!
6 "Old Spice" V1r crack/face
7 "Spice Crack" V0r crack
8 "Sugar + Spice Traverse" V1/2 start on #7 and traverse left and up into #1 - or "Snail Trail" V0/1 start #3 traverse up left into #1 or "Sugar Trail" V1/2 start #7 traverse left into Snail Trail.

SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 V0 short but good left corner/arete/face
2 "Finga Tingla" V3r right of corner center of steep slab face
3 V1r stand - V2/3 sit direct up dirty crumbly but fun arete/prow
4 V1/2 into #1 or "Finga Tingla Traverse" V4r into #2 - low traverse start from square cut jug

SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - EAST FACE
5 "Sugar Smack Direct" V1 stand - V3 sit start on edges left of jug - jug is off
6 "Sugar Smack" V1 stand V2 sit start on low square cut jug
7 "Sugar Daddy" V2 stand - V3 sit
8 "Sugar Mama Traverse" V4/5? either direction?

LOVE + HATE BOULDER
1 "Love" V0 diagonal traversing right arete/jug lip (good warmup)
2 "Love + Hate Face" V3/4 center face
3 "Hate" V2/3 left arete
4 "Love + Hate Traverse" V4/5 right to left into #3 - V4 left to right

LOVE + HATE BOULDER - BACKSIDE (NEW!)
5 "Religion" V1 arete sit - V0 stand start
6 "Politiks" V1/2 face sit - V0/1 stand start
7 ?

PYRAMID BOULDER
1 "Pyramid Traverse" V2 traverse
2 "Pyramid Power" V2 sit start
3 ? V5 link up eliminate - sit start #2 then left skipping jug above into sloper on start of #4!
4 "Pyramid Face" V1/2 start on sloper up into arete
5 "Pyramid Arete" V2 sit - V1 stand

PYRAMID BOULDER - SOUTHEAST FACE
5 "Pyramid Arete" V2 sit - V1 stand
6 V1/2 sit bulge to slab

CREEK BOULDER
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit
2 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit
3 V3/4/5 stand/sit ??
4 "Lockwood" V2 stand - V3 sit
5 ? traverse !?
6 ?

ARROWHEAD BOULDER
1 "Flaming Arrow" V1 right arete sit V0 stand
2 "Arrowhead" V3/4 center face low start
3 "Arrowhead Arete" V2/3 left arete low start V0/1 stand
4 "Arrowhead Traverse" V4/5 r to l - start on #3 finish #1

ARROWHEAD BOULDERS
5 V2/3 traverse r to l into #6
6 V1/2 face
7 ?

SUNRISE ROCKS - NO PHOTO
(Day use fee required to park in Day Use area or walk in)
{hard to find, rarely visited, often overgrown}
Directions:
[Park at the Day Use Parking Lot inside the pay area at the top of Adobe Canyon Rd near the campground and hike east to Meadow Trail and follow it to the first right turn then take a left into the creek and try to follow feint deer trails doing some bushwhacking uphill for about 5-10 more minutes to the 10-20 foot tall, untamed, overgrown, dirty rocks in the creek]

SUNRISE ROCKS
1 "Matchbox" v4 sit start in tight corridor or V1 stand start arete/slab
2 "Sunburn" V1 left/uphill face
3 "Sundial" V2 center face
4 "Sunrise Traverse" V3 start on right side arete and traverse up left
5 ?

Sugarloaf Ridge VIDEOS;

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering Video - Booger Boulder YOUTUBE

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering - Lower Upper Creek (new) YOUTUBE

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering Video-Slideshow (old) YOUTUBE

"Sugar Booger" V3fa! sit YOUTUBE

"Booger Finger" V2fa! sit YOUTUBE

"Lost Arete" V2fa! sit YOUTUBE

"Snot" V1fa! sit YOUTUBE

MORE INFO, PICS AND VIDS COMING SOON..

Have Fun!!

Mo Mendo yO!

