Wednesday, March 6, 2013

sorta silly but cool new problem in Mill Valley "Cascade"

                                           Chris Van Leuven on Cascade.

"Cascade" V6 - YouTube 

Monday, January 28, 2013

lots of old and new vids on my youtube channels

I recently converted a lot of my 10-20 year old vhs-c and hi8 raw climbing footage of my friends and I to digital and just started putting a lot of it on my youtube channels;

Mrchrissummit ~ Summitorplummet YouTube

drunkenmaster777 ~ secretnorcalrockclimbing+!? YouTube



Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Top 12 secret/private north bay boulder projects



Here are, from what I've seen, heard and can remember and also in my opinion, the top 12 un-done bouldering projects that are secret/private in and around the North Bay Area. I can't include directions, you will have to find that out through word of mouth. Access to some of these areas is possible with permission of local climbers/friends/landowners but a few of these areas have continually changing access dilemmas. The areas with the dilemmas require you to talk to the local climbers about the current access issues before risking trespassing without permission and getting in trouble, blowing it for everyone else and maybe even getting deliveranced :-/ I have more I'm saving for myself of course ;) but these are most of the best and most difficult. There are also a few that I didn't find, clean and/or envision so I also left those out for now until the discoverer has a chance to try for the first ascent.

I have a list of the legit Bay Area bouldering projects along with the top 10 best boulder problems at each grade in my;
Top 10 Best Boulder Problems in the Bay Area.



Top 12 secret/private north bay area boulder projects, in no particular order, 0-5 star:
( the grades are a guess on my part and since i have only bouldered about v10 anything above that is massive speculation and it's all totally my opinions and the names are just nicknames for now of course, do em and name em! :)

*****full direct Mammoth Cave V11/12/13!? do the short but powerful 10ft v7/8 low direct center sit into any 5 of the 60foot long v7/8/9 original classics right into the 15ft steep and powerful v7 crux and past the end of the big cave into an upside down back against the wall no hands rest then do the 35ft v7 finish into the smaller cave - total = ~100+ft!!
MAMMOTH CAVE

*****full Mammoth Cave V10/11/12!? do any 5 of the 60ft long v7/8/9 original classics into the short v6/7/8 crux to the end of the big cave (V10/11 to here) then into the upside down back against the wall no hands rest and then do the v7 finish into the smaller cave for the full V11/12!?
MAMMOTH CAVE

*****direct Mammoth Cave V9/10/11!? do the short, powerful 10ft v7/8 low direct center sit into any 5 of the v7/8/9 original classics!?
MAMMOTH CAVE

***full Green Cave traverse V10/11/12!? start white widow v5 for the extra pump then do any of the main green cave traverses v5/6 and do "sit direct" which is a few hard drop down and set up moves that are about v8/9ish into kevin's sit v6/7 and then do the 50ft v3/4 traverse to finish - total = 100ft!
GREEN CAVE

***sit direct V9/10!? do a few hard low traverse moves that are about v7/8ish into kevin's sit v6/7.
GREEN CAVE

****Moonrise Arete V9/10/11!? left hand arete/face from start of kick me up right!?
MOONRISE

*****direct variations!? V11/12/13/14!?
SLITHER

****direct orange cave V13/14/15?!?
SECRETS

**saber-choong low V10/11!?
SECRETS

***corridor traverse V9/10/11!?
SECRETS

**fish slap traverse V9/10!?
SECRETS

****warrior project V7/8?R!?
GEYSERS




Thursday, January 3, 2013

Friday, November 30, 2012

Mt Tamalpais - Rattlesnake Creek Boulders (Bootjack / Ravine) 2012









PHOTOS: Martin Elzingre on Sammy's Throne Boulder, the newly developed Engine Bloc at the Lower Ravine and the Hobo Boulders at the Upper Ravine.



