Sunday, January 17, 2016

My Top 15 Bouldering First Ascents of 2015

"Vortex" V3r/dws - Potter Valley/Three Rocks
"Sasquatch" V4 - Wildwood/Bridge Gulch
"Piano Man" V7 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Tower Of Power" V7 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Rosacrucian" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"The Alchemist" V5 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Illuminaughty" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Pyramid Arete Sit" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Heavens Gate" V3 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Resolution Arete" V3 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks
"Sungazer" V6 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks
"Solar Wind" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks
"Tall Drunk Monkey" V6 - Castle Rock/Sunnyvale Park
"Lager" V5 - The Preserve/Lumberjack Boulder
"Redemption" V4 - Pope Valley/Pope Creek


Friday, January 15, 2016

Testpiece Boulder Problems + Projects at "The Loaf" Sugarloaf Ridge Park

The Top 25 Testpiece Boulder Problems + Projects at The Loaf as of January 2016:
{*= ok *****= world classic}

"Pipedream Sit" V7/8**** unrepeated - low sit - FA: GZ (Adobe Canyon Boulder - out of park)
"Four Ferns" V7** lowball sit - FA: GZ
"Milky Way Traverse" V7*** unrepeated - lip traverse (not climbable ~ tree fall) - FA: CS
"Tower Of Power" V7*** center sit into left crimp face traverse - FA: CS
"Piano Man" V7**** center sit into right arete slab traverse - FA: CS
"Neptune" V6/7*** left mega sloper arete - FA: RE
"Neptune Direct" V6/7**** direct/right overhang - FA: RT
"Sungazer Sit" V6**** low crimpy sit into fun stand - FA: CS
"White Fang" V6*** low sit overhang - FA: CS
"White Fang Direct" low sit overhang direct - V6*** FA: RT
"All Rise" V6*** direct face / no arete - FA: AC
"Dry Hump" V6** low sit short steep lip mantle - FA: CS
"Trailblazer Traverse" V6** traverse right to left into Trailblazer - FA: CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6*** traverse left to right into Solar Wind - FA: CS
"Booger Eater" V6*** low sit up left on back of Booger Boulder - FA: CS
"The Gypsy Traverse" V6** traverse lip up right from The Gypsy - FA: CS
"Hips Don't Lie Sit" V5/6**** high face - FA: GR

Sungazer Boulder East Face - center left or center right!!?? 
Sunrise Rock Direct Main Face - TR or highball!? 
Sunrise Traverse - full traverse uphill / right to left!?
Tower Of Power Direct - straight up between Tower Of Power and Piano Man!?
From Dawn to Dusk - up right side of steep overhang in lower creek above waterfall!? 
Pinball Wizard - wide double arete compression highball in upper creek!?
Black Mirror - sit to Heavens Gate!?
The Student - low sit!?

Monday, January 11, 2016

Top 15 NorCal Limestone Boulder Problems

In California where most of the stone is granite (and granite like monzonite) or sandstone, limestone is very unique. "Climestone" as I like to call it can be very solid and well featured to climb on and also dries very fast. Here are 15 boulder problems, some of which are in my guidebook Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo, that I have either personally climbed or have seen and heard about and highly recommend:

UPDATE to Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo possibly coming in ~2016/17.

Columbia - State Park & College & Labyrinth and Trinity Aretes & Wildwood
{in no particular order - problems I put up or repeated*}
"Triple Cracks" V6 stand V6/7 sit - mega classic FA: Chris Falkenstein - Columbia College *
"All In Due TimeV9 aka "Triple Cracks Traverse" classic FA: Mike Campana - Columbia College
"Mind Over MatterV10 highball! FA: Ben Polanco - Columbia College
"All American Finger CrackV2 stand/sit FA: Dave Yerian - Columbia College
"The Autobahn Traverse" V0 ~50ft! FA: Lance Kimball - Columbia College
"Ultimate TrogdorV8 sit ("Trogdor" V4/5 stand) FA: Ben Polanco? - Columbia College *
"Miners BaneV7 sit V3/4 stand FA: Ben Pope - Columbia Labyrinth *
"The BehemothV5/6 highball! FA: Ben Pope - Columbia Labyrinth
"The MinotaurV5 highball! FA: Phil Bone/Ben Pope? - Columbia Labyrinth
"Aries Curse" V9 direct crack sit ("Aries" V7 all holds) FA: Ben Pope/CS? - Columbia Labyrinth *
"Horse Trail ProwV3 sit V1/2 stand FA: Seth Zaharias/Granite Stanley. - Columbia Park
"Stagecoach Arete" aka "Ghostown Arete" V3 sit V0/1 stand FA: SZ/GS? - Columbia Park *
"Trinity TraverseV3 ~75ft! FA: Chris Summit - Trinity Aretes *
"Natural Bridge TraverseV5 ~75ft! FA: CS? - Wildwood *
"SasquatchV4 low stand V3 stand FA: Chris Summit - Wildwood *    

Friday, January 1, 2016

The Sunrise Rocks - Sugarloaf Ridge Park CA.

