Tuesday, November 28, 2017

For over 25 years I've done ~1000+ first ascents with ~100 this year alone on almost every type of stone. Cleaning/trundling loose rock off first ascents is an often overlooked and under appreciated risky part of establishing new routes. It is risky for the person doing it and it is risky if it is not done properly or not done at all in some instances. There is also a fine line between over cleaning for safety and under cleaning for aesthetics (good) and laziness (~bad). Never assume the rock even on established old classics is solid until every hold is searched for visible fractures as well as inspected by hand, knocking and feeling for vibrations. Even then I have still had seeminlgy solid holds break on me. This dude is lucky this was not worse - be frkn careful; 

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Pinnacles Bouldering

East Side - Moses Spring Trail/Bear Gulch Caves
1 "Yellowjacket" V3/4 FA=CS
2 V5/6? traverse into Yellowjacket!?
3 V6/7? face right of Yellowjacket!?
4 "Dabbage Incorporated" V4/5 FA=CS
5 face left of Dabbage Inc?
6 short left arete?
7 high left arete?
8 high face corner right of high arete?
9 high arete/face on hill?
10 long low steep face in cave left?
11 long low steep face in cave center?
12 long low steep face in cave right?
13 short steep boulder(s) in cave??
14 high steep face(s) in cave??
15 crack roof face over trail!?
16 face next to trail?
17 "Monolith Traverse" V4-V6 harder depending on exactly where you start or finish - traverse right to left from Cantaloupe Death to Regular Route. The first known original boulder problem on Pinnacles East Side. FA: Jim Thornburg
18 Discovery Wall area traverse(s)!?
19 boulder face next to reservoir?
20 boulder face right side next to reservoir?

West Side - Juniper Canyon Trail
Juniper Creek Boulders
1 traverse on hill below trail?
2 slab face?
3 sit overhang prow into slab?
4 pillar in creek!?
5 steep face to lip drop or high slab top!?
The Choss Balls - Lower Choss Ball
6 "The Scrotum"? chossy highball crack jug seam on center face of the lower choss ball!?
7 lower choss ball face(s)??
8 ??
9 ??
Upper Choss Ball
10 V0 easy up/downclimb far right side. FA=CS
11 "Shake The Monkey" V1 up left across shaky jugs into face left of downclimb. FA=CS
12 V2/3 sit start up into face left of downclimb. FA=AH
13 "Slob on my Knob" V2/3 sit start face center-right. FA=CS
14 "Jukebox Hero" V3 sit start face center-left or V1 stand start. FA=CS
15 "Flotsam" V3/4 left low stand start up into center-left face or direct start "Jetsam" V4. FA=CS
16 "Choss Ballers Traverse" V5/6 sit start face center-left then traverse right into downclimb. FA=CS
17 "Ball Fondler Traverse" V5/6 start on downclimb traverse left into left face top out. FA=AH
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

West Side - Balconies Trail
1 steep boulder up right of trail at entrance to first caves.
2 short red boulder right of trail at entrance to first caves.
3 boulder(s) left of trail at entrance to first caves.
4 boulder(s) in creek left of trail at entrance to first caves.
5 "Anticlimactic Traverse" V4/5 traverse huecos, underclings and pockets on center face on base of cliff just right of trail - V4 finish or V5/6? natural thread start? FA=CS
Bouldering Rock
6 arete - vert left or slabby right side.
7 VB classic slabby slab with bolts on top - left or right variations or traverse up to V0/1. FA=??
8 V1/2 left side of main face from right hand slot pocket start. FA=??
9 V3/4 low hueco sit start flake face or V1/2 stand start. FA=??/AH(sit)
10 "Hueco Sit Start" V4 low hueco sit or V2 stand edges to lip or V3 mid start. FA=??/CS(sit)
11 V2/3 direct sit start face left of arete.
12 V1/2 sit start warm up arete. FA=??
13 V5/6 mid start face right of arete. FA=AH
14 "Original Classic" V3 sit start is crumbly but might be possible with some love!? FA=??
15 V2/3/4? right arete/lip traverse up into top of the original classic.
16 traverse up right into high face!?
17 sit start rail up right into high face!?
18 sit start direct up into high face!?
19 right start up into high face!?
The Rookie Rock
20 "Ring of Fire" V4 stand start left pocket on big overhang and pull onto slab - or sit!? FA=CS
21 "The Nookie Arete" V3 low sit start compression arete on big overhang up left onto slab. FA=CS
22 ""Sharma Project""!? - high face project.!?
23 face(s) right of Sharma Project!?
24 face far right of Sharma Project over trail near corridor!?
25 short face on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
26 short face/crack on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
27 short traverse on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

The Rockshelter aka "Coyote Hole"

Rockshelter/Coyote Hole - right to left:
{Please tread lightly here - respect this precious sacred ancient historic cave}