Bootjack Boulders (aka Intuition Boulders)
Bootjack Boulder (aka Intuition Boulder) [right to left]
1 "Bootjack Arete V2***** stand V3***** sit - right arete FA=CS / V7*** low sit FA=RA/BS
2 "Instinct" V4*** stand V5*** sit - right variation to the more direct classic Intuition FA=CS
3 "Intuition" V4***** stand V5***** sit - the direct classic line up center of steep face! FA=CS
4 "Between the Uprights" V3*** stand V4*** sit - highball left arete between trees FA=KA
5 "Bootjack Traverse" V5**** sit start left traverse low and right into right arete FA=CS / or "!?" V8!? low sit Bootjack Arete then traverse left into Between The Uprights - open project!

Cheech and Choss Boulder  [right to left]
6 V0* short face on far right FA=CS
7 "Cheech Marin" V1*** right stand start to Dave's Not Here FA=CS
8 "Dave's Not Here" V2*** stand start center face then up and right FA=CS / V6*** sit FA=FO
9 "Chong's Bong" V2** stand / V6**? sit start Dave's Not Here traverse up left into left arete FA=CS
10 "Bitches n Gravy" V3**? link up from left arete low sit up right into Dave's Not Here FA=CS
11 "Cheech and Choss Arete" V0*** stand V1*** sit V2*** low sit - left arete FA=CS
12 "Cheech and Choss Traverse" V4*** from left arete low sit high and right into V0 on far right FA=CS / or V!? low traverse project!?


Upper Ravine (aka Hobo Boulders)
? Boulder
13 "?" V4** stand/sit center face FA=KA
14 "Hobo Wreckless" V6** sit left traverse up right along low lip FA=RA/BS

Hobo Boulder
15 "Hobo Boulder" ?
16 "Hobo Boulder" ?

Small Slab
17 slab?


The Ravine
Ravine Boulder [left to right]
18 "Crumble Mumble" V6*** sit start with left hand notch and right hand undercling then go up over short bulge on far left side - V3** stand start FA=CS19 "Mt Tamil Tiger Turd" V8*** low sit start to #1 - same start as Bonum Vitae on low rail
FA = Max Zolotukhin 2012

20 "Locked Keys" V4** stand start center roof between #1 and #3 FA=CS / V!? sit start project!?
21 "Wicked" V9**** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low left side) same as #4 up right before turning left at the stand start then passing a w-shaped Vulcan grip then up left to top - stand start V4**** FA = Brett Shingu 2012
22 "Bonum Vitae" V7***** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then crank past sloper rail moves angling up right into stand start crack top out - stand start V1*** 
FA = Reid Augustino 2012
23 "White Knuckles" V7**** mid sit start on right hand slot pocket and low left hand undercling then angle up left into Wicked FA=CS / or V8***? from the low sit start (often over/under water or on branches) - open project!
24 "Tender Vittles" V5*** low sit start then up left into Bonum Vitae stand start or V2*** left mid sit start and go up into the stand start of Bonum Vitae FA=CS
25 V!? project - low sit start White Knuckles/Tender Vittles (on far right) then traverse down left :-/ across Bonum Vitae into the low sit start of Mt Tamil Tiger Turd (on far left) to finish!?
scrunchy and lame butt hard!!


Lower Ravine  {wet in winter}
Sammy's Throne Boulder (right to left)
26 V!? stand start right face direct? / V!? sit project! 
27 "Sammy's Throne" V5/6**** stand start left hand arete/face FA=KA/SB / V!? sit project!
28 "Centerline" V4**** low sit V3**** sit V2*** stand right hand arete/face FA=CS
29 V1/2** stand start center face FA=KA
30 "Flowmax" V4*** low sit V3*** low stand FA=CS

Crack Rock
31 high crack(s)!?
32 ?

The Engine Bloc [left to right]
33 "Internal Combustion" V1** stand start steep left face FA=CS or V!? low stand or sit project!
34 "Diesel Arete" V6*** sit V3** mid stand FA=CS
35 ? V? sit Diesel Arete then traverse right into short V0 face on far right (needs cleaning) project!



Mt Tam - Lower Ravine Bouldering 2012  YOUTUBE


All these areas and more will be covered in future editions of;  
Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO!