Monday, April 25, 2016
Sunday, April 10, 2016
Rock Climbing and Bouldering Instructor/Trainer/Coach 25+ years experience
My climbing experience:
Northern California native with ~27 years of climbing and bouldering experience. I started climbing at age 17 in 1989. There were no conveniences such as bouldering pads or local indoor rock gyms back then and there were very few established local climbing areas. From those grassroots I am proud to have discovered and established many new local roped climbing and bouldering areas. My track record includes ascents of; traditional/crack 5.11 fa (first ascent), sport 5.12 fa+flash(first try) and 5.13 fa as well as bouldering V8 fa+flash, V9 fa and V10 plus my specialty of exploring and developing new rocks in uncharted territory with over 100 roped (sport/trad/tr) first ascents and over 1000 boulder problem first ascents. Author of 7 guidebooks for Northern California climbing and bouldering. One of the first ~100 climbing gym route-setters and instructors in the USA in the early 1990's at Class 5 Fitness in San Rafael CA. Previously head route-setter at Vertex Climbing Center and Rockzilla Gym in Northern California. Currently head climbing instructor at Airport Health Club in Santa Rosa CA. I teach climbing technique classes as well as belaying and I teach/lead kids climbing camps, kids or adult ropes courses and movement/obstacle challenge courses.
Over 25 years of experience teaching and guiding friends and clients with ~1000 people from ages 3~73 that I have successfully taught climbing, bouldering, movement and overcoming fear. Some of my students have gone on to achieve world records at big wall climbing and double digit bouldering first ascents but more importantly, hopefully also a better and more fulfilled life, becoming closer to nature and closer to their own natural instincts.
Amazon (Author Page)
YouTube (Climbing/Bouldering Videos)
8A.NU (Profile/Scorecard)
My Climbing Class Ideas:
I teach you what I know best - how to find the local rocks that inspire you, climb them, get down and then get home safe. I teach how to improve mental climbing techniques such as seeing the line of the climb, reading the moves, deciding when to use precise footwork or no footwork and sequencing hand/footholds with rests and breathing. I also teach specialized physical techniques such as heel hooks, drop knees, crack jams, mantles, friction smears and basic climbing specific strength and fitness. I only do a small amount of weight room, hang board or system board training. If the physical training is more vital for your improvement then I will help you along that path.
My main focus is on a synthesis of physical and mental progression as well as simply sharing/teaching you the skills I know so that you have them in your bag of tricks and know when to implement them. I will create a custom set of drills for you to practice alone or with partners so you can progress on your own and at your own pace. First of all I try to help you focus on what type of climbing you'd like to do paired also with what type of climbing best suits your natural skill set and instincts. Then I help you train for it, find it, and do it and then to not just survive at it, but to thrive.
I offer customized indoor or outdoor classes for every aspiring climber or boulderer from age 5 to 155 years young.
Let me help you enjoy all that climbing has to offer!
FOR LESSONS CONTACT ME ANYTIME AT:
summitorplummet@hotmail.com
Ninja Climbing Training Camp;
http://ninjatrainingcamp.blogspot.com
Northern California native with ~27 years of climbing and bouldering experience. I started climbing at age 17 in 1989. There were no conveniences such as bouldering pads or local indoor rock gyms back then and there were very few established local climbing areas. From those grassroots I am proud to have discovered and established many new local roped climbing and bouldering areas. My track record includes ascents of; traditional/crack 5.11 fa (first ascent), sport 5.12 fa+flash(first try) and 5.13 fa as well as bouldering V8 fa+flash, V9 fa and V10 plus my specialty of exploring and developing new rocks in uncharted territory with over 100 roped (sport/trad/tr) first ascents and over 1000 boulder problem first ascents. Author of 7 guidebooks for Northern California climbing and bouldering. One of the first ~100 climbing gym route-setters and instructors in the USA in the early 1990's at Class 5 Fitness in San Rafael CA. Previously head route-setter at Vertex Climbing Center and Rockzilla Gym in Northern California. Currently head climbing instructor at Airport Health Club in Santa Rosa CA. I teach climbing technique classes as well as belaying and I teach/lead kids climbing camps, kids or adult ropes courses and movement/obstacle challenge courses.
Over 25 years of experience teaching and guiding friends and clients with ~1000 people from ages 3~73 that I have successfully taught climbing, bouldering, movement and overcoming fear. Some of my students have gone on to achieve world records at big wall climbing and double digit bouldering first ascents but more importantly, hopefully also a better and more fulfilled life, becoming closer to nature and closer to their own natural instincts.
Amazon (Author Page)
YouTube (Climbing/Bouldering Videos)
8A.NU (Profile/Scorecard)
My Climbing Class Ideas:
I teach you what I know best - how to find the local rocks that inspire you, climb them, get down and then get home safe. I teach how to improve mental climbing techniques such as seeing the line of the climb, reading the moves, deciding when to use precise footwork or no footwork and sequencing hand/footholds with rests and breathing. I also teach specialized physical techniques such as heel hooks, drop knees, crack jams, mantles, friction smears and basic climbing specific strength and fitness. I only do a small amount of weight room, hang board or system board training. If the physical training is more vital for your improvement then I will help you along that path.
My main focus is on a synthesis of physical and mental progression as well as simply sharing/teaching you the skills I know so that you have them in your bag of tricks and know when to implement them. I will create a custom set of drills for you to practice alone or with partners so you can progress on your own and at your own pace. First of all I try to help you focus on what type of climbing you'd like to do paired also with what type of climbing best suits your natural skill set and instincts. Then I help you train for it, find it, and do it and then to not just survive at it, but to thrive.
