TOP 10 Best Boulder Problems in the Bay Area

John "The Verm" Sherman finishes off the Pelican Arete (V0 R) at the Sunset Boulders in Goat Rock State Park.
Photo: Summitorplummet



{Bay Area Bouldering Bucket List}
120 total = 10 at each grade VB to V10/11/12/13 + First Ascent / Project info!!
*All of these problems are at legit/publicly accessible areas in Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO.

VB
Split Slab VB R / 5.6 TR - Split Rock, Ring Mt -- FA: ?
The Split VB R / 5.6 TR - Split Rock, Ring Mt -- FA: ?
Transportation Crack VB - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Bucket Prow VB R / 5.6 TR - Remilard Park, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Slab Crack VB R - Rocklin -- FA: ?
Easy Way VB R / 5.5 TR - Glen Canyon -- FA: ?
Sunset Slab VB R / 5.6 TR - Sunset, Goat Rock -- FA: ?
Solo Arete VB X / 5.6 TR - Twin Coves -- FA: Mark Howe?
The Slab VB R - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
West Face VB R - Putah Creek -- FA: ?

V0
The Layback V0 (V1 sit) - Turtle Rock, Ring Mt -- FA: Bobzien Bros
Red Crack V0 R - Mickey's Beach -- FA: ?
Beginners Crack V0 - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Pyramid Crack V0 R - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Indian Crack V0 - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Pelican Arete V0 R / 5.9 TR - Sunset, Goat Rock -- FA: ?
Crack Face V0 - Rocklin -- FA: ?
The Flake V0 R - Granite Creek -- FA: ?
The Stonewall V0 - Woodcrest, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Charlie "Big Wall" Wyatt?
Heavy Metal V0 (V1 sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: Shawn Rogers?

V1
Mr Magoo V1 (V2 sit) - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Beach Face V1 - Mickey's Beach -- FA: ?
Killer Crack V1 R/X / 5.10/11 TR - Sunset, Goat Rock -- FA: ?
Watercourse V1 R - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Pegboard V1 R - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Bench Wall V1 R - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Jugs V1 - Glen Canyon -- FA: ?
Purgatory V1 (V2 sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: ?
Gimme My Forty Sucka V1 (V3 sit) - Hillcrest, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Sean Brady
Mother Nature V1 R (V3 sit) - Hillcrest, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit

V2
Hard Up V2 (V3 sit) - Sunset, Goat Rock -- FA: Jordy Morgan?
Sunset Traverse V2 - Sunset, Goat Rock -- FA: ?
Been There Done That V2 - Fort Ross -- FA: Marcos Nunez
Standard Route V2 - Stinson Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien
Green Face V2 - Turtle Rock, Ring Mt -- FA: ?
Nutcracker V2 - Woodcrest, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit
Farm Hill Arete V2 (Farm Hill Face V3 direct) - Farm Hill -- FA: ?
The Spoon V2 - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Honey Dipper V2 - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: ?
East Face V2 R - Granite Creek -- FA: ?

V3
The Old Man and The Sea V3 stand or Fingerbang V4 sit - Cliff House, San Francisco -- FA: V3 ? / V4 sit Kevin Kinnison + Benny Kong
Glen Park Traverse V3 - Glen Park, San Francisco -- FA: Mark Nichols?
Center Overhang V3 - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
The Flake V3 - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Mother Nature V3 sit - Hillcrest Rocks, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit
Brass Monkey V3 - Hillcrest Rocks, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit
Rug Rat V3 sit (V2 stand) - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Flakes V3 - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
The Classic V3 (V4 sit) - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: ?
The Green Monster V3 (V5 sit) - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Jim Thornburg?

V4
Fort Rossta V4 stand - Fort Ross -- FA: Marcos Nunez
Vise Grip V4 - Salt Point -- FA: Chris Summit
Bates Arete V4 - Castle Rock -- FA: Barry Bates
The Slap V4 - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Tree Route V4 - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Hell Awaits V4 - Putah Creek -- FA: Chris Summit
Heavy Metal Traverse V4 - Putah Creek -- FA: Shawn Rogers
The Ramp V4 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Kenny's Arete V4 (V5 sit) - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Kenny Ariza
Hoop Dreams V4 sit - Berkeley -- FA: Mike Papciak

V5
SHP V5 sit - Putah Creek -- FA: Shawn Rogers
Yabo Roof V5 - Castle Rock -- FA: John Yablonski
Hueco Wall V5 - Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Way Dubious Contortionist V5 (V8 sit) - Castle Rock -- FA: Dave Caunt?
Klinghoffer Traverse V5 - Castle Rock -- FA: ??
Turtle Rock Traverse V5 - Turtle Rock, Ring Mt -- FA: Russ Bobzien
The Bubble V5 - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA: ?
Scotts Arete V5 (V6 sit) - Grizzly Peak, Berkeley -- FA: Scott Frye
Scary Overhang V5 - Grizzly Peak, Berkeley -- FA: Jim Thornburg?
Boxcar Traverse V5 - Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Jim Thornburg