2010-08-14T18:17:00.000-07:00

Spicer!!

2010-08-11T14:41:00.000-07:00

More New Mendo Rocks!

2010-07-30T15:34:00.000-07:00

New Eel River Bouldering!

2010-07-11T12:10:00.000-07:00

Black Butte Arete Direct (V6/7 FA!?) Eel River - YOUTUBE

Black Butte Traverse - midway start (V3/4 FA!?) Eel River - YOUTUBE

BAY AREA TOP ROPES is out! and coming soon BAY AREA CLIMBING by SUPERTOPO

2010-06-07T08:53:00.000-07:00

BAY AREA TOP ROPES is out now! and coming out this fall 2010 BAY AREA CLIMBING! Bay Area Top Ropes is great for anyone into local top roping but it's also an introduction type guidebook great for an inexperienced or first time guidebook user. It has a small instructional/philosophy section as well as some select bouldering and lead climbing info to supplement the super-thorough Supertopo guide to all the best top rope areas in and around the San Francisco Bay Area. If you want the most up to date lead climbing info for the Bay Area you will have to wait for BAY AREA CLIMBING or if you want Bay Area Bouldering info you will need BAY AREA BOULDERING which is already for sale online or at a mountain shop or rock gym near you - all by SUPERTOPO!!

PHOTO=
Charlie Barrett on-sight flashes 2nd ascent(!?) of Hard To Swallow (5.12a) on Swallow Rock near Dos Rios at the Eel River! {{This area and many new/old areas like it from the out of print Wine Country Rocks guidebook are in Bay Area Top Ropes and even more will be in Bay Area Climbing!}}

BAY AREA TOP ROPES by SUPERTOPO

2010-05-07T09:59:00.000-07:00

Bay Area Top Ropes - THE guidebook to all the best top rope rocks in and around the San Francisco Bay Area! Some lead climbing and bouldering info is also included as well as a small instructional section with some technique and theory/philosophy.

Coming May 17th from SUPERTOPO!!

Also check out the new SUPERTOPO Outdoor Gear Best Price Finder

Salt Point

2010-04-26T13:10:00.000-07:00

Between a Rock and a
Hard Place V6

Vise Grip V4

Nautilus 5.11a

Rosey Palm 5.10fa!

The Cheese 5.9fa!

Dynamite Cave

2010-04-15T17:24:00.000-07:00

Not even sure if the cave was made with dynamite or some other mining technique but the name sounded cool - "The Dynamite Cave" right to left;

- Why Ask Why V2 low traverse up left into Dynamite Crack

- Dynamite Crack V1 sit or stand short jam crack with awkward corner top out (beware of choss)

- Dynamite Cave V3/4 start low and left of Dynamite Crack and diagonal traverse up right into the crack to finish (loose/hollow holds at start and finish - not recomended unless desperate ;)

*Mt St Helena above The Quarry and just below the dirt road on a side trail with a sweet viewpoint!

if u dont know now you know - Super Slab

2010-03-31T17:49:00.000-07:00

The classic sloper rail traverse "Abalone" v7 at the often overlooked Super Slab, Jenner.

Climber; Andrew Zaslove

Mt St Helena, Far Side -fixer upper/f.a.'r!

2010-03-12T20:37:00.000-08:00

Great Job Jerry, Harrison, Moji and Ken!!!! delicious lunch Moji! awesome synchronistic meeting and sending Eric! and a Special Thanks to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for all the help!!

So far we fixed bolts on top of Shute Mills, The Chief and Feelin Your Oats as well as the smashed lead bolts/hangers on Feelin Your Oats.

*we also put up a few great "new" routes - some of the best are;

"Cereal Killer" 5.9 4 bolts {JD lead fa)
(left of Feelin Your Oats)

"Synchronicity" 5.11 3 bolts {CS lead fa)
(back of spire above Chief)

MSH Far Side -fixer upper/f.a.'r!