I offer customized indoor or outdoor classes for every aspiring climber or boulderer from age 5 to 155 years young.
Let me help you enjoy all that climbing has to offer!
FOR LESSONS CONTACT ME ANYTIME AT:
summitorplummet@hotmail.com
Ninja Climbing Training Camp;
http://ninjatrainingcamp.blogspot.com
Saturday, March 19, 2016
West Sonoma County ~topo secret/private~ Bouldering
This is a list of boulder problems at secret areas and not a list of directions to those areas. This list is for locals to share info and to document the history. All of these areas have constantly changing access issues and require word of mouth from locals for directions. Almost all of the publicly accessible bouldering areas can be found in the many guidebooks and online climbing databases but directions to these secret areas must never be publicized out of respect for landowners and locals. Only ~50% of the bouldering areas in Sonoma County are in guidebooks, the rest and a lot of the best have access issues or at least access concerns and directions to all of those precious areas have to be kept topo secret :)
~~500 topo secret boulder problems VB-V13 total !
-Not complete ~ ongoing updates ~ mostly only classics and main lines listed:
WEST SONOMA COUNTY
Bohemian Falls {bad access?}
V0R*** FA:TL
V1R** FA:TL
V2R*** FA:TL
Bathtub Arete V3**** FA:TL
Bathtub Face V4** FA:TL
Boho
Boho Face V6***** FA:RT
Boho Arete V6*** FA:RT
Broken Heart V8*** FA:CS
Boho Traverse V3** FA:CS
Boho Sit V6*** FA:RT
V6** FA:SB
Upper Boho
Bohemian Crapsody V6** left arete sit pull around left onto slab top out FA:CS
Bohemian Rhapsody V5*** left arete direct into high right top out. FA:CS
New Bohemian V1** right arete sit V0/1** stand FA:CS
V!? center face!?
V0R*** FA:TL
V1R** FA:TL
V2R*** FA:TL
Bathtub Arete V3**** FA:TL
Bathtub Face V4** FA:TL
Boho
Boho Face V6***** FA:RT
Boho Arete V6*** FA:RT
Broken Heart V8*** FA:CS
Boho Traverse V3** FA:CS
Boho Sit V6*** FA:RT
V6** FA:SB
Upper Boho
Bohemian Crapsody V6** left arete sit pull around left onto slab top out FA:CS
Bohemian Rhapsody V5*** left arete direct into high right top out. FA:CS
New Bohemian V1** right arete sit V0/1** stand FA:CS
V!? center face!?
Cascade
Cascade Face V1*** FA:AS
Cascade Face Direct V2*** FA:AS
Cascade Traverse V4*** FA:CS
Dutch Bill
Cave Spider V4***** FA:TL
Cave Spider Direct V5***** FA:TL
Dutch Belly V7*** or V8***** FA:RT/TT
Dutch Rudder V6*** FA:AC
Long Bottom V4*** FA:TL
Banana Thug V5*** FA:TL
Riding The Rails V6** FA:TL
Fox Trot V6** FA:CS
Cave Dutchie V6** FA:CS
Buddhas Underbelly V9*** FA:SB
Pass The Dutchie V10**** FA:GT
Flying Dutchman V11*** FA:GT
Cascade Face V1*** FA:AS
Cascade Face Direct V2*** FA:AS
Cascade Traverse V4*** FA:CS
Dutch Bill
Cave Spider V4***** FA:TL
Cave Spider Direct V5***** FA:TL
Dutch Belly V7*** or V8***** FA:RT/TT
Dutch Rudder V6*** FA:AC
Long Bottom V4*** FA:TL
Banana Thug V5*** FA:TL
Riding The Rails V6** FA:TL
Fox Trot V6** FA:CS
Cave Dutchie V6** FA:CS
Buddhas Underbelly V9*** FA:SB
Pass The Dutchie V10**** FA:GT
Flying Dutchman V11*** FA:GT
Lower Dutch Bill
V2** FA:CS
V4*** FA:CS
Camp Meeker {bad access?}
V7*** FA:RT
V8*** FA:RT
V3*** FA:RT
V3*** FA:AS
V1*** FA:BS
{Odessas Boulder}
Transcendence V1 sit start far right FA:NEB
Transcendence Traverse V3 low left sit or Transcendence Direct V4 left sit FA:CS
The Odyssey V6 low left arete sit start in creek or V5 left mid jug start FA:CS
Odin V2 low right sit or Odin Direct V5 low left sit direct up face FA:CS
V2** FA:CS
V4*** FA:CS
Camp Meeker {bad access?}
V7*** FA:RT
V8*** FA:RT
V3*** FA:RT
V3*** FA:AS
V1*** FA:BS
{Odessas Boulder}
Transcendence V1 sit start far right FA:NEB
Transcendence Traverse V3 low left sit or Transcendence Direct V4 left sit FA:CS
The Odyssey V6 low left arete sit start in creek or V5 left mid jug start FA:CS
Odin V2 low right sit or Odin Direct V5 low left sit direct up face FA:CS
Wild Turkey
Wild Turkey V7***** FA:RT
Freestone Boulder
Bum Rush V2** low stand FA:RA
Bum Rush Sit V4** low sit FA:CS
Freemantle V5/6** sit FA:CS
Freemason V6/7/8**!?
Coleman Valley
V0** FA:CS
V2** FA:CS
V4** FA:CB/RS
Willow Creek
V0** FA:CS
V4** FA:CS
Sweet Boulder
V0-V6**** FA:TL/CS/? + Sweet Boulder Traverse V9** FA:GT
Wild Turkey V7***** FA:RT
Freestone Boulder
Bum Rush V2** low stand FA:RA
Bum Rush Sit V4** low sit FA:CS
Freemantle V5/6** sit FA:CS
Freemason V6/7/8**!?