V6
Living A Dream V6 - Fort Ross -- FA: Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel
Fort Rossta V6 sit - Fort Ross -- FA: Marcos Nunez
Left Arete V6 sit - Fort Ross -- FA: Chris Summit?
Super Slab V6 - Super Slab -- FA: Marcos Nunez
Streamline V6 sit - Pomo -- FA: Chris Summit
ATF Traverse V6 - Mt Tam -- FA: Kenny Ariza
Gaston Problem V6 sit (as of 1/1/13 it is covered in a log jam) - The Bar -- FA: Chris Summit?
Coz Daddy V6 - Castle Rock -- FA: Charlie Shreck/Scott Cosgrove
Lost Key's Traverse V6 (V4 up) - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Bloch/Jeremy Meigs
Bates Problem V6 - Castle Rock -- FA: Barry Bates

V7
Abalone V7 - Super Slab -- FA: Chris Summit
Living A Nightmare V7 - Fort Ross -- FA: Jim Thornburg/Chris Summit
Ganesh V7 - Pomo -- FA: Chris Summit
Procrastination V7 sit - Mt Tam -- FA: Kenny Ariza
Groundation V7 - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma?/Jeremy Meigs?//Chris Summit(cleaned or re-cleaned)/Charlie Barrett(sit)?
Nature Nazi Arete V7 (V8 sit) - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: ?
Bonum Vitae V7 - Mt Tamalpais -- FA: Reid Augustino
Right Hand Man V7 - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma/Obe Carrion?
Natural Nat's V7 (Nat's with all holds/upper jug rail at start) - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale?
The Great Stone Face V7 sit (V4 stand) - Little Yosemite, Berkeley -- FA: V4 Jim Thornburg + V7 Phil Heller

V8
Nat's Traverse V8 (or Stan's/Nat's Backwards V8) - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale
Impossible Wall V8 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman
Living La Vida Loca V8 - Fort Ross -- FA: Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien?
The Shazinky V8 - Fort Ross -- FA: Richie Esquibel
Rossta Traverse V8 - Fort Ross -- FA: Chris Summit
Super Abalone V8 - Super Slab -- FA: Chris Summit
Orange Buddha Arete V8 - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien
Way Of the Wah V8 - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien
Hellspawn V8 matched hand sit start (V7 original spread eagle start) - Putah Creek -- FA:  V7 Chris Summit + V8 Charlie Barrett
Welcome to Whinecountry V8 - Putah Creek -- FA: Mike Papciak

V9
Grand Finale V9 - Fort Ross -- FA: Ryan Tolentino
Deforestation V9 - Castle Rock -- FA: Obe Carrion/Chris Sharma?
Sharma Arete V9 - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma
Wicked V9 - Mt Tamalpais -- FA: Brett Shingu
Welcome To Hell V9 low start to Welcome To Whine Country V8 - Putah Creek -- FA: Bryan Kelly
New Wave V9 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Greg Loh/Randy Puro/Mike Papciak?
Mission Impossible V9 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman
Scott's Traverse V9 low - Hillcrest, Vacaville/Nut Tree -- FA: Scott Frye
Clam Digger (aka Clam Traverse) V9 - Indian Rock, Castle Rock -- FA: C Sharma/Jeremy Meigs?
Livin La Vida Smoka V9 - Fort Ross -- FA: Chris Summit

V10-V13 (top 12)
Eco Terrorist V10 - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma
Relentless V10 - Fort Ross -- FA: Ryan Tolentino
The Hard Traverse V10 - Sunset, Goat Rock -- FA: Marcos Nunez
Are You Experienced V10 - Stinson Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien
Manitou V11 - Stinson Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien
Bound By Tension V11 - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Frankie Ocasio
The Kraken V11 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Greg Loh
Bay View Crimp V11 - Mt Tamalpais -- FA: Max Zolotukhin
Bay View Pinch V11 - Mt Tamalpais -- FA: Mark Heal
Don't Worry Be Snappy V12 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Tom Richardson
Chinese Connection V12 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Greg Loh
The Impossible Traverse V13 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Chris Sharma



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{{UPDATE - JANUARY 2016}}
New problems have been done! Here are 12 proud new additions to the best of the Bay:

Biddles Platinum V4 stand V5 sit - Castle Rock/Biddles -- FA: CB/CS
Biddles Steel V5 stand / Blue Steel V7 sit - Castle Rock/Biddles -- FA: CB/MD
Big Boss Man V3 stand V4 traverse - Castle Rock/Indian Rock -- FA: CB
Favors Undertakings V2 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail -- FA: DW
Rosacrucian V4 sit - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail -- FA: CS
Piano Man V7 sit - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail -- FA: CS
Resolution Arete V3 sit - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks -- FA: CS
Sungazer V6 sit - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks -- FA: CS
Ghost Dance V11r - Mendocino/Untamed Rocks -- FA: GT
High Tide, Low Tide V13 - Salt Point/Secrets -- FA: GT
Bushwhacker Roof V8 or V9 direct - Sunol Park/Indian Joe Caves -- FA: MD
Indian Joe V3 sit - Sunol Park/Indian Joe Caves -- FA: ?

