Monday, September 8, 2014

Traverse Fetish

Not sure exactly what's wrong with me I guess I like to get sideways ;-/ I actually really like traversing and am not sure why more climbers don't. Here's why I do and why I think most climbers maybe don't:

traversing is great to do if you're alone because you can often do a lot of hard moves and get a good workout without a lot of risk because you're usually not very high off the ground.

traverses are often one of in not the hardest line on any given cliff.

traversing sideways or diagonally is more rare than going up or down and therefore is unique and special in its own way.

traverses can give you a pump like you would get on a long roped route but without the hassle of gear and a belayer.

traverses are often overlooked and a total first ascent score right under everyone's noses still to this day at a lot of popular crags and boulders.

but..

traversing is usually lame and wimpy because you're usually not high off the ground and you get in everyone's way as you prance around the base of the entire crag in front of everyone like you're on frkn parade.

sayings like "who wants to go sideways when you can go up?" and "watch me climb" come to mind.

the spread eagle splits are often involved along with other embarrassing frenchy moves like cross throughs and roses, too much resting not enough action, etc etc..


The crux of the 150ft "Pine Flat Traverse" V6 fa


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Here's a list of some of my favorite traverses that I did first ascent of and are rarely repeated because, as mentioned above;
"traversing is (desperate and pathetic and..) the bastard step child of sport climbing" :)
 - (i think verm said it first?) John "Verm" Sherman


"Trinity Traverse" V3
Diagonal uphill slab/vert traverse with many cruxes and no hands rests along the base of the sport climbs. Fun to the end but what's wrong with someone who does a lame traverse at a cool sport crag.?
Direct without a big foothold midway it is about a grade harder but has a worse landing.
Trinity Aretes CA

"Subway Cave Traverses" V3/4/5
Traverses inside the entrances of the lava tubes.
FA= 2 me and 1 Richie Esquibel
Subway Cave CA

"Porky's Traverse" aka Little Shop of Horrors Traverse V5/6
Traverse from right to left along the base of the sport climbs on the Little Shop of Horrors.
Pig Rock NEV

"Mickey's Traverse" V4/5
Traverse in either direction along the base of the sport climbs on the west face of the Main Crag.
FA= J Thornburg, M Nunez, J Follett, J or J Campbell???? and maybe me from the lowest sit?
Mickey's Beach CA

"The Foolish Traverse" aka The Full Remilard Traverse V3/4
Do the original traverse from the left then continue up the diagonal ramp below the roof and over a rocky landing with a weird slab crux into a pumpy fun finish at the far right uphill side that is also over a rocky landing but not as bad as the landing at the crux.
Remilard Park, Berkeley CA

"The Great White Traverse" V8 (sit crack) and the shorter "Hammerhead Traverse" V7 (stand)
Traverse from left to right up over rocks to end on V0 diagonal crack on top of Orange Pleasure.
Mickey's Beach CA

"Super Abalone Traverse" V8 and the shorter "Abalone" V7 (start from center low sit)
Traverse from right to left along sloper lip with assorted heel and and ab flexing toe hooks.
Super Slab CA

"Rossta Traverse" V8/9
Traverse from right to left from Swiss Cheese past Living A Dream arete and down a move to "the ball hold" on Fort Rossta then end on Left Arete.
Fort Ross CA

"Goldbugs Traverse" V3/4
Traverse from right to left along horizontal crack to the crux at the end.
FA= me?
Tuolumne CA

"Fat Man Traverse" aka Fat Tire Traverse V3/4
Traverse from a sit start on the arete to the left along a rail reminiscent of the Iron Man Traverse.
Fat Tire Boulder, Tahoe  CA

"Chris' Traverse" V6/7
Traverse low from a sit on the far right into the far left arete.
Low Brow Boulder, Christmas Tree Valley, Tahoe CA

"Starfish Traverse" V3/4
Traverse from the far left to the far right arete/roof to finish. Also done into The Wave problem V4/5.
The Wave Boulder, Secrets CA

"40 Oz Traverse" V6
Traverse from far right around arete to end on the far left.
40 Oz Boulder, Vacaville CA

"Motherfucker Traverse" V5
Traverse from far right around arete to end on the far left uphill backside.
The Mother Boulder, Vacaville CA

"Stoned Dangler Traverse" V5
Traverse from far right to end on the far left.
Bloody Madness Boulder, Vacaville CA

"Pine Flat Traverse" V6 (150+ft!)
Traverse from far left uphill along base of crag to end on the far right. Epic long pumpfest!
Pine Flat, Geysers CA

"Rattlesnake Rock Traverse" V4
Traverse from far left around arete along base of crag to end on the far right.
Geysers CA

"Sticky Green Traverse" V6
Traverse from arete on far right to left into top out near end of long sloper lip.
Muffins, Castle Rock CA