Coleman Valley
V0** FA:CS
V2** FA:CS
V4** FA:CB/RS
Willow Creek
V0** FA:CS
V4** FA:CS
NORTHWEST CENTRAL SONOMA COUNTY
V0-V6**** FA:TL/CS/? + Sweet Boulder Traverse V9** FA:GT
Sweet Boulders CLOSED {bad access?}
Sweet Crack V0R***** FA:CS/SB/RE/etc.. + 50~ VB-V8 RIP
Sweet Crack V0R***** FA:CS/SB/RE/etc.. + 50~ VB-V8 RIP
Westside Rocks {bad access?}
V****!!?? FA:JM,MN,SC
V****!!?? FA:JM,MN,SC
NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
The Garage
V1-V3*** FA:CS/RP
V1-V3*** FA:CS/RP
Bei
V0-V4*** FA:E?
The Matrix Boulders {bad access?}
Christal Crack V0** FA:CS
Christal Traverse V1* FA:CS
V1 FA:JK
V2 FA:JK
Fiber Optics V2*** FA:JK
Fiber Optics Traverse V3** FA:CS
V3**** FA:JK
Akilleaze V5*** FA:JK
Achilles Arete VB*** FA:CS
The Music Box
!?
V0-V4*** FA:E?
The Matrix Boulders {bad access?}
Christal Crack V0** FA:CS
Christal Traverse V1* FA:CS
V1 FA:JK
V2 FA:JK
Fiber Optics V2*** FA:JK
Fiber Optics Traverse V3** FA:CS
V3**** FA:JK
Akilleaze V5*** FA:JK
Achilles Arete VB*** FA:CS
!?
Headstash
Headstash V2*** FA:KA
Don't Believe The Hype V7*** FA:RE
V6*** FA:KA
V5** FA:KA
V4** FA:KA
Headstash V2*** FA:KA
Don't Believe The Hype V7*** FA:RE
V6*** FA:KA
V5** FA:KA
V4** FA:KA
Kenny's Secret Spot {bad access?}
V4***** FA:KA
V5**** FA:?
V!?
V4***** FA:KA
V5**** FA:?
V!?
The Stronghold
Eat Schist V6**** FA:CS
Eat Schist Direct V6**** FA:CS
Stronghold Slab V0*** FA:CS/RE
Last Stand V7** FA:CS
Quickening V6*** FA:CS
Quickness V5**** FA:CS/RE
Quicker V5** FA:CS
Emerald Triangle
Emerald Triangle V4*** FA:CS
Emerald Triangle traverse V5** FA:CS
V1*** FA:CS
Snaggletooth Camel Boulders {bad access?}
Saucy V6*** FA:CS
Spicy V5*** FA:CM
Scary V4*** FA:CS
Stripe V6***** FA:CS
Flower Power V6*** FA:SB
V6R*** FA:RT
Snaggletooth Camel V1** FA:RE
Redwoods and Rain V4*** FA:RE
Log Jam V3*** FA:CS
Camel Toe V5**** FA:RE
Camel Toe Sit V8***** FA:CB
Fight The Power V7*** FA:CS
Camel Jockey V1** FA:CS
V5*** FA:RE
V4** FA:RE
V3*** FA:RE
V2*** FA:RE
V1*** FA:RE
V0** FA:RE
V0** FA:CS
V0*** FA:PB
Slither/Stigmata
Frog Face V3*** FA:CS
V6*** (V? unrepeated since hold broke) FA:MP
Middle Man V6**** FA:RT
Slither V7***** FA:CS
Hand Of Perseus V12***** FA:CT
Stigmata V13***** (was V11 but crux hold broke now V13!?) FA(V11): KJ / FA(V13): GT
Adrift V13***** FA:GT
V7*** or V10** FA(V7):SB / FA(V10):GT
V4*** FA:RE?
V6** FA:RT?
Area 51 {bad access?}
V2** FA: RE
ET V4***** FA:CS
Close Encounters V5***** FA:RE
Communion V8** FA:CS
Alien Crank Fiend V3*** FA:CS
Crank Fiend Traverse V4** FA:CS
Crank Fiend Dyno V4*** FA:CS or direct V5** FA:CB
Area 51 Traverse V4** FA:CS
Black Bart Boulders {bad access?}
Black Bart Arete V0R* FA:CS
Black Bart Crack V0**** FA:CS/RE
Black Bart Slab V0** FA:KA
Battleship V6**** FA: KA
Shipwreck V6**** FA:KA/RB/CS/TL
Walk The Plank V6*** FA: CS
Athletes Foot V2*** FA:KA
Black Bart Traverse V3**** FA:CS
Black Bart Face V1*** FA:RE/CS
Crazy Train V5*** FA:SB
Soul Train V8*** FA:KA/CS
Hold Up V4*** FA:CS
Hijacked V7**** FA:RE
V9*** FA:RB?
V3R*** FA:KA
V2R** FA:CS
V1R* FA:KA
Phantom Boulder
V6*** FA:CS (HOLD BROKE - new project!?)