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:)*Projects!?
"Full-Mortar Rock Traverse?" V14/15!? Nat's Traverse (V8) with the Mark's Traverse extension (V11) into Impossible Traverse (V13) - the obvious, waiting to go, much more "impossible traverse" for the future!!
BERKELEY

"Marks-Impossible Traverse?" V14!? Mark's Traverse extension (V11) into Impossible Traverse (V13) - obvious and waiting to go!
BERKELEY

"?" V12/13/14//not even possible!?? insanely sloper bulge/face, right of tree, right of Groundation!?
CASTLE ROCK

"Stoner Cave?" V12/13/!? sit start in the back of the cave and angle up right along the steep overhanging cave face right of the crack up into the semi-classic Swinger (V5) to finish.
AQUARIAN VALLEY

"Super-Funk Traverse?" V10/11!? Super Abalone (V8) into the semi-contrived (5.6/VB) no-hands but must stay low rest corner into Renegades of Funk (V9 may be harder since holds have broke)!? SUPER SLAB

"Numb-Norris?" V9/10? a possibly possible link up of Numbchuck (V7/8) reverse into Chuck Norris (V7)?
SUPER SLAB

"Old Wounded Man?" V9/10? full traverse from out of cave up into face right of finger crack and left of dirty corner!?
CLIFF HOUSE

"Full-Wounded Knee" V8/9? full traverse from out of cave!?
CLIFF HOUSE

"?" V8/9? pocket face below Sticky Green Traverse!?
CASTLE ROCK

"Old Man and The Sea Face" aka "Fingerface" V7/8? face right of finger crack and left of dirty corner!?
CLIFF HOUSE

{{Top 10 secret/private Bay Area bouldering projects}}




*THE TOP 12 BEST BAY AREA BOULDER PROBLEMS OF ALL TIME!
(all grade levels - in no particular order,,  in my humble opinion)

"Eco Terrorist" V10 - Castle Rock State Park -- FA: Chris Sharma

"Groundation" V6/7 stand (or V7/8 sit) - Castle Rock State Park -- FA: Chris Sharma/Jeremy Meigs/Chris Summit/Charlie Barrett??

"Yabo Roof" V5 - Castle Rock State Park -- FA: John Yablonski

"The Classic" V3 stand (or V4 sit start) - Castle Rock State Park -- FA: Bruce Morris?

"Watercourse" V0/1 R (V1-V6 variations) - Indian Rock, Berkeley -- FA(boulder): John Sherman?

"Nat's Traverse" V8 - Mortar Rock, Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale

"Hellspawn" V7 bear hug sit start or V8 matched low sit start (+ "Hell Awaits" V4 stand or V5 low/mid stand) - Putah Creek -- FA: V4 + V5 stands V7 sit Chris Summit, V8 low sit Charlie Barrett

"Pelican Arete" V0 R - Sunset Boulders, Goat Rock State Park -- FA: Jordi Morgan?

"Fort Rossta" V4 stand (or V6 sit) - Fort Ross -- FA: V4 stand Marcos Nunez, V6 sit Chris Summit?

"Grand Finale" V9 (or "Living A Dream" V6 stand or "Livin La Vida Loca" V8 original sit start or or "Living La Vida Loca" V9 or "Relentless" V10 link up into traverse) - Fort Ross -- FA: V6 stand Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel, V8 sit and V9 traverse Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien, V9 + V10 low sit and traverse Ryan Tolentino!

"Little Wing" V9 sit - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien

"The Flake" V1 stand or V2 sit - Turtle Rock -- FA: V8 Russ Bobzien



Check out the color print guidebook to bouldering in and around the incredibly scenic and diverse San Francisco Bay Area:

Bay Area Bouldering includes over 700 boulder problems within a 2 hour drive of San Francisco. All the classic spots are in this book: Castle Rock, Indian Rock, Mickey's / Stinson Beaches and Ring Mt as well as a number of lesser known spots on the North Coast and inland like Putah Creek, Vacaville and Rocklin and The Bar near Sacramento. Sandstone, Schist, Rhyolite, Basalt and Chert are the most prevalent types of stone and each offers its own very unique experience. This book includes everything from cruiser jug hauls and crimpy nightmares on sandy beaches to sloper wrestling in lush redwood forests. Author Chris Summit personally solved many of the problems to ensure the accuracy of the information.

Bay Area Boudering by SUPERTOPO