Saturday, November 12, 2011

The Untamed Rocks


The un-appreciated Untamed Rocks just north of Squaw Rock and South of Hopland off US101 in wild, uncharted, Mendocino County. About 5 climbs so far from 5.10-5.12 with more potential/projects! Most routes stay dry in the rain due to the huge blank overhanging headwalls (thus the name "Untamed") making it like an outdoor gym! Except this gym is natural and free :)


"The Shrew" aka "Shit Face" 5.10d/5.11a!? - slabby/vertical roadside sport climbing fun! 4 bolts + 2 bolt rap ring anchor.


Aron Quiter does "The Shrew" crux!


Aron at the "shit face" spot.


Aron on the final crux of "The Shrew".


Aron at "The Shrew" anchors.


Sarah works "The Shrew" on TR.


Aron Quiter cleans a new arete line!

Monday, November 7, 2011

Ukiah Bouldering


Chrisjitsu "Gap Crack" 5.9TR (V0R)



Marcos Nunez "Fuck You" V4R (5.12TR) Flash!



"Fuck You Traverse" V6 FA!



Sean Brady "Suspended Animation" V6 FA!



"Cherty Mind" V5 FA!



Aron Quiter "Cherty Mind" V3 stand 3rd ascent!



Katie Rose "Cherty Mind"



Ukiah Bouldering 2011 - YOUTUBE

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Clark Canyon Bouldering


The trailhead and the Parking Lot Boulder



Summit Fever V8/9? FA!



Bump n Grind V8/9? FA!


CLARK CANYON BOULDERING
The Parking Lot Boulder (a short bushwhack off the crag trail)
*backside - left to right:
1 Wilbur's Problem V6/7 stand V7 sit - rails to seam - mega classic!
2 Summit Fever V8? stand start in sinker right hand two finger pocket or V8/9? sit start right hand small pocket and left hand edge and boulder up left into #1!
3 !? sit start right of #2 on same pocket but with left hand and angle up left into #2!?
4 !? do same sit as #3 then angle up right into or around #5!?
5 right hand arete!? or left hand arete/high slab face!??

*frontside(s) - left to right:
6 left arete(s)!?
7 center face!?
8 right side center face!?
9 right side traverse?
10 right side arete(s)!?

Parking Lot Boulders (around Parking Lot area)
11 face?
12 arete?
13 traverse?
14 !?
15 arete/face!?

Trailside Boulder (along the main trail about halfway to the crags)
*frontside - left to right:
16 Trailside Slab V3/4 the start is the crux
17 Bump n Grind V8? stand V8/9? sit start in pocket
18 Bahl Hornin V4 sit V2 direct left stand start or V1 right stand start on jug lip same as #19
19 Bahlers Traverse V5 sit start #18 then traverse right along the lip into #20 or V2 stand start jug lip
20 VB up/down-climb


Clark Canyon Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Spirits Wall - Mt Tam


Eliot Carlsen does the first ascent of
the class-sick "High Spirits" V6/7R!

Ken Ariza found this awesome boulder and did most of the first ascents on it but this line was unsent until yesterday September 5 2011 when Eliot Carlsen snagged the first ascent - great job Kenny and Eliot!!

Spirits Wall has about 15 problems (V1-V7) and potential for more!?

Spirits Wall - left to right:
1 VB slab left or center
2 V0 corner crack
3 "Absinthe Makes The Heart Grow Fonder" V3/4R left arete FA=KA
4 "Beam Me Up" V5R straight up slab between #3 and #5 FA=KA
5 "Two Buck Chuck" V5/6R sit FA=KA
6 "High Spirits" V6/7R steep, sort of highball, center face!! FA=EC or V7!? Low stand!?
7 "Cocktail Traverse" V5 stand V5/6 low stand!? FA=CS
8 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #6!?
9 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #7!?
10 "Groundhog" V4/5 sit (V1 stand on jug rail) - step off from slab onto rock or top out!? FA=KA
11 "!?" sit start #10 then traverse up left into #6!?
12 "!?" VB/0 crack and/or face!?
13 !?

(small boulder below #3)
14 Stupid Face V0 sit mini face then top out straight up
15 Stupor Traverse V1 sit then traverse right and up along low lip


Spirits Wall is below the radio towers on the top of the south/east side of the small peak just to the west of the East Peak of Mt Tam just downhill from the small green building that is next to the white building across/southwest from the big green dome :)


Cocktail Traverse V5/6 FA! - YOUTUBE

Saturday, August 27, 2011