Friday, April 3, 2015

New Castle Zone FA's!

Sunnyvale Mountain + Biddles FA's 3/15!
***** = world classic / * = barely worthy

Drunk as a Skunk Boulder
original problems - l to r:
1 Skalawag V1/2*** - fa: md
2 Skalawag Traverse V2/3*** opposite the classic Poop Chute PirateV2/3**** - fa: md
3 Skalawag Mantle V3/4**  - fa: md
4 V3/4** short sit scoop pockets left side - fa=rs?
5 V1/2** crack corner low start - fa=rs?
6 Tall Bastard V8/9**** tough and possibly reachy left arete - fa: a?
7 V5/6/7/8/9!? traverse from Drunk as a Skunk left around Tall Bastard into V1/2/#5 corner - fa=!?
8 Drunk as a Skunk V6**** start in hueco and crimp and crawl up over bulge - fa: rs
9 V1/2*** pull over bulge on far right side - fa=cb?
10 V2**** lip traverse far right side - fa: rs/md

new fa's as of 3/15:
11 Funky Monkey V2/3*** sit or VB/0 stand - fa=cs
12 Drunk Monkey V3/4*** Drunk sit into Monkey top - fa=cs
13 Tall Drunk Monkey** V4/5 Tall Bastard left arete sit into Funky Monkey - fa=cs
14 Mantonian V3/4*** direct mantle stand - fa=jh
15 Mantonian Traverse? V4/5*** left sit into mantle - fa=cb
16 Newtonian Traverse V6/7** traverse low from #6 on far left to far right into V2/#10 - fa=cs
17 Lil Bastard V2/3* sit small boulder next to Drunk Skunk Boulder - fa=cb


*also some random new Biddles fa's as of 3/15:
18 Shake Hands With Beef V6/7/8***!? left low stand or low left sit trav into V9/10/11!? - fa=gzm
19 Blue Steel V6/7***** sit start Biddles Platinum then angle up right into Biddles Steel - fa=md
20 Twist and Shout V5*** sit start to Flap Your Wings - fa=jh
21 Flap Your Wings V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, high left top out - fa=jh
22 Flapper V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, right top out - fa=cs
23 Backstabber Arete Sit V6/7**** - fa=gzm
24 V6/7***? Copperhead into Zinc link-up - fa=md
25 ?
















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