The Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering 2018 Update

Clear Lake/Konocti - Little Black Forest,  Big Black Forest, Clear Lake State Park

Little Black Forest (aka Old Black Forest)
Black Magic Boulder
1 Black Magic Arete V3 sit start. / V2 stand. FA=CS/SB
2 Black Magic Direct V4 face right of arete - arete is off. FA=CS / Black Foot V6 dyno! FA=AH
3 Black Magic V1 stand start. FA=SB
4 Black Magic Traverse V2 low sit start on right then traverse up left into #3. FA=SB
5 Black Energy Arete!? Overgrown with moss - needs cleaning.
6 Black Magic Slab V0 stand start slab face left of #1.
7 Black Eye V5/6 low left sit start right of down-climb slab up into short bulging pocket face. / stand start on pockets V2/3 or mid sit start V4/5. FA=CS

Black Slab Boulder
8 Black Slab Arete VB fun slab arete left or right side.
9 Black Slab Face V0/1 slab face right of slab arete.
10 Black Moss Face V2 left slab face. Often overgrown with moss. FA=CS
11 Black Moss Traverse V2 left to right / V3 right to left into #10. FA=CS

Black Cat Boulder
12 Black Cat was V4/5 now V5/6? sit start - foothold broke so harder now? / V2/3 stand? FA=CS?
13 Black Panther V4/5 low left stand start into #14. FA=CS / start right of #12 traverse up right into #14. / Black V1 stand start jug pockets go up over short center face.
14 Black Forest Arete V2 stand start right arete. / V3 sit. FA=?

Black Hole Boulder
15 Dark Energy V1 stand start center of face and climb up and over the lip. FA=CS/SB
16 Dark Horse Traverse V3 sit start on right and traverse up left into #15. FA=SB
17 Dark Horse V5 low powerful start up into #15. FA=SB
18 Black and White V1 stand start at notch jug on prow.
19 Black Hole V4 sit start left hand in pocket and right hand below notch, bust a move up right into the notch jug and into #18. FA=CS
20 Black Hole Direct V5 sit start right hand in pocket and left-hand low, make move up right into the notch and into #18. / V5/6 low sit start right hand on edge. FA=CS
21 Black Power V6 low sit start #20 then traverse left into #22 left top out. FA=CS
22 Black and Blue Traverse V5 sit start left side traverse right into #19. / Black and Blue V2 sit start then up short left top out slopers to pockets. FA=CS
23 Black Sheep V0 left or right sit start on small boulder behind Black Hole Boulder.
24 Dark Horse Direct V1/2 start #16 and top out direct. FA=SB

Lost Boulder
25 Lost V4 low tricky sit start up into V1 stand start. Uphill from main boulders. FA=CS


Big Black Forest (aka New Black Forest)
Blackalicious Boulder
26 Blackalicious Arete? Overgrown with moss - needs cleaning.
27 Blackalicious V6 sit start. FA=CS / V4 stand start pocket face. FA=SB Needs cleaning.

Black Bean Boulder
28 Black Label V3 sit start mini cave. / V1 stand start - or Black Label Traverse V4/5 left sit FA=CS - or Black Label Direct  - match undercling stand start V4/5? FA=AZ or V5/6? low right start on right-hand sloper rail and left undercling right of the mini-cave (#28) FA=!?

29 Black Rail V4 low start or V0 stand start jug rail. FA=CS/SB

30 Black Water V5 stand start vertical pocket face water groove. FA=CS
31 Black Bean V5 low stand start up left. or V4 stand. or low sit V6? / Black Bean Traverse V5 stand - or V6? low stand or V6/7 low sit? - or Black Bean Direct V5 stand start straight up direct. or V5/6 low stand. or V6 low sit. / or Black Bean Face V!? vertical pocket face right of Black Bean!? FA=CS/?

Black Arrow Boulder
32 Black Arrow V3 stand start or V5 sit start FA=CS - or No Waffles For Chris V5/6 stand dyno FA=MW or sit dyno V6 FA=AZ
33 Black Arrow Arete V3 left hand arete V4 low sit - or direct face no arete!? - or Blackness Traverse? traverse slab from left to right into arete(s) FA=CS
34 !? right hand slab arete. FA=JS
35 highball center slab face(s)!?
36 highball left hand slab arete/main arete!?
37 !? high right-hand arete/left side of main arete!?
38 Black Widow V2 start at base of arete go up left into Black Widow Slab V0 left slab face. FA=CS
39 ? V1 start Black Sunshine and go right and up slab direct. FA=BN

