Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Nor Cal local; KevinJorgeson.com

Check out the bad ass local Nor Cal climber Kevin Jorgeson at;
kevinjorgeson.com

Carlo Traversi.com/Northern California

Check out Nor Cal getting some props from the once local now world wide bad ass boulderer Carlo Traversi;
carlotraversi.com/2010/northern-california

and check out Nor Cal/Sonoma County on his "top 10 climbing areas" ;
http://carlotraversi.com/my-top-10/climbing-areas/

and a Nor Cal/North Coast classic on his "top 10 boulder problems" ;
http://carlotraversi.com/my-top-10/boulder-problems/

Go Carlo!!

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Indian Rock Boulders CRSP

Indian Rock Boulders - Castle Rock 2011


Indian Bouldering Classics;

Indian Crack Boulders:
Indian Crack V0, Indian Face V1, Indian Traverse V5, Inch and 1/4 Crack V1, Static Reach V8 sit or V9 low sit or V10 low low sit, The Clam V4 up or V9 traverse

Indian Boulders:
Hash Rock VB-V2, The Classic V3 or V4 sit, Sharma Arete V9, Santa Cruz Dude Dyno V4, The Backscratcher V3, Right Hand Indian Man V7, Asian Invasion V7

Nature Nazi Boulders:
Nature Nazi Arete V7 or V8 sit, Nature Nazi Traverse V4 or V5/6 low sit, Caunt Power Pull V4/5

Lost Keys:
Lost Keys V4 up or V6 traverse



Blowing Bubbles 5.10a solo!



Andrew - V1 DYNO!



Mike Donovan - Backscratcher V3
(3rd or 4th Ascent!?)





Sean Brady - Backscratcher V3
(4th or 5th Ascent!? - 1st flash!?)



Ryan - Right Hand Indian Man V7



Sean Brady - The Classic V3



For more info and directions get the Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area by Bruce Morris and/or my Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO.

Monday, January 31, 2011

The Backscratcher V3

Teddy on The Backscratcher Traverse
(a new V3 fa below Indian Rocks East face - CRSP)





Benny Kong does The Backscratcher (V3 - second ascent)! VID

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Dead Oak Boulders

Newly developed area in Mendo!
(priv prop so no directions:(







T-dog cleaning the top out of a new line.



TL - Cow Pattie V2 fa.



TL on Oaksterdam V6.





TL - Sudden Oak Death V2r fa!




TL - California Squeeze V2/3 fa!



CS - Oak Traverse V6/7 fa variation.



Live Oak Traverse V7!?



Squaw Rock



1 V? arete/slab left
2 Sunny Slab V0*** slab center
3 V0** slab right
4 V0* slab traverse
5 V? boulder left
6 V? boulder center
7 V? boulder right
8 Lunatip V2/3** sit start on right then traverse left onto slab
9 V? crack? - traverse + up? /stand?
10 V!? steep project - sit or stand!? (needs cleaning)
11 V0/1* right hand arete over rocky crevice or into #12 top out V1**
12 V1* sit start face left of arete on small boulder in crevice
13 V1* low stand start up right into top out over fallen tree
14 Dead Oak Traverse V4** left to right into #13 to finish
15 Dead Oak Face V1*** stand start or V3*** sit #16 or V? direct sit
16 Oaksterdam V5*** stand start direct face left of #15 - V6*** sit
17 V? far left side of Dead Oak Wall over bad landing
18 V? short bulge over fallen tree
19 V? traverse short bulge over fallen tree
20 Sudden Oak Death V2r*** high right hand arete above fallen tree
21 Fern Crack V? fern filled thin crack up left to high arete
22 California Cheez V1/2*** right variation hold into #23 top out
23 California Squeez V2/3*** sit short meatwrap prow/bulge direct
24 Cow Pattie V2** sit/stand high face with plate holds and moss
25 Live Oak Traverse V7? start right of #22 and traverse left past it into the final crux section - or just do the final crux section from the crack for the Doghouse Traverse V6/7**
26 V? crack in center of Live Oak Wall (mossy)
27 V? face on left side of Live Oak Wall (mossy)
28 V? arete on left side of Live Oak Wall (mossy)
29 ?
30 ?


California Squeeze V2/3 fa - YOUTUBE

Thursday, January 6, 2011

"Ultimate Trogdor" V8

"Ultimate Trogdor" V8 is the mega classic low arete sit start to the old classic "Trogdor" (V5) - Columbia Limestone!
1-4-11




"Ultimate Trogdor" V8 - YOUTUBE

Sunday, January 2, 2011

"Static Reach" - low sit start V10/11!? CRSP

"Reach Around" V10/11!? fa?? - the low sit start to "Static Reach" at Indian Rock, CRSP





"Reach Around" V10/11 fa!? YOUTUBE