My best 16 first ascents 2016

Sungazer Traverse V7
Sungazer V6
Raindance Traverse V6
Mad Max V6
Goforth Arete V6
Sun God V6
Pothead Traverse V6
Spirit Bear V5
Cricket Face V4
Road Warrior V4
The Ritual V4

Climestone Cowboy 5.12a
Climestoned 5.11a
Bam Bam 5.10d
Flintstoned 5.10c
Rhinestoned 5.10b

Green Cave TOPO SECRET

The Green Cave aka Killer Green Cave
TOPO SECRET ~private~ Mayacamas Mountains, Sonoma County, CA.

* = below average / ***** = world classic - left to right:

1 White Widow V5*** scary far left steep roof with sketchy cliff edge landing zone CB
2 Green Heart V3*** scary jug line over tree with sketchy cliff edge landing zone CS
3 Green Traverse V5**** high into #8+#18, V6*** low into #8+#18, V7**** low into #11+#18 CS
4 Killer Green Traverse V7** #1 then high into #8+#18, V7/8** #1 then low into #8+#18,                 or 5.13/V8*** #1 then low into #11+#18 for the full length 100ft mega enduro link up! CS
or mega project ~~ V9/10/11? start #3 into #12 project!?
or V10/11/12? start #4 into #12 project!!??
5 Bobzien Machine V6*** sit start between #2 and #6 and go direct up steep roof RB
6 Green Machine V4*** low sit up into knee bar hole up left to #2 or Green Machine Direct V3*** up right to low pocket or Green Monster V4** stand start up to hueco or V5*** sit to hueco CS
7 Nicks Problem V3** dirty green jug line NL
8 Green Cave Direct V3*** stand start horns in center cave up right to big hueco CS
9 Verms Variation V4*** stand start mini hueco/#11 up left to big hueco V5*** sit JS
10 The Funk V4*** stand start mini hueco/#11 direct up left to big hueco V5*** sit CS
11 KGB V4**** stand or V5**** sit - original classic - up steep face on right side of cave from mini hueco past pocket to big horns drop off or traverse right into #18 to add a grade. JC?/CS
12 Kevins Problem V7*** low sit KJ or project V8/9? sit #11 into #12!?
13 Seans Problem V3*** sit SB
14 Seans Problem Direct V5** sit right variation SB
15 Mean Green Traverse V7** sit #12 traverse left low into #2 CS
16 Charlies Traverse V7** #15 into #1? CB
17 Nectar Traverse V5*** sit #11 traverse left high into #2 or V6** sit #12 CS
18 Upper Traverse V3*** full stand - high V4** low - into #21 CS
19 Warm Upper Traverse V2/3*** mid sit - high V3/4** low - into #21 CS
20 Green Velvet V2/3/4** stand/sit start above #19 CS
21 The Warm Upper V0/1*** stand jugs up right walk off or traverse jugs low V2/3** JC/CS?
22 Hair Tie V4/5*** sit steep face up into #21 CS
23 Hair Tie Traverse V5** sit #22 then traverse jugs low right CS
24 Simple Green Direct? V1/2/3** separate face on far right CS
25 Simple Green? V2/3/4** separate face on far right KA