"Backscratcher Traverse" V3/4
Traverse up and left through backscratching corridor from low start on right side at slab arete to end on fun juggy arete on uphill left side.
Indian Rock, Castle Rock CA

"Tender Biddles Traverse" V6
Traverse from Tender Biddles sit low and left along base of slab into semi highball crack on left.
Biddles Boulders, Castle Rock CA

"Dubilious Traverse" V6/7? (r to l) Stand start Way Dubious Contortionist into the original Billy Goat Traverse (or V8/9? from sit) and V7/8? (l to r into Way Dubious)
Billy Goat Rock, Castle Rock CA

"Stop In The Name Of Love Traverse" V3/4 and "Stop Dragging My Heart Around Traverse" V4/5
Traverse from right to left along backside of main wall. "Stop Dragging.." is the lowball butt-dragger. Start to the right of the word "Stop" spray painted on the boulder.
Saddle Boulder, Tahoe CA

"Loosers Keepers Traverse" V5/6
Hard slab traverse. Traverse from arete on left near start of Looser Weepers to V0 just before the right side (to continue to far right for a few more moves may add a slash grade but feels less natural).
Lost and Found, Burnside Lake, Tahoe CA

"Lost and Found Traverse" V4/5
Start on Lost and Found and traverse left into fun V2 in corridor (or into V2 on far left = V6/7? or from V2 on far left = V7/8!?)
Lost and Found Boulders, Tahoe CA

"Limestone Natural Bridge Traverse" V5 / 5.12ish
Traverse from about the middle of the inside of the bridge to end on the far left (about 75ft!?). A rocky landing with weird moves on amazingly sculpted but dusty limestone in a dark cave makes this a fun and challenging adventure. Many good rests but sending this still feels like leading a fairly long and steep 5.12 sport pitch. And/or start on the far right and do about 20ft of V6 over rocks and seasonal water holes called "Bridge Creek Traverse" and step off or go into a long undone crux section (V8/9?) that when all added into the V5 will be the complete traverse (150ft!?) and probably sick double digits!?
(dark - a headlamp helps)
Hayfork CA



Sean Brady "Pine Flat Traverse" V6





Monday, August 18, 2014

Mendo Exploring/Climbing/Bouldering/4-Wheelin Summer 2014




















M61 Boulders (0.6 miles from M1 on M61)
1 V0 slab
2 VB crack/corner
3 V1 arete to slab crack
4 "Pistol Grip Arete" V2
5 "M16" V3
6 "AK47" V4
7 3rd and 4th class scrambles to top
8 arete/face?
9 overhang right?
10 overhang left?

Mendo Bouldering Summer 2014 - YouTube

M1, Yuki and Mendocino National Forest Bouldering areas
(more info coming soon):

The Swimming Hole
bouldering VB-V5 so far with more potential!

Shady Crag
bouldering and top rope/possible sport potential

M61 Spires
bouldering and top rope/possible sport potential 

M61 Boulders
bouldering VB-V4 (see above)

M1 Crag
bouldering V0-V4 and possible short top rope potential 



Monday, August 4, 2014

Bay Area Bouldering overview map and list of areas.

The first printing of my bestselling guidebook Bay Area Bouldering accidentally had no numbers in the list of areas to correspond with the numbers on the map. The problem has since been fixed in the second printing but in case you own the first print book here is the overview map and fixed list of areas with the numbers to correspond with the map:

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/bayareaboulder.html

 

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Northern California Bouldering Slideshow



Northern California Bouldering slideshow YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWKPi73cPes&list=UUvX88R-kTddUoFjC2Ob902w

Northern California Bouldering guidebook by Chris Summit and SuperTopo;
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/northern-california-bouldering.html


Music: "This is How I Roll" from European Living by Cevio (aka Giovanni "G" Traversi ~ famous Nor Cal rock star!)

Check out Cevio on Soundcloud;
https://soundcloud.com/cevio

Monday, June 9, 2014

Summit or Plummet - promotional video / highlight reel from 2013/14! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTFFE5j8NLI

Music: "Spacecase" by Cevio
https://soundcloud.com/cevio

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Tuolumne Bouldering slideshow promo vid


Chris McNamara tunes into "Texas Radio" V3r at Tenaya West.

One of many great problems in Tuolumne Bouldering by Chris Summit and SuperTopo


Check out the Tuolumne Bouldering slideshow on YouTube;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvsluxOtRoY

Music: "Vibe Theory" from European Living by Cevio (aka Giovanni "G" Traversi ~ famous rock star!) Watch G take down the original Tuolumne test-piece "Thunderbird" at the end of this short film:
http://vimeo.com/44278428
Cevio on Soundcloud:
https://soundcloud.com/cevio