Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Orange Buddha Boulder - Mickeys Beach - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Winter 2017 the main bouldering rock at Mickeys Beach known as The Orange Buddha Boulder or The Danger Boulder shifted on the sandy beach in the big wet storms. The boulder tilted to the south and east and seems to have slipped west, down and out toward the sea. Several problems are gone or drastically changed and all are different ratings now. Basically the problems on the north/nude beach side are higher but less steep and therefore easier now and the classic Orange Buddha Arete V8 and most of the problems to the right of it are now less than half as high, less than half as hard and way less than half as good. Only the Orange Buddha Face to the right of what was the Orange Buddha Arete is still high enough to be enjoyed and it is steeper and harder now ~ V4/5. The classic west face test-piece Bound By Tension was V11 but is now about V9 since the holds tilted and have become less sloper. The best new classic is the north east arete nicknamed "Plumass"? lol and is about V7.


Orange Buddha Boulder - West Face
(R to L)
1 ~V0/1 short overhanging juggy right arete.
2 Bound by Tension ~V9 sloper up steep prow right into #1.

Orange Buddha Boulder - North Face/Nude Beach Face
(L to R)
3 Peeping Tom ~V3
4 Diagonal Crack V1
5 Baseball ~V2
6 Don't Worry Be Snappy aka Wheel Well ~V3
7 Grace Face ~V3
8 Peeping Tom Traverse ~V4
9 Plumass ~V7 was The Changeling (~V4) variation to the left.

Orange Buddha Boulder - East Face
(L to R)
10 New Orange Buddha Arete ~V3
11 Orange Buddha Face ~V4/5
12 ~V1/2/3?
13 ~V6/7 low crimps sit.
14 ~V2/3 face left of arete.
15 ~V3/4 red boulder spire behind trail.


*classics lost or drastically changed;
Orange Buddha Arete V8 or V9 low left sit.
Orange Pleasure V4
Back in the Day V4
Bodhi Day V9
Dayo V6
Shark Sighting V10
Great White V8
Hammerhead V7
The Changeling V4









Saturday, July 8, 2017

Mortar Rock - Berkeley CA - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update


Mortar Rock
Mortar Rock - Main West Face
(left to right)
1 V? high face!? 
2 Nats Traverse V8 low (l to r) or Natural Nats V7 all holds/rail - into #6.
3 Nats Crack V0 dirty crack corner.
4 Sunshine V5 sit bulge up right or Sunshine Eliminate V9 direct up left / right of #3.
5 The Brink / Brink of Disaster aka Black Plague V6 face left of #6 or Sun Plague V7 #4 into #5
or Black Sun V6 stand or White Sun V7 sit #6 into #4 or White Plague V7 sit start #6 up into #5.
6 The Ramp V4 stand start featured scoop or V5 sit or V8 sit #9 or Sun Ramp V6 sit #4.
7 Stans Traverse V8 Nats backwards or V9 sit start #9 or Jungle Stans V8/9 from #8+9 stand.
8 Jungle Fever V8 *eliminate - stay right of #6 - or Full Fever V10 sit #9. 
9 New Wave V9 stand or The Kraken V11 low sit start under bulge.
10 Marks Traverse V11 stand start jug same as #11 bust left into #7.
11 Don't Worry Be Snappy V12 jug start up over steep roof/bulge or Snappy Wave V11 #11 into #9 or Snappy Fever V11 #11 into #8.
12 Impossible Traverse V13 same jug start right into #13 - or V!!?? start #2??
13 Impossible Wall V8 stand start or Mission Impossible V9 low stand.
14 Chinese Connection V12 low sit start #13.
15 Egypt Air V9 #13 into high left finish or V13 sit #14.
16 The Odyssey V7 jump start V9 stand or V12 sit.
17 Beached Whale V6 bulge slab up into to face or crack.
18 Bench Crack V1 high dirty crack or The Scoop V4 low left sit.
19 Bench Wall V2 stand or V3 sit classic high face or Bench Arete V4 stand V5 sit.
20 Bench Corner V3 stand or V4 sit or V0/1 far right slab.

Mortar Rock - Sidewalk Boulders
(right to left)
21 The Hand Traverse aka Sidewalk Traverse V1 lip traverse up left.  
22 Pipeline Traverse V5 with foot ledge V6 without - low face traverse (r to l).
24 The Boys Problem V5 sit or Rimshot V3 stand.
23 The Girls Problem V5 sit or V4 stand.
25 Little Half Dome V1 center face upper boulder or V2 traverse.