Sunrise Rock (Main Rock)
1 VB easy way up down.
2 V0 sit left arete/face.
3 ? face/right arete?
4 "Sunburn" V0 corner/face.
5 "Synchrodipity" V1 stand V2 sit.
6 "Sundial" V2/3/4 corner/face - left or right top out - semi highball/TR!?
7 V1/2/3 high face - highball/TR!?
8 V1/2/3 high face/prow - stand or steep sit - highball/TR!?
9 "Sunrise Traverse" V2/3/4 stand(s) or V4/5 sit or V6/7? from #14 - traverse left from arete into #4.
10 ? black streak - highball/TR!?
11 ? corner/face - highball/TR!?
12 ? steep bulge - highball/TR!?
13 ? high arete - highball/TR!?
14 "Solaris" V1/2 undercling start to #13 arete then traverse far right up into #18 VB/0 arete.
15 "Solar Wind" V4/5 low start on edges and traverse right into #14.
16 "Solaris Traverse" V5/6 left start same as #11 traverse right into #15.
17 ? high face?
18 VB/0 high easy arete to top of main rock.
19 "Stashbox" V1/2/3 left face traverse in corridor.
20 "Matchbox" V4/5/6? right face in corridor - V5/6 sit start matched or V4/5 mid sit into "Lockbox" V2/3 sit start arete to V0/1 stand start slab.
Short Man Boulder
21 "Short Man Complex" V3/4 low direct sit or V1/2 lip traverse - short boulder opposite #14-16.
Creek Boulder?
22 "Creek Arete"? V0/1/2? high face/arete!?
23 "Creek Face Direct"? face up direct!?
24 "Creek Face"? face up left!?
25 "The Student" V5 mid sit or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2 stand - downclimb V0 right.
Mini Traverse Boulder
26 "Mini Traverse" V0 short low traverse - next to trail uphill from #25.
Sungazer Boulder
27 "Sungazer Traverse" V1 right to left from #28 into #33.
28 V0/1? face left of arete and tree.
29 V0/1? center/left face.
30 VB/0? easy face.
31 VB easy groove.
32 ? face(s)?
33 V0 low sit on backside.
34 "Resolution Arete" V2/3 high face/arete right of tree!
35 ? bulge/face!?
36 ? bulge/face direct!?
37 "Sungazer" V5/6 sit V2/3 stand!
38 ? low bulge face traverse left into #34!? or right into #37!?
39 V2/3 face edges direct right of #37 (jug on #40 to the right is off).
40 V1/2 short jug chunks on far right.
? Boulder
38 V2/3/4? far left compression sit?
39 ? left face?
40 ?"Fun In The Sun"? easy center face(s)??
41 ? right face?
42 ? right face direct?
43 V1/2? far right arete/face sit?
44 V2/3? far right arete/face sit traverse right?
45 V3/4? full traverse!?
Dwarf Star Boulder
48 "Dwarf Star Traverse" V2/3 sit left to right into #50 mantle!
49 "Dwarf Star" V3/4 low sit center of face up left!
50 "Dwarf Mantle" V1/2 right side sit on good holds to mantle!

Friday, September 25, 2015

The Preserve

{{~topo secret~}}

West Sonoma County Schist bouldering at it's finest!
Precious sacred cherished nature.

(*=ok // *****=world classic!)

Turtleback Rock
1 crack on boulder below Turtleback? FA=ZA/JM?
2 face left of crack below Turtleback?
3 "Morla, The Ancient One" V3R highball dihedral corner/face from ledge FA=TL
or low left face start V6/7!? up into dihedral or low start then top out left!??
4 traverse from right to end at or go up into dihedral!?
5 high face above traverse - left center right!!??

The Golden Boulder 
(left to right)
6 left arete/face!?
7 full traverse!!??
8 5.12?**** TR left of Oracle!? FA=!?
9 "The Oracle" V4***** stand FA=JM! - or V5***** sit FA=SB!
10 "Oracle Traverse" V6*** FA=CS!
11 "Invite Only" V4R?**** FA=ZA!
12 V0/1?**** FA=ZA/JM
13 V1/2***?
14 VB/0**?
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?

The Lumberjack Boulder 
(left to right)
20 "Hallowed Logs" V1R*** left arete/face/slab. FA=JM
21 "Greenize" V5*** sit or stand then up left face/bulge and past mantle ledge into #20! FA=JM
22 "Greenize Direct" V5R*** same start as #21 then direct up over highball mantle ledge!! FA=JM!
23 "Green Route" V6*** sit left direct to jug ledge - drop. FA=CS - or V?*** "?" topout #21-22!? FA=!? - or start #21 - or start #20-22 up high into #26!!??
24 "Invisible Foot" V6/7*** sit left traverse right to jug and drop off - or V7*** into #27. FA=JM
25 "??" start #24 traverse into #26-29!!??
26 "Lumberjacked" V4/5R***** stand start left facing highball corner crack! FA=JM! - Sit(s)!?
27 "One Fell Swoop" V3**** stand #26 then up right face. FA=ZA! stand - or V4**** sit. FA=CS
28 "Lager" V5*** start on far right of lower level into V0 on far right side. FA=CS
29 "Babe" V2*** sit start direct face on right side. FA=AF
30 "True Blue" V1*** start V0 on far right side then angle up left into top of #29. FA=AF
31 "Rollin On The River" V5*** low start same as #28 then up right into #27 topout. FA=JM
32 "Ranch life" V1/2***? FA=JM?
33 ?
34 ?

E-Z Block 
35 V0/1?** left. FA=?
36 V1/2/3?*** right - or direct low right sit V2/3/4? FA=?
37 V2/3/4?*** traverse(s) FA=??

Bigfoot Boulder 
38 Hard project on left!?
39 Highball over creek!?

Headland Boulder
40 "Brain Scar" V3**** highball face in creek. FA=JM
41 "Domatrix" V3*** stand start left of #40 or sit V4/5*** FA=JM

G's Boulder 
42 V11!?*** Hard low sit(s)!? FA=GT?
43 ?
44 ?

45 ?
46 ?
47 ? 
48 ?
49 ?