Friday, April 3, 2015

New Castle Zone FA's!

Sunnyvale Mountain + Biddles FA's 3/15!
***** = world classic / * = barely worthy

Drunk as a Skunk Boulder
original problems - l to r:
Skalawag V1/2** - fa: md
Skalawag Traverse V2/3*** main problem (opposite the classic Poop Chute PirateV2/3***) - fa: md
Skalawag Mantle V3/4**  - fa: md
V3/4** short sit scoop pockets left side - fa=rs?
V1/2* crack corner low start - fa=rs?
Tall Bastard V8/9***  - fa: a?
V5/6/7/8/9!? traverse from Drunk as a Skunk left around Tall Bastard into V1/2 crack corner - fa=!??
Drunk as a Skunk V6**** - fa: rs
V1/2** pull over bulge on far right side - fa=cb?
V2*** lip traverse far right side - fa: rs/md

new fa's as of 3/15:
Funky Monkey V2/3*** sit or VB/0 stand - fa=cs
Drunk Monkey aka Skunky Funky V3/4*** Drunk sit into Monkey top - fa=cs
Tall Drunk Monkey** V4/5 Tall Bastard left arete sit into Funky Monkey - fa=cs
Mantonian V3/4*** direct mantle stand - fa=jh
Mantonian Traverse? V4/5*** left sit into mantle - fa=cb
Newtonian Traverse V6/7** traverse low from far left to far right - fa=cs
Lil Bastard V2/3 sit small boulder next to Drunk Skunk Boulder - fa=cb


*also some random new Biddles fa's as of 3/15:
Shake Hands With Beef V6/7/8!? left low stand or low left sit trav into V9/10/11!!?? - fa=gzm
Blue Steel V6/7***** sit start Biddles Platinum then angle up right into Biddles Steel - fa=md
Twist and Shout V5*** sit start to Flap Your Wings - fa=jh
Flap Your Wings V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, high left top out - fa=jh
Flapper V4** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, right top out - fa=cs
Backstabber Arete Sit V6/7/8!? - fa=gzm
V6***? Copperhead into Zinc link-up - fa=md
















Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Bay Area Bouldering eBook update 2015!!


Check out the newly updated 2015 eBook edition of Bay Area Bouldering by SuperTopo:

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/bayareaboulder.html



Bay Area Bouldering eBook update 2015 stats:

3 new areas briefly mentioned. More detailed info for the new areas and more new areas to come in the future eBook and print book editions.

Over 75 new problems from VB to V12!

4 new V11's (one is V11r)!

Replaced and re-cropped some pics and added many new color pics (2 V11 fa pics - see below)!

All pic caps are updated to be more descriptive and even funny now.

Added more photographer credit and photographer website links.

Fixed some route descriptions and some directions and added more mile marker info to help find where to park along highways.

Added more fa credit for some of the classics.

New/updated/researched names and history.

Updated dining and amenities.




Clay Breitweiser - Biddles

Darren Wiemeyer - Sugarloaf Ridge

Frankie Ocasio - Mickeys Beach

Giovanni Traversi - Mendo

Gavin Honda - Aquarian Valley
Photo: Robbie Temmerman 

Valentine Cullen - Granite Creek

Kevin Jorgeson - Mickeys Beach

Mark Heal - Mt Tam

Sarah McKay - Fort Ross
Photo: McKay Collection 

Shawn Rogers - Super Slab

Travis Lombardo - Mendo
Photo: Mike Shoys mikeshoys.com








Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Washoe Boulders Nevada - Winter 2015















Washoe Boulders, Carson City, Nevada - "Winter" (March) 2015

Desert volcanic welded tuff boulders, wild horses, sweet views and four-wheelin just on the outskirts of town.

Possible first ascents of 4 V4ish problems near the classic "Hollywood Hangover" (V8/9!?) at the Lower Washoe Boulders in Carson City Nevada:

"Gastoned" V3/4 stand, V4 direct sit - traverse low from left to right past classic gaston match moves up into the fun V1 right arete - or direct face (no arete) variation dyno to add a /(slash) grade (V4, V4/5) or dyno by itself is V1/2 stand start no right arete to big pointy jug on lip.

"Hangover Traverse" V4 start right arete sit (V3 by itself into V1 stand) then traverse past no-hands rest at base of Hollywood Hangover and then bust a final V1/2 section to no-hands finish in the big wide crack.  

"Wild Horses" V4/5 traverse low from far right to far left around corner. Long and pumpy with three distinct and varied crux bulges.
         