V5*** FA:CB
V4*** FA:RE
FA: V4*** FA:CS
Phantom Traverse V5** FA:CS
Eat Schist V6**** FA:CS
Eat Schist Direct V6**** FA:CS
Stronghold Slab V0*** FA:CS/RE
Last Stand V7** FA:CS
Quickening V6*** FA:CS
Quickness V5**** FA:CS/RE
Quicker V5** FA:CS
Emerald Triangle
Emerald Triangle V4*** FA:CS
Emerald Triangle traverse V5** FA:CS
V1*** FA:CS
Snaggletooth Camel Boulders {bad access?}
Saucy V6*** FA:CS
Spicy V5*** FA:CM
Scary V4*** FA:CS
Stripe V6***** FA:CS
Flower Power V6*** FA:SB
V6R*** FA:RT
Snaggletooth Camel V1** FA:RE
Redwoods and Rain V4*** FA:RE
Log Jam V3*** FA:CS
Camel Toe V5**** FA:RE
Camel Toe Sit V8***** FA:CB
Fight The Power V7*** FA:CS
Camel Jockey V1** FA:CS
V5*** FA:RE
V4** FA:RE
V3*** FA:RE
V2*** FA:RE
V1*** FA:RE
V0** FA:RE
V0** FA:CS
V0*** FA:PB
Slither/Stigmata
Frog Face V3*** FA:CS
V6*** (V? unrepeated since hold broke) FA:MP
Middle Man V6**** FA:RT
Slither V7***** FA:CS
Hand Of Perseus V12***** FA:CT
Stigmata V13***** (was V11 but crux hold broke now V13!?) FA(V11): KJ / FA(V13): GT
Adrift V13***** FA:GT
V7*** or V10** FA(V7):SB / FA(V10):GT
V4*** FA:RE?
V6** FA:RT?
Area 51 {bad access?}
V2** FA: RE
ET V4***** FA:CS
Close Encounters V5***** FA:RE
Communion V8** FA:CS
Alien Crank Fiend V3*** FA:CS
Crank Fiend Traverse V4** FA:CS
Crank Fiend Dyno V4*** FA:CS or direct V5** FA:CB
Area 51 Traverse V4** FA:CS
Black Bart Boulders {bad access?}
Black Bart Arete V0R* FA:CS
Black Bart Crack V0**** FA:CS/RE
Black Bart Slab V0** FA:KA
Battleship V6**** FA: KA
Shipwreck V6**** FA:KA/RB/CS/TL
Walk The Plank V6*** FA: CS
Athletes Foot V2*** FA:KA
Black Bart Traverse V3**** FA:CS
Black Bart Face V1*** FA:RE/CS
Crazy Train V5*** FA:SB
Soul Train V8*** FA:KA/CS
Hold Up V4*** FA:CS
Hijacked V7**** FA:RE
V9*** FA:RB?
V3R*** FA:KA
V2R** FA:CS
V1R* FA:KA
Phantom Boulder
V6*** FA:CS (HOLD BROKE - new project!?)
V5*** FA:CB
V4*** FA:RE
FA: V4*** FA:CS
Phantom Traverse V5** FA:CS
Roadside Busted {bad access?}
5.12D*** TR FA:MN (V7*** (drop off) FA:GT)
Busted {bad access?}
V2*** FA:CS (Overgrown)
Busted 5.9****!? FA:!?
Calypso V7****!? FA:!?
+!!??:)
Panorama {bad access?}
Fern Face V0* FA:CS
Fern Traverse V1** FA:CS
Fern Bern V4** FA:CS
Leave it to Weaver V1** FA:JK
Cricket Tempo V1** FA:JK
Fruit of the Loom V0** or direct V1** FA:CS
Fruits of Labor V1*** or direct V2*** FA:JK,CS
Redman V5*** FA:JK
Medicine Man V6**** FA:JK
Chief Raincloud V5***** FA:JK
Raindance V5**** FA:JK
Sundance V4*** FA:JK
Sundance Traverse V4** FA:CS
Raincloud Traverse V6*** FA:CS
+*****!!??
The Old Preserve {bad access?}
V0-V4*** FA:RE/CS
FAR WEST SONOMA COUNTY
The Preserve {bad access?}
The Oracle V4***** FA:JK
Oracle Traverse V6** FA:CS
Lumberjacked V5***** FA:JK
One Fell Swoop V3**** FA:ZA
Babe V2*** FA:AF
Invisible Foot V7*** FA:JK
Brain Scar V3**** FA:JK
Domatrix V3*** FA:JK
Morla The Ancient One V3R**** FA:TL
Invite Only V4R*** FA:ZA
5.12D*** TR FA:MN (V7*** (drop off) FA:GT)
Busted {bad access?}
V2*** FA:CS (Overgrown)
Busted 5.9****!? FA:!?
Calypso V7****!? FA:!?
+!!??:)
Panorama {bad access?}
Fern Face V0* FA:CS
Fern Traverse V1** FA:CS
Fern Bern V4** FA:CS
Leave it to Weaver V1** FA:JK
Cricket Tempo V1** FA:JK
Fruit of the Loom V0** or direct V1** FA:CS
Fruits of Labor V1*** or direct V2*** FA:JK,CS
Redman V5*** FA:JK
Medicine Man V6**** FA:JK
Chief Raincloud V5***** FA:JK
Raindance V5**** FA:JK
Sundance V4*** FA:JK
Sundance Traverse V4** FA:CS
Raincloud Traverse V6*** FA:CS
+*****!!??