2010-03-12T20:29:00.000-08:00

"Synchronicity" 5.11 (lead fa)!? Far Side MSH

2010-03-12T20:25:00.000-08:00

Mt Tam Bouldering -update

2010-03-12T19:09:00.000-08:00

Mac did a good new? V4*** problem on the Rocky Roadside Boulder and i did a new? sit start on the Campus Girl Boulder at Lakeview - i called it "Girl Power" V4/5**

Kenny Ariza does Kitty Hawk V5fa at the Lakeview Boulders, Mt Tam!

2010-02-25T15:05:00.000-08:00

Kenny Ariza does Campus Girls V7fa at the Lakeview Boulders, Mt Tam!

2010-02-25T14:50:00.000-08:00

Mt St Helena / Palisades Bouldering

2010-02-17T18:13:00.000-08:00

Carmet Boulder

2010-02-17T17:52:00.000-08:00

Val at Carmet (between Bodega and Jenner). This boulder has some fun vB-v1 and a v2 360 traverse.

2009-12-01T16:22:00.000-08:00

Mount Tamalpais State Park in Marin County has some of the best views of the San Francisco Bay Area I have ever seen and a lot of them are right from the seat of your car. Mt Tam is the birthplace of mountain biking with many steep trails for biking or hiking all over the mountain. Local climbers know Mt Tam as a good place to find some easy to moderate top ropes on fairly solid volcanic stone with good cracks, pockets and jugs.

There has also been a slow development of bouldering going on but never more than some spread out problems of varied styles. Now thanks to luck and some inspired locals (Kenny Ariza and Eliot Carlsen) who explored all over the mountain in the last few years in search of new rock it also has a fair share of quality, concentrated bouldering areas. The mountain now sports about 100 problems with legit access on well maintained park trails.

-Bay View Boulder (on right below small turnout with big view) + East Bloc/ATF (on left in trees on hill)
[about 0.9 miles east of Rock Springs on East Ridgecrest]

-Lakeview Boulders [off Lakeview Trail west of the East Peak on East Ridgecrest]

*For more info and pics of Mt Tam on Supertopo click here; SUPERTOPO.COM/bouldering

more pics, info and vids coming soon..

Friday the 13th

2009-11-13T15:38:00.000-08:00

Check out some pics of a few friends and I on some spooky Nor Cal highballs/solos for friday the 13th!

California Roadtrip - Nor Cal

2009-09-17T10:30:00.000-07:00

California Roadtrip
A Climber's Guide Northern California

by Tom Slater and Chris Summit
1st Edition - - 2009

The top selection of some of the best rocks in the Southern Sierra and Yosemite Gold Country north to Tahoe and Mt Lassen along the mountainous east side of Northern California. Along the Pacific coast the book takes you from Big Sur to the San Francisco Bay Area and the Wine Country all the way up to the North Coast areas on the western edge of the continent. This book hooks you up with the most up to date info and choice photos of most of Nor Cal's premiere sport and traditional climbs and boulder problems!

Check out: www.slatervison.com and www.maximuspress.com

pics=
(top to bottom)

*Front Cover - Shangri La, Shuteye Ridge.

~ Sulfur steam vent, Mt Lassen.

~ Bloody Talon (V7fa) Eagle Pk, Mt Lassen.

~ Richie Esquibel gets primal on Cro-Magnon (5.12d) with local limestone fa master Eric Chemello chillin in the background, Trinity Aretes.

~ Sean Brady is Living a Nightmare (V7), Fort Ross.

~ Sean Brady on the Apocalyptic Bebop (V4), North Cove at Fort Ross.

~ Slackliner at Promontory.

~ Jason Campbell on Steep Climb Named Desire (5.13d), Donner Pass.

~ 90 Foot Wall (5.7 solo), Eagle Creek Canyon.

~ Elizabeth Brand and friends on the classic Spoon (V2) Castle Rock.

~ Tresa Black on Bar Fly (5.11c), The Bar.

~ Charlie Barrett redpoints Naked and Disfigured (5.13a), Mickey's Beach.