40 Black Sunshine Slab V0/1 start Black Sunshine end on Black Widow Slab. FA=CS

41 Black Sunshine V3/4 sit start southwest arete - or V0/1 left stand start. FA=CS


Black Keystone Boulder 
42 Black Plague V3 crimps to jug arete or low start!? FA=CS

43 Serious Black!? steep face over bad rocky landing.
44 Blackout V4 start in right hand pocket and left hand undercling side pull - go up! FA=CS
45 Black Eyed Peas V4 FA=CS

46 Black Keystone V1 sit start holes go up easy high slab face past the keystone hold. FA=CS

47 Black n Tan V2 stand start right side go up into Black Keystone. FA=CS

48 Black Ops V4 sit start small boulder below Serious Black. FA=CS

49 ?

50 ? 

Clear Lake State Park {{AS OF JANUARY 2019 BOULDERING IS NOT CURRENTLY ALLOWED IN CLEAR LAKE STATE PARK}}
Leprechaun Boulders
51 Little Leprechaun V0 direct from sit start. / VB with big mossy right-hand flake jug. FA=CS
52 Stumped V4 low left sit start. FA=CS 

53 Shenanigans V? left side face of Shamrock!?
54 Shamrock V2 semi high semi-classic up center of boulder. FA=CS
55 Sham Jam V0 crack corner arete right side of Shamrock - downclimb.

Campsite 110
56 Camp Crack V0 sit start short splitter crack in tight corridor. / VB stand start. FA=CS
57 110 Arete V2 sorta high, sorta classic left arete. FA=CS
58 420 Face V1 stand start on gritty sloper jug in high corner. / V!? sit start low jug shelf project!?
59 Camp Clown V2 sit starts. / V0 fun right or scary left finish. FA=CS
60 Camp Fire V2 sit start scrunchy right side of boulder. FA=CS



Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo

Black Forest - Wine Country Bouldering by GunksApps

Schoolhouse Rock AKA The Schoolhouse

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
Left to Right:

1 "The Bird is The Werd" 5.12a/b* 2 bolts to 1 bolt anchor. FA=CS
2 "Toll Taker" 5.12b/c**** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=CS
3 5.12/13 project - start #4 angle up left into #2 - TR!?
4 "Dry Line" 5.12c/d**** 3 bolts to 1 bolt rain anchor or 4 bolts to left anchor {stays dry in most rain storms} - or up right to lip anchor!? (both 2 bolt anchors) FA-TR=CB FA-Lead=CS
5 5.12/13 project - white streak between #4 and #6!?
6 5.12/13 project - bolt line left of #7!?
7 "Solar Flare" 5.12a/b** TR/Top Rope line left of #8 (shared anchor). FA=RT
8 "Solar Catastrophe" 5.12a/b*** 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=RT
9 "P.E." 5.10* clip #10 anchor then traverse left to #7/#8 anchor. FA=CS
10 "Recess" 5.9 1 bolt to 1 bolt anchor - mossy far right face. FA=CS



Schoolhouse Rock - YOUTUBE

"Toll Taker" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE

"Solar Catastrophe" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE

Bouldering/Climbing in Santa Rosa CA 2018

The Cobblestone
Cobblestone


Bum Hill
Warm Up Boulders
~V0-V3ish FA's=CS

Happy Hour Boulder
"Happy Hour" V4/5 local classic squat start on detached block FA=CS - or direct low start!?
"Strangiato" V0 stand start far left mantle ledge/shelf FA=CS
"?" V3/4 far right scrunchy low sit - or  V1 stand start FA=RT


Rock Quarry/Dynamite Cave
Original Boulder
"Old Style" V2 sit start V1 stand start - epoxied old school classic FA=DS
"Pink Belly"? sit start left arete no epoxied rocks - project!? or V2 stand start.

Dynamite Cave
"Dynamite Cave?" 5.11TR local classic face FA=RT or 5.11 face direct - or arete direct!?

Summits Block
"Summits Arete" V5/6 sit start classic sculpted arete to lip FA=CS or low right sit!?
V0/1 stand start arete/lip FA=CS
"?" direct arete/lip sit to slab!?


Spring Lake
"Springtime" V1 FA=CS?
"Spring Chicken" V0 old/original local classic FA=? - or "Spring Fling Traverse" V2 FA=CS
"Springboard" V4 FA=CS


Fountaingrove
!!??


Flat Rock
!?


Annadel
!?

