Bouldering/Climbing in Santa Rosa CA 2018

The Cobblestone
Cobblestone


Bum Hill
Warm Up Boulders
~V0-V3ish FA's=CS

Happy Hour Boulder
"Happy Hour" V4/5 local classic squat start on detached block FA=CS - or direct low start!?
"Strangiato" V0 stand start far left mantle ledge/shelf FA=CS
"?" V3/4 far right scrunchy low sit - or  V1 stand start FA=RT


Rock Quarry/Dynamite Cave
Original Boulder
"Old Style" V2 sit start V1 stand start - epoxied old school classic FA=DS
"Pink Belly"? sit start left arete no epoxied rocks - project!? or V2 stand start.

Dynamite Cave
"Dynamite Cave?" 5.11TR local classic face FA=RT or 5.11 face direct - or arete direct!?

Summits Block
"Summits Arete" V5/6 sit start classic sculpted arete to lip FA=CS or low right sit!?
V0/1 stand start arete/lip FA=CS
"?" direct arete/lip sit to slab!?


Spring Lake
"Springtime" V1 FA=CS?
"Spring Chicken" V0 old/original local classic FA=? - or "Spring Fling Traverse" V2 FA=CS
"Springboard" V4 FA=CS


Fountaingrove
!!??


Flat Rock
!?


Annadel
!?

"Happy Hour" V4/5

"Summits Arete" V5/6

For over 25 years I've done ~1000+ first ascents with ~100 this year alone on almost every type of stone. Cleaning/trundling loose rock off first ascents is an often overlooked and under appreciated risky part of establishing new routes. It is risky for the person doing it and it is risky for all those that follow if it is not done properly or not done at all in some instances. There is also a fine line between over cleaning for safety and under cleaning for aesthetics (good) and laziness (~bad). Never assume the rock even on established old classics is solid until every hold is searched for visible fractures as well as inspected by hand, knocking and listening as well as feeling for hollowness and vibrations. Even then I have still had seeminlgy solid holds break on me. This dude is lucky this was not worse - be frkn careful; 
https://www.climbing.com/videos/video-boulderer-falls-pulls-300-pound-block-off-with-him/

Pinnacles Bouldering

East Side - Moses Spring Trail/Bear Gulch Caves
Moses Spring Trail
Yellow Jacket Boulder
1 "Yellowjacket" V3/4 classic line up center of steep yellow lichen and green moss covered boulder FA=Chris Summit/Anson Shmanson
2 "Yellowjacket Traverse" V5/6? traverse into Yellowjacket!?
3 V6/7? face right of Yellowjacket!?
4 "Dabbage Incorporated" V4/5 FA=CS
5 steep face left of Dabbage Inc?
Monkey Boulder
6 "Chunky Monkey" V3/4 low sit V1/2 stand - short left arete. FA=CS
7 "Funky Monkey" V3/4 center face/roof low sit. FA=CS
8 V2/3 right arete/roof sit. FA=DH
9 ?
High Arete Boulder
10 high left arete next to Yellowjacket?
11 high face corner right of high left arete?
12 high arete/face on hill?
Bear Gulch Caves
13 steep cave face far left - and/or traverse lip right?
14 "Direct Cave" V3/4 steep cave face right side left of hueco direct to lip or traverse right. FA=CS
15 V1/2 steep cave face right start hueco to lip or traverse lip right into #16. FA=DH
16 V0/1 steep cave face far right start hueco then traverse right. FA=CS

17 V3/4 short steep boulder in cave. FA=DH

18 V2/3 low start right hand pocket past edge to lip match and drop. FA=CS

19 "Knobby Bulge" V3/4 knob face sit start next to trail up left into slot. FA=CS
20 crack roof face over trail!?
21 "Monolith Traverse" V4-V6 harder depending on exactly where you start or finish - traverse right to left from Cantaloupe Death to Regular Route. The first official boulder problem on Pinnacles East Side. FA: Jim Thornburg
22 Discovery Wall area traverse(s)!?
23 "Reservoir Problem" VB/0/1? boulder face next to reservoir?
24 boulder face right side next to reservoir?
Teaching Rock/High Peaks
25 "Teaching Rock Traverse"VB/0 traverse backside/south side of Teaching Rock FA=CS/DH?
26 semi highball knobby slab/face above traverse?
27 semi highball knobby slab/face above traverse??
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?

