Thursday, April 6, 2017

Knoxville, Lake County CA 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic



The Dead Forest
The Billboard
left to right:
1 Billy Jack V4/5**** steep far left face/arete or V5/6*** from #4 no hands corner start. FA=CS
2 Billy Jack Traverse V6/7** main face traverse #7 left into #1. FA=CS
3 direct left face!?
4 Billboard Crack V0R**** highball crack/corner. FA=CS
5 billboard crack direct?
6 billboard diagonal crack?
7 Billboard Traverse V2/3*** traverse main face usually right to left to no hands corner at base of #4 or V4/5 low. FA=CS
8 main face 1 bolt TR/highball project!
9 sharp broken right arete TR??
10 Hillbilly Traverse V2/3** start at arete and traverse up right into Hillbilly V1/2 FA=CS

Billabong Boulder
11 VB* easy way up/down.
12 V0** FA=CS
13 V0** FA=CS
14 Sumpn Easy V1*** FA=CS
15 Billabong V1/2*** FA=CS
16 V2/3** FA=CS
17 Lil Sumpn Sumpn V4*** traverse low left to right. FA=CS
18 Billabong Traverse V4*** traverse right to left. FA=CS
19 Fillabong?
20 ?

The Obshidian Spearhead Boulder
1 Obshidian Arete V2 left arete/lip traverse. FA=RS?
2 Speartip Face V3 FA=RS/CS?
3 right arete sit?
4 ?
5 ?

Billboard Creek
1 V1/2** FA=CS
2 V2/3** FA=CS
3 V4/5** FA=CS
4 ?
5 ?

Dead Forest
uphill from bottom to top:
1 V2/3/4? prow - above Billboard Creek by itself. FA=RS
2 ?
3 Deadpoint V1/2 dyno! FA=CS sit(s)!?
4 ?
5 ?
6 ? V0** scenic but mini sized low start on pockets to flat lip mantle - up/downclimb. FA=SL
7 The Snakehead Traverse V0*** 360 left to right or V1*** right to left. FA=SL
8 The Snakehead VB/0*** high slab face - or V0** right sit or V1*** left sit. FA=CS
9 Snake Pit V0/1** sit up left juggy hand and foot rails FA=CS - or V1**R top out direct!?
10 Cobra Kai V?R!? highballish! FA=!?
11 Dead Head?
12 VB/0*** FA=CS/EB
13 VB/0*** FA=EB/CS
14 ?
15 Life After Death V1/2**** center right diagonal slots to jug lip top out! - or Burnout After Death V2/3*** traverse right to left up into #15. FA=CS
16 Live After Death V!? left/center face!? FA=!?
17 Burnout Traverse V1/2**** left to right crack rail into #19. FA=SR
18 Burnout Direct V2/3** upper traverse into arete - or Burnout Direct Sit V3/4** direct low sit up into V2/3 - or Burnout Face Direct V4/5*** face left of arete to hueco or direct to top - V5*** sit. FA=CS
19 Burnout VB/0*** slab face. FA=CS/EB
14 ?
15 ?
16 ? V0/1*** low sit to face top out left or same as #17. FA=SL
17 Deadbeat Arete V2/3**** sit arete up left into jug face top out. FA-CS
18 Dead Souls V6**** right side of steep arete to jug lip. FA=CS
19 Deadbeat V4/5**** stand steep crack/seam FA=CS - or low start V7/8/9!?
20 Deadbeat Crack V0/1*** sit right diagonal crack. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 Mongo Boulder!?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?


The Bushwhack  Boulders
1 V4/5**** FA=CS
2 V5/6**** FA=CB
3 V6*** FA=CS
4 V1/2*** FA=CS
5 V0/1*** FA=CS
6 VB/0*** FA=CS
7 V2/3/4**? FA=CS
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20


Ecology Rocks aka Skinny Dip Rocks
1 V0*** FA=CS
2 V1**** FA=EB
3 VB/0*** FA=EB
4 V1/2*** or V2/3** FA=EB/CS
5 V1*** FA=CS
6 V0/1*** FA=CS
7 V3** FA=CS
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

??
??

??
??

??
??

