Friday, September 25, 2015

The Preserve

{{~topo secret~}}

West Sonoma County Schist bouldering at it's finest!
Precious sacred cherished nature.

Lumberjack Boulder - The Preserve Bouldering 2015 - YouTube

(*=ok // *****=world classic!)

Turtleback Rock
1 crack on boulder below Turtleback? FA=ZA/JM?
2 face left of crack below Turtleback?
3 dihedral!? or low left face start to dihedral or direct up left!?
4 traverse from right to end at or go up dihedral!?
5 high face above traverse - left center right!!??

The Golden Boulder 
(left to right)
6 left arete/face!?
7 full traverse!!??
8 5.12?**** TR left of Oracle!? FA=!?
9 "The Oracle" V4***** stand FA=JM! - or V5***** sit FA=SB!
10 "Oracle Traverse" V6*** FA=CS!
11 "Invite Only" V4R?**** FA=ZA!
12 V0/1?**** FA=ZA/JM
13 V1/2***?
14 VB/0**?
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?

The Lumberjack Boulder 
(left to right)
20 "Hallowed Logs" V1R*** left arete/face/slab. FA=JM
21 "Greenize" V5*** sit or stand then up left face/bulge and past mantle ledge into #20! FA=JM
22 "Greenize Direct" V5R*** same start as #21 then direct up over highball mantle ledge!! FA=JM!
23 "Green Route" V6*** sit left direct to jug ledge - drop. FA=CS - or V?*** "?" topout #21-22!? FA=!? - or start #21 - or start #20-22 up high into #26!!??
24 "Invisible Foot"!? V?***!? left sit traverse right and up into jugs - drop off FA=!?
25 "??" start #24 traverse into #26-29!!??
26 "Lumberjacked" V4/5R***** stand start left facing highball corner crack! FA=JM! - Sit(s)!?
27 "One Fell Swoop" V3**** stand #26 then up right face. FA=ZA! stand - or V4**** sit. FA=CS
28 "River Lager Traverse" V5*** start on far right of lower level into V0 on far right side. FA=CS
29 "Babe" V2*** sit start direct face on right side. FA=AF
30 "True Blue" V1*** start V0 on far right side then angle up left into top of #29. FA=AF
31 "Rollin On The River" V5*** low start same as #28 then up right into #27 topout. FA=JM
32 "Ranch life" V1/2***? FA=JM?
33 ?
34 ?

E-Z Block 
35 V0/1?** left. FA=?
36 V1/2/3?*** right - or direct low right sit V2/3/4? FA=?
37 V2/3/4?*** traverse(s) FA=??

Bigfoot Boulder 
38 Hard project on left!?
39 Highball over creek!?

Headland Boulder
40 "Brain Scar" V3**** highball face in creek. FA=JM
41 "Domatrix" V3*** stand start left of #40 or sit V4/5*** FA=JM

G's Boulder 
42 V11!?*** Hard low sit(s)!? FA=GT?
43 ?
44 ?

45 ?
46 ?
47 ? 
48 ?
49 ?
50 ?

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Learn from the past, plan for the future, live in the now :)

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Bigfoot Country Limestone ~ Spring/Summer 2015

There are several idyllic limestone crags in Northern California with a lot of incredible sport routes, good traditional routes, some top ropes and a few rare boulder problems. One of my favorites are the Wildwood Crags with the amazing Limestone Natural Bridge near Hayfork. The routes are not as long (~50-75ft) as some of the other limestone crags in Nor Cal but they are technical and bouldery on gray, gold and blue streaked limestone cliffs and caves and boulders! After holding out on info for this area at first to try and ease into access here there was an increase in popularity leading to some access issues. Now with a renewed interest after a long break by myself and others and to preserve the climbing history I am sharing a list of all the rock climbs and boulder problems that I know of in the area.

Native American Historic Heritage Site - Access Issues
There was a horribly tragic Indian massacre here long ago so it is now a sacred site.
Be extra cautious and respectful of all other users and tread very lightly on this sacred ground.

Mountain Project - Natural Bridge CA

~2 main areas:
~7 main climbing/bouldering zones:
*Star = ok / *****Star = World Classic ~100 total routes + boulder problems!

Bridge Gulch Crag & Bridge Gulch Boulder
Limestone Natural Bridge
The High Rocks
Forbidden Castle


Bridge Gulch Crag / Bridge Gulch Boulder

Bridge Gulch Crag

Bridge Gulch Boulder
(L to R)

1 "Rasta Shaman" V3*** up steep left side of cave to flat jug drop off. FA: CS
2 "Shaman Direct" V5/6?** up right hand to slot jug - eliminate - skip left crack jugs on #1!?
3 "Shaman Crack" V6*** horizontal roof crack up left to flat jug drop off! FA: CS
4 "Bass Nectar" V5*** cave start then up steep bulge face left to flat jug drop off. FA: CS
5 "Sasquatch" V4***** cave start up right into V3**** stand start - main left exit/finish FA: CS
- right exit/finish!? 
6 "?" Sasquatch into Honey Bear.
7 low start direct on left undercling and right sloper!? or right direct micro crimper start!!?? - right exit/finish!? 
8 direct jump start off small left hand notch into right exit/finish of Sasquatch or left or into #9!?
9 "Honey Bear" V2*** high stand start FA: CS or V2/3? cool low start in scoop on pockets but sadly the big jug block between the low start and the high stand start is fractured and should avoided.
10 "Yeti"? Honey Bear into Sasquatch right exit/finish or left exit/finish!?
11 "Honey Nectar"?*** Honey Bear into Bass Nectar!?
12 "?" Honey Bear into Shaman Crack!!??
13 low start in scoop then up past questionably solid jug shelf and up left into Honey Bear?
14 bulge face up left past traverse seam into Honey Bear or Yeti or ??
15 mossy vertical-ish corner crack face to high mossy ledges top out!?
16 VB* short fun jugs to ledge then down-climb - mossy. FA: CS or dirty top out?
17 "The Scoop Traverse" V1**** start on easy slab on far right and traverse the base into the scoop to a no-hands ending in the cave or left to right into #16 VB - a perfect fun warm up or lap route with slick slabby feet and uniquely featured steep handholds! FA: CS/LB
18 V0-** easier right side of traverse only to or from rocks. FA: CS/LB
19 V0+** crux left side of traverse only to or from rocks. FA: CS/LB
20 VB* short mossy prow to mantle on scooped boulder near creek. FA: CS

Limestone Natural Bridge

Limestone Natural Bridge {Bouldering}
(Bouldering - headlamps are good for the caves and under the Bridge)
The Bridge
11 "Bridge Traverse" V5/5.12**** start about midway and traverse left over rocky creek landing.
FA: CS or The Full Bridge Traverse - V8/9/double digit future project!?
12 "The Opening" V5/6** start on far right side of Bridge traverse left about 1/4 across. FA: CS
From the end the next 1/4 is the crux of The Full Bridge Traverse all the way to the V5/5.12 start.
13 "the tooth?" V4*** next to The Opening. FA: SB
14 "tooth traverse?" V3/4/5** traverse. FA: ?
15 "?" V1/2** far left side of bridge. FA: CB/RS?
16 "?" V4/5** left face of bridge. FA: CS/RS?
17 "Supercat" V6**** sit start low jug and bust over bulge on boulder in creek under bridge. FA: CS
18 "?" V5*** FA: SB
19 "Wonderdog" V4*** FA: CS
20 "?" V4 FA: SB
21 ?? far right side of Bridge!?
22 V3/4** direct out mini roof under cave route start or V0/1** jugs.
The Trailside Boulders
23 V2/3*** left side of boulder above picnic table campsite. FA:KA/CS?
24 "?" V4**** center face of boulder above picnic table campsite. FA: SB
25 "?" V2/3*** right side of boulder above picnic table campsite. FA:SB/CS?
26 "?" V4/5 traverse from left to right on boulder above picnic table campsite - low V5/6! FA: CS?
27 "Riggins" V3/4R*** highball face with water groove runnels - overgrown/mossy. FA: S?
28 "Gray Wall Traverse" V0/1/2***
The Cold Caves
Cool Cave
29 "Cool Beans" V4*** cave or V3 stand start - crack/hueco traverse left from cool cave. FA:CS
30 ?
Mystic Cave
31 "Mystic Cave" V3*** left sit to mid jug drop off FA: CS (V-harder to upper jug drop off - proj!)
32 "Mystic" V4*** right start to mid jug (V-harder from sit and to upper jug drop off - proj!)
33 "Mystic Traverse" V5**? start #32 then down #31 to no-hands rest in cave ~ fun link-up!?
34 ?
Cold Cave
35 ? right corner up left to seam and drop off!? - or left into #37!!??
36 "Peaceout"? center overhang to seam and drop off!?
37 "Peaceful Warrior"? center overhang to seam to left drop off!?
38 "Krampus Board" V4* stand start on lip campus ladder holds and random drop off - FA: CS
39 "Stranglehold" V5*** stand start left overhang past pinch to jug bucket drop off. FA: CS
40 "Peace Over Power"? Peaceful Warrior sit into Stranglehold!?
The Inner Caves
41 "Cave Crack"!? inside upper cave entrance/exit.
42 "Ice Cave" V!? deep inside cave. FA: CS
43 ?
44 ?
45 ?
The Notch
46 arete?
47 sit hueco thread!?
48 V? sit left or direct.? FA: CS
49 VB/0 slab face. FA: CS
50 traverse?