West Side - Juniper Canyon Trail
Juniper Creek Boulders
1 traverse on hill below trail?
2 slab face?
3 sit overhang prow into slab?
4 pillar in creek!?
5 steep face to lip drop or high slab top!?
The Choss Balls

Lower Choss Ball
6 "The Scrotum"? chossy highball crack jug seam on center face of the lower choss ball!?
7 lower choss ball face(s)??
8 ??
9 ??

Upper Choss Ball aka The Choss Ball
10 V0 easy up/downclimb far right side.
11 "Shake The Monkey" V0/1 up left across shaky jugs into face left of downclimb. FA=CS
12 V2/3 sit start up into face left of downclimb. FA=AH
13 "Slob on my Knob" V2/3 sit start face center-right. FA=CS
14 "Jukebox Hero" V2/3 sit start face center-left or V0/1 stand start. FA=CS
15 "Flotsam" V2/3 left low stand start up into center-left face or direct start "Jetsam" V3/4. FA=CS
16 "Ballers Traverse" V5/6 sit start face center-left then traverse right into downclimb. FA=CS
17 "Ball Fondler Traverse" V5/6 start on downclimb traverse left into left face top out. FA=AH
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

West Side - Balconies Trail
Red Sun Boulder
Short red boulder just right of Balconies Trail at entrance to first caves next to trail to Elephant Rock and The Citadel:
1 "Hot Flash" V1/2 or V2/3 direct left - sit start short steep bulge next to trail. FA=SL/CS
2 "Mood Swings" V0/1 start on left and traverse up right along lip to far right top out. FA=SL
3 "Red Dwarf" V0/1 short left face stand start - a bit crumbly.
4 "Red Sun" V3/4 sit start center face - V1/2 stand start. FA=CS
5 "Redline" V3/4 right stand start on crimps up left into to Red Sun. FA=CS
6 right arete - same stand as Blood Red?

7 "Split Boulder" V1/2 sit start hueco up left past hollow jug to drop off on good holds up left - boulder left of trail at entrance to first caves.
8 boulder(s) in creek left of trail at entrance to first caves.
9 "Anticlimactic Traverse" V4/5 traverse huecos, underclings and pockets on center face on base of cliff just right of trail up and right to drop of finish FA=CS - or "Shepherds Traverse" V5/6 low left natural thread start?

Bouldering Rock
10 northwest arete - vert left or slabby right side.
11 "Bouldering Slab" VB/0 classic main line up the center of the slab ~bolts on top - many left or right variations or traverses up to V0/1. FA=??
12 "Pocket Problem" V1/2 left side of main east face face from right hand slot pocket start.
13 "Flake Problem" V1/2 stand start left hand flake face or V3/4 low hueco sit start. FA=AH(sit)
14 "Deadpoint Face" V2/3 stand start edges and crank or deadpoint to lip and top out or V3/4 low hueco sit. FA=CS(sit)
15 V2/3 direct sit start face left of northeast arete.
16 V1/2 sit start northeast arete.
17 V5/6 low start steep face right of arete. FA=AH
18 "Original Classic" V3 low start on right side of steep face up left past rail to top out direct or left  FA=??
19 V2/3/4? right arete/lip traverse up into top of the original classic.
20 traverse up right into high face!?
21 sit start rail up right into high face!?
22 sit start direct up into high face!?
23 right start up into high face!?
The Rookie Rock
24 5th classX grungy tall solo slab on southwest face - accèss for top of Rookie.
25 "The Rookie" 5.10d top rope northface ~bolts on top - access via 5th classX solo slab.
26 "Ring of Fire" V3/4 stand start left pocket on big overhang and pull up and right onto slab - or low start project; fire up into the "ring" pocket!? FA=CS
27 "The Nookie" V2/3 low sit start arete on big overhang up left and top out onto slab in the same spot as for Ring of Fire. FA=CS
28 ""Sharma Project""!? - high face project - left feature up to steep high headwall onto high slab.!?
29 face(s) right of Sharma Project!?
30 face far right of Sharma Project over trail near corridor!?
31 short face on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
32 short face/crack on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
33 short traverse on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
The Machete Boulder
34 ?
35 ?
Balconies
36 "Balconies Traverse" V0/1/2? traverse along base of Balconies Cliff. FA=??
Balconies Caves?
37 ?
38 ?
39 ?
40 ?