Garberville Bouldering

*=below average / *****=world classic

Benbow Boulders aka Curbshot
[South of Garberville off US101 near the Benbow Bridge bolted artificial sport routes.]
1   "Curbshot Arete" V4/5**** overhang to highball slab arete finish or bail into tree FA=MN
2   "Crossbow V2/3*** left sit up right to jugs FA=CS (sit)
3   "Low Water Arete" V1/2** left arete next to river top out or "Low Water Traverse" V2/3 lip traverse up right to top of Riverside Face or Riverside Arete FA=CS?
4   "Riverside Face" * center face short stand start?
5   ?
6   "Riverside Arete" V3/4*** low sit right face/arete V1/2** stand - right side FA=CS?
7   "Bendover" V2/3** low sit on rail mantle short steep bulge FA=CS
8   "Deadwood Arete" V2/3*** right sit FA=SR
9   "Deadwood Direct" V3/4*** center sit FA=CS
10 "Deadpool" V4/5*** left sit FA=CS
11 "Bow n Arrow" V2/3*** left or right face - stand starts FA=CS
12 "Dead Bow"? Bow n Arrow left start then traverse up right into Deadpool?
13 "Dead Arrow"? Deadpool sit start up left into Bow n Arrow?
14 "Benbow Arete" V1/2**** left side - right hand arete/face FA=?
15 "Benbow Arete Direct" V2/3*** right side - left hand arete/face FA=CS?
16 slab face?
17 highball right arete over water ~ tr!?
18 highball center face over water ~ tr!?
19 highball left arete over water into top out or up left into Crossbow!?
20 "Long Bow"? steep left arete!?
21 "Short Bow"? face right of Long Bow?
22 high slab right?
23 high slab center?
24 high slab left?
25 ?
Benbow River Slab
26 VB/0 left slab FA=SR
27 V0/1 center slab/face FA=CS
28 V0/1 right arete FA=SR
29 V1/2 traverse right to left into left slab FA=CS
30 ?

Road Warrior Rocks
[north of Garberville off US101]
Rattlesnake Boulder
(upper boulder)
1   "Rattlesnake Pliskin" V4*** upper face upper boulder(moss on top?) FA=CS{original FA}
2   "Snake Rails" V2/3** right rails up left into #1 FA=CS
3   "?" V?* ?
Road Warrior Boulder
(main boulder with best landing)
4   "Road Warrior" V2/3**** stand start or V3/4**** center sit FA=CS
5   "Road Warrior Direct" V4/5**** direct/right sit into #4 FA=CS
6   "Road Warrior Traverse" V7?**** sit left traverse right into #4 FA=?
7   "Mad Max" V6*** sit center up left into #8 FA=CS
8   "Mad Max Direct" V5*** sit left up left to top FA=CS
Hot Lips Boulder
(short lip traverse boulder)
9   "Hot Lips Dyno" V2/3** sit short dyno to lip FA=CS
10 "Hot Lips Traverse" V0/1** start left traverse lip up right to top of #9 ~warm up FA=CS
Riverside Boulder
(boulder next to the river)
11 "?" V?* ?
12 "?" V?* ?
13 "?" V?* ?
14 "?" V?* stand start loose lip jugs up to jug on slab over short steep corner(~sit?) FA=CS
15 "?" V?* lip traverse up right into #14? FA=CS
16 "?" V?* ?
17 "?" V?* ?
18 "?" V?* ?
19 "?" V?* ?
Thunderdome
(large upper rock ~ TR or Lead!?)
20 ?
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
((random boulders!?))
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?

Avenue of the Giants Boulders
[north of Garberville and Road Warrior off northeast side of US101]
Avenue of the Giants Boulders
1 ?
2 ?
3 ?
4 ?
5 ?
Ohmann Creek Boulders
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?

Think Global Climb Local

LOVE Travel!!
but,
also appreciate and cherish and eat up your local outdoor rocks like you would eat up your local fresh raw organic and cheerfully grown foods. Let your local rock climbing routes and boulder problems become part of your spirit, your DNA, your technique base and your overall skill set, the same as the food you eat becomes part of your body mass, and in turn, your heart and soul.

You are what you eat so you are what you climb!
:)

My Suggested Hard Local Sport Routes and Boulder Problems in Progressive Difficulty - North Bay Area CA.

Here are My Suggested Routes and Boulder Problems in Progressive Difficulty for the North San Francisco Bay Area for rising up from average 5.10-5.11 climbing into solid 5.12-5.13 sport or from moderate level V4-V6 up to solid more advanced levels of V7-V10 bouldering. Whether for the first time pushing into these higher grades ever or just locally or for coming back from injuries or time off. These are mostly climbs or boulder problems that I have done successfully or done first ascent of or at least tried and heard a lot about over the years. This list is my personal favorites based on easy public access and/or relatively safe protection or landing zones and fairly good to great quality rock and movement. The tried and true well trodden popular consensus graded entry level full value local must-do classic:
~~My TOP 15 Sport / TOP 15 Boulder - total 30:



Sport Climbs
5.11d - 5.12a/b
"Hot Tuna" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach
"Nancy" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach
"Courtney" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach

5.12b/c
"Swallow My Pride" 5.12b/c Mt St Helena
"Sea Monster" 5.12b/c Mickeys Beach
"Sea Biscuit" 5.12b/c Salt Point

5.12c/d
"Sex Porpoises" 5.12c Mickeys Beach
"Wet Dreams" 5.12c/d Mickeys Beach
"Pseudo Bohemian" 5.12d/13a Sea Crag

5.13a/b
"Squid Vicious" 5.12d/13a Mickeys Beach
"Naked and Disfigured" 5.12d/13a Mickeys Beach
"Holy Mackerel" 5.13a Mickeys Beach

5.13b/c
"Endless Bummer" 5.13b Mickeys Beach
"Dreams of White Porsches" 5.13b Mickeys Beach
"Judge Dredd" 5.13b Sea Crag



Boulder Problems
V6 
"Fort Rosstafarian" V6 Fort Ross
"Living A Dream" V6 Fort Ross
"SHP Sit" V6 Putah Creek

V7
"Living A Nightmare" V7 Fort Ross
"Hellspawn" V7 Putah Creek
"Little Wing" V7 Stinson Beach

V8
"Nat's Traverse" V8 Berkeley (East Bay)
"Welcome To Whinecountry" V8 Putah Creek
"Orange Buddha Arete" V8 Mickeys Beach

V9
"Wicked" V9 Mt Tam
"Little Wing Sit" V9 Stinson Beach
"Grand Finale" V9/10 (aka Relentless) Fort Ross

V10
"Open Mind" V10 Goat Rock
"The Hard Traverse V10/11 Goat Rock
"Relentless Traverse" (aka Grand Finale) V10/11 Fort Ross

Middle Ravine Boulders - Mt Tam 2016

In Rattlesnake Creek just downhill (about 2-3min) from the parking on the roadside next to the Ravine Boulder (Wicked/Bonum Vitae) and the parking for The Intuition Boulders. About 1/3 of the way downhill from the parking areas to the Lower Ravine Boulders on a shady yet semi exposed hillside/ridgeline. About 12-15 fun moderate lowballs VB-V6~!

1 V5? original short steep right side bulge sit on good low right hand flat edge and low left hand side-pull on prow FA=?? - or "?" V1 sit start left hand on good flat edge and right hand on side-pull edge and go up into corer and onto slab FA=SL

2 V6? same short steep bulge sit as #1 then traverse left into #4 ~ pumpy sloper lowball classic! FA=CS

3 V5? start on left on side by side slot jugs same as #4 traverse right into #1 - or add slightly harder #4 low pocket sit start!?

FA=CS

4 V2 low stand left face on side by side slot jugs - or V? low sit start left hand pocket and low right hand on same start hold as #1+2!?

FA=??

5 ?

6 V2/3? sit start arete then pull up onto left slab face and top out - or VB stand start slab face. FA=??

7 "Rock N Roll Arete" V3/4? sit start same as #6 up right into top of #9. FA=CS

8 V3/4? sit start same as #9 up left into #6. FA=CS?

9 "Rollie Pollie Ollie" V2/3? sit start with low right hand side-pull and left hand on lip slot and go up right side face FA=CS - or low sit V3/4 FA=? - or same low sit traverse left into #7 V3/4 FA=CS

10 ?

11 V0/1 face/arete. FA=??

12 ?

RANDOM BOULDERING NEARBY:
Main Bootjack Parking Lot

13 "Acetylcholine" V2? face above trail above northeast end of Bootjack Parking Lot. FA=LVW

14 "Elfquest" V3? sit start overhang or V1 stand start next to bridge ~10min up Matt Lewis Trail from Bootjack Parking Lot or ~10min on deer trails up Rattlesnake Creek from Ravine. FA=CS

15 ?

