Thursday, May 11, 2017

Mark West / Safari West - Porter Creek

Secret Santa Rosa local rocks ~ word of mouth only ;)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Tombstone Rock
*Main Face - left to right:
1 Tombstone Arete 5.11a*** left arete finish or direct right face rail ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=DS
2 Tombstone Face 5.12a*** right face up left into run out rail finish ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=CS/SR
3 5.11+** right face to lone anchor. FA=DS
4 5.10* right arete - top rope or highball/solo. FA=DS
Traverse Face - right to left:
5 Tombstone Traverse V3**** right to left around low bulge up into V0** jug finish. (V3 into old overgrown far left finish and with extra far right old overgrown start/finish~) FA=DS
6 V1/2 far left uphill old overgrown face climb(s). FA=DS
7 The Hunger V6**** low sit start up right into arete - Tombstoned V5*** arete sit or V4*** stand start - up right top out on jug ledge in corridor - or top out up into #4 arete highball/solo (often overgrown*). FA=CS
Grave Cave
8 Grave Cave Arete V2** sit start left arete. FA=?
9 Grave Cave V6**** sit start center of steep cave. FA=DS
10 Grave Cave Traverse V4*** sit right to left arete or sit left arete into top of #9. FA=CS
11 V5/6/7? low traverse right to left up into left face? FA=?
12 V5/6/7? low traverse right to left into arete? FA=?
Tombstone Boulders
13 Knob Arete V1*** sit start. FA=DS
14 V0* slab. FA=DS
15 Crystal Prow V0** sit start mantle over or V1* traverse. FA=DS

Stagecoach Rock
*left to right:
1 Stagecoach Traverse V1/2/3 traverse. FA=DS
2 LSD V4/5/6 FA=CS
3 V2/3/4? FA=DS
4 V0/1 FA=DS
5 V5 FA=RS
6 V5 FA=CB
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

Postwood Boulders
1 Postwood Traverse V2/3? FA=RT
2 V5 FA=RT
3 V0/1 FA=CS
4 V1/2 FA=RT
5 V2/3 FA=RT
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

The Backyard Boulders
Safari Boulder
1 V1 slab. FA=AC
2 Safari Arete V2/3 sit start arete. FA=CS
3 Safari West V5 sit start left or Safari Direct V6 sit direct no aretes. FA=AC
4 Safari East V5 right variation. FA=CS
5 V0 warm up lip traverse. FA=AC/CS
6 V1 overhung prow! FA=AC
Spider Boulder
7 Spider Senses V6 low sit start lip/arete up left into Spider Party. FA=CS
8 Spider Party V5 sit start V4 stand. FA=CS
9 Span The Man V6 low stand up left into #10 - or direct V5 up right - or sit!? FA=AC
10 ? V1 stand. FA=SR
11 V1 slab traverse up right under tree to end on top of #9+10. FA=CS
12 V5 sit start traverse up right into #11. FA=CS
13 V5 sit start traverse right and up into #14. FA=AC
14 V2 sit start on input jug and go up scoop face to jug slab top out. FA=AC
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
Creek Boulder
20 ?
Lone Boulder
21 ?
22 ?
Epoxy Boulder
23 Epoxy Classic V4 or low sit - original old school classic! FA=?
24 Natural Line V5 low stand or V3 stand start. FA=CS?
25 V3 jump start campus bulge - or sit start project!? FA=AC/CS
26 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=AC/CS
27 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=CS
28 Warmup Down-climb V4 sit start direct or V3/4 right - V1 stand start/down-climb. FA=AC/CS
29 Slithering Fear V0R highball slab ~ multi pitch bouldering! FA=RA
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Wind Tunnel Boulders - Sedona AZ

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Wind Tunnels / Wind Caves
1 roof crack!?
2 roof crack!?
3 ??

Warm Up Zone
4 VB* slab.
5 Lil Dog V0** sit short left arete. FA: JKM
6 Dog Party V3*** sit short right arete. FA: JKM
7 VB/0* face.
8 ??

Patchouli Boulder
Backside Roof - L to R:
9 Pioneers Progress V2*** traverse lip/crack up right to top. original classic. FA: KW
10 Pup and Mallard V5*** face up into top of #9. FA: JKM
11 ??

Main Face - L to R:
12 VB slab downclimb~ 
13 Slather Ass V0** crack start up face left to #12 slab. FA: JK/CS
14 ? V0/1*** crack. FA: JKM
15 Patchouli Baby V6**** sit start center pocket face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
16 Egyptian Goddess V6**** sit start #15 up right face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
17 ? V5*** stand. Sit #15 ~V6? FA: JKM
18 Wind Chime Traverse V4*** sit #15 pocket traverse left up into #13. FA: CS
19 ??

Jason Kevin Moehlman on "Egyptian Goddess" V6FA

Endless Boulder
Main Face L to R:
20 Endless Beaches V5**** stand start. FA: ID
21 Winds of Change V4*** face. FA: CS
22 Squeeze Job V4** short face between rocks. FA: CS
23 ??

24 Earth Wind and Fire V6*** roof-lip-arete-jug ~ step off. FA: CS
25 E.W.a.F. Extension!?
Me on "Earth Wind and Fire" V6FA with Kahuna :)

Monday, April 24, 2017

Cougar Crag

Secret Santa Rosa local crag ~ word of mouth only :)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

1 slab?
2 ?
3 ?
4 hand crack?
5 ?
6 ?
7 "Cougartown" V3/4 FA=CS
8 ?
9 "Cat Woman" V1/2 FA=M
10 "Cat Woman Traverse"?
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 V2/3 FA=CS
16 high compression prow!?
17 ?
18 "Bat Wing" V1 right arete. FA=CS
19 "Bat Mantle" V4/5 traverse into mantle. FA=ST
20 "Bat Mantle Traverse" V4/5 traverse left to right. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 ?

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Knoxville, Lake County CA 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

The Dead Forest / The Billboard
The Billboard
left to right:
1 Billy Jack V4/5**** steep face/arete or V5/6*** from #4 no hands corner start. FA=CS
2 Billy Jack Traverse V6/7** main face traverse into steep face/arete. FA=CS
3 direct face!?
4 Billboard Crack V0/1R**** highball crack/corner. FA=CS
5 billboard crack direct?
6 billboard diagonal crack?
7 Billboard Traverse V2/3*** traverse main face usually right to left to no hands corner at base of #4 or V4/5 low. FA=CS
8 main face 1 bolt TR/mega-highball project! FA=!?
9 sharp broken arete TR??
10 Signpost Traverse V2/3** start at arete and traverse up right into The Signpost V1/2 or V4/5** traverse main face left to right into V2/3. FA=CS
11 The Signpost V1/2** far right uphill face. FA=CS
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?

Billboard Creek
1 VB/0** FA=CS
2 V0/1** FA=CS
3 V1/2** FA=CS
4 V2/3** FA=CS
5 V4/5** FA=CS

Dead Forest
uphill from bottom to top:
1 V2/3/4? prow - above Billboard Creek by itself. FA=RS
2 ?
3 Dead Forest Dyno V!? dyno!? sit!? FA=!?
4 ?
5 ?
6 ? V0** scenic but mini sized low start on pockets to flat lip mantle - up/downclimb. FA=SL
7 The Snakehead Traverse V0*** 360 left to right or V1*** right to left. FA=SL
8 The Snakehead VB/0*** high slab face - or V0** right sit or V1*** left sit. FA=CS
9 Snake Pit V0/1** sit up left jug hand and foot rails - or V1**R top out direct!? FA=!?
10 Cobra Kai V?R!? FA=!?
11 ?
12 VB/0*** FA=CS/EB
13 VB/0*** FA=EB/CS
14 ?
15 Life After Death V1/2**** center right diagonal slots to jug lip top out! - or Burnout After Death V2/3*** traverse right to left up into #15. FA=CS
16 Live After Death V!? left/center face!? FA=!?
17 Burnout Traverse V1/2**** left to right crack rail into #19. FA=SR
18 Burnout Direct V2/3** upper traverse into arete - or Burnout Direct Sit V3/4** direct low sit up into V2/3 - or Burnout Face Direct V4/5*** face left of arete to hueco or direct to top - V5*** sit. FA=CS
19 Burnout VB/0*** slab face. FA=CS/EB
14 ?
15 ?
16 ? V0/1*** low sit to face top out left or same as #17. FA=SL
17 Deadbeat Arete V2/3**** sit arete up left into jug face top out. FA-CS
18 Deadpoint Magic V6**** right side of steep arete to jug lip. FA=CS
19 Deadbeat V5/6**** stand steep crack/seam FA=CS - or low start V7/8/9!?
20 Deadbeat Crack V0/1*** sit right diagonal crack. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 Mongo Boulder!?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?