The Old Preserve {bad access?}
V0-V4*** FA:RE/CS
FAR WEST SONOMA COUNTY
The Preserve {bad access?}
The Oracle V4***** FA:JK
Oracle Traverse V6** FA:CS
Lumberjacked V5***** FA:JK
One Fell Swoop V3**** FA:ZA
Babe V2*** FA:AF
Invisible Foot V7*** FA:JK
Brain Scar V3**** FA:JK
Domatrix V3*** FA:JK
Morla The Ancient One V3R**** FA:TL
Invite Only V4R*** FA:ZA
FAR NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Moonrise {bad access?}
New Moon V11***** FA:KJ
Full Moon V11*** FA:RE
Kick Me V10**** FA:MN
V10*** FA:RE
V10*** FA:GT
V10**** FA:CT
V9*** FA:CB
Dragon Moon V8**** FA:CS
Bad Moon Rising V5**** sit - or stand start V3R**** FA:CS
Moonrise V0R***** FA:CS/RE
Green Rip V4**** FA:CS
Spider Man V6**** FA:CS
Tore Back V7**** FA:RE
V6*** FA:RE
Excalibur {bad access?}
Excalibur V4***** FA:CS
Merlin V5**** FA:CS
Squeeze Me Macaroni V6*** FA:MN
Reamnesia V4** FA:CS
Moonrise {bad access?}
New Moon V11***** FA:KJ
Full Moon V11*** FA:RE
Kick Me V10**** FA:MN
V10*** FA:RE
V10*** FA:GT
V10**** FA:CT
V9*** FA:CB
Dragon Moon V8**** FA:CS
Bad Moon Rising V5**** sit - or stand start V3R**** FA:CS
Moonrise V0R***** FA:CS/RE
Green Rip V4**** FA:CS
Spider Man V6**** FA:CS
Tore Back V7**** FA:RE
V6*** FA:RE
Excalibur {bad access?}
Excalibur V4***** FA:CS
Merlin V5**** FA:CS
Squeeze Me Macaroni V6*** FA:MN
Reamnesia V4** FA:CS
King Ridge Boulders {bad access?}
Scepter V0*** FA:CS/JK
Jester V2*** FA:CS/JK
King Salamander V4*** FA:CS/JK
FAR FAR NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Skaggs Crags {bad access?}
5.9**** FA:CS
V3/4** FA:CS
Bonnies Boulder
V0-V5**** FA:BH
Deliverance {bad access?}
Deliverance V5**** FA:RE?
Northwest Lake Sonoma/Shady Boulders {bad access?}
!?
Scepter V0*** FA:CS/JK
Jester V2*** FA:CS/JK
King Salamander V4*** FA:CS/JK
FAR FAR NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Skaggs Crags {bad access?}
5.9**** FA:CS
V3/4** FA:CS
Bonnies Boulder
V0-V5**** FA:BH
Deliverance {bad access?}
Deliverance V5**** FA:RE?
Northwest Lake Sonoma/Shady Boulders {bad access?}
!?
SOUTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Valley Ford Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V3** FA:AS
Two Rocks {bad access?}
!? FA:RT
Bodega Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V5*** FA:JD
Bodega Bay Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V4** FA:?
VB-V3** FA:AS
Two Rocks {bad access?}
!? FA:RT
Bodega Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V5*** FA:JD
Bodega Bay Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V4** FA:?
Chileno Valley {bad access?}
!?
Saturday, February 27, 2016
My Best First Ascents - Bouldering (top 50 of ~1000+)
*=ok **=good ***=very good ****=great/area classic! *****=best/world classic!!
Slither V7***** roof to high V5 face top out -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Sabertooth V7***** overhanging arete -- sandstone - Secrets
Dragon Moon V8***** overhanging face -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Summit Fever V8***** overhanging pocket face start to original classic -- volcanic - Clark Canyon
Sasquatch V4***** overhanging wave/scoop -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Vise Grip V4***** vertical pinch face -- sandstone - Salt Point
Chris' Ramp V8**** overhanging diagonal rail traverse -- granite - Pump Rock
Bump and Grind V9**** overhanging bulge face (unrepeated!?) -- volcanic - Clark Canyon
Stripe V6**** overhanging diagonal offset seam -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Super Abalone V8**** overhanging toe and heel hook sloper lip traverse -- schist - Super Slab
Bridge Traverse V4**** 75ft cave traverse -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Between a Rock and a Hard Place V6**** overhanging arete -- sandstone - Salt Point
Slapfight V8**** mega sloper left arete -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Fish Lips V3**** meal classic center overhang -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
High Times V0R/X**** highball/solo face -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
The Matrix V5**** mega classic steep center line -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Vortex V3R/DWS**** diagonal traverse rail over Russian River! -- chert? - Mendo
Synergy V5**** compression sit to classic V3 high face -- schist - Mendo
The Wave Traverse V4**** left to right/uphill low traverse -- sandstone - Secrets
Aqua Velva V4**** classic steep cave plumb line -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Swinger V6**** classic steep cave direct line -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Talon V6**** overhanging face -- volcanic - Mt Lassen
Bloody Talon V7*** overhanging face direct -- volcanic - Mt Lassen
Supercat V7*** overhanging face -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Nutcracker V2*** overhanging crack -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
The Specialist V5*** overhang -- schist - Goat Rock
Trailblazer Arete V3*** trailside arete -- volcanic - Sugarloaf Ridge
Resolution Arete V3*** highball arete -- volcanic - Sugarloaf Ridge
Fat Man Traverse V4*** face traverse -- granite - Tahoe
Killer Green Traverse V8*** cave traverse -- volcanic - {Topo Secret}
Living La Vida Smoka V9*** link up traverse -- sandstone - Fort Ross
Slither V7***** roof to high V5 face top out -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Sabertooth V7***** overhanging arete -- sandstone - Secrets
Hellspawn V7***** compression sit into "Hell Awaits" V4**** -- basalt - Putah Creek
Summit Fever V8***** overhanging pocket face start to original classic -- volcanic - Clark Canyon
Sasquatch V4***** overhanging wave/scoop -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Vise Grip V4***** vertical pinch face -- sandstone - Salt Point
Chris' Ramp V8**** overhanging diagonal rail traverse -- granite - Pump Rock
Bump and Grind V9**** overhanging bulge face (unrepeated!?) -- volcanic - Clark Canyon
Stripe V6**** overhanging diagonal offset seam -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Super Abalone V8**** overhanging toe and heel hook sloper lip traverse -- schist - Super Slab
