Sunrise Rocks ~random pics

The Best of Sunrise Rocks ~ Spring 2017

Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge CA.
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
{~many local variations and link ups~}



Main Rock
"Sol Chaser" V3 left face/arete direct on separate detached block over rocky landing! FA=RC

"Sunlight Arete" V0* far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS
"Direct Sunlight" V1*** sit or V0** stand - face right of corner left of arete. FA=DW

"Synchrodipity" V2*** sit or V1** stand - arete/prow/face - high easy finish. FA=CS/LB

"Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left or direct up right V2/3*** - start on big jug chunk. FA=CS

V0/1R*** (or 5.9/10*** TR) high face just right of Sundial and left of prow - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT

V1/2R*** (or 5.10/11*** TR) high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit! FA=HH/RT

"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** low sit on right hand compression arete left of start for Sunrise Face and traverse steep face left into V6*** jug rail start and right into V5*** jug chunk start same as Sundial then low left around prow into far left arete. FA=CS

"Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS

!? steep bulge mega highball/TR project!! FA=!?

"Sol Rebel" V5*** sit start center of high steep face on edges go up to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol Rebel Direct" V5*** start right on undercling traverse direct up left to jug drop off. FA=AC
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** start on Sunrise Face and traverse direct up right to jug drop off. FA=CS

"Sol" V1/2**** start undercling pull up around right arete step off at no hands slab rest. FA=CS
"Sol Sacrifice" V2**** traverse V0** over rocks far right into VB/0** arete to top of rock. FA=CS
"Del Sol" V2/3*** direct low scrunchy fun sit into Sol. FA=EB

"Solar Wind" V5*** low start edges center face traverse right to big undercling up into Sol. FA=CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start then traverse right into Sol. FA=CS

"Savasana" V6/7*** same low sit start as Sol Rebel and Solar Wind then traverse high right into Sol arete staying above the big undercling (or V6** stand start). FA=CS
"Savasana Traverse"? V7? start far left and traverse right into Savasana. FA=?

V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS

"Stashbox" V1/2*** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1** slab arete. FA=CS
"Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4*** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS


Dawn Boulder
"Common Ground" V6**** center/left slab face - start next to waterfall :) V4*** left stand start. FA=CS/AC

"Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V2*** high right hand arete/face over creek left of waterfall! FA=DW

"New Dawn Arete" V2*** start FDWMBP and go up halfway then traverse right around arete over waterfall into top out of The Student. FA=CS

"The Student" V5/6*** mid sit over waterfall or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2** stand. FA=A?


Sungazer Boulder
"Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW
"Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW

"The Dirty Joke(s)"? V!? bulge/face projects left or right of Sun God!? FA=?

"Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit start then traverse up right into V5*** stand start high bulge/face center/right side of steep main face. (V6**** mid start) FA=CS
"Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece!} direct right low sit up left into Sun God V5 stand start (or V9/10**** mid sit)! FA: KJ 1-16-17
"Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same sit start as Sun God then traverse right into Sol Gazer!? FA: ?

"Sungazer" V2**** classic stand start on perfect campus board size edges crank over bulge up into high easy slab corner or V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into stand start. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse" V6** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7* start same as V6 traverse but direct/no jug chunk. FA=CS
"Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start jug chunk traverse edges left into Sungazer stand. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer" V6**** mid start direct on prow with right hand sloper and left hand undercling chunk and power past a sloper and crimps into Sungazer stand start to top out. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer Direct" aka "Sungazer Direct" V9/10*** low sit start (V9**** mid sit) top out direct up right into "Sungazer Direct Stand" V4** stand start sloper prow - or up right into Sol Gazer. FA: KJ

"Finger Slayer" V4** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into edges and right into jug chunk and top out or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (right jug chunk is off) FA=EB


Sunshine Boulder
"Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS

"Dark Star Arete" V2/3** short left hand arete sit top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Dark Star" V3*** sit far right face direct (no left arete) top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as arete then go right up face direct into Dark Star. FA=TC

"Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS


Dwarf Star Boulder
"Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of short steep face to perfect lip mantle. FA=CS
"Dwarf Toss" V4/5*** double dyno!! FA=CS




The Sunrise Rocks - blog


Sunrise Rocks Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering 2017 - YOUTUBE

CLIMBING/BOULDERING PRIVATE LESSONS - Spring 2017

CLIMBING/BOULDERING PRIVATE LESSONS
I have 25 years of experience teaching climbing and bouldering indoors and out. I have redpointed 5.13, onsite flashed 5.12 and bouldered V10 outdoors as well as established over 1000 first ascents with 7 guidebooks to my credit. I love to teach and share my knowledge at local Bay Area rocks and rock gyms. I am currently a routesetter at Bridges Rock Gym. I specialize in physical and mental technique training such as; practicing safety first, reading a route, planning a sequence and movement drills. After taking a break from teaching for over a year I am ready to start again. My rate is $75 an hour but for this spring I am offering a $50 per hour deal. Hit me up to climb anytime!

