Friday, January 1, 2016

The Sunrise Rocks - Sugarloaf Ridge Park CA.

Sunrise Rocks
*=ok *****=world classic

Main Rock
Southwest Face - left to right:

1 VB easy way up down or V0 low start - or direct low face/arete? FA=?

2 !? right arete on separate detached block face over rocky landing? FA=!?

3 "Sunlight Arete" V0** far left arete or "Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS

4 "Direct Sunlight" V0*** stand or V0/1*** sit - face right of corner. FA=DW

5 "Synchrodipity" V2**** sit or V1*** stand. FA=CS/LB

6 "Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left into #5 or direct up right V2/3** - start on jug chunk. FA=CS

7 V1R*** or 5.10*** TR high face just right of #6 and left of #8 - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT

8 V1/2R*** or 5.10/11*** TR high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit!? - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT

9 "Sunrise Traverse" V4** stand or V5** sit or V7*** from #8 sit on steep arete - or V8***!? from #14 traverse face left around arete into V7 start up into #3. FA=CS

10 ? black streak - highball/TR!? FA=?

11 "Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS

12 steep bulge - start on#13 - mega highball project/TR!? FA=?

13 "Sol Rebel" V5/6*** sit start same as #15 drop from jug match or "?" V5 start on #14 and angle/traverse up left into Sol Rebel or V6** start #11 traverse up right into #13. FA=CS/AC

14 "Sol" V1/2**** start on big undercling up into #13 arete then traverse far right up into #18 VB/0*** arete - or "?" V2/3** direct low sit. FA=CS/EB

15 "Solar Wind" V4/5*** low start on edges in center of face traverse right to big undercling up into #14 - or "Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start same as #11 then traverse right into #15 - or "Savasana" V6*** same low sit start then traverse high right into #14 arete staying above the big undercling (or V5** stand start) - or "Savasana Traverse" V7***? sit start #11 into Savasana. FA=CS

16 V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW?

17 VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW?

North Face - left to right:
18 VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS

19 "Stashbox" V1/2** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1* slab arete. FA=CS

20 "Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS

Short Man Boulder
21 "Short Man Complex" V2/3/4* low direct sit or V1/2* lip traverse left or right sit - short boulder opposite #14-16. FA=CS/RT

Dawn Boulder
Southwest Face - left to right:
22 "Common Ground" V6 center/left slab face. V4 left stand start. FA=CS/AC

23 "Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V1/2*** high right hand arete/face over creek! FA=DW

24 "New Dawn Arete" V2** start #23 then traverse up right around arete over creek into #25 top out. FA=CS

Southeast Face:
25 "The Student" V5/6*** mid sit or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2* stand - downclimb V0 right. FA=CS/A

Mini Boulder
26 "Mini Face" VB/0 short kids climb face - next to trail uphill from #25. FA=CS

Sungazer Boulder
Southwest Face - right to left:
27 "Sunnyside Traverse" V1** right to left from #28 into #33. FA=CS

28 "Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW

29 "Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW

30 VB/0* easy bulge face direct into #31 top out.  FA=DW

31 VB** easy main groove - fun up/down-climb. FA=CS

32 "Sunnyside Up Traverse" V0/1** far left traverse into VB/0* short left bulge face. FA=CS

33 "Sunnyside Up" V0** low sit up bulge next to down-climb. FA=CS

Southeast Face - left to right:
34 "Resolution Arete" V3**** sit start high face/arete right side right of tree (V2** stand start) FA=CS - or V2** sit start up into left arete/face exit (V1/2** stand start into left exit). FA=DW?

35 "The Dirty Joke"? bulge/face project!? FA=?

36 "Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit traverse #34 up right into V6**** stand start bulge/face right side FA=CS - or "Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece} direct right low sit (or V9*** sit) FA: KJ 1-16-17 - or "Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same low start as #36 traverse right into #37/38!? FA: ??

37 "Sungazer" V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into V3**** stand start on perfect campus board size edges or "Sungazer Traverse" V6/7*** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out on #40 or "Sungazer Traverse Direct" V7** direct/no jug chunk - "Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start #40 traverse edges left into Sungazer stand - or "Sol Gazer" V6/7*** mid start direct on prow left of #37 stand start and right of #38 up into #37 top out. FA=CS

38 "Sungazer Direct" V9*** direct low sit (V8*** sit) up right into V7** mid start (V5/6*** stand start) direct out prow or top out right up into #37. FA: KJ

39 "Finger Slayer" V4*** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into campus edges then right into #40 or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (jug on #40 to right is off) FA=EB - or "Finger Slayer Traverse" V5/6** same sit then traverse left across edges (same as Sunblazer Traverse) into #37 top out. FA=CS

40 "The Chunk" V1/2** low sit start below jug chunks on far right - V0* stand start. FA=CS

Sunshine Boulder
Southwest Face - left to right:
41 "?" V2/3**? far left compression sit or V0 stand. FA=CS?

42 VB* very easy left face(s). FA=CS

43 "Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS

44 "Sunshine Face" V2** sit start center/right bulge face - or V1** stand start. FA=CS

45 "Sunshine Arete" V1/2** sit start right face/arete - or V0/1** stand. FA=CS

46 "Dark Star Arete" V2/3** far right - short left hand arete sit - top out or traverse off right. FA=CS

47 "Dark Star" V3*** far right face direct (no arete) sit - top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS - or "Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as #46 go right and up direct into #47 no left arete. FA=TC

48 "Sunshine Traverse"? V4/5? full traverse FA=? - sit #41 traverse right into #46/47 traverse finish!?
- or "Stupid Cupid" V4** sit start #44 then up right around arete #45 into #46/47 traverse finish. FA=CS

49 "Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS

Dwarf Star Boulder
South Face - left to right:
50 "Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of steep face up over left lip arete top out. FA=CS

51 "Scrunch n Munch" V3/4* low sit start right side to overhung mantle - V2* mid start to mantle. FA=CS

52 "Dwarf Star Arete" V1** sit start left arete traverse right into #50 top out or V2* into #51 mantle. FA=CS

53 V3* sit #51 and traverse left into easier top out on #50 - V1/2* mid start. FA=CS

54 V3/4* link #50 sit into #51 mantle finish. FA=CS

55 "Dwarf Toss" V4/5** dyno! sit low holds center steep face skip all upper face holds lunge to lip! FA=CS

















































Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering Reborn



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