Limestone Natural Bridge {Routes}
(Right to Left)
1 short cave?
2 "Scary Monster" 5.13c**** FA: CB
3 Scary Extension? - up left to high anchor!?
4 !!?? - anchor up right of Scary ~ maybe blank crux after Scary or steep corner crack on right!!??
5 Scary Water? - cut left off Scary Monster to Bridge Over Troubled Water anchor!?
6 "Bridge Over Troubled Water" 5.12d*** start #7 then right out undercling to anchor. FA: CS
7 "Bigfoot" 5.12c***** start center route in steep cave and go to midway anchor! FA (retro): TK/CS - or to the lip anchor is (5.14!?) mega project!! and to the top anchor is ultra mega project!!??
8 "High Anxiety" 5.12b/V5*** (5.11d/A1**) A1 or V5 jump start! - left side of Bridge. FA: KA
9 roof crack!?
10 "Futurama" 5.13a*** Bolts and RB's or Top Rope. Backside of Bridge. FA: PH
11 "Fast Forward" 5.10b** Bolts and RB's or Top Rope. Backside of Bridge. FA: ?

The High Rocks
Gray Wall aka Dirt Surfer Wall
(L to R)
12 "Skeletal Remains" 5.10d*** warm up or cool down. FA: KA
13 "Indian" 5.11b** technical. FA: KA
14 "Massacre" 5.11d*** technical and pumpy. FA: KA
15 "Ritual" 5.12b*** sustained and bouldery. FA: KA
16 "Pinch Hitter" 5.12b**** bouldery technical classic! FA: CS
17 "Dirt Surfer" 5.11c**** the original classic. FA: PH/EC
18 "ADD" 5.11d/12a* start Dirt Surfer end Wake and Bake - beware hollow flake. FA: AR
19 "Wake and Bake" 5.10c/d*** sort of a warm-up ~ but awkward and semi runout. FA: CS
20 "Burning Spear" 5.11d**** mega classic! FA: CS
21 "Firewater" 5.12a**** dirty start - clean pocketed headwall face to cold shut anchor. FA: CS
22 "Supernatural" 5.13a*** steep arete to face! FA(TR): KA
23 "Medicine Man" 5.11d**** the mega-classic steep arete/face! FA: KA
24 "Witch Doctor" 5.12a*** bouldery start - hard clips. FA: CS
25 ??

UV Wall 
(R to L)
26 "Ray Ban" 5.10c/d*** short fun route to chain anchor in notch. FA: AR
27 "Cold Blooded"? 5.12? project? left of Ray Ban. FA: ?

Yellow Wall aka Orange Wall
(L to R)
28 "?" 5.12d*** bolts up steep prow! FA: PH/EC
29 "100 Innocent Souls" 5.12b**** prominent orange streak to tree. FA: EC?
30 right side? RB's?

Orange Cave
(L to R)
31 "Graceland" 5.10b/c*** - Left slab face. FA: AR
32 "Orange Cave" 5.11d**** Steep fun cave corner! FA: ?
33 5.12d*** Short steep face! FA: ?
34 5.13!? open project!?
35 ??



The Forbidden Castle?
1 ??
2 ??
3 ??

Crack Wall?
4 left crack!?
5 right crack!?
6 ?

The Overhang!?
7 left seam!?
8 center face!!??
9 right face!?
10 ?

Rhinecastle {Bouldering}
1 "Lil Growler" V4*** sit start left hand side pull crimp and low right hand underling crimp and bust a hard move up into the V2** stand start on short blob above parking / trailhead. FA: CS
Flintstone Rock {beware of rattlesnake living near the base of the rock}
2 "Flintstone Traverse"? traverse base of Flintstone Wall?
3 "Flintstone Solo"? far right side of Flintstone Wall?
4 highball hueco face?
5 hueco face traverse? 
Sublime Boulder {nice shade tree ~ beware of rattlesnake living near trail}
6 "Snake Pliskin" V3** sit start undercling go up far left. FA: CS
7 "The Snake Traverse" V4*** right to far left. FA: CS
8 "Sublime" V4*** undercling start up left then back right to jug drop off. FA: CS
9 "Sublime Traverse" V5?*** traverse start to Sublime.
10 "Sublime Direct" V? center direct from shelf sit!?
11 boulder on top?
12 boulder on top?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?

Rhinecastle {Routes}
Main Wall - left
1 broken terrain??

Main Wall
2 left slab arete?
3 face to diagonal to slab arete?
4 face?
5 ?

Striped Wall
6 far left?
7 brown corner left?
8 hueco line!?
9 right side?
10 far right?