Some of these or even all of these may have been done before but they had the tell-tale signs of fa's; no chalk but chalk on problems next to them, partially uncharted area separate from the already not so popular main area and loose and/or uncleaned holds. If not fa's they were fun problems anyways and I will delete these nicknames if/when I find out someday :)

Lower Washoe Boulders - YouTube

"Gastoned" V4 fa!? - YouTube

and some of the original Washoe classics: 
"Jason Lives" V3 + "Storm Cycle" V5 - YouTube

The Washoe Boulders and possibly also the nearby Prison Hill bouldering area will most likely be covered in the small "nearby areas" section of the next edition of my Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo. The updated info will be coming out in a few years in the print book format but hopefully this year in the eBook version. For now check out a lot of info for Washoe in our Lake Tahoe Bouldering eBook which is not available in print format any longer but is available at the link above on SuperTopo.com as an eBook. Now that the new and more comprehensive, locally published Tahoe Bouldering Guides are out we are no longer making the print book for Lake Tahoe Bouldering. Check out the new locally made Tahoe Bouldering Guides here: LakeTahoeBouldering.com

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Clear Lake Berryessa Bouldering Tour




























Bouldering areas listed south to north 1-10



















Locations on map are not precise. Follow written directions to established areas listed below or wait for more info to possibly come in future editions of my guidebooks also listed below or message me for info on the currently unlisted new/developing areas:
{potential = how much potential there still is for new first ascents in the area}

Other than the excellent Vacaville and Putah Creek basalt most of these rocks are not for everyone. Most boulderers may not want to drive on long back roads to a small wild place with only a handful of funky problems until they have tried the other more popular and easier to find and access main local areas. These rocks could be good for you if you like to get out and see something new or if you are in the area. Have fun :) cheers!!




Solano County Basalt Areas (#1 #2)
The highest concentration of good moderate problems is at Vacaville and a few of the most classic as well as most of the harder problemos are at the similar but smaller Putah Creek.
For more info check out: Bay Area Bouldering by SuperTopo
 
#1 Vacaville aka NutTree
Two separate grassy hillsides of rock with nice oak trees and cows. The Stonewall and The Mother are the coolest boulders but the single must do problem is the intoxicatingly addictively fun classic Gimme My Forty Sucka! V1. 
{mostly tapped potential}
About 150 problems from VB to V9.

#2 Putah Creek aka Purgatory
This is the single best spot in the Clear Lake Berryessa area. The basalt is uniquely featured and steep. Many classics such as Welcome To Whine Country V8, Hellspawn V7 and SHP V5.  
{mostly tapped potential}
About 50 problems from VB to V9.

Putah Creek Bouldering YouTube


Lake Berryessa / Knoxville Areas (#3 - #7)
A cool drive after a rain when the paved road dips through the creek about 10 times! Depending how high the creek is you may need a 4x4 with clearance. These spread out areas are a mix of a few semi old spots and a few newer ones that are all a bit rough around the edges and have never been visited by more than a few locals a few times. At or near all of these areas is some mostly untapped potential for more new, mostly easier to moderate level problems. A unique mix of pocketed, edgey and cracked volcanic features along with some serpentine type green stone at Pope Creek and around Lake Berryessa. *#6 and #7 are closer to Lower Lake/Clear Lake than Lake Berryessa but they are near the adjacent Knoxville so they are considered part of the Knoxville areas. The main area out of all of these is the roadside Billboard Boulder (#7) and it is the closest to Clear Lake but as mentioned above it is very near Knoxville that is in between Clear Lake and Lake Berryessa.
 
#3 Lake Berryessa
This area has a lot of rocks but most have unsure access and some are sadly on Private Property. There are some established boulder problems spread around. Most are at the newly developing Sunshine Boulders below the bridge on the northwest side of the Lake and nearby at Pope Creek (listed below #4).
{big potential - access issues}
About 25 problems from VB to V5.

#4 Pope Creek
Poison Oak and weird short or tall problems and kinda chossy yet unique rock. Pumpy traverse. Pope Creek/Heritage Rock is the main area with legit access and the other area, The Drought Boulder has the classic "Redemption" (V4 sit V3 stand) but also questionable access. There are a few more problems on these rocks to do and other rocks in the area to be explored.
{small potential}
About 10-15 problems from VB to V5.

"Redemption" V4 fa YouTube
  
Marc Bowen on the new "Drought Traverse" V4.











RC Hollenbeck "Drought Traverse".





















#5 Devilshead / Knoxville
Possible access issues here now. A few fun moderate and scenic highballs and a short fun crack on this slightly ominous and exposed pillar of stone. More potential in the area if you like splorin!
{small potential}
About 15 problems from V0 to V4.

#6 Bushwhack
Gnarly 15min uphill bushwhack hike - access unsure. Big boulders with a few grand problems.
{medium potential}
About 10 problems from VB to V6.