1 VB easy way up/down. FA=?
2 V0 slab corner. FA=NJ
3 Sabertooth Sneak Attack V1/2 right sit then up left - or V0 stand. FA=SL
4 Coyote Attack V3 right sit then traverse left and up into main top out same as #5+6. FA=CS
5 Coyote Direct V4 sit under cave and up over main top out. FA=CS
6 Coyote Hole V5 mid sit under main roof into main top out FA=CS or V6/7? low sit project!?
7 Sacred Spirit V6 right sit then left into #8 to top out. FA=CS
8 Rockshelter Arete V3 campus stand start off rock left arete/corner of cave over high landing. FA=DW? (original classic?)
9 V? corner?
10 V? face?
11 V0 stand start or V0/1 sit left side. FA=?
12 VB far left stand. FA=?

Sunday, September 24, 2017

Forest/Adventure/Rock Climbing Therapy

A place to share information and ideas about the use of Rock Climbing / Bouldering as Therapy for many physical and mental health issues.

A mix of Adventure Therapy and Occupational Therapy, Climbing Therapy can be done on climbing walls/climbing structures but mainly at indoor climbing gyms. For the full package it can be done at outdoor climbing rocks (of course with proficient climbing guides/instructors) for the added benefit of Forest Therapy, also known as Forest Bathing, to totally maximize all of the potential therapeutic options and benefits of Rock Climbing Therapy in the most natural and efficient way. 

Rock Climbing Therapy - Facebook

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Orange Buddha Boulder - Mickeys Beach - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Winter 2017 the main bouldering rock at Mickeys Beach known as The Orange Buddha Boulder or The Danger Boulder shifted on the sandy beach in the big wet storms. The boulder tilted to the south and east and seems to have slipped west, down and out toward the sea. Several problems are gone or drastically changed and all are different ratings now. Basically the problems on the north/nude beach side are higher but less steep and therefore easier now and the classic Orange Buddha Arete V8 and most of the problems to the right of it are now less than half as high, less than half as hard and way less than half as good. Only the Orange Buddha Face to the right of what was the Orange Buddha Arete is still high enough to be enjoyed and it is steeper and harder now ~ V4/5. The classic west face test-piece Bound By Tension was V11 but is now about V9 since the holds tilted and have become less sloper. The best new classic is the north east arete nicknamed "Plumass"? lol and is about V7.

Orange Buddha Boulder - West Face
(R to L)
1 ~V0/1 short overhanging juggy right arete.
2 Bound by Tension ~V9/10? sloper up steep prow right into #1.

Orange Buddha Boulder - North Face/Nude Beach Face
(L to R)
3 Peeping Tom ~V3
4 Diagonal Crack V1
5 Baseball ~V2
6 Don't Worry Be Snappy aka Wheel Well ~V3
7 Grace Face ~V3
8 Peeping Tom Traverse ~V4
9 Plumass ~V7 was The Changeling (~V4) variation to the left.

Orange Buddha Boulder - East Face
(L to R)
10 New Orange Buddha Arete ~V3
11 Orange Buddha Face ~V4/5
12 ~V1/2/3?
13 ~V6/7 low crimps sit.
14 ~V2/3 face left of arete.
15 ~V3/4 red boulder spire behind trail.

*classics lost or drastically changed;
Orange Buddha Arete V8 or V9 low left sit.
Orange Pleasure V4
Back in the Day V4
Bodhi Day V9
Dayo V6
Shark Sighting V10
Great White V8
Hammerhead V7
The Changeling V4

Saturday, July 8, 2017

Mortar Rock - Berkeley CA - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Mortar Rock
Mortar Rock - Main West Face
(left to right)
1 V? high face!? 
2 Nats Traverse V8 low (l to r) or Natural Nats V7 all holds/rail - into #6.
3 Nats Crack V0 dirty crack corner.
4 Sunshine V5 sit bulge up right or Sunshine Eliminate V9 direct up left / right of #3.
5 The Brink / Brink of Disaster aka Black Plague V6 face left of #6 or Sun Plague V7 #4 into #5
or Black Sun V6 stand or White Sun V7 sit #6 into #4 or White Plague V7 sit start #6 up into #5.
6 The Ramp V4 stand start featured scoop or V5 sit or V8 sit #9 or Sun Ramp V6 sit #4.
7 Stans Traverse V8 Nats backwards or V9 sit start #9 or Jungle Stans V8/9 from #8+9 stand.
8 Jungle Fever V8 *eliminate - stay right of #6 - or Full Fever V10 sit #9. 
9 New Wave V9 stand or The Kraken V11 low sit start under bulge.
10 Marks Traverse V11 stand start jug same as #11 bust left into #7.
11 Don't Worry Be Snappy V12 jug start up over steep roof/bulge or Snappy Wave V11 #11 into #9 or Snappy Fever V11 #11 into #8.
12 Impossible Traverse V13 same jug start right into #13 - or V!!?? start #2??
13 Impossible Wall V8 stand start or Mission Impossible V9 low stand.
14 Chinese Connection V12 low sit start #13.
15 Egypt Air V9 #13 into high left finish or V13 sit #14.
16 The Odyssey V7 jump start V9 stand or V12 sit.
17 Beached Whale V6 bulge slab up into to face or crack.
18 Bench Crack V1 high dirty crack or The Scoop V4 low left sit.
19 Bench Wall V2 stand or V3 sit classic high face or Bench Arete V4 stand V5 sit.
20 Bench Corner V3 stand or V4 sit or V0/1 far right slab.