Thursday, May 11, 2017

Mark West / Safari West - Porter Creek

Secret Santa Rosa local rocks ~ word of mouth only ;)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Tombstone Rock
*Main Face - left to right:
1 Tombstone Arete 5.11a*** left arete finish or direct right face rail ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=DS
2 Tombstone Face 5.12a*** right face up left into run out rail finish ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=CS/SR
3 5.11+** right face to lone anchor. FA=DS
4 5.10* right arete - top rope or highball/solo. FA=DS
Traverse Face - right to left:
5 Tombstone Traverse V3**** right to left around low bulge up into V0** jug finish. (V3 into old overgrown far left finish and with extra far right old overgrown start/finish~) FA=DS
6 V1/2 far left uphill old overgrown face climb(s). FA=DS
7 The Hunger V6**** low sit start up right into arete - Tombstoned V5*** arete sit or V4*** stand start - up right top out on jug ledge in corridor - or top out up into #4 arete highball/solo (often overgrown*). FA=CS
Grave Cave
8 Grave Cave Arete V2** sit start left arete. FA=?
9 Grave Cave V6**** sit start center of steep cave. FA=DS
10 Grave Cave Traverse V4*** sit right to left arete or sit left arete into top of #9. FA=CS
11 V5/6/7? low traverse right to left up into left face? FA=?
12 V5/6/7? low traverse right to left into arete? FA=?
Tombstone Boulders
13 Knob Arete V1*** sit start. FA=DS
14 V0* slab. FA=DS
15 Crystal Prow V0** sit start mantle over or V1* traverse. FA=DS


Stagecoach Rock
*left to right:
1 Stagecoach Traverse V1/2/3 traverse. FA=DS
2 LSD V4/5/6 FA=CS
3 V2/3/4? FA=DS
4 V0/1 FA=DS
5 V5 FA=RS
6 V5 FA=CB
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

Postwood Boulders
1 Postwood Traverse V2/3? FA=RT
2 V5 FA=RT
3 V0/1 FA=CS
4 V1/2 FA=RT
5 V2/3 FA=RT
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

The Backyard Boulders
Safari Boulder
1 V1 slab. FA=AC
2 Safari Arete V2/3 sit start arete. FA=CS
3 Safari West V5 sit start left or Safari Direct V6 sit direct no aretes. FA=AC
4 Safari East V5 right variation. FA=CS
5 V0 warm up lip traverse. FA=AC/CS
6 V1 overhung prow! FA=AC
Spider Boulder
7 Spider Senses V6 low sit start lip/arete up left into Spider Party. FA=CS
8 Spider Party V5 sit start V4 stand. FA=CS
9 Span The Man V6 low stand up left into #10 - or direct V5 up right - or sit!? FA=AC
10 ? V1 stand. FA=SR
11 V1 slab traverse up right under tree to end on top of #9+10. FA=CS
12 V5 sit start traverse up right into #11. FA=CS
13 V5 sit start traverse right and up into #14. FA=AC
14 V2 sit start on input jug and go up scoop face to jug slab top out. FA=AC
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
Creek Boulder
20 ?
Lone Boulder
21 ?
22 ?
Epoxy Boulder
23 Epoxy Classic V4 or low sit - original old school classic! FA=?
24 Natural Line V5 low stand or V3 stand start. FA=CS?
25 V3 jump start campus bulge - or sit start project!? FA=AC/CS
26 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=AC/CS
27 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=CS
28 Warmup Down-climb V4 sit start direct or V3/4 right - V1 stand start/down-climb. FA=AC/CS
29 Slithering Fear V0R highball slab ~ multi pitch bouldering! FA=RA
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?













Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Wind Tunnel Boulders - Sedona AZ

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic





Wind Tunnels / Wind Caves
1 roof crack!?
2 roof crack!?
3 ??

Warm Up Zone
4 VB* slab.
5 Lil Dog V0** sit short left arete. FA: JKM
6 Dog Party V3*** sit short right arete. FA: JKM
7 VB/0* face.
8 ??

