Wine Country Bouldering - Fall 2024 Update!

 

Wine Country Bouldering

Wine Country Bouldering by Chris Summit & GunksApps

Wine Country Bouldering fall 2024 update is out! The original edition had 375 boulder problems total and this update has 200 newly added. The new problems are a mix of old classics that were not previously included, many brand new first ascents and a few open projects for a grand total of 575 VB-V12 problems. The new areas included are Ocean Cove with the epic DWS/TRS, over the ocean, "big wave boulder problems" on the water polished tafoni sandstone of Seafarer Rock right next to the campground and the nice little collection of quality lines in the cove to the south. The popular fun bouldering zone, The Quarry at The Call Box area in Salt Point State Park. Frog Woman Rock, off US101 in Mendocino County has a plethora of new problems at all the old areas, The Brave Boulders, Frog Woman Boulders and the Frogman Boulders. Frogman even has a few new local test-pieces, Fresh Squeezed V8 and the hardest of all the newly added problems in the update Osiris V10. Marshall Gulch on the Bodega Coast is a classic old school, low tide, sandy beach, soul bouldering spot and Mossy Rock in the Mayacamas Mountains is a small but precious volcanic boulder outcrop in the heart of Napa Valley.

One time payment of $24.99, updates for free for life. 10% of the proceeds goes to the Northern California Climbers Coalition to help fund future development, crag cleanups, trail work and graffiti removal.

Wine Country Bouldering

Southern Thailand Bouldering

Krabi

Tonsai / Railay / Phra Nang / North Wall

Tonsai

Temple Cave aka Boulder Cave  {Topos courtesy of Bill Bubb / Boulder Bill}

2024 Update - left to right - select classics + warmups*

1 BRAT Traverse 6b+/V4 

2 The Flash 6b/V4 (5+/V2 drop off at big stalactite*)

3 The Slash 7a/V6

4 Bar Fight 7a/V6 (6b+/V4 stand start at jug)

5 Temple Warmup 6a+/V3 (stand start Bar Fight traverse right to drop off Touchy Heely stand*)

6 Heelfight 7a+/V7

7 Haymaker 6b+/V4 (6a+/V3 stand start at jug*)

8 Track and Field 7a+/V7

9 Gaeng Tai Pla 8a/V11 (7c/V9 stand start at jug)

10 Try Hard 8a+/V12 low right start to Gaeng Tai Pla!

11 Killing Time 7b/V8

12 Blue Eye Samurai  7b/V8

13 Touchy Heely 7a/V6 (6b+/V4 stand start at jug)

14 Monkey Fight 7c+/V10

15  Monkey Business 7c/V9

16 Swedish Tiger 7b+/V8

17 Kissing Apples 7b/V8 

18 Kissing Berries 7a+/V7

19 Evanescence 6b+/V5

20 Superpons Wing 7c/V9

21 Snail House Rock 7a/V6

22 Ten Commandments 6b/V4

23 V13 start on far right traverse left into Gaeng Tai Pla!

24 Crossing Ganesh 6B+/V5 chandelier stalactites - far right side of cave.

25

26

27

28

29

30

Meditation Cave (Left/West side of the main Temple Boulder Cave)

31 Meditation Cave 6b+/V4

32 Twisted Vines 6a+/V3 FA

33 "monitor roof"?

34 "twisted lizard"?

35 ?

Tonsai Beach - North Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Sasana Traverse 7a/V6 FA (Melting Wall Base)

2 Wat Wat 5/V1 FA? (Wat Bar)

3 Legacy V2 low drop off - V? (Legacy Restaurant)

4 legacy direct?

5

6

7

8

9

10

Tonsai Beach - South Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Tonsai Beach Boulder Arete 7a/V6

2 Tonsai Traverse ! ?

3

4

5

Tonsai - Gibbon Roof

1 The Rumble 5+/V3 FA

2 Jungle Rumble Traverse 6c+/V5 FA

3

4

5

Railay

Tiger Wall - Stalactite Tiger Cave

1 Tiger Tail Left 6a/V3 sit - left-to-right FA

2 Tiger Tail Right 6a/V3 sit - right-to-left FA

3

4

5

Railay-Tonsai Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Stash Pocket 5+/V2 FA

2 Pocketasia Traverse 6b+/V4 FA

3 pocket face?

