Reptile Rocks

Reptilian V2FA

Reptile Rocks

left to right

1 Baby Lizard V2 FA=CS

2 Reptile Traverse V2 FA=CS

3 crack FA=?

4 face FA=?

5 V2 lip traverse l to r FA=RT

6 low left sit up left or up right into #7 FA=?

7 Reptilian V2R direct center seams FA=RT

8 V1 corner arete FA=RT

9 left sit(s) r to l up into #10!? FA=?

10 highball right face FA=?

11 !?

12 !?

Reptilian V2FA Ryan Tolentino - YouTube

Reptile Traverse V2FA - YouTube

THE BOULDER GARDEN

Boulder Garden - Mayacamas Mountains - Sonoma County CA

Blue VB-V0 -- Green V1-V3 -- Yellow V4-V6 -- Red V7+ -- Black = down-climb

The Sombrero - front face

1 "Microphone Traverse" V7 FA=CJ extension: Gold Nugget Traverse? V8!? FA=CJ

2 "Microphone Traverse Direct" V6 FA=CS extension: Gold Nugget Direct? V7!? FA=?

3 "Mayacama" V9 mid start or "Babycama" V4 stand start mini hueco FA=CJ or V10/11!? sit FA=?

4 ? arete/prow/roof V2/3 FA=? or "Sombrero Traverse" V5 stand start traverse right into Gold Nugget Mantle FA=RT

5 "Batman Beta" V5 FA=CJ+CS foot first toe hook roof/overhang

6 "Microphone Mantle" V2 FA=CJ

7 "Gold Nugget Mantle" V4 FA=CS

8 steep crack pad stash scrunchy hole thingy?

9 front faces(s)!?

10 front faces(s)!?

The Sombrero - back face

11 "Alone In The Woods" V5/6 FA=CJ

12 "Pit Pocket" V6 FA=KJ

13 "Pharaohs Lip" V4 FA=ED

14 "No Lemon, No Melon" V3 FA=KW

15 "The Cultivator" V5 FA=CS

16 "00" V5 FA=CS

17 "Flying Banditos" V6 FA=CJ

18 ? FA=CJ

19 ? FA=CJ

20 ? FA=KW

21 "Cultivator Traverse" V6 FA=CS

22 00 Traverse V6/7? FA=?

23 "Sombrero Arete" V1 sit start lowball left arete - step off on rock or traverse left to corner FA=CS

24 ?

25 ?

Jims Boulder

26 "Jims Traverse" V6 FA=JT

27 V5/6 stupid pocket start FA=CS

28 "Get Up Offa That Thing" V3 FA=ED

29 scoop thing FA=KW

30 pocket finish? / jims face? V3/4? FA=JT

31 "Jims Highball" V1? FA=JT

32 jug arete V0? FA=ED?

33 slab arete VB? FA=CJ

34 slab(s)?

35 slab traverse?

The Stoanhouse

36 "Stoaned Arete" V2 FA=ED

37 "Stoan Pecker" V2 FA=CJ

38 "Trust The Dust" V3 FA=KW

39 "Sprout" V2 FA=CS

40 "seedling"? right hand mono finger stack start V5/6? FA=?

41 "Garden Variety" V2 rail start or V3 dueling hueco start FA=CS

42 "Stoanhouse Traverse" V1 scoop start - or project sit? or pocket start? FA=CS

43 "Alley Traverse" V!? - r to l or l to r?? FA=?

44 highball knobby slab(s)!?

45 ?

!!??

46

47

48

49

50

Boulder Garden - YouTube Playlist

Indian Cave {aka Rattlesnake Rock}

{topo secret}

Bouldering

>Pullout Traverse V0 juggy wall next to pullout. FA=CS

>V1 traverse up left of pullout.

>Rainbow V4 pillar/face to drop off finish from edge at lip on far left side of cave. FA=CS/SElfstrom -or- finish farther up right on high ripple edge. V5 FA=MShaffer

>Indian Cave V4 start from big left hand pocket on left side of main cave over holes - start of old nail/aid ladder - mantle up into scoop. FA=CS

>Indian Cave Traverse V4 start start pocket the traverse right into ledge mantle. FA=CS/SWheeler

>Wappo Mantle V1 stand start scoop ledge and mantle onto ledge -or- Wappo Wall V2 low left start -or- Wappo Pinch V3 sit start low right side of steep wall on right hand pinch up into mantle top out. FA=CS

>Wappo Direct V4 center of short steep wall direct from right hand pocket and left hand edge. FA=CS

>Wappo Traverse V3 sit start on right and traverse jug scoop lip holds left to Indian Cave mantle. FA=CS/SWheeler

>Sitting Bull Direct V4 direct sit start - or Standing Bull V3 midway crimper rail start. FA=CS

>Sitting Bull V5 sit start - stay low through scoop from low right to left. FA=CS

 >Bull in a China Shop V6 stand start right small dihedral knee-bar go left across sloper rail into top of Sitting Bull. FA=MShaffer

>The Wrong Way V6 low start direct into Bull in a China Shop. FA=KMoore

>Holy Diver V4 start in hueco hole on far right, end above hueco at horizontal crack. FA=CS

>>mega bulge project - low start up right into Holy Diver!?

Routes

Lower Tier (roadside):

>On The Wagon 5.6 (aka Indian Face) 2 bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor on ledge FA=CS

>Off The Wagon 5.12 TR short headwall off ledge above On The Wagon - 2 bolt anchor. FA=CS

Upper Tier (left to right):

>far left hueco arete prow?

>short face prow?

>short roof prow?

>Holy Crap 5.7 3 bolt prow/corner to 1 bolt rap anchor. FA=TBanuet/CS

>The Hole Shebang 5.8 4 bolt face/corner to 1 bolt rap anchor + 1 bolt anchor (+2 rusty old ring bolts). FA=SEscamilla/CS

>roof face prow into The Hole Shebang?

Middle Tier / Main Face (left to right):

>Dragonfly Crack {aka Dragonfly} 5.9 trad crack lead corner to 2 bolt rap anchor - TR. FA=CDeraymond

>prow between crack and scoop?

>Rattlesnake Face {aka Rattlesnake} 5.10 ancient watercourse route - old (aid?) bolts and manky old historic fixed gear - 8 new bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor. FAA=(First Aid Ascent?) ? / FFA=(First Free Ascent=? CS?) 

>cave route(s)??

>far right face(s)??

>steep upper right headwall route(s)??

Alpine Rock

{topo secret history}

Alpine Rock

Main Face 

>Masochist Arete V1 sit start short right arete over rocky pit. FA=CS

>Masochist Traverse V4/5 left to right into arete or vice versa to no hands or link into left problems. FA=CS

>The Masochist V5 sharp crimp edges up vert wall to rail. FA=CS

>Alpine Rail V1 FA=CS

>Alpine Stem V1R FA=CS

>Alpine Edge V0/1R left hand arete over rocky landing. FA=??

>Alpine Chimney V0 easy way up/down. FA=??

>Alpine Traverse V2/3 start on left and traverse slab right to end in chimney or up arete. FA=??

>Alpine Traverse Direct V4/5 start on left and traverse slab right staying low to end in chimney or up arete. FA=CS?

>Alpine Arete V1 right hand steep juggy right arete. FA=??

>The Alpinist V1R or 5.10TR FA=??

>Alpine Crack V1R or 5.10TR FA=??

>?? V?? corner arete face thingy ~ needs cleaning. FA=??

>Alpine Offwidth V0R FA=??

>Alpine Roof 5.10/11? FA=??

>Alpine Prow 5.13TR? steep roof prow! FA=??

The Ledge

>Ledge Crack 5.9/10TR or V0/1R/X Splitter finger crack over bad landing. FA=??

>Ledge Corner 5.9/10TR or V0/1R/X Diagonal dihedral corner. FA=??

>Ledge Face 5.9/10TR or V0/1R/X Left face off ledge. FA=??

West Face

>?? V?? FA=??

>West Face Traverse V2 Traverse left to right ~20ft to end on no hands ledge. FA=CS

>West Corner 5.9/10? FA=??

>West Face 5.10/11? FA=??

Alpine Bloc

>Toothfairy V3/4 low sit start left side of arete up past tooth arete hold and up over the top. FA=CS

>Toothfairy Direct V1/2 start right side of arete and go up left past tooth and up over the top. FA=CS

>Moose Lip V1 sit start big rail (or V0 stand) and traverse lip right to top out at arete. FA=??

>Baby Moose V3 sit start big rail same as Moose Lip and traverse edges and rails below lip to the right to top out at arete. FA=MW

>The Moose V4/5 FA=CS

>The Full Moose Traverse V6? Start start Baby Moose and traverse right around Tooth Fairy arete into The Moose to finish. FA=??

>Project!? Sit start left of Tooth Fairy arete on crimps and bust a tough move up to rail and top. FA=??

Swallow Rock - Dos Rios/Mendocino County CA.

   

 

               

Swallow Rock - Main Face
(Potentially ~10+ sport/trad routes + ~100+ boulder problems.)

0000? short face/prow? ~25'?

000? short 3 bolt face to bolt anchor. ~35'

00 Swallow Crack V0R splitter highball boulder crack! ~25' FA=CS?

0? ~5.10? short face? ~25'?

1 Snakecharmer 5.11 short thin crack/trad lead or tr. Pro to 1.5" ~25' FA=CS

2 Green Slab 5.9 3 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~25 FA=JM/CS - ground up

3 Black Slab 5.11 7 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~45' FA=JM/CS - ground up

4 Eagle Feather Arete (aka Hard to Swallow) 5.12 7 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~45' FA=CS

5 Covelocos Corner 5.10 splitter dihedral corner crack/trad lead or tr - bolted A0 from the anchor of Black Slab and Eagle Feather Arete to 5.10 anchor. Pro to 3.5" ~55' FA=JG(tr)/KR(lead)

6? ~5.?? face/arete? ~55'?

7? ~5.?? face/corner? ~65'?

8? !?

9? !?

10 Swallow Traverse V0 traverse the base of the main face.

Swallow Boulders
Bomb Ass Dookie V4+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Can of Whoop Ass V5+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Bomb Ass Traverse V6+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Bomb Ass Arete V3+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Tricks Are For Kids V5 stand or V8 sit FA=CS-V5/KJ-V8 - or V8/9 low sit!?
Firestarter V4 sit start overhang on beach - V3 stand start (sand levels for sit start fluctuate - V6/7 when sand is high FA=MW) FA=CS/SB?
Firestarter Traverse V5 FA=CS
Firecracker V1
Jade Dome tilted/shifted - steeper and shorter now was V3 now V!?
Jaded V4 stand or V7/8 low start FA=CS-V4/RC-V7/8
Emerald Triangle V3 stand start face/arete or V5 sit or Gnar Gnar V7 low sit FA=CS
Shady Cave Traverse V6 FA=CS
Made in the Shade V5 FA=CS
Christal Gaston V4 FA=CS
Skywalker V3 FA=RE
? V3? right of Skywalker. FA=CS
The Blob V3R sit or V2R stand FA=CS
? stand into traverse rail. FA=CS
Uprising V5/6 FA=CS
? highball or tr or lead!? seam crack bulge!?
Skyhook V5 and Skyhawk V6 FA=RE-V5/CS-V6
R.T. V6 FA=RT
Elbow Grease V4 FA=CS
Jack Move V1 stand V2? sit FA=E?
Jackal Traverse V3? FA=CS
Apocalypse V6 FA=RT
Captain Crunch V2 or V4
Breakfast of Champions V2
Lumpy Face V0
Lumpy Traverse V1
V!? arete project
Eyes of a Tire Hub aka Unborn V8/9 inverted offwidth roof crack squeeze chimney! FA=EW
Don't You Want Knee Baby V3 inverted offwidth roof crack. FA=EW
VB/0
V0/1
V1/2
V2/3
V3/4
V4/5
V5/6
V8/9/10!?
!!??

Chuck B onsight flash second ascent of 

"Eagle Feather Arete" 5.12a (aka "Hard To Swallow")

Swallow Rock, Dos Rios CA.

Bay Area Lowball Bouldering

*DISCLAIMER: BOULDERING IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
When I'm teaching beginner and intermediate level climbers how to do basic "roped climbing"; set up top rope anchors, place protection and even do mock lead climbs in my guiding classes I always ask everyone if they do bouldering (bouldering is climbing without a rope near the ground). About half of my clients say no they don't boulder and this is odd to me because bouldering is how you learn and practice how to move over stone. If you can't move over stone and climb a 5-10ft tall boulder safely then roped climbing is going to be much harder and in turn, more dangerous. Too many people think bouldering is all about doing risky high boulders "highballs" with no rope obviously and taking big falls, but it is not only about that, bouldering can be done safely. I find it funny/sad how many of my friends and acquaintances do roped climbing (sport or trad) and do not boulder and even think bouldering is dangerous and kind of a thing for young folks or for daredevils when I think they are the crazy risk takers and basically ignorant to the reality of how dangerous roped climbing is. If something goes wrong roped climbing there is a huge chance you will die, if something goes wrong bouldering you might sprain an ankle or break a leg, which would you prefer? Of course no rock climbing is ever totally safe but neither is mountain biking or surfing or most sports. Hell, driving is usually more dangerous than the bouldering I do nowadays which is mostly "lowballs" over my 9 bouldering pads. Although I do a lot of first ascents which has its own risks involved, mainly breaking holds which has made me a master of pad placement to be prepared for a fall from anywhere on the problem since I've learned that even the most seemingly solid holds can break. Usually if a hold is going to break it is going to break the first time it is weighted on a first ascent, or soon thereafter, so I am kind of a crash test pilot/dummy lol.