"Happy Hour" V4/5

"Summits Arete" V5/6

For over 25 years I've done ~1000+ first ascents with ~100 this year alone on almost every type of stone. Cleaning/trundling loose rock off first ascents is an often overlooked and under appreciated risky part of establishing new routes. It is risky for the person doing it and it is risky for all those that follow if it is not done properly or not done at all in some instances. There is also a fine line between over cleaning for safety and under cleaning for aesthetics (good) and laziness (~bad). Never assume the rock even on established old classics is solid until every hold is searched for visible fractures as well as inspected by hand, knocking and listening as well as feeling for hollowness and vibrations. Even then I have still had seeminlgy solid holds break on me. This dude is lucky this was not worse - be frkn careful; 
https://www.climbing.com/videos/video-boulderer-falls-pulls-300-pound-block-off-with-him/

Pinnacles Bouldering

East Side - Moses Spring Trail/Bear Gulch Caves
Moses Spring Trail
Yellow Jacket Boulder
1 "Yellowjacket" V3/4 classic line up center of steep yellow lichen and green moss covered boulder FA=Chris Summit/Anson Shmanson
2 "Yellowjacket Traverse" V5/6? traverse into Yellowjacket!?
3 V6/7? face right of Yellowjacket!?
4 "Dabbage Incorporated" V4/5 FA=CS
5 steep face left of Dabbage Inc?
Monkey Boulder
6 "Chunky Monkey" V3/4 low sit V1/2 stand - short left arete. FA=CS
7 "Funky Monkey" V3/4 center face/roof low sit. FA=CS
8 V2/3 right arete/roof sit. FA=DH
9 ?
High Arete Boulder
10 high left arete next to Yellowjacket?
11 high face corner right of high left arete?
12 high arete/face on hill?
Bear Gulch Caves
13 steep cave face far left - and/or traverse lip right?
14 "Direct Cave" V3/4 steep cave face right side left of hueco direct to lip or traverse right. FA=CS
15 V1/2 steep cave face right start hueco to lip or traverse lip right into #16. FA=DH
16 V0/1 steep cave face far right start hueco then traverse right. FA=CS

17 V3/4 short steep boulder in cave. FA=DH

18 V2/3 low start right hand pocket past edge to lip match and drop. FA=CS

19 "Knobby Bulge" V3/4 knob face sit start next to trail up left into slot. FA=CS
20 crack roof face over trail!?
21 "Monolith Traverse" V4-V6 harder depending on exactly where you start or finish - traverse right to left from Cantaloupe Death to Regular Route. The first official boulder problem on Pinnacles East Side. FA: Jim Thornburg
22 Discovery Wall area traverse(s)!?
23 "Reservoir Problem" VB/0/1? boulder face next to reservoir?
24 boulder face right side next to reservoir?
Teaching Rock/High Peaks
25 "Teaching Rock Traverse"VB/0 traverse backside/south side of Teaching Rock FA=CS/DH?
26 semi highball knobby slab/face above traverse?
27 semi highball knobby slab/face above traverse??
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?

West Side - Juniper Canyon Trail
Juniper Creek Boulders
1 traverse on hill below trail?
2 slab face?
3 sit overhang prow into slab?
4 pillar in creek!?
5 steep face to lip drop or high slab top!?
The Choss Balls

Lower Choss Ball
6 "The Scrotum"? chossy highball crack jug seam on center face of the lower choss ball!?
7 lower choss ball face(s)??
8 ??
9 ??

Upper Choss Ball aka The Choss Ball
10 V0 easy up/downclimb far right side.
11 "Shake The Monkey" V0/1 up left across shaky jugs into face left of downclimb. FA=CS
12 V2/3 sit start up into face left of downclimb. FA=AH
13 "Slob on my Knob" V2/3 sit start face center-right. FA=CS
14 "Jukebox Hero" V2/3 sit start face center-left or V0/1 stand start. FA=CS
15 "Flotsam" V2/3 left low stand start up into center-left face or direct start "Jetsam" V3/4. FA=CS
16 "Ballers Traverse" V5/6 sit start face center-left then traverse right into downclimb. FA=CS
17 "Ball Fondler Traverse" V5/6 start on downclimb traverse left into left face top out. FA=AH
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

West Side - Balconies Trail
Red Sun Boulder
Short red boulder just right of Balconies Trail at entrance to first caves next to trail to Elephant Rock and The Citadel:
1 "Hot Flash" V1/2 or V2/3 direct left - sit start short steep bulge next to trail. FA=SL/CS
2 "Mood Swings" V0/1 start on left and traverse up right along lip to far right top out. FA=SL
3 "Red Dwarf" V0/1 short left face stand start - a bit crumbly.
4 "Red Sun" V3/4 sit start center face - V1/2 stand start. FA=CS
5 "Redline" V3/4 right stand start on crimps up left into to Red Sun. FA=CS
6 right arete - same stand as Blood Red?