The Bushwhack  Boulders
1 V4/5**** FA=CS
2 V5/6**** FA=CB
3 V6*** FA=CS
4 V1/2*** FA=CS
5 V0/1*** FA=CS
6 VB/0*** FA=CS

Ecology Rocks aka Skinny Dip Rocks
1 V0*** FA=CS
2 V1**** FA=EB
3 VB/0*** FA=EB
4 V1/2*** or V2/3** FA=EB/CS
5 V1*** FA=CS
6 V0/1*** FA=CS
7 V3** FA=CS
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??




Bullet Point
Shot Rock
1 VB*** up/down FA=CS
3 V0/1** FA=CS
4 V1/2/3** traverse FA=CS
5 ??
6 ??
7 ??
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Boulder
right to left:
1 Bite the Bullet V1** face. FA=CS
2 Siriji's Traverse V2*** slab/face - left arete to right arete. FA=SL
3 Siriji's Traverse Extension V3** start left arete traverse up right into #1 V1 face. FA=CS
4 ? left face/arete?
5 V1 direct high face. FA=AC
6 ? right arete?
7 Special Edition V4*** sit face/seam arete to sloper lip traverse left into #10 top. FA=CS
8 Limited Addition V5*** sit seam no arete traverse left top out direct. (~low sit!?) FA=AC
9 Magic Bullet V5*** low right hand undercling stand start. (~low stand!?) FA=CS
10 Flower Gun V4**** sit start compression edges over sloper lip ~ mini classic! FA=CS
11 ??
12 ??
13 VB/0* left mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=CS
14 VB/0* right mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=AC
15 ??

The latest pics at Bullet Point 2017:
Sirijis Traverse

Flower Gun

Magic Bullet

Lake County Bouldering Vids;

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Top 15 Boulder Problems in the Bay Area - Spring 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

"Grand Finale" (aka "Relentless"V10***** low sit start ("Living A Dream" V6***** stand or "Livin La Vida Loca" V8**** original sit start - Fort Ross -- FA: V6 Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel, V8 Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien, V10 Ryan Tolentino.

"Fort Rossta" V6***** sit start (V4/5***** stand) - Fort Ross or "Living a Nightmare" V7**** (V5/6**** stand )-- FA: V4/5 Marcos Nunez, V6 Richie Esquibel/Chris Summit?, V5/6 Jim Thornburg, V7 Chris Summit

"Eco Terrorist" V10***** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma

"Groundation" V7**** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Summit?

"Yabo Roof" V5**** - Castle Rock -- FA: John Yablonski

"The Classic" V3***** stand (V4**** sit start) - Castle Rock -- FA: Bruce Morris?

"Watercourse" V0/1R**** - Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman? 

"Nat's Traverse" V8***** traverse low or V6/7**** traverse high/all holds - Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale

"Scotts Arete" V5**** stand start (V6**** sit) - Berkeley -- FA: Scott Frye

"Bucket Prow" V0R***** juggy highball/TRBerkeley -- FA: Sierra Club?

"Hellspawn" V7***** sit start  or "Hell Awaits" V4**** stand (V8**** low sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: V7 + V4 Chris Summit, V8 Charlie Barrett

"Mother Nature" V2**** stand start (V3/4**** sit) - Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit

"Pelican Arete" V0/1R***** clean highball/TR - Sunset Boulders -- FA: Jordi Morgan?

"Little Wing" V9**** sit - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien

"The Flake" V1**** stand (V2*** sit) - Ring Mt -- FA: Russ Bobzien

A few of these I could swap out with so many other equally classic problems but for now these are the best IMO.