4 ?

5 pocket roof traverse!?

6 "railway"? pocket roof mid start!?

7 "railway direct"? pocket roof direct?

8 ?

9 ?

10 ?

Railay Beach West - North Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Prickly Pear 5+/V2 FA

2 arete?

3 slab?

4 ?

5 ?

Railay Beach West - South Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Rock Bottom 5/V1 FA

2

3

4

5

Wees Wall

Python Cave

1 Python Traverse 6c+/V5 FA

2 full python traverse!?

3 python face?

4 python cave traverse?

5 ?

Monkey Boulder

6 Alpha Monkey 6a/V3 FA

7 Monkey Tail 6a/V3 FA

8 Monkey Tail Direct 6a/V3 FA

9 Monkey Butt 5/V1 FA

10 ?

11

12

13

14

15

Railay Beach East - Muay Thai Boulder (Low Tide)

1 Rockhaus Roof 6a/V3 FA

2 The Clinch aka Muay Thai Roof 7a/V6 FA

3 Jellyfish Taco 5+/V2 FA

4 Barnacle 6a/V3 FA

5 Corral Reefer 5+/V2 FA

6

7

8

9

10

Railay-Phra Nang Trail Boulders

1 Stalactite Cave 6a+/V3 FA jug start to small stalactite - or - V4/5 to large stalactite!?

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

Phra Nang Boulders

Phra Nang Southeast Beach

1 6a/V3 black streak - or - Dynoir 6c+/V4 FA eliminate variation dyno! or 6c/V5 sit?

2 5/V1 jug line - or - 5+/V2 dyno!

3 5+/V2 jug line

4 ?

5 ?

6 ?

7 ?

8 ?

9 ?

10 traverse(s)?

Phra Nang Southeast - The Orchasm

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

Phra Nang Northwest Beach

20 ?

21 ?

22 Phra Nang Prow 6b/V4 FA?

23 Lunasea 6b+/V4 FA

24 ?

25 "belly of the whale/magnum opus"!!??

26 ?

27 ?

28 ?

29 ?

Leaf Monkey Boulders

30 ?

31 Leaf Monkey 5+/V2 FA

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

Krabi

North Wall Bouldering

Patio Roof

1 Patio Roof 6c+/V5 FA

2 patio roof direct?

3 ?

Dragons Cave

4 "dragons teeth"?

5 "baby dragon"?

6 "dragon king direct"?

7 "dragon king"!?

8 Way of the Dragon 6a+/V4 FA (Way of the Dragon Traverse 6b/V4 start far left)

9 Dragon Fire 6b/V4 FA (Dragon Fire Traverse 6b+/V4 start far left)

10 Enter the Dragon 6a+/V3 FA

11 Dragon Claw 7a+/V7 FA

12 Dragon Eyes 6c+/V5 FA

13 "dragons cave traverse"!?

14 ?

15 ?

Shell Cave

16 ?

17 ?

18 The Eye 5/V1 FA

19 The Shell 6c+/V5 FA

20 Shell Cave 7a/V6 FA

21 Shell Game Direct 7a/V6 FA

22 Shell Game 7a+/V7 FA

23 Seashell 6a+/V3 FA

24 Seashell Direct 6a/V3 FA

Jurassic Cave

25 ?

26 ?

27 steep face!?

28 steep face into Dynosaur?

29 steep face into Jurassic Jugs?

30 steep face into Jurassic Traverse?