The Rockshelter aka "Coyote Hole"

Rockshelter/Coyote Hole - right to left:
{Please tread lightly here - respect this precious sacred ancient historic cave - leave no trace.}

1 VB easy way up/down.
2 V0- sit start short slab corner ,watched on low right hand layback. FA=NJ
3 Sabertooth Sneak Attack V2 right sit then up left - or V0 stand. FA=SL
4 The Coyote V2 right sit then traverse left and up into main top out same as #5+6. FA=CS
5 Wlie E Coyote V4 sit under cave and up over main top out. FA=CS
6 The Coyote V1 stand start main top out. FA=CS
7 Coyote Ugly V6 sit start near back of cave out right into main top out! FA=CS
7 Sacred Spirit V6 right sit then left into #8 to top out. AKA Coyote Traverse FA=CS
8 Coyote Arete V2 high stand start off bush/rock or V3 low campus stand start off lip holds up orange left arete/corner of cave over tilted highish bushy landing. FA=DW old school original classic.
9 Road Runner V6 left horizontal crack to left facing corner up into #8 to top out. FA=CS
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 V0 stand start or V0/1 sit left side. FA=?
15 VB far left stand.

Forest/Adventure/Rock Climbing Therapy

A place to share information and ideas about the use of Rock Climbing / Bouldering as Therapy for many physical and mental health issues.

A mix of Adventure Therapy and Occupational Therapy, Climbing Therapy can be done on climbing walls/climbing structures but mainly at indoor climbing gyms. For the full package it can be done at outdoor climbing rocks (of course with proficient climbing guides/instructors) for the added benefit of Forest Therapy, also known as Forest Bathing, to totally maximize all of the potential therapeutic options and benefits of Rock Climbing Therapy in the most natural and efficient way. 


Rock Climbing Therapy - Facebook

Orange Buddha Boulder - Mickeys Beach - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Winter 2017 the main bouldering rock at Mickeys Beach known as The Orange Buddha Boulder or The Danger Boulder shifted on the sandy beach in the big wet storms. The boulder tilted to the south and east and seems to have slipped west, down and out toward the sea. Several problems are gone or drastically changed and all are different ratings now. Basically the problems on the north/nude beach side are higher but less steep and therefore easier now and the classic Orange Buddha Arete V8 and most of the problems to the right of it are now less than half as high, less than half as hard and way less than half as good. Only the Orange Buddha Face to the right of what was the Orange Buddha Arete is still high enough to be enjoyed and it is steeper and harder now ~ V4/5. The classic west face test-piece Bound By Tension was V11 but is now about V9 since the holds tilted and have become less sloper. The best new classic is the north east arete nicknamed "Plumass"? lol and is about V7.


Orange Buddha Boulder - West Face
(R to L)
1 ~V0/1 short overhanging juggy right arete.
2 Bound by Tension ~V9/10? sloper up steep prow right into #1.

Orange Buddha Boulder - North Face/Nude Beach Face
(L to R)
3 Peeping Tom ~V3
4 Diagonal Crack V1
5 Baseball ~V2
6 Don't Worry Be Snappy aka Wheel Well ~V3
7 Grace Face ~V3
8 Peeping Tom Traverse ~V4
9 Plumass ~V7 was The Changeling (~V4) variation to the left.

Orange Buddha Boulder - East Face
(L to R)
10 New Orange Buddha Arete ~V3
11 Orange Buddha Face ~V4/5
12 ~V1/2/3?
13 ~V6/7 low crimps sit.
14 ~V2/3 face left of arete.
15 ~V3/4 red boulder spire behind trail.


*classics lost or drastically changed;
Orange Buddha Arete V8 or V9 low left sit.
Orange Pleasure V4
Back in the Day V4
Bodhi Day V9
Dayo V6
Shark Sighting V10
Great White V8
Hammerhead V7
The Changeling V4

Mortar Rock Park - Berkeley CA - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Mortar Rock Park

Mortar Rock - Main West Face
(left to right)

1 V? high face!
2 Nats Traverse V8 low (l to r) low/below rail feature or Baby Nats V6 start at undercling in corner into #6 or Natural Nats V6/7 same start as Nats on slab at far left then use all holds/rail into #6.

