Monday, April 2, 2018

Mayacamas Mountains Climbing

Stretching from the Sonoma-Napa Hills in the south and Santa Rosa to the west up to the Mendocino Range in the north and as far east as Mt St Helena and Cobb Mt in Lake County, The Mayacamas Mountains are the natural boundary between Sonoma and Napa counties world famous wine regions. The Mayacamas are the main backbone of the Coastal Range in the North Bay Area as well as the heart of my neck of the woods, my hometowns backyard :)

Ancient Yuki Wappo Native American Tribal Land.


Here are the top 25 rock climbing and bouldering areas in around the Mayacamas as of 2018:

South to North;
NAME - COUNTY + # OF PROBLEMS/ROUTES
{toposecret = top secret / no topo // word of mouth // locals only~}
* = legit / public access!

Atlas Peak - Napa {toposecret} ~5 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
Sonoma Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~15 problems/routes
Mossy Boulder? - Napa {toposecret} ~5 problems
Veeder Rocks - Napa {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Mammoth Cave - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems
*Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma ~200 problems/routes
Adobe Canyon - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems
*Hood Mt - Sonoma ~15 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
Cougar Crag - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Santa Rosa Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~20 problems/routes
Alpine Rock - Sonoma {toposecret} ~5 problems/routes
Green Cave/Indian Cave - Sonoma {toposecret} ~15 problems
Mark West Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~50 problems/routes
*Mossy Rock - Napa ~10 problems/routes
Linda Falls - Napa {toposecret} ~10 problems
The Schoolhouse - Napa {toposecret} ~10 routes
*Pacific Palisades - Napa ~10 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
*Table Rock - Napa ~50 problems/routes
*Mt St Helena - Sonoma/Napa ~200 problems/routes
*Socrates Mine/Devils Punchbowl - Lake ~5 problems/routes
Cobb Mt - Lake {toposecret} ~5 problems
Eagle Rock/Russian River - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Pine Flat - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Geyserville - Sonoma {toposecret} ~25 problems/routes
Mecca/First Falls - Sonoma {toposecret} ~75 problems/routes


TOTAL = 700+ boulder problems and sport or traditional routes up to V10 and 5.13
(~200 FA's to my credit.)



Friday, March 16, 2018

The Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering 2018 Update

Clear Lake/Konocti - The Black Forest,  Little Black Forest, Clear Lake State Park
Black Forest Boulder aka Black Magic Boulder
1 Black Forest Arete V2 sit start. / V1 stand. FA=CS/SB
2 Black Fire V4/5 face right of arete - arete is off. FA=CS /  Black Foot V6 dyno! FA=AH
3 Black Magic V2 stand start. FA=SB
4 Black Magic Traverse V3 sit start low right traverse up left into #3. FA=SB
5 Dark Energy V2 or V3 right - stand start. Often overgrown with moss. FA=CS / V? left sit.!?
6 Black Magic Slab V0 stand start slab face left of #1.
7 arete?

Black Slab Boulder
8 Black Slab Arete VB fun slab arete left or right side.
9 Black Slab Face V0/1 slab face right of slab arete.
10 Moss Face V2 left slab face. Often overgrown with moss. FA=CS
11 Moss Traverse V2 left to right / V3 right to left into #10. FA=CS

O.G. Boulder
12 Black Cat was V4 sit start - foothold broke so harder now? / V2/3 stand? FA=CS
13 Black Panther V5/6 left stand start into #14. FA=CS / start right of #12 traverse up right into #14. / O.G. Face V1 stand start jug pockets go up over short center face.
14 O.G. Arete aka Original Problem V2/3 stand start right arete. / V3/4 sit. FA=?

Black Hole Boulder
15 Blackout V1 stand start center of face and climb up and over the lip. FA=SB
16 Blackout Traverse V3 sit start on right and traverse up left into #15. FA=SB
17 Dark Horse V5 low powerful start up into #15. FA=SB
18 Black and White V1 stand start at notch jug on prow.
19 Black Hole V4 sit start left hand in pocket and right hand below notch, bust a move up right into the notch jug and into #18. FA=CS
20 Black Hole Direct V5 sit start right hand in pocket and left hand low, make move up right into the notch and into #18. / V5/6 low sit start right hand on edge. FA=CS
21 Black Power V6 low sit start #20 then traverse left into #22 left top out. FA=CS
22 Black and Blue Traverse V5 sit start left side traverse right into #19. / Black and Blue V2 sit start then up short left top out slopers to pockets. FA=CS
23 Black Sheep V0 left or right sit start on small boulder behind Black Hole Boulder.
24 Blackout Direct V1/2 start #16 and top out direct. FA=SB

Lost Boulder
25 Lost V4 low tricky sit start up into V1 stand start. Uphill from main boulders. FA=CS


Little Black Forest
Blackalicious Boulder
26 Blackalicious Arete? needs cleaning!
27 Blackalicious V6 sit start. FA=CS / V4 stand start pocket face. FA=SB

Black Label Boulder
28 Mini Cave V3 sit start the steep little cave. / V1 left or right stand starts. FA=CS
29 Mini Me V0/1 stand start on rail right of Mini Cave.
30 Black Label V5 direct left face. / V3 right face variation. FA=CS


Clear Lake State Park
Leprechaun Boulders
31 Little Leprechaun V0 direct from sit start. / VB with big mossy right-hand flake jug.
32 Shenanigans V? left side face of Shamrock!?
33 Shamrock V1/2 semi high semi classic up center of boulder. FA=CS
34 Sham Jam VB/0 crack corner arete right side of Shamrock - downclimb.
35 ?