Flintstone Rock
11 "Pebbles" 5.8**** TR right layback crack to pockets. FA: LB/CS
12 "Bam Bam Direct" 5.10*** TR direct face between cracks. FA: CS
13 "Bam Bam" 5.9**** TR left splitter crack to bulge face. {The first climb on Rhinecastle!} FA: CS
14 "Flintstone" 5.?*** TR left face/arete?
15 ?

The Steeple
16 "The Steeple"?
17 "White Castle"?

The Prow aka The Rhino
18 steep prow/arete!? choss?
19 steep prow face!? ?

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering ~ Spring 2015

Gunsight Rock
Mt Hood

Lizzy B
Mt Hood

"Illuminati" V4fa

Shawn R
"Illuminati" V4 

Shawn R
"Pyramid Power" V3

New boulder problems at the Canyon Trail Boulders in Sugarloaf Ridge Park 15min east of Santa Rosa near Kenwood. Darren W is to credit for bringing this area back to life and opening up a new boulder with several new classics. His original "Favors Undertakings" V1 is the main line up the flared corner in the center of the high face on this new pyramid tipped boulder. Located just uphill right next to one of the very first developed boulders in the park the old school Pyramid Boulder. 

Favors Boulder & The Pyramid Boulder
New problems Left to Right.
*barely worthy ~up to~ *****world classic:

1 "Left Wing" VB/0* left arete - look out for poison oak. FA: DW/CS?
2 V2** edges up right into #3, left arete is off. FA: DW
3 "Illuminati" V4**** stand start in corner same as #4 bust out left bulge face! FA: CS
or "Knights Templar" V6*** low right start on same good holds as #5 and #6. FA: CS
4 "Favors Undertakings" V1**** stand start from no hands rest and ascend semi high flared corner left of center - the original mega classic! FA: DW
or "The Alchemist" V5**** low right sit on good holds same as #5 and #6 up into #4. FA: CS
5 "Rosacrucian" V4*** high face right of center from low start on good square-cut holds. FA: CS
6 "Right Wing" V3** start on same good low holds as #5 then go right to arete or up arete. FA: CS
7 "Right Arete" V0 or V1R** right arete ~ bad landing V0 mid top out or V1R high top out! FA: AB?  
8 traverse left to right!?
9 traverse right to left!?
10 !?
Pyramid Boulder
11 "Pyramid Arete Low Sit" V4/5*** compression slopers into original start! FA: CS
12 !?

Check out a free mini-guidebook to Sugarloaf Ridge on this blog;

And for Sugarloaf Ridge as well as many other great bouldering spots in and around the area check out the latest 2015 eBook update for Bay Area Bouldering

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Friday, April 3, 2015

New Castle Zone FA's!

Sunnyvale Mountain + Biddles FA's 3/15!
***** = world classic / * = barely worthy

Drunk as a Skunk Boulder
original problems - l to r:
1 Skalawag V1/2*** - fa: md
2 Skalawag Traverse V2/3*** opposite the classic Poop Chute PirateV2/3**** - fa: md
3 Skalawag Mantle V3/4**  - fa: md
4 V3/4** short sit scoop pockets left side - fa=rs?
5 V1/2** crack corner low start - fa=rs?
6 Tall Bastard V8/9**** tough and possibly reachy left arete - fa: a?
7 V5/6/7/8/9!? traverse from Drunk as a Skunk left around Tall Bastard into V1/2/#5 corner - fa=!?
8 Drunk as a Skunk V6**** start in hueco and crimp and crawl up over bulge - fa: rs
9 V1/2*** pull over bulge on far right side - fa=cb?
10 V2**** lip traverse far right side - fa: rs/md

new fa's as of 3/15:
11 Funky Monkey V2/3*** sit or VB/0 stand - fa=cs
12 Drunk Monkey V3/4*** Drunk sit into Monkey top - fa=cs
13 Tall Drunk Monkey** V4/5 Tall Bastard left arete sit into Funky Monkey - fa=cs
14 Mantonian V3/4*** direct mantle stand - fa=jh
15 Mantonian Traverse? V4/5*** left sit into mantle - fa=cb
16 Newtonian Traverse V6/7** traverse low from #6 on far left to far right into V2/#10 - fa=cs
17 Lil Bastard V2/3* sit small boulder next to Drunk Skunk Boulder - fa=cb

*also some random new Biddles fa's as of 3/15:
18 Shake Hands With Beef V6/7/8***!? left low stand or low left sit trav into V9/10/11!? - fa=gzm
19 Blue Steel V6/7***** sit start Biddles Platinum then angle up right into Biddles Steel - fa=md
20 Twist and Shout V5*** sit start to Flap Your Wings - fa=jh
21 Flap Your Wings V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, high left top out - fa=jh
22 Flapper V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, right top out - fa=cs
23 Backstabber Arete Sit V6/7**** - fa=gzm
24 V6/7***? Copperhead into Zinc link-up - fa=md
25 ?