Bridge Traverse V4**** 75ft cave traverse -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Trinity Traverse V3**** 75ft diagonal uphill face traverse -- limestone - Trinity Aretes
Sendocino V3**** sit into slab classic -- greenstone - Mendo
Sendocino Arete V4**** same sit high right arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Sendocino Direct V6**** same sit high direct arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Christal Method V4**** classic high face/arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Electric Eel V4**** overhang slot pocket face -- greenstone - Mendo
Braveheart V1R**** (or 5.10** lead) highball face -- greenstone - Mendo
Sendocino Arete V4**** same sit high right arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Sendocino Direct V6**** same sit high direct arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Christal Method V4**** classic high face/arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Electric Eel V4**** overhang slot pocket face -- greenstone - Mendo
Braveheart V1R**** (or 5.10** lead) highball face -- greenstone - Mendo
Can of Whoop Ass V5**** sit to classic "Bomb Ass Dookie" V4**** -- greenstone - Mendo
Brass Monkey V3**** semi high arete -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
Mother Nature V3R**** highball arete -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)Brass Monkey V3**** semi high arete -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
Between a Rock and a Hard Place V6**** overhanging arete -- sandstone - Salt Point
Slapfight V8**** mega sloper left arete -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Fish Lips V3**** meal classic center overhang -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
High Times V0R/X**** highball/solo face -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
The Matrix V5**** mega classic steep center line -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Vortex V3R/DWS**** diagonal traverse rail over Russian River! -- chert? - Mendo
Synergy V5**** compression sit to classic V3 high face -- schist - Mendo
The Wave Traverse V4**** left to right/uphill low traverse -- sandstone - Secrets
Aqua Velva V4**** classic steep cave plumb line -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Swinger V6**** classic steep cave direct line -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Talon V6**** overhanging face -- volcanic - Mt Lassen
Bloody Talon V7*** overhanging face direct -- volcanic - Mt Lassen
Supercat V7*** overhanging face -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Nutcracker V2*** overhanging crack -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
The Specialist V5*** overhang -- schist - Goat Rock
Trailblazer Arete V3*** trailside arete -- volcanic - Sugarloaf Ridge
Resolution Arete V3*** highball arete -- volcanic - Sugarloaf Ridge
Fat Man Traverse V4*** face traverse -- granite - Tahoe
Killer Green Traverse V8*** cave traverse -- volcanic - {Topo Secret}
The Stoner Traverse V6*** left to right/uphill steep pocket traverse -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Cherry Bomb V4*** sit into fun V3 stand start -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Fuck Traverse V6*** traverse into the highball classic V4R! -- schist - Mendo
Slapstick V9*** mega sloper left arete link into V5 top out -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Renegades of Funk V9** link up traverse -- schist - Super Slab
Great White Traverse V8** sit diagonal crack traverse to V0 crack -- greenstone - Mickeys Beach
Hammerhead Traverse V7** jug rail to direct crux into V0 crack -- greenstone - Mickeys Beach
Orange Cave V9* - V7*** cave to detached rock to V0* crack link up -- sandstone - Secrets
Cherry Bomb V4*** sit into fun V3 stand start -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Fuck Traverse V6*** traverse into the highball classic V4R! -- schist - Mendo
Slapstick V9*** mega sloper left arete link into V5 top out -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Renegades of Funk V9** link up traverse -- schist - Super Slab
Great White Traverse V8** sit diagonal crack traverse to V0 crack -- greenstone - Mickeys Beach
Hammerhead Traverse V7** jug rail to direct crux into V0 crack -- greenstone - Mickeys Beach
Orange Cave V9* - V7*** cave to detached rock to V0* crack link up -- sandstone - Secrets
:)
My Best First Ascents - Roped (top 55 of ~100+ sport, trad, tr)
Judge Dredd 5.13b - sport-lead - Sea Crag
Troubled Water 5.13a - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Dry Line 5.12d - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Toll Taker 5.12c - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
The Bird Is The Werd 5.12c - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Pinch Hitter 5.12b/c - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Joint Effort 5.12b - sport-lead - Untamed Rocks
Don't Call Me Squaw 5.12b - sport-lead - Frog Woman Rock (aka Squaw Rock)
Witch Doctor 5.12b - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Dark Christal 5.12b - tr - Dos Rios
Borg 5.12a/b - solo+lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Firewater 5.12a - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Hard To Swallow 5.12a - sport-lead - Dos Rios
Climestone Cowboy 5.12a - sport-lead - Rhinecastle
Troubled Water 5.13a - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Dry Line 5.12d - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Toll Taker 5.12c - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
The Bird Is The Werd 5.12c - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Pinch Hitter 5.12b/c - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Joint Effort 5.12b - sport-lead - Untamed Rocks
Don't Call Me Squaw 5.12b - sport-lead - Frog Woman Rock (aka Squaw Rock)
Witch Doctor 5.12b - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Dark Christal 5.12b - tr - Dos Rios
Borg 5.12a/b - solo+lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Firewater 5.12a - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Hard To Swallow 5.12a - sport-lead - Dos Rios