Campsite 110
36 Camp Crack V0 sit start short splitter crack in tight corridor. / VB stand start.
37 110 Arete V2 sorta high, sorta classic left arete. FA=CS
38 420 Face V1 stand start on gritty sloper jug in high corner. / V!? sit start low jug shelf project!?
39 Camp Clown V2 sit starts. / V0 fun right or scary left finish.
40 Camp Fire V2 sit start scrunchy right side of boulder.



Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo







Thursday, March 1, 2018

Schoolhouse Rock AKA The Schoolhouse

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
Left to Right:

1 "The Bird is The Werd" 5.12a/b* 2 bolts to 1 bolt anchor. FA=CS
2 "Toll Taker" 5.12b/c**** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=CS
3 5.12/13 project - start #4 angle up left into #2 - TR!?
4 "Dry Line" 5.12c/d**** 3 bolts to 1 bolt rain anchor or 4 bolts to left anchor {stays dry in most rain storms} - or up right to lip anchor!? (both 2 bolt anchors) FA-TR=CB FA-Lead=CS
5 5.12/13 project - white streak between #4 and #6!?
6 5.12/13 project - bolt line left of #7!?
7 "Solar Flare" 5.12a/b** TR/Top Rope line left of #8 (shared anchor). FA=RT
8 "Solar Catastrophe" 5.12a/b*** 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=RT
9 "P.E." 5.10* clip #10 anchor then traverse left to #7/#8 anchor. FA=CS
10 "Recess" 5.9 1 bolt to 1 bolt anchor - mossy far right face. FA=CS



Schoolhouse Rock - YOUTUBE



"Toll Taker" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE



"Solar Catastrophe" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE





Friday, February 23, 2018

Bouldering/Climbing in Santa Rosa CA 2018


The Cobblestone
Cobblestone


Bum Hill
Warm Up Boulders
~V0-V3ish FA's=CS

Happy Hour Boulder
"Happy Hour" V4/5 local classic squat start on detached block FA=CS - or direct low start!?
"Strangiato" V0 stand start far left mantle ledge/shelf FA=CS
"?" V3/4 far right scrunchy low sit - or  V1 stand start FA=RT


Rock Quarry/Dynamite Cave
Original Boulder
"Old Style" V2 sit start V1 stand start - epoxied old school classic FA=DS
"Pink Belly"? sit start left arete no epoxied rocks - project!? or V2 stand start.

Dynamite Cave
"Dynamite Cave?" 5.11TR local classic face FA=RT or 5.11 face direct - or arete direct!?

Summits Block
"Summits Arete" V5/6 sit start classic sculpted arete to lip FA=CS or low right sit!?
V0/1 stand start arete/lip FA=CS
"?" direct arete/lip sit to slab!?


Spring Lake
"Springtime" V1 FA=CS?
"Spring Chicken" V0 old/original local classic FA=? - or "Spring Fling Traverse" V2 FA=CS
"Springboard" V4 FA=CS


Fountaingrove
!!??


Flat Rock
!?


Annadel
!?





"Happy Hour" V4/5


"Summits Arete" V5/6


Tuesday, November 28, 2017

For over 25 years I've done ~1000+ first ascents with ~100 this year alone on almost every type of stone. Cleaning/trundling loose rock off first ascents is an often overlooked and under appreciated risky part of establishing new routes. It is risky for the person doing it and it is risky for all those that follow if it is not done properly or not done at all in some instances. There is also a fine line between over cleaning for safety and under cleaning for aesthetics (good) and laziness (~bad). Never assume the rock even on established old classics is solid until every hold is searched for visible fractures as well as inspected by hand, knocking and listening as well as feeling for hollowness and vibrations. Even then I have still had seeminlgy solid holds break on me. This dude is lucky this was not worse - be frkn careful; 
https://www.climbing.com/videos/video-boulderer-falls-pulls-300-pound-block-off-with-him/