The Middle Ravine Boulders 2016 - YouTube

Dos Rios / Northeast Mendocino County Climbing/Bouldering

Eel River/Dos Rios/Covelo/Black Butte/M1 Climbing/Bouldering


~In order from US101 east on CA162/Covelo Rd to Dos Rios - Covelo - Black Butte - M1.
Over 150 established boulder problems and sport/trad/tr routes with potential for 500+ total!
Only new problems and classics listed - for more info check out:
 Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo



? Boulders (~10+ boulder problems!?)
?


The Glass Boulders (potential for ~25+ boulder problems!?)
Wobble Wobble VB/0
Shake It Shake It V0
Bulletproof V4/5
V1/2 DWS!
?


The Gold Vein Boulders (~10+ boulder problems!?)
Gold Vein!?
V3/4
V2/3
?


Straddle Monkey Boulder/(Tatu Boulders?) (~10+ boulder problems!?)
Straddle Monkey V2/3
Straddle Monkey Traverse V3/4
?


Upper Main Fork Boulders (~15+ boulder problems!?)
V4/5
V3/4
V2/3
V0/1
?


The Hideout (potential for ~25+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
Christal Method V3R stand or V4R sit
Twisted V7/8
Twister V4
V2/3
Fish Out Of Water V3/4
?

Deadman's Rocks (potential for ~50+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
Mainline aka Deadman's Crack 5.10
Mystic Rhythm 5.11
Liquid Fire 5.12
Electric Eel V3/4 or Direct Electric V6?
Shock Therapy V3/4?
Chuanga V4/5
Brass Funky V6/7
Bronze Arete V2/3
Bronze Face V4/5
Mainline Traverse V6
Miniline V4
V3/4 stand or V5/6 mid stand or V6/7 low sit arete?

V2/3 mini sit?
V5/6 cave traverse?


Dos Rios Boulders (potential for ~25+ boulder problems!?)
Negra Modelo V2/3
The Principal V4 mid stand or V? low stand!?
Cricket Face V0/1 stand or V3/4 sit
The Ritual V3/4 stand
Pitfall Arete V!?
Mud Butt Crack V4/5
Stranded Boulders
Stranded V4
Stranded Arete V0
RawSafari V0R/W
Riverdance V3/4
One Tree V3/4
Scratchy Bush V4/5

Swallow Rock (potential for ~100+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
Green Slab 5.9 3 bolts
Black Slab 5.11 7 bolts
Hard to Swallow 5.12 7 bolts
Covelocos Corner 5.10 trad
Bomb Ass Dookie V4 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Can of Whoop Ass V5 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Bomb Ass Traverse V6 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Bomb Ass Arete V2/3 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Tricks Are For Kids V5/6 stand or V8/9 sit
Skyhook V5 and Skyhawk V6
Firestarter V4
Firestarter Traverse V5
Jaded V4 - or V8 low
Gnar Gnar V7 sit or Gnar V3 stand
Shaded Traverse V6
Made in the Shade V5
Christal Gaston V4
V!? arete project
VB/0
V0/1
V1/2
V2/3
V3/4
V4/5
V5/6
V8/9/10!?
!!??


Goforth Creek Boulders (~10+ boulder problems!?)
Gopher Arete V3/4
Goforth Crack VB/0
Goforth Arete V5/6 sit or V1/2 stand
Goforth Face aka Flat World Project V6/7/8!?
?


Poonkinney Crag (potential for ~10+ routes and boulder problems!?)

!?


Black Butte Beach Boulders - Middle Fork Eel River (potential for ~25+ boulder problems!?)
TBBPIM V6R
Sendocino V5
Sendocino Direct V6
Sendocino Sit V3
Sendocino Slab V1
?

The Falls (potential for ~100+ boulder problems!?)
Slick Willy Traverse V3/4
Vagabond V4/5
Vixen V5
Vampire V4
Run and Jump V3/4
V4/5 swimming hole boulder
V2/3 swimming hole boulder
?

M1 Area (potential for ~100+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
M16 V4
Yellowbelly V5
V4/5
V4/5
?

Indian Dick (potential for ~20+ boulder problems!?)
V1/2
V3/4
?