Mortar Rock - Sidewalk Boulders
(right to left)
21 The Hand Traverse aka Sidewalk Traverse V1 lip traverse up left.  
22 Pipeline Traverse V5 with foot ledge V6 without - low face traverse (r to l).
24 The Boys Problem V5 sit or Rimshot V3 stand.
23 The Girls Problem V5 sit or V4 stand.
25 Little Half Dome V1 center face upper boulder or V2 traverse.

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Mark West / Safari West - Porter Creek

Secret Santa Rosa local rocks ~ word of mouth only ;)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Tombstone Rock
*Main Face - left to right:
1 Tombstone Arete 5.11a*** left arete finish or direct right face rail ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=DS
2 Tombstone Face 5.12a*** right face up left into run out rail finish ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=CS/SR
3 5.11+** right face to lone anchor. FA=DS
4 5.10* right arete - top rope or highball/solo. FA=DS
Traverse Face - right to left:
5 Tombstone Traverse V3**** right to left around low bulge up into V0** jug finish. (V3 into old overgrown far left finish and with extra far right old overgrown start/finish~) FA=DS
6 Scorched Earth V4/5 uphill left sit start face up to jug top - or Charred Remains V3/4 far uphill sit far left of tree up face to jugs. FA=DS/CS
7 The Hunger V6**** low sit start up right into Tombstoned Arete FA=CS or V6*** top out up into #4 top rope arete or highball/solo (often overgrown*) FA=CB. Tombstoned V5**** direct arete sit or V4*** stand start - up right to top out on jug ledge in corridor FA=CS
Grave Cave
8 Grave Cave Arete V2** sit start left arete. FA=DS/CS
9 Grave Cave V6**** sit start center of steep cave. FA=DS
10 Grave Cave Traverse V4*** sit right to left arete or sit left arete into top of #9. FA=CS
11 V6/7? low traverse right to left up into left face? FA=?
12 V6/7? low traverse right to left into arete? FA=?
Tombstone Boulders
13 Knob Arete V1*** sit start. FA=DS
14 V0* slab. FA=DS
15 Crystal Prow V0** sit start mantle over or V1* traverse. FA=DS
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

Stagecoach Rock
*left to right:
1 Stagecoach Traverse V1/2/3 traverse. FA=DS
2 LSD V4/5/6 FA=CS
3 V2/3/4? FA=DS
4 V0/1 FA=DS
5 V5 FA=RS
6 V5 FA=CB
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

Postwood Boulders
1 Postwood Traverse V2/3? FA=RT
2 V5 FA=RT
3 V0/1 FA=CS
4 V1/2 FA=RT
5 V2/3 FA=RT
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

The Backyard Boulders
Safari Boulder
1 V1 slab. FA=AC
2 Safari Arete V2/3 sit start arete. FA=CS
3 Safari West V5 sit start left or Safari Direct V6 sit direct no aretes. FA=AC
4 Safari East V5 right variation. FA=CS
5 V0 warm up lip traverse. FA=AC/CS
6 V1 overhung prow! FA=AC
Spider Boulder
7 Spider Senses V6 low sit start lip/arete up left into Spider Party. FA=CS
8 Spider Party V5 sit start V4 stand. FA=CS
9 Span The Man V6 low stand up left into #10 - or direct V5 up right - or sit!? FA=AC
10 ? V1 stand. FA=SR
11 V1 slab traverse up right under tree to end on top of #9+10. FA=CS
12 V5 sit start traverse up right into #11. FA=CS
13 V5 sit start traverse right and up into #14. FA=AC
14 V2 sit start on input jug and go up scoop face to jug slab top out. FA=AC
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
Creek Boulder
20 ?
Lone Boulder
21 ?
22 ?
Epoxy Boulder
23 Epoxy Classic V4 or low sit - original old school classic! FA=?
24 Natural Line V5 low stand or V3 stand start. FA=CS?
25 V3 jump start campus bulge - or sit start project!? FA=AC/CS
26 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=AC/CS
27 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=CS
28 Warmup Down-climb V4 sit start direct or V3/4 right - V1 stand start/down-climb. FA=AC/CS
29 Slithering Fear V0R highball slab ~ multi pitch bouldering! FA=RA
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?