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Pinnacles Bouldering

East Side - Moses Spring Trail/Bear Gulch Caves
1 "Yellowjacket" V3/4 FA=CS
2 V5/6? traverse into Yellowjacket!?
3 V6/7? face right of Yellowjacket!?
4 "Dabbage Incorporated" V4/5 FA=CS
5 face left of Dabbage Inc?
6 "Chunky Monkey" V4 low sit V1/2 stand - short left arete. FA=CS
7 high left arete?
8 high face corner right of high arete?
9 high arete/face on hill?
10 long low steep face in cave left?
11 long low steep face in cave center?
12 long low steep face in cave right?
13 short steep boulder(s) in cave??
14 high steep face(s) in cave??
15 crack roof face over trail!?
16 face next to trail?
17 "Monolith Traverse" V4-V6 harder depending on exactly where you start or finish - traverse right to left from Cantaloupe Death to Regular Route. The first official boulder problem on Pinnacles East Side. FA: Jim Thornburg
18 Discovery Wall area traverse(s)!?
19 boulder face next to reservoir?
20 boulder face right side next to reservoir?

West Side - Juniper Canyon Trail
Juniper Creek Boulders
1 traverse on hill below trail?
2 slab face?
3 sit overhang prow into slab?
4 pillar in creek!?
5 steep face to lip drop or high slab top!?
The Choss Balls - Lower Choss Ball
6 "The Scrotum"? chossy highball crack jug seam on center face of the lower choss ball!?
7 lower choss ball face(s)??
8 ??
9 ??
Upper Choss Ball
10 V0 easy up/downclimb far right side. FA=CS
11 "Shake The Monkey" V1 up left across shaky jugs into face left of downclimb. FA=CS
12 V2/3 sit start up into face left of downclimb. FA=AH
13 "Slob on my Knob" V2/3 sit start face center-right. FA=CS
14 "Jukebox Hero" V3 sit start face center-left or V1 stand start. FA=CS
15 "Flotsam" V3/4 left low stand start up into center-left face or direct start "Jetsam" V4. FA=CS
16 "Choss Ballers Traverse" V5/6 sit start face center-left then traverse right into downclimb. FA=CS
17 "Ball Fondler Traverse" V5/6 start on downclimb traverse left into left face top out. FA=AH
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

West Side - Balconies Trail
1 steep boulder up right of trail at entrance to first caves.
2 short red boulder right of trail at entrance to first caves.
3 boulder(s) left of trail at entrance to first caves.
4 boulder(s) in creek left of trail at entrance to first caves.
5 "Anticlimactic Traverse" V4/5 traverse huecos, underclings and pockets on center face on base of cliff just right of trail - V4 finish or V5/6? natural thread start? FA=CS
Bouldering Rock
6 arete - vert left or slabby right side.
7 VB classic slabby slab with bolts on top - left or right variations or traverse up to V0/1. FA=??
8 V1/2 left side of main face from right hand slot pocket start. FA=??
9 V3/4 low hueco sit start flake face or V1/2 stand start. FA=??/AH(sit)
10 "Hueco Sit Start" V4 low hueco sit or V2 stand edges to lip or V3 mid start. FA=??/CS(sit)
11 V2/3 direct sit start face left of arete.
12 V1/2 sit start warm up arete. FA=??
13 V5/6 mid start face right of arete. FA=AH
14 "Original Classic" V3 sit start is crumbly but might be possible with some love!? FA=??
15 V2/3/4? right arete/lip traverse up into top of the original classic.
16 traverse up right into high face!?
17 sit start rail up right into high face!?
18 sit start direct up into high face!?
19 right start up into high face!?
The Rookie Rock
20 5.4X slab? ~accèss to top.
21 "The Rookie" 5.10 top rope face.
22 "Ring of Fire" V4 stand start left pocket on big overhang and pull onto slab - or sit!? FA=CS
23 "The Nookie Arete" V3 low sit start compression arete on big overhang up left onto slab. FA=CS
24 ""Sharma Project""!? - high face project.!?
25 face(s) right of Sharma Project!?
26 face far right of Sharma Project over trail near corridor!?
27 short face on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
28 short face/crack on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
29 short traverse on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?







Wednesday, November 22, 2017

The Rockshelter aka "Coyote Hole"

Rockshelter/Coyote Hole - right to left:
{Please tread lightly here - respect this precious sacred ancient historic cave}

1 VB easy way up/down. FA=?
2 V0 slab corner. FA=NJ
3 Sabertooth Sneak Attack V1/2 right sit then up left - or V0 stand. FA=SL
4 Coyote Attack V3 right sit then traverse left and up into main top out same as #5+6. FA=CS
5 Coyote Direct V4 sit under cave and up over main top out. FA=CS
6 Coyote Hole V5 mid sit under main roof into main top out FA=CS or V6/7? low sit project!?
7 Sacred Spirit V6 right sit then left into #8 to top out. FA=CS
8 Rockshelter Arete V3 campus stand start off rock left arete/corner of cave over high landing. FA=DW? (original classic?)
9 V? corner?
10 V? face?
11 V0 stand start or V0/1 sit left side. FA=?
12 VB far left stand. FA=?