31 Dynosaur Roof 6c/V5 low roof start into Dynosaur! FA

32 Dynosaur 6a/V3 dyno! -or- Dynosaur Sit 6b/V4 roof start FA

33 Jurassic Roof 6b+/V4 low roof start into Jurassic Jugs FA

34 Jurassic Roof Traverse 6c+/V5 - low roof start into Jurassic traverse FA

Jurassic Xmas

35 Dynosaur Jugs 6a+/V3 low right sit start jugs into dyno! FA

36 Jurassic Jugs 5/V1 low right sit start FA? -or- 4/V0 stand start jugs FA?

37 Jurassic Traverse 6a/V3 to last face jugs -or- 6a+/V3 to no hands stem cave full finish FA?

38 "from russia with love" huge overhanging stalactite!?

39 ?

Life of Leif

41 ?

42 "got the life traverse(s)"??

Rock n Roll

43 Rock n Roll Traverse 6b+/V4 FA?

Mythical Beasts

44 Mythical Traverse 6a/V3 low traverse (5+/V2 upper lip traverse) FA

45 ?

Suay Boulders

1 over the water problem 1?

2 over the water problem 2?

3 over the water problem 3?

4 over the water problem 4?

5 over the water problem 5? - traverse??

Dojo Cave aka The Dojo

6 far left up problem?

7 far left traverse start?

8 Dojo Fun Traverse 5/V1 FA

9 Dojo Fun 4/V0 FA

10 ?

11 Suay Cave 6a/V3 FA

12 suay king!?

13 dojo seam traverse?

14 dojo roof traverse?

15 ?

16 Doja Cat 5+/V2 FA

17 Doja Direct 5+/V2 FA

18 Dojo Cat 6a/V3 FA

19 ?

20 Kung Fu Coconut 5+/V2 FA

21 Karate Coconut 5+/V2 FA

22 5+/V2 FA

23 5/V1 FA

24 dojo cave!?

25 ?

The Stash Cave

26 ?

27 ?

28 Must Stash 5+/V2 FA

29 Stash Roof 5+/V2 FA

30 Stash Roof Direct 6a/V3 FA

31 ?

32 ?

The Viewpoint Boulder

33 viewpoint traverse?

34 viewpoint face?

35 viewpoint arete?

Boulder Bill - Temple Cave Tonsai

Mikko - Temple Cave

Elan - Temple Cave

Melting Traverse FA - Melting Wall Tonsai

Wat Wat FA? - Wat Bar Tonsai

Suay Cave FA - Krabi

Prickly Pear FA? - North Railay Beach

Rock Bottom FA? - South Railay Beach

Stalactite Tiger Cave - Tiger Wall Railay

Alpha Monkey FA - Wees Wall Railay

Python Traverse FA - Wees Wall Railay

Rockhaus Roof FA - Muay Thai Wall Railay

Muay Thai Roof FA - Muay Thai Wall Railay

Pocketasia Traverse FA - Tonsai-Railay Beach

Tonsai Beach Boulder Arete - South Tonsai Beach

Thailand Bouldering - YouTube Playlist

Ocean Cove

Ocean Cove Campground & Stillwater Cove

New First Ascent (FA) top-rope & sport & trad routes, boulder problems and DWS;

Seafarer Rock

1 Sea Horse 5.10 TR or V1R/X DWS+ FA=RT

2 Sea Horse Direct 5.11 TR FA=RT

3 The Bends V!? FA=CJ?

4 V0 slab prow south face DWS FA=RT

5 V1 main south face DWS FA=RT

6 ? 5.11 TR or V3R/X DWS+ FA=CJ

7 5.9? lumpy south west face TR FA=?

8 ? FA=CJ/ED?

9 ? FA=CJ/ED?

10 Seafarer 5.9 TR or V0R DWS FA=CJ/CS

11 ? 5.10 TR or V2R DWS FA=CJ

12 ? 5.11 TR or V3R/X DWS+ FA=ED

13 Sea Sickness 5.11 TR or V3R FA=CJ

14 ?

15 ?