Climestone Cowboy 5.12a - sport-lead - Rhinecastle
Resurrection 5.12a - sport-lead - Frog Woman Rock (aka Squaw Rock)
On A Wing And A Prayer 5.12a - sport-lead - Untamed Rocks
Fuck Face 5.12a/V4 - tr/boulder - {Low Gap - Topo Secret}
Sucka Fish 5.12a - sport-lead - Sea Crag
Liquid Fire 5.12a - sport-lead - Dos Rios
Ancient Aliens 5.11d/12a - sport-lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
On A Wing And A Prayer 5.12a - sport-lead - Untamed Rocks
Fuck Face 5.12a/V4 - tr/boulder - {Low Gap - Topo Secret}
Sucka Fish 5.12a - sport-lead - Sea Crag
Liquid Fire 5.12a - sport-lead - Dos Rios
Ancient Aliens 5.11d/12a - sport-lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Burning Spear 5.11d - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Snakecharmer 5.11 - trad-lead - Dos Rios
Synchronicity 5.11 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
P.E. 5.11 - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Off The Wall 5.11 - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Bearclaw 5.11 - sport-lead - The Bear/Mt St Helena
Sandy Squirrel 5.11 - sport-lead - Secrets
Bar Fight 5.10/11 - sport-lead - The Bar
Bar Fly 5.10/11 - sport-lead - The Bar
The Cup Holder (aka The Beer Holder) 5.10/11 - tr - Dos Rios
Calamari 5.10/11 - sport-lead - Twin Coves
Sunrise 5.10/11 - tr - Sunrise Rocks/Sugarloaf
Porn Star 5.10/11 - sport-lead - Shredding
Black Hole Sun 5.10 - sport-lead - The Bear/Mt St Helena
Wake And Bake 5.10 - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Blue Heron 5.10 - sport-lead - Twin Coves
Sea Snake 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Lost At Sea 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Free Willy 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Conch Crack 5.10 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Rock Candy 5.10 - sport-lead - Shredding
Skaliwag 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Alien 5.10 - sport-lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Snakecharmer 5.11 - trad-lead - Dos Rios
Synchronicity 5.11 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
P.E. 5.11 - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Off The Wall 5.11 - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Bearclaw 5.11 - sport-lead - The Bear/Mt St Helena
Sandy Squirrel 5.11 - sport-lead - Secrets
Sandy Rails 5.11 - tr - The Playground/Salt Point
The Nautilus 5.11 - sport-lead - The Playground/Salt PointBar Fight 5.10/11 - sport-lead - The Bar
Bar Fly 5.10/11 - sport-lead - The Bar
The Cup Holder (aka The Beer Holder) 5.10/11 - tr - Dos Rios
Calamari 5.10/11 - sport-lead - Twin Coves
Sunrise 5.10/11 - tr - Sunrise Rocks/Sugarloaf
Porn Star 5.10/11 - sport-lead - Shredding
Black Hole Sun 5.10 - sport-lead - The Bear/Mt St Helena
Wake And Bake 5.10 - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Blue Heron 5.10 - sport-lead - Twin Coves
Sea Snake 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Lost At Sea 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Free Willy 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Conch Crack 5.10 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Rock Candy 5.10 - sport-lead - Shredding
Skaliwag 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Alien 5.10 - sport-lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Bam Bam 5.9/10 - tr - Rhinecastle
Ewok 5.9/10 - sport-lead - {Topo Secret}
Jack of all Trades 5.9 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Lichen It 5.9 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
Dreamland 5.9 - trad-lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Kola 5.9 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
Horseshoe Crack 5.9 - trad-lead - Secrets
Horseshoe Point 5.9 - sport-lead - Secrets
Log Jam 5.8/9 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
The Black Pearl 5.8 - tr - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
+over 1000 bouldering first ascents.
:)
Ewok 5.9/10 - sport-lead - {Topo Secret}
Jack of all Trades 5.9 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Lichen It 5.9 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
Dreamland 5.9 - trad-lead - {Area 52 - Topo Secret}
Kola 5.9 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
Horseshoe Crack 5.9 - trad-lead - Secrets
Horseshoe Point 5.9 - sport-lead - Secrets
Log Jam 5.8/9 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
The Black Pearl 5.8 - tr - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
~50 more 3rd/4th class-5.6/7ish FA.
+over 1000 bouldering first ascents.
:)
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS 2015/16
Sonoma Coast Crags TITANIUM REBOLT {Sea Crag and Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Super THANKS to Jim Thornburg et al.. !! :)
Sugarloaf Ridge Park ~75 new problems/200+ total! {Mayacama Mountains - Sonoma County}
About 50 new boulder problems found, cleaned and climbed in summer/fall/winter of 2015/16 in the lush Sonoma Creek Canyon off of Canyon Trail and out 25 new boulder problems at the awesome new/old Sunrise Rocks as well as a few more at a few other cool spots around the beautiful park. My friends and I established about 75 new boulder problems total from VB to V7/8 and found a lot of harder projects for the future.
FA's: DW, CS, GR, AC, GZ, OG, RT, LB, A?
"Grand Jury" 5.14a {Sea Crag - Sonoma Coast}
The hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area and CA!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth.
"El Sabroso" 5.13c {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Tied with it's neighbor "Jury Duty" and topo-secret "Yoda Direct" for second hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth.
"Stigmata" V13 (was V11 - hold broke ~2015) {topo-secret}
Tied with G's 2 other Sonoma County V13's (the neighboring "Adrift" and the Sonoma Coasts hardest problem/test-piece "High Tide Low Tide") for hardest boulder problem(s) in Sonoma County and some of the hardest in the Bay Area!
FA - original V11: Kevin Jorgeson / FA - new V13: Giovanni "G" Traversi
"High Tide Low Tide" V13 {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Roof to arete/prow bulge face!