Knoxville
The Devilshead
1 The Devils Buttcrack V0/1 stand or V1/2 sit FA=CS
2 Buttface V2/3 right of the Buttcrack FA=CS
3 left of buttcrack?
4 traverse?
5 The Devilshead V2 sit V1 stand - main face of spire over flat rock FA=CS
6 Devilshead Direct V3R highball side of spire FA=RT
7 Devilish V2/3 main face of lower boulder FA=CS
8 Devilish Traverse traverse lower boulder V3/4 FA=CS
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Point - Gunshot Rock
1 VB*** up/down FA=CS
3 V0/1** FA=CS
4 V1/2/3** traverse FA=CS
5 V0/1R arete FA=RT
6 V0R crack FA=RT
7 ??
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Point - Bullet Boulder
right to left:
1 Bite the Bullet V1** face. FA=CS
2 Siriji's Traverse V2*** slab/face - left arete to right arete. FA=SL
3 Siriji's Traverse Extension V3** start left arete traverse up right into #1 V1 face. FA=CS
4 ? left face/arete?
5 V1 direct high face. FA=AC
6 ? right arete?
7 Special Edition V4*** sit face/seam arete to sloper lip traverse left into #10 top. FA=CS
8 Limited Addition V5*** sit seam no arete traverse left top out direct. (~low sit!?) FA=AC
9 Magic Bullet V5*** low right hand undercling stand start. (~low stand!?) FA=CS
10 Flower Gun V4**** sit start compression edges over sloper lip ~ mini classic! FA=CS
11 ??
12 ??
13 VB/0* left mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=CS
14 VB/0* right mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=AC
15 ??




The latest pics at Bullet Point 2017:
Sirijis Traverse

Flower Gun

Magic Bullet




Lake County Bouldering Vids;
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4tJm8CpHuF5A3TN9BbiLtNSBNGXyY3ts






Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Top 15 Boulder Problems in the Bay Area - Spring 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic


"Grand Finale" (aka "Relentless"V10***** low sit start ("Living A Dream" V6***** stand or "Livin La Vida Loca" V8**** original sit start - Fort Ross -- FA: V6 Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel, V8 Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien, V10 Ryan Tolentino.

"Fort Rossta" V6***** sit start (V4/5***** stand) - Fort Ross or "Living a Nightmare" V7**** (V5/6**** stand )-- FA: V4/5 Marcos Nunez, V6 Richie Esquibel/Chris Summit?, V5/6 Jim Thornburg, V7 Chris Summit

"Eco Terrorist" V10***** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma

"Groundation" V7**** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Summit?

"Yabo Roof" V5**** - Castle Rock -- FA: John Yablonski

"The Classic" V3***** stand (V4**** sit start) - Castle Rock -- FA: Bruce Morris?

"Watercourse" V0/1R**** - Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman? 

"Nat's Traverse" V8***** traverse low or V6/7**** traverse high/all holds - Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale

"Scotts Arete" V5**** stand start (V6**** sit) - Berkeley -- FA: Scott Frye

"Bucket Prow" V0R***** juggy highball/TRBerkeley -- FA: Sierra Club?

"Hellspawn" V7***** sit start  or "Hell Awaits" V4**** stand (V8**** low sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: V4 + V7 Chris Summit, V8 Charlie Barrett

"Mother Nature" V2**** stand start (V3/4**** sit) - Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit

"Pelican Arete" V0/1R***** clean highball/TR - Sunset Boulders -- FA: Jordi Morgan?

"Little Wing" V9**** sit - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien

"The Flake" V1**** stand (V2*** sit) - Ring Mt -- FA: Russ Bobzien






A few of these I could swap out with so many other equally classic problems but for now these are the best IMO. These are also only the legit publicly accessible ~half of all classics found in the Bay Area.



Monday, March 20, 2017

The Best of Sunrise Rocks ~ Spring 2017

Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge CA.
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
{~many local variations and link ups~}



Main Rock
"Sol Chaser" V3 left face/arete direct on separate detached block over rocky landing! FA=RC

"Sunlight Arete" V0* far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS
"Direct Sunlight" V1*** sit or V0** stand - face right of corner left of arete. FA=DW

"Synchrodipity" V2*** sit or V1** stand - arete/prow/face - high easy finish. FA=CS/LB

"Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left or direct up right V2/3*** - start on big jug chunk. FA=CS

V0/1R*** (or 5.9/10*** TR) high face just right of Sundial and left of prow - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT

V1/2R*** (or 5.10/11*** TR) high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit! FA=HH/RT

"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** low sit on right hand compression arete left of start for Sunrise Face and traverse steep face left into V6*** jug rail start and right into V5*** jug chunk start same as Sundial then low left around prow into far left arete. FA=CS

"Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS

!? steep bulge mega highball/TR project!! FA=!?