My Amazon guidebook page:
https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Summit/e/B00J2IQ7V2/ref=sr_tc_2_0?qid=1454001198&sr=1-2-ent

Climbing is..

Climbing is a deeply rooted primal instinct that is much more than just an adventure or workout or sport. When nurtured, climbing can evolve into a holistic lifestyle, a therapeutic physical meditation, an outlet and an art. Aligning our consciousness with the natural flow of energy living inside of us and all throughout the universe we become one with ourselves as well as with our creator, mother nature.

My best~hardest Bouldering First Ascents 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic


"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** traverse - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017

"Sun God" V7**** sit - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Jan 2017
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7** link-up - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Jan 2017
"Sol Gazer" V6*** stand - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017

"Common Ground" V6*** high slab face - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Savasana" V6*** sit - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Feb 2017

"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** left up to center drop - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Sol Rebel" V5*** center sit to drop - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Clay Pigeon Traverse" sit/traverse V4* Knoxville CA. Feb 2017
"Bite The Bullet" sit V4*** Knoxville CA. Feb 2017
"Siriji's Traverse Extension" traverse V3** Knoxville CA. Feb 2017

My best 16 first ascents 2016

Sungazer Traverse V7
Sungazer V6
Raindance Traverse V6
Mad Max V6
Goforth Arete V6
Sun God V6
Pothead Traverse V6
Spirit Bear V5
Cricket Face V4
Road Warrior V4
The Ritual V4

Climestone Cowboy 5.12a
Climestoned 5.11a
Bam Bam 5.10d
Flintstoned 5.10c
Rhinestoned 5.10b

Green Cave TOPO SECRET

The Green Cave aka Killer Green Cave
TOPO SECRET ~private~ Mayacamas Mountains, Sonoma County, CA.

* = below average / ***** = world classic - left to right:

1 White Widow V5*** scary far left steep roof with sketchy cliff edge landing zone CB
2 Green Heart V3*** scary jug line over tree with sketchy cliff edge landing zone CS
3 Green Traverse V5**** high into #8+#18, V6*** low into #8+#18, V7**** low into #11+#18 CS
4 Killer Green Traverse V7** #1 then high into #8+#18, V7/8** #1 then low into #8+#18,                 or 5.13/V8*** #1 then low into #11+#18 for the full length 100ft mega enduro link up! CS
or mega project ~~ V9/10/11? start #3 into #12 project!?
or V10/11/12? start #4 into #12 project!!??
5 Bobzien Machine V6*** sit start between #2 and #6 and go direct up steep roof RB
6 Green Machine V4*** low sit up into knee bar hole up left to #2 or Green Machine Direct V3*** up right to low pocket or Green Monster V4** stand start up to hueco or V5*** sit to hueco CS
7 Nicks Problem V3** dirty green jug line NL
8 Green Cave Direct V3*** stand start horns in center cave up right to big hueco CS
9 Verms Variation V4*** stand start mini hueco/#11 up left to big hueco V5*** sit JS
10 The Funk V4*** stand start mini hueco/#11 direct up left to big hueco V5*** sit CS
11 KGB V4**** stand or V5**** sit - original classic - up steep face on right side of cave from mini hueco past pocket to big horns drop off or traverse right into #18 to add a grade. JC?/CS
12 Kevins Problem V7*** low sit KJ or project V8/9? sit #11 into #12!?
13 Seans Problem V3*** sit SB
14 Seans Problem Direct V5** sit right variation SB
15 Mean Green Traverse V7** sit #12 traverse left low into #2 CS
16 Charlies Traverse V7** #15 into #1? CB
17 Nectar Traverse V5*** sit #11 traverse left high into #2 or V6** sit #12 CS
18 Upper Traverse V3*** full stand - high V4** low - into #21 CS
19 Warm Upper Traverse V2/3*** mid sit - high V3/4** low - into #21 CS
20 Green Velvet V2/3/4** stand/sit start above #19 CS
21 The Warm Upper V0/1*** stand jugs up right walk off or traverse jugs low V2/3** JC/CS?
22 Hair Tie V4/5*** sit steep face up into #21 CS
23 Hair Tie Traverse V5** sit #22 then traverse jugs low right CS
24 Simple Green Direct? V1/2/3** separate face on far right CS
25 Simple Green? V2/3/4** separate face on far right KA