~ Kevin Jorgeson has a Dream of White Porsches (5.13b), Mickey's Beach.

~ Valentine Cullen on the Bunny Arete (V0), Bunny Blocks, Bald Rock.

Bay Area Top Ropes

2009-09-10T21:53:00.000-07:00

Bay Area Top Ropes Instructional Guidebook coming spring 2010 from SUPERTOPO!

Bay Area TR pics on Supertopo at Facebook

Heres a few pics from some of the areas in the book;
Sunset Rock, Mt Tam and Split Rock - girl power = Val, Holly, Kira and Christina.

Tree in the Wall - NEW Castle Rock Bouldering!

2009-09-09T18:49:00.000-07:00

These cool new boulders are 2 miles south of Castle Rock State Park Parking Lot - park on the left (east) side of Skyline and hike the main trail northeast about 5 minutes. (VB-V6!?+)

pics= Mr Summit and Andrew Zaslove

Check out some vids from the boulderers (baikelai, d0novan, bouldertroll1) that found and developed this rad new area on my youtube;

MrChrisSummit subscriptions - YouTube

Travis - "Cave Spider" V4 FA

2009-09-07T20:36:00.000-07:00

Travis repeats his mega classic "Cave Spider" V4 - Dutch Bill Boulder

I rarely like eliminates but once in awhile they can be almost as good as the original line - like this direct right (harder) variation to Cave Spider - Cave Spider Direct (no left hand rail);

Cave Spider Direct (v5) from Jon McCartie on Vimeo

WestCoastBouldering.com

Mt Tam bouldering unleashed!!

2009-09-06T11:18:00.000-07:00

Mt Tam has become a local destination bouldering area! There are about 100 new problems at 5 new areas and one area has a good concentration of about 50 problems from VB to V7+! Solid volcanic stone with edges, pockets and cracks. Check out more info and pics and vids coming soon..

pic= Kenny on his classic "Procrastination" aka "Campus Girls" V7 (unrepeated!?) at the Lakeview Boulders (off of Lakeview Trail)

Dutch Bill Creek Boulders

2009-09-05T21:52:00.000-07:00

I found these boulders down the creek from the main new area a few years ago. at the same time i saw the top of the rad new dutch bill boulder from the road but never saw the steep bottom - doh!

So now that i love the new boulder so much i figured it needed some warmups - here they are;

Puka v1 stand or v2 sit start in pockets, Puka Direct v3, Bumpathon V0

Pinch Smack v2 stand v3 sit center or right and Hooka v4 low left sit into Pinch Smack stand

climber= Sean Brady
pics= Summit

Chuck B sends BIG!!

2009-09-05T21:33:00.000-07:00

Charlie Barrett just did 3rd ascent (after Kevin Jorgeson 1st and Ethan Pringle 2nd) of the Mickey's Beach Arete, Au Natural (with no fake pocket) - 5.14a !!

*Check out more pics and up to date info on this climb and all the best climbs at Mickeys Beach and Nor Cal in the new California Roadtrip - Nor Cal by Chris Summit + Tom Slater at; www.slatervision.com or www.maximuspress.com

The Dutch Bill Boulder

2009-09-02T14:05:00.000-07:00

Heres a few pics from the recently found, cleaned and climbed Dutch Bill Boulder!

{West Sonoma County}

Travis and Ryan are to thank for this gem.

pics= Ryan, Emmet, Charlie and Travis

1st blog!!

2009-09-02T13:10:00.000-07:00

Word Up Bloggage!

With the words and images on this blog as well as thru my guidebooks (supertopo.com, slatervision.com and maximuspress.com) I hope to teach, train, inform, inspire, motivate, enrich and enlighten anyone with any questions or desires for Northern California Climbing/Bouldering. I also hope to portray the message that the abilities and powers of the human body, mind and soul are more than we can ever imagine. All life on this planet is connected and very fragile and precious and every breath must be cherished.

I hope to inspire desire :)