7 "Split Boulder" V1/2 sit start hueco up left past hollow jug to drop off on good holds up left - boulder left of trail at entrance to first caves.
8 boulder(s) in creek left of trail at entrance to first caves.
9 "Anticlimactic Traverse" V4/5 traverse huecos, underclings and pockets on center face on base of cliff just right of trail up and right to drop of finish FA=CS - or "Shepherds Traverse" V5/6 low left natural thread start?

Bouldering Rock
10 northwest arete - vert left or slabby right side.
11 "Bouldering Slab" VB/0 classic main line up the center of the slab ~bolts on top - many left or right variations or traverses up to V0/1. FA=??
12 "Pocket Problem" V1/2 left side of main east face face from right hand slot pocket start.
13 "Flake Problem" V1/2 stand start left hand flake face or V3/4 low hueco sit start. FA=AH(sit)
14 "Deadpoint Face" V2/3 stand start edges and crank or deadpoint to lip and top out or V3/4 low hueco sit. FA=CS(sit)
15 V2/3 direct sit start face left of northeast arete.
16 V1/2 sit start northeast arete.
17 V5/6 low start steep face right of arete. FA=AH
18 "Original Classic" V3 low start on right side of steep face up left past rail to top out direct or left  FA=??
19 V2/3/4? right arete/lip traverse up into top of the original classic.
20 traverse up right into high face!?
21 sit start rail up right into high face!?
22 sit start direct up into high face!?
23 right start up into high face!?
The Rookie Rock
24 5th classX grungy tall solo slab on southwest face - accèss for top of Rookie.
25 "The Rookie" 5.10d top rope northface ~bolts on top - access via 5th classX solo slab.
26 "Ring of Fire" V3/4 stand start left pocket on big overhang and pull up and right onto slab - or low start project; fire up into the "ring" pocket!? FA=CS
27 "The Nookie" V2/3 low sit start arete on big overhang up left and top out onto slab in the same spot as for Ring of Fire. FA=CS
28 ""Sharma Project""!? - high face project - left feature up to steep high headwall onto high slab.!?
29 face(s) right of Sharma Project!?
30 face far right of Sharma Project over trail near corridor!?
31 short face on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
32 short face/crack on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
33 short traverse on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
The Machete Boulder
34 ?
35 ?
Balconies
36 "Balconies Traverse" V0/1/2? traverse along base of Balconies Cliff. FA=??
Balconies Caves?
37 ?
38 ?
39 ?
40 ?

The Rockshelter aka "Coyote Hole"

Rockshelter/Coyote Hole - right to left:
{Please tread lightly here - respect this precious sacred ancient historic cave - leave no trace.}

1 VB easy way up/down.
2 V0- sit start short slab corner ,watched on low right hand layback. FA=NJ
3 Sabertooth Sneak Attack V2 right sit then up left - or V0 stand. FA=SL
4 The Coyote V2 right sit then traverse left and up into main top out same as #5+6. FA=CS
5 Wlie E Coyote V4 sit under cave and up over main top out. FA=CS
6 The Coyote V1 stand start main top out. FA=CS
7 Coyote Ugly V6 sit start near back of cave out right into main top out! FA=CS
7 Sacred Spirit V6 right sit then left into #8 to top out. AKA Coyote Traverse FA=CS
8 Coyote Arete V2 high stand start off bush/rock or V3 low campus stand start off lip holds up orange left arete/corner of cave over tilted highish bushy landing. FA=DW old school original classic.
9 Road Runner V6 left horizontal crack to left facing corner up into #8 to top out. FA=CS
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 V0 stand start or V0/1 sit left side. FA=?
15 VB far left stand.

Forest/Adventure/Rock Climbing Therapy

A place to share information and ideas about the use of Rock Climbing / Bouldering as Therapy for many physical and mental health issues.

A mix of Adventure Therapy and Occupational Therapy, Climbing Therapy can be done on climbing walls/climbing structures but mainly at indoor climbing gyms. For the full package it can be done at outdoor climbing rocks (of course with proficient climbing guides/instructors) for the added benefit of Forest Therapy, also known as Forest Bathing, to totally maximize all of the potential therapeutic options and benefits of Rock Climbing Therapy in the most natural and efficient way. 


Rock Climbing Therapy - Facebook