Monday, March 20, 2017

The Best of Sunrise Rocks ~ Spring 2017

Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge CA.
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
{~many local variations and link ups~}

Main Rock
"Sol Chaser" V3 left face/arete direct on separate detached block over rocky landing! FA=RC

"Sunlight Arete" V0* far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS
"Direct Sunlight" V1*** sit or V0** stand - face right of corner left of arete. FA=DW

"Synchrodipity" V2*** sit or V1** stand - arete/prow/face - high easy finish. FA=CS/LB

"Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left or direct up right V2/3*** - start on big jug chunk. FA=CS

V0/1R*** (or 5.9/10*** TR) high face just right of Sundial and left of prow - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT

V1/2R*** (or 5.10/11*** TR) high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit! FA=HH/RT

"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** low sit on right hand compression arete left of start for Sunrise Face and traverse steep face left into V6*** jug rail start and right into V5*** jug chunk start same as Sundial then low left around prow into far left arete. FA=CS

"Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS

!? steep bulge mega highball/TR project!! FA=!?

"Sol Rebel" V5*** sit start center of high steep face on edges go up to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol Rebel Direct" V5*** start right on undercling traverse direct up left to jug drop off. FA=AC
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** start on Sunrise Face and traverse direct up right to jug drop off. FA=CS

"Sol" V1/2**** start undercling pull up around right arete step off at no hands slab rest. FA=CS
"Sol Sacrifice" V2**** traverse V0** over rocks far right into VB/0** arete to top of rock. FA=CS
"Del Sol" V2/3*** direct low scrunchy fun sit into Sol. FA=EB

"Solar Wind" V5*** low start edges center face traverse right to big undercling up into Sol. FA=CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start then traverse right into Sol. FA=CS

"Savasana" V6/7*** same low sit start as Sol Rebel and Solar Wind then traverse high right into Sol arete staying above the big undercling (or V6** stand start). FA=CS
"Savasana Traverse"? V7? start far left and traverse right into Savasana. FA=?

V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS

"Stashbox" V1/2*** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1** slab arete. FA=CS
"Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4*** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS

Dawn Boulder
"Common Ground" V6**** center/left slab face - start next to waterfall :) V4*** left stand start. FA=CS/AC

"Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V2*** high right hand arete/face over creek left of waterfall! FA=DW

"New Dawn Arete" V2*** start FDWMBP and go up halfway then traverse right around arete over waterfall into top out of The Student. FA=CS

"The Student" V5/6*** mid sit over waterfall or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2** stand. FA=A?

Sungazer Boulder
"Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW
"Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW

"The Dirty Joke(s)"? V!? bulge/face projects left or right of Sun God!? FA=?

"Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit start then traverse up right into V5*** stand start high bulge/face center/right side of steep main face. (V6**** mid start) FA=CS
"Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece!} direct right low sit up left into Sun God V5 stand start (or V9/10**** mid sit)! FA: KJ 1-16-17
"Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same sit start as Sun God then traverse right into Sol Gazer!? FA: ?

"Sungazer" V2**** classic stand start on perfect campus board size edges crank over bulge up into high easy slab corner or V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into stand start. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse" V6** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7* start same as V6 traverse but direct/no jug chunk. FA=CS
"Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start jug chunk traverse edges left into Sungazer stand. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer" V6**** mid start direct on prow with right hand sloper and left hand undercling chunk and power past a sloper and crimps into Sungazer stand start to top out. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer Direct" aka "Sungazer Direct" V9/10*** low sit start (V9**** mid sit) top out direct up right into "Sungazer Direct Stand" V4** stand start sloper prow - or up right into Sol Gazer. FA: KJ

"Finger Slayer" V4** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into edges and right into jug chunk and top out or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (right jug chunk is off) FA=EB

Sunshine Boulder
"Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS

"Dark Star Arete" V2/3** short left hand arete sit top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Dark Star" V3*** sit far right face direct (no left arete) top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as arete then go right up face direct into Dark Star. FA=TC

"Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS

Dwarf Star Boulder
"Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of short steep face to perfect lip mantle. FA=CS
"Dwarf Toss" V4/5*** double dyno!! FA=CS

The Sunrise Rocks - blog

Sunrise Rocks Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering 2017 - YOUTUBE