Photo = Adventuredoc.net
I've been healing an injured finger from crimping lately and I just wanted to share some of my findings on treatment and recovery that are helping me heal up and get back on the rocks. Mainly don't forget to stay hydrated, eat a good diet and stay positive of course. Warm up well and specifically for any moves that are unique to your current climbing regimen - if you are going to be crimping hard then warm up on easier crimps or if you will be pulling on small pockets then warm up on large to medium size pockets. Even train on a hang-board, system wall or rock gym a few days prior to cranking on the stone if needed.
These articles go into more detail;
RICE vs MEAT;
http://www.caringmedical.com/symptoms/meatvsrice.asp
http://www.thesportsphysiotherapist.com/rice-or-meat-protocol-for-acute-ligament-sprain-treatment/
Online Climbing Coach - Dave MacLeod;
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/11/avoiding-pulley-injuries-hard-and-easy.html
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/a2-pulley-injuries-review-re-posted.html
GOOD / BAD of finger taping;
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/FingerTaping.htm
http://adventuredoc.net/2008/12/19/rock-climbing-finger-taping-and-injury/
No comments:
Post a Comment