"Sol Rebel" V5*** sit start center of high steep face on edges go up to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol Rebel Direct" V5*** start right on undercling traverse direct up left to jug drop off. FA=AC
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** start on Sunrise Face and traverse direct up right to jug drop off. FA=CS

"Sol" V1/2**** start undercling pull up around right arete step off at no hands slab rest. FA=CS
"Sol Sacrifice" V2**** traverse V0** over rocks far right into VB/0** arete to top of rock. FA=CS
"Del Sol" V2/3*** direct low scrunchy fun sit into Sol. FA=EB

"Solar Wind" V5*** low start edges center face traverse right to big undercling up into Sol. FA=CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start then traverse right into Sol. FA=CS

"Savasana" V6/7*** same low sit start as Sol Rebel and Solar Wind then traverse high right into Sol arete staying above the big undercling (or V6** stand start). FA=CS
"Savasana Traverse"? V7? start far left and traverse right into Savasana. FA=?

V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS

"Stashbox" V1/2*** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1** slab arete. FA=CS
"Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4*** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS


Dawn Boulder
"Common Ground" V6**** center/left slab face - start next to waterfall :) V4*** left stand start. FA=CS/AC

"Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V2*** high right hand arete/face over creek left of waterfall! FA=DW

"New Dawn Arete" V2*** start FDWMBP and go up halfway then traverse right around arete over waterfall into top out of The Student. FA=CS

"The Student" V5/6*** mid sit over waterfall or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2** stand. FA=A?


Sungazer Boulder
"Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW
"Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW

"The Dirty Joke(s)"? V!? bulge/face projects left or right of Sun God!? FA=?

"Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit start then traverse up right into V5*** stand start high bulge/face center/right side of steep main face. (V6**** mid start) FA=CS
"Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece!} direct right low sit up left into Sun God V5 stand start (or V9/10**** mid sit)! FA: KJ 1-16-17
"Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same sit start as Sun God then traverse right into Sol Gazer!? FA: ?

"Sungazer" V2**** classic stand start on perfect campus board size edges crank over bulge up into high easy slab corner or V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into stand start. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse" V6** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7* start same as V6 traverse but direct/no jug chunk. FA=CS
"Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start jug chunk traverse edges left into Sungazer stand. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer" V6**** mid start direct on prow with right hand sloper and left hand undercling chunk and power past a sloper and crimps into Sungazer stand start to top out. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer Direct" aka "Sungazer Direct" V9/10*** low sit start (V9**** mid sit) top out direct up right into "Sungazer Direct Stand" V4** stand start sloper prow - or up right into Sol Gazer. FA: KJ

"Finger Slayer" V4** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into edges and right into jug chunk and top out or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (right jug chunk is off) FA=EB


Sunshine Boulder
"Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS

"Dark Star Arete" V2/3** short left hand arete sit top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Dark Star" V3*** sit far right face direct (no left arete) top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as arete then go right up face direct into Dark Star. FA=TC

"Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS


Dwarf Star Boulder
"Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of short steep face to perfect lip mantle. FA=CS
"Dwarf Toss" V4/5*** double dyno!! FA=CS




The Sunrise Rocks - blog


Sunrise Rocks Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering 2017 - YOUTUBE







Monday, February 20, 2017

CLIMBING/BOULDERING PRIVATE LESSONS - Spring 2017

CLIMBING/BOULDERING PRIVATE LESSONS
I have 25 years of experience teaching climbing and bouldering indoors and out. I have redpointed 5.13, onsite flashed 5.12 and bouldered V10 outdoors as well as established over 1000 first ascents with 7 guidebooks to my credit. I love to teach and share my knowledge at local Bay Area rocks and rock gyms. I am currently a routesetter at Bridges Rock Gym. I specialize in physical and mental technique training such as; practicing safety first, reading a route, planning a sequence and movement drills. After taking a break from teaching for over a year I am ready to start again. My rate is $75 an hour but for this spring I am offering a $50 per hour deal. Hit me up to climb anytime!

My Amazon guidebook page:
https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Summit/e/B00J2IQ7V2/ref=sr_tc_2_0?qid=1454001198&sr=1-2-ent

Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Climbing is..

Climbing is a deeply rooted primal instinct that is much more than just an adventure or workout or sport. When nurtured, climbing can evolve into a holistic lifestyle, a therapeutic physical meditation, an outlet and an art. Aligning our consciousness with the natural flow of energy living inside of us and all throughout the universe we become one with ourselves as well as with our creator, mother nature.

Friday, January 27, 2017

My best~hardest Bouldering First Ascents 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic


"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** traverse - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Sun God" V7**** sit - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Jan 2017
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7** link-up - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Jan 2017
"Sol Gazer" V6*** stand - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Common Ground" V6*** high slab face - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Savasana" V6*** sit - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Feb 2017
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** left up to center drop - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Sol Rebel" V5*** center sit to drop - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Clay Pigeon Traverse" sit/traverse V4* Knoxville CA. Feb 2017
"Bite The Bullet" sit V4*** Knoxville CA. Feb 2017
"Siriji's Traverse Extension" traverse V3** Knoxville CA. Feb 2017