Patchouli Boulder
Backside Roof - L to R:
9 Pioneers Progress V2*** traverse lip/crack up right to top. original classic. FA: KW
10 Pup and Mallard V5*** face up into top of #9. FA: JKM
11 ??

Main Face - L to R:
12 VB slab downclimb~ 
13 Slather Ass V0** crack start up face left to #12 slab. FA: JKM/CS
14 ? V0/1*** crack. FA: JKM
15 Patchouli Baby V6**** sit start center pocket face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
16 Egyptian Goddess V6**** sit start #15 up right face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
17 ? V5*** stand. Sit #15 ~V6? FA: JKM
18 Wind Chime Traverse V4*** sit #15 pocket traverse left up into #13. FA: CS
19 ??

Jason Kevin Moehlman on "Egyptian Goddess" V6FA

Endless Boulder
Main Face L to R:
20 Endless Beaches V5**** stand start. FA: ID
21 Winds of Change V4*** face. FA: CS
22 Squeeze Job V4** short face between rocks. FA: CS
23 ??

Backside:
24 Earth Wind and Fire V6*** roof-lip-arete-jug ~ step off. FA: CS
25 E.W.a.F. Extension!?
Me on "Earth Wind and Fire" V6FA with Kahuna :)














Monday, April 24, 2017

Cougar Crag

Secret Santa Rosa local crag ~ word of mouth only :)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

1 slab?
2 ?
3 ?
4 hand crack?
5 ?
6 ?
7 "Cougartown" V3/4 FA=CS
8 ?
9 "Cat Woman" V1/2 FA=M
10 "Cat Woman Traverse"?
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 V2/3 FA=CS
16 high compression prow!?
17 ?
18 "Bat Wing" V1 right arete. FA=CS
19 "Bat Mantle" V4/5 traverse into mantle. FA=ST
20 "Bat Mantle Traverse" V4/5 traverse left to right. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 ?

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Knoxville, Lake County CA 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic



The Dead Forest / The Billboard
The Billboard
left to right:
1 Billy Jack V4/5**** steep face/arete or V5/6*** from #4 no hands corner start. FA=CS
2 Billy Jack Traverse V6/7** main face traverse into steep face/arete. FA=CS
3 direct face!?
4 Billboard Crack V0/1R**** highball crack/corner. FA=CS
5 billboard crack direct?
6 billboard diagonal crack?
7 Billboard Traverse V2/3*** traverse main face usually right to left to no hands corner at base of #4 or V4/5 low. FA=CS
8 main face 1 bolt TR/mega-highball project! FA=!?
9 sharp broken arete TR??
10 Signpost Traverse V2/3** start at arete and traverse up right into The Signpost V1/2 or V4/5** traverse main face left to right into V2/3. FA=CS
11 The Signpost V1/2** far right uphill face. FA=CS
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?

Billboard Creek
1 VB/0** FA=CS
2 V0/1** FA=CS
3 V1/2** FA=CS
4 V2/3** FA=CS
5 V4/5** FA=CS

Dead Forest
uphill from bottom to top:
1 V2/3/4? prow - above Billboard Creek by itself. FA=RS
2 ?
3 Dead Forest Dyno V!? dyno!? sit!? FA=!?
4 ?
5 ?
6 ? V0** scenic but mini sized low start on pockets to flat lip mantle - up/downclimb. FA=SL
7 The Snakehead Traverse V0*** 360 left to right or V1*** right to left. FA=SL
8 The Snakehead VB/0*** high slab face - or V0** right sit or V1*** left sit. FA=CS
9 Snake Pit V0/1** sit up left jug hand and foot rails - or V1**R top out direct!? FA=!?
10 Cobra Kai V?R!? FA=!?
11 ?
12 VB/0*** FA=CS/EB
13 VB/0*** FA=EB/CS
14 ?
15 Life After Death V1/2**** center right diagonal slots to jug lip top out! - or Burnout After Death V2/3*** traverse right to left up into #15. FA=CS
16 Live After Death V!? left/center face!? FA=!?
17 Burnout Traverse V1/2**** left to right crack rail into #19. FA=SR
18 Burnout Direct V2/3** upper traverse into arete - or Burnout Direct Sit V3/4** direct low sit up into V2/3 - or Burnout Face Direct V4/5*** face left of arete to hueco or direct to top - V5*** sit. FA=CS
19 Burnout VB/0*** slab face. FA=CS/EB
14 ?
15 ?
16 ? V0/1*** low sit to face top out left or same as #17. FA=SL
17 Deadbeat Arete V2/3**** sit arete up left into jug face top out. FA-CS
18 Deadpoint Magic V6**** right side of steep arete to jug lip. FA=CS
19 Deadbeat V5/6**** stand steep crack/seam FA=CS - or low start V7/8/9!?
20 Deadbeat Crack V0/1*** sit right diagonal crack. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 Mongo Boulder!?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?