It is possible to find and safely do boulders that are "lowballs" (lowballs are problems usually about head height up to about double the height of the person doing them) and usually have flat landings. With the use of pads/multiple pads placed in the correct places and moved by a spotter if needed, as well as using a spotter that knows how to spot and when to spot or get out of the way and not spot most lowballs can be done very safely and IMO are much safer than traditional climbing and even sport climbing and top roping. With roped climbing people feel safe but I feel it is a false sense of safety that leads to complacency - and complacency kills. With roped climbing if just one thing goes wrong; top anchor or lead protection gear failure, rope failure, harness failure, belayer failure, fall onto a ledge, pendulum fall, rockfall from above, broken holds, weather/rain or snow or hail storm, heat stroke, darkness etc.. if any one of those things goes wrong it could result in the need for a rescue, and/or a serious injury or death. Statistical probability simply adds into the equation and eventually your luck will run out or you will simply make a mistake and in roped climbing you usually have the ultimate risk of being paralyzed or very often certain death. In bouldering, especially near the car as many bouldering areas are, if pads and spotters are used properly and a lowball boulder problem is chosen wisely with a good/flat landing zone, and egos are kept in check and people are realistic about their abilities or lack of as well as their partners abilities or lack of, then most all of those risks that roped climbing has are minimized if not totally eliminated.

For me bouldering is the safest and most fun style of climbing and at the same time the most difficult and extreme - it is the most badass sport on Earth in my not so humble opinion - so go bouldering!! But if you get hurt don't blame me or usually anyone but yourself, it can be very dangerous, the most dangerous along with free soloing if not done realistically and safely. I have been bouldering up to V10 for 30 years with ~1000 first ascents under my belt and I have had nothing more than a few sprained ankles and wrists. If you do hurt yourself it is your own fault for not preparing properly and for not being ready for the problem you try and for not being real and honest with yourself - basically, you were unlucky and/or you were stupid and/or you suck :)

So, choose the location you want to boulder wisely, take the proper precautions and be truthful to yourself about your abilities and everything SHOULD be fine.

Check out V18 Rentals for bouldering pads if you don't own one or more.

And check out this video where Adam Ondra, the best all around climber in the world currently mentions that "bouldering is essential training for any kind of climbing, it is the base, everybody needs that" and for those of us that love just pure bouldering for the sake of bouldering it is a religion.
Adam Ondra - Road To Tokyo YOUTUBE

Here is a short list of some Bay Area/NorCal bouldering areas and boulder problems that are considered lowballs and/or considered less dangerous than most other problems in the area due to low height, flat or sandy landings and fairly easy top-outs and walk-offs or down-climbs:

Castle Rock has a few fun lowballs spread around Magoos and elsewhere from about VB-V10.

Indian Rock has some good lowballs on the roadside boulders and the slab across Indian Rock Ave ~VB-V6 with a few of my favorites being right over the sidewalk like "The Ape" V1-V3.

Mortar Rock has the classic lowball testpieces "Stans Traverse" V8 and "Marks Traverse" V11.

Turtle Rock has some lowball-ish problems and most of the traverse is very low to the ground and moderately hard ~VB-V6.

Stinson Beach has a lot of low to medium height problems with often flat sandy landings.

Goat Rock/Sunset Boulders have some good lowball problems in the front area ~VB-V6.

Super Slab has several lowballs in the V4-V8 range with "Super Slab" V6, "Abalone" V7, "Super Abalone" V8 and "Bulls on Parade" V8 being the main lowball classics. There are also a few good VB-V2 problems.

Sugarloaf Ridge has some good fun lowball problems in the VB-V6 range.

Vacaville/Nut Tree Boulders have some good lowball to medium height problems with flat landings.

Dos Rios has some good lowball problems in the VB-V8 range.

The Philosophers Castle

TOPOSECRET ~new~ Lake County volcanic boulders :)

Fractal Boulder
1 "Fractal Geometry"?
2 "Geometrix"?
3 ?
Playtos Slab
4 "?" V4 short steep roof behind main slab direct straight up. FA=RT or bail left. FA=CS
5 VB/0 slab left. FA=CS
6 "Wonky" VB slab chimney crack - or "Wonky Traverse" traverse from right sit start to left high or low.
7 "Playtos Slab" VB main highball slab prow - or direct slab face? FA=CS
8 "Playtos Traverse" VB/0 slab traverse high - or V1/2? low from sit of main slab prow? FA=CS
9 slab face right?
10 ?
11 ?
The Philosopher Boulder
12 "?" steep face over ledge. FA=RT
13 "Aristotle"? highball slab arete/prow?
14 "The Philosopher" V1 clean dike slab face. FA=CS
15 VB- slab corner crack. FA=CS
16 face right of corner?
17 ?
Socrates Boulder
18 "The Professor" V2/3 steep left bulge - or direct eliminate splitter finger crack bulge!? FA=CS
19 "Professor X" V2/3 steep center crack face. FA=CS
20 "Socratease"? V4/5 steep short right mid sit - or low sit!? FA=CS/?
21 "Mutant Traverse"?
22 ?
Fundamental Boulder
23 "Fundamental"?
24 "Snake Oil"?
25 ?