North Ocean Cove

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

Central Ocean Cove

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

South Ocean Cove / Stillwater Cove

36 The Arch Traverse V5 cave bulge traverse FA=CS

37 The Arch Problem V4 center bulge FA=CS

38 ?

39 5.11 face TR FA=MN

40 5.10 crack TR FA=MN

41 ?

42 ?

43 V0

44 V1

45 Ocean Breeze V1R high corner crack FA=CS

46 ?

47 Ocean Cove Wall V2R highball wall FA=MN/RT

48 ?

49 Pirate Cave V4 cave face FA=CS

50 Be Still My Beating Heart V2R center face of small spire MN/TL

The Totem Boulders

Timber Cove

NEWLY DEVELOPING AREA - NO DIRECTIONS/WORD OF MOUTH ONLY 

{This is an ongoing evolving work in progress list of our new first ascents}

New First Ascent (FA) sport routes and boulder problems;

Upper Totem Boulders

1 Totem Crack V1 FA=CS

2 V8 FA=CJ

3 ? slab

4 ? slab arete

5 ? slab traverse

6 ? arete

7 ? back slab traverse

8 ? hidden boulder left

9 ? hidden boulder right

10 ? hidden boulder traverse

11

12

13

14

15

Middle Totem Boulders

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

Lower Totem Boulders

25 Follow The Fishermen V5 or V7 low pockets bat hang start FA=CJ

26 V3? left side FA=ED? low start rail!?

27 ? low start rail into right finishes!?

28 ? right side?

29 V4? roof crack left FA=CJ/ED? low start!?

30 V4? roof crack direct dyno FA=CJ? low start!?

31 V4? roof crack right FA=CJ/ED? low start!?

32 ? link into cave!?

33 ? cave!?

34 

35 

36

37

38

39

40

Totem Beach Boulders

41 5.10d roof to face FA=JT/KP

42 ? west face FA=KP?

43 ? FA=JT/KP?

44 ? FA=JT/KP? 

45 V3? bulge campus start FA=CJ

46 ? bulge left face?

47 V2? water hole FA=KP?

48 ? mini roof?

49

50

51

52

53

54

55

Frog Woman Rock 2023 update

Frog Woman Rock - Frogman & Frog Woman Boulders, Untamed Rocks

New 2023/24 First Ascent (FA) sport routes and boulder problems;

Untamed Rocks
1 Thundercling Traverse 5.10 FA=CS

2 Thundercling 5.11 FA=CS

3 5.12 FA=KW

4 ?

5 ?

6 Emerald Cup Traverse V4 FA=CS

7 Switchblade V4 low start FA=CS

8 Tetrahedral V6 FA=CS

9 Tetrahedron V6 FA=CS

10 ?

Frogman Boulders

1 Frogger 5.9 or 5.10 FA=CS

2 Frogman Arete 5.11 FA=CS

3 direct face!?

4 V1 FA=LE

5 V2 FA-LE

6 V3 FA=CS

7 Sacred Geometry V5 FA=CS

8 ? V8 FA=?

9 Osiris V10 FA=VA

10 Sticks & Stones V5 sit V3 stand FA=CS

11 Quartz Slab Traverse V3 FA=CS

12 Styx V2r FA=CS

13 Tree Frog Arete V5 sit V3 stand FA=LE stand FA=CS sit

14 leifs dyno V? FA=LE

15 ?

Black Bart Boulders

new probs list:

Black Bart Boulder - left to right;

The Heist V3 FA=GT
The Heist Traverse V5 FA=CS
The Bandit V4 FA=CS
Gentleman Bandit V4 FA=CS
The Bandit Traverse V5 FA=CS
V6/7? FA=SG
V7/8? FA=SG
The Villain V7 FA=GT
The Villain Direct V9 FA=GT
The Thief V4 FA=GT
The Thief Direct V5 FA=GT/CS
The Crook V3 FA=GT
The Crook Direct V4 FA=GT/CS
the crook traverse
the full crook traverse
the full heist traverse
the full bandit traverse
the full thief traverse
the villain traverse
!?