The Bushwhack  Boulders
1 V4/5**** FA=CS
2 V5/6**** FA=CB
3 V6*** FA=CS
4 V1/2*** FA=CS
5 V0/1*** FA=CS
6 VB/0*** FA=CS
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20


Ecology Rocks aka Skinny Dip Rocks
1 V0*** FA=CS
2 V1**** FA=EB
3 VB/0*** FA=EB
4 V1/2*** or V2/3** FA=EB/CS
5 V1*** FA=CS
6 V0/1*** FA=CS
7 V3** FA=CS
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

??
??

??
??

??
??


Bullet Point
Shot Rock
1 VB*** up/down FA=CS
3 V0/1** FA=CS
4 V1/2/3** traverse FA=CS
5 ??
6 ??
7 ??
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Boulder
right to left:
1 Bite the Bullet V1** face. FA=CS
2 Siriji's Traverse V2*** slab/face - left arete to right arete. FA=SL
3 Siriji's Traverse Extension V3** start left arete traverse up right into #1 V1 face. FA=CS
4 ? left face/arete?
5 V1 direct high face. FA=AC
6 ? right arete?
7 Special Edition V4*** sit face/seam arete to sloper lip traverse left into #10 top. FA=CS
8 Limited Addition V5*** sit seam no arete traverse left top out direct. (~low sit!?) FA=AC
9 Magic Bullet V5*** low right hand undercling stand start. (~low stand!?) FA=CS
10 Flower Gun V4**** sit start compression edges over sloper lip ~ mini classic! FA=CS
11 ??
12 ??
13 VB/0* left mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=CS
14 VB/0* right mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=AC
15 ??




The latest pics at Bullet Point 2017:
Sirijis Traverse

Flower Gun

Magic Bullet




Lake County Bouldering Vids;
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4tJm8CpHuF5A3TN9BbiLtNSBNGXyY3ts






Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Top 15 Boulder Problems in the Bay Area - Spring 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic


"Grand Finale" (aka "Relentless"V10***** low sit start ("Living A Dream" V6***** stand or "Livin La Vida Loca" V8**** original sit start - Fort Ross -- FA: V6 Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel, V8 Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien, V10 Ryan Tolentino.

"Fort Rossta" V6***** sit start (V4/5***** stand) - Fort Ross or "Living a Nightmare" V7**** (V5/6**** stand )-- FA: V4/5 Marcos Nunez, V6 Richie Esquibel/Chris Summit?, V5/6 Jim Thornburg, V7 Chris Summit

"Eco Terrorist" V10***** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma

"Groundation" V7**** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Summit?

"Yabo Roof" V5**** - Castle Rock -- FA: John Yablonski

"The Classic" V3***** stand (V4**** sit start) - Castle Rock -- FA: Bruce Morris?

"Watercourse" V0/1R**** - Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman? 

"Nat's Traverse" V8***** traverse low or V6/7**** traverse high/all holds - Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale

"Scotts Arete" V5**** stand start (V6**** sit) - Berkeley -- FA: Scott Frye

"Bucket Prow" V0R***** juggy highball/TRBerkeley -- FA: Sierra Club?

"Hellspawn" V7***** sit start  or "Hell Awaits" V4**** stand (V8**** low sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: V7 + V4 Chris Summit, V8 Charlie Barrett

"Mother Nature" V2**** stand start (V3/4**** sit) - Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit

"Pelican Arete" V0/1R***** clean highball/TR - Sunset Boulders -- FA: Jordi Morgan?

"Little Wing" V9**** sit - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien

"The Flake" V1**** stand (V2*** sit) - Ring Mt -- FA: Russ Bobzien






A few of these I could swap out with so many other equally classic problems but for now these are the best IMO. These are also only the legit publicly accessible ~half of all classics found in the Bay Area.