FA: Giovanni "G" Traversi
"Biddles Platinum" V4 stand V5 sit and "Biddles Steel" V5 stand and "Blue Steel" V7 sit {Biddles - Castle Rock}
The classic test-pieces on the main face of Biddles Tower at the new-ish Biddles area south of CRSP.
Biddles Platinum V4 stand FA: Clay Breitweiser and V5 sit FA: Chris Summit / Biddles Steel V5 stand FA - Clay Breitweiser and Blue Steel V7 sit FA: Mike Donovan
"Bushwhacker Roof" V8 and "Bushwhacker Roof Direct" V9 {Indian Joe Caves - Sunol}
Mike D sparks new bouldering stoke at an old Bay Area top rope zone!
FA's: Mike Donovan
"Aloha Patrol" 5.11 (5.11b start) - zone 3 solo! {Table Rock - Napa County}
FSA (First Solo Ascent): Damon "Nomad" Monjure
The Cascade Boulders {Berkeley - East Bay}
Newly found and established fun little bouldering spot in the rocky and scenic Berkeley hills.
FA's: Garrett "G-Raw" Rawlins
____________________________________________________
*Random Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS prior to ~2015:
Kimball Canyon, Black Tower, Wappo, Table etc.. {Mt St Helena - Napa County}
Many new climbs at many amazing new and "new-ish" areas with many old/new routes put up all over the Mt St Helena/Table Rock/Palisades area with more potential still up there! ~5.6-5.12+!?
FA's: Jerry Dodrill, Darren Wiemeyer, Sourigno Outsama, Tim Terry, Dave Stallard, Jim Thornburg, Aaron Rough, ?? etc..
Biddles Boulders + many more new spots! {Skyline - Castle Rock}
The awesome new Biddles area and many other new sandstone bouldering areas similar to Castle Rock discovered and many new classics established in recent years by visionary first ascent pioneer Clay Breitweiser and a few other inspired locals in the Castle Rock/Skyline zone!
FA's: Clay Breitweiser, Mike Donovan, Joe Huras, Gustav Zacharias, Daniel Miller, Chris Zenardi, Kalen Glenn, CS, ??
The Bar and "Bat Karma" 5.13a {Mammoth Bar/Auburn Limestone Quarry - Auburn}
New and old lead and TR climbs brought back to life and some new first ascents and more potential at The Bar on the Middle Fork of the American River at Mammoth Bar Park ~5.8-5.12!? At the nearby Auburn Limestone Quarry one of the best lines finally got established, "Bat Karma" 5.13a FA Jim Thornburg is the single most newsworthy hard new first ascent route at The Limestone Quarry.
FA - Quarry: Jim Thornburg / FA - The Bar: CS + ??
KcKee Park Boulders and Three Rocks {Potter Valley - Mendocino County}
Old bouldering area brought back to life with many new classic problems and potential for more! Also some DWS / Deep Water Solo mixed with "shallow water solo" - R rated highballs!
FA's: CS, RT, JA, AC, SR
"Ghost Dance" V11r and Twin Peaks DWS! {Untamed Rocks - Mendocino County}
Highball arete/prow right off the hwy/US101!
FA - V11r: Giovanni "G" Traversi / FA - DWS: Steven Wheeler (V0/1-V4/5.11+!?) + CS (VB/V0)
"Swallow Crack" 5.10 + new start to Green/Black Slab {Swallow Rock - Mendocino County}
First ascent - Mendo mega classic TR splitter dihedral/corner crack or gear swallowing trad lead!
FA's + 2nd ascents/recleaning/rebirthing: CS, Matt Suddock, John Gruey, Covelo Crew etc..!?
The Sweet Boulder {topo-secret}
Since the neighboring and amazing Sweet Boulders have been closed :( due to a house being built next to them this fun overlooked old boulder was brought to life by awesome inspired local first ascentionist pioneer Travis Lombardo (author of the classic "Cave Spider" on Dutch Bill Boulder)!
FA's: Travis Lombardo, CS, G, ??
"Pipedream Sit" ~V7/8/9ish!? {topo-secret / near Sugarloaf Ridge}
Long standing low sit local dream project over a drainage pipe alongside a dirt road with a view!
FA: Gustav Zacharias
The Chatterbox and Big Pyramid Boulder and others! {Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma County}
Newly discovered boulders at Sugarloaf Ridge bring new life back to the park! The new line "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 up the center dihedral of the Big Pyramid is an instant classic!
FA's: Darren "Splitclimber" Wiemeyer
Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville {Lake, Napa, Yolo Counties}
A lot of new and some old boulder problems have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville areas.
FA's: CS, SB, ??
~A lot more went down than this recently in the Bay Area climbing scene but it was either at very secret/private areas or was not quite as cool, I forgot or I don't care :) I'm not getting paid for this so you get what you get - enjoy!
The Preserve {topo-secret}
A lot of new schist boulders with many classic new highball boulder problems have been found deep in the private nature preserves in West Sonoma Counties lush redwood forests.
A lot of new schist boulders with many classic new highball boulder problems have been found deep in the private nature preserves in West Sonoma Counties lush redwood forests.
FA's: Zach Anaya, Jason Kevin Moehlman, Ashley Freeman, CS, TL, GT, ??
South Bay Area / Big Sur Bouldering! {Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur}
A lot of new and some old bouldering areas have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur areas.
FA's: Sharma, AC, ??
~A lot more went down than this recently in the Bay Area climbing scene but it was either at very secret/private areas or was not quite as cool, I forgot or I don't care :) I'm not getting paid for this so you get what you get - enjoy!
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