3 Nats Crack V0 dirty crack corner.

4 Sunshine V5 sit bulge up right or Sunshine Eliminate V9 direct up left / right of #3.

5 The Brink / Brink of Disaster aka Black Plague V6 face left of #6 or Sun Plague V7 #4 into #5
or Black Sun V6 stand or White Sun V7 sit #6 into #4 or White Plague V7 sit start #6 up into #5.

6 The Ramp V4 stand start featured scoop or V5 sit or V8 sit #9 or Sun Ramp V6 sit #4.

7 Stans Traverse V8 Nats backwards or V9 sit start #9 or Jungle Stans V8/9 from #8+9 stand.

8 Jungle Fever V8 *eliminate - stay right of #6 - or Full Fever V10 sit #9 into #8. 

9 New Wave V9 stand or The Kraken V11 low sit start under bulge.

10 Marks Traverse V11 stand start jug same as #11 bust left into #7.

11 Don't Worry Be Snappy V12 jug start up over steep roof/bulge or Snappy Wave V11 #11 into #9 or Snappy Fever V11 #11 into #8.

12 Impossible Traverse V13 same jug start right into #13 - or Full Impossible Traverse/Mortar Rock Traverse Project V!!?? start #2??

13 Impossible Wall V8 stand start or Mission Impossible V9 low stand.

14 Chinese Connection V12 low sit start #13.

15 Egypt Air V9 #13 into high left finish or V13 sit #14.

16 The Odyssey V7 jump start V9 stand or V12 sit.

17 Beached Whale V6 bulge slab up into to face or crack.

18 Bench Crack V1 high dirty crack or The Scoop V4 low left sit.

19 Bench Wall V2 stand or V3 sit classic high face or Bench Arete V4 stand V5 sit.

20 Bench Corner V3 stand or V4 sit or V0/1 far right slab.

Mortar Rock - Sidewalk Boulders

(right to left)

21 The Hand Traverse aka Sidewalk Traverse V1 lip traverse up left over sidewalk.  

22 Pipeline Traverse V5 with foot ledge V6 without - low face traverse below lip (r to l).

24 The Boys Problem V5 sit or Rimshot V3 stand.

23 The Girls Problem V5 sit or V4 stand.

25 Little Half Dome V1 center face upper boulder or V2 face traverse.

______________________________________________________________________________

Grotto Rock Park (uphill from Mortar Rock Park)

Grotto Rock - Main West Face
(left to right)
1 Grotto Rock Traverse V3/4/5/6~
V4/5 right side - start on man-made rock wall on right side and traverse lip holds from right to left to top out at shelf in middle or V3/4 left side - sit start at shelf in middle and traverse along lip to the left to top out on pointy jugs next to bushy corridor or ~V5/6? full traverse right to left with contrived rest(s) midway - West Face.
2 short grungy sit starts/traverses on right side of West Face (needs cleaning)?

Grotto Rock - Backside North
(right to left)
3 slab/face right side of overhang (needs cleaning) - North Face
4 overhanging face (needs cleaning) go up or traverse left - North Face
5 face left side of overhang (needs cleaning) - North Face

Grotto Rock - Backside East
(right to left)
6 bulge up or left (needs cleaning) - East Face
7 mini bulge (needs cleaning) - East Face
8 face (needs cleaning) - East Face
9 traverse (needs cleaning) - East Face
10 short face (needs cleaning) - East Face


A few random fa's I've done in Berkeley that are not very well known:
Grizzly Peak
"Wandering Arete" V6 stand V7 sit (same low sit as for Scotts Arete) - stand start Scotts Roof (right of Scotts Arete) and angle up left into Scotts Arete to top out.
"Stinkbomb" V3 stand or V4 sit - right of Mikes Face/Mikes Problem on a small boulder to the south-west of the main cluster.
Pinnacle Rock/Remillard Park
"The Foolish Traverse" V3 start on far left of Pinnacle Rock same as for Remillard Traverse and traverse right past Bucket Prow up under the roof over the rocky landing all the way up right into steep pumpy jugs to the top of Pinnacle Rock.
Cragmont Rock
"Adventure Club Traverse" V2 sit start left side of small rock next to field/b-ball court/picnic bench gazebo and traverse the lip to the right to finish on the far right. *The crack features on this rock are used by local climbing guides to teach traditional gear placements and anchor systems.