#7 The Billboard
Out of all the Berryessa/Knoxville areas this is the single best as far good and varied problems at a mix of grades with easy and fairly legit access (in a roadside creek with a huge pullout with a nice view and no fence or priv prop signs etc). *As stated above; this area is closer to Lower Lake/Clear Lake than Berryessa but it is near the adjacent Knoxville so it is considered part of the Knoxville areas.
{small potential}
About 15 problems from V0 to V6.

"The Billboard" V0r fa YouTube

"Billy Jack Traverse" V6 fa YouTube
  

Mount Konocti / Clear Lake Volcanic Areas (#8 #9)
Pocketed volcanic stone with mostly moderate lowballs and easy legit access with good landings. 
For more info check out: Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo

#8 Black Forest
Legit access to small pocketed boulders with flat landings and short mellow approach trails.
{small potential}
About 25 problems from VB to V6.

Lake County Bouldering YouTube


#9 Clear Lake State Park
Campsite 110 has a few fun problems and to the right of the park entrance.
{small potential}
About 10 problems from V1 to V3.


Bartlett Springs Road Area (#10)
A long drive on a deep back-cuts dirt road is required to the main Cascade area but other new unclimbed rocks could be lurking around any corner out there.

#10 Cascade Falls
Several boulders spread out in the cool cascading creek alongside the road in bum fuk.
{medium potential}
About 15 problems from V0 to V6+!?



Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Pope Creek Boulders

Pope Creek Boulders
My grandma was from nearby Pope Valley so this is part of my heritage. Not the best quality rock but for how back country it feels it is a cool little spot. Easy public access along the creek with good fishing and roadside parking for the wilderness area. Not worth a long drive unless combined with other nearby areas but good if you're in the area since there's not much around :)

* = low quality
** = ok/average
*** = good!
**** = great!!
***** = world classic!!!

1 V1** stand start 1-move-wonder.
2 V2* right sit up left into #1.
3 The Pope V5** low left roof sit right into #1.
4 Heritage V4*** same low left roof sit up left.
5 Heritage Traverse V5** same sit then go left.
6 V0** sit start short bulge pull onto big ledge.
7 V1** low left sit start on rail up to ledge.
8 V4** bulge traverse from #6 to #9 or reverse.
9 Poison Oakey V1** slab face traverse on back. 
10 Top out up left or up right onto high slab!?
11 V1-V3* old overgrown boulder face(s)!?
12 V0-V1 face on front and on opposite boulder!?
?? Top-rope face/arete over poison oak!!??
*Fun easy up/down climb gully on back side.


Heritage Traverse V5fa YouTube



Thursday, October 30, 2014

McKee County Park Boulders

More delicious new Mendocino bouldering!

 Russian River Headwaters


 Joshua Anderson on his direct V6fa!


 Joshua Anderson on "Pothead" V3 low sit 2nd ascent!


Chris Summit on "Synergy" V5fa!
Photos: Joshua Anderson


Addison Cox on "Synergy" V5


Addison Cox high on a new V4fa!


 Addison Cox on a short fun V4fa


McKee County Park Boulders, East Fork Russian River, Potter Valley, Mendocino CA
Most of the easier to moderate lowball to medium size problems have been done but there is potential for a lot more easy to moderate highballs as well as some big tough looking projects!! :)

* = low quality
** = ok/average
*** = good!
**** = great!!
***** = world classic!!!

Right to Left:

Pothead Boulder
Right to Left - downclimb #4 Pothead or jump to adjacent VB slab boulder (#12) and downclimb!? Bring shorts and maybe even sandals to cross creek (waist deep in summer/fall) - not good in winter or spring when creek is high - great on hot summer days! Also bring fishing pole for trout. Small but beautiful area with chill beaches, fishing, short hike and roadside access. 1 min approach from legit parking lot at McKee Creek County Park or from pullouts along Potter Valley Rd about 1 mile from CA20 west of Ukiah and Lake Mendocino. My grandma grew up in Potter Valley and some of the other side of my family lives there so I am sort of a local!?

    Pothead Boulder
    *Recommended seasonal (Summer/Fall) creek crossing zone*  



1 "?" V6? traverse uphill from low sit start below rail on right side of main face (same as #5) or "?" V7!? full traverse from sit start farther right next to creek on far right to the far left into #6 to finish!? FA=?

2 "?" V2/3?** sit start far right and up? (mossy ) FA=RT/CS 90's?

3 "?" V2/3?** same sit but up left variation? (mossy) FA=RT/CS 90's?

4 "Pothead" V3**** low sit start (same as #7 and #8) center of main face then up over steep bulge V1** stand or V2*** mid sit on jug - downclimb) FA=CS 90's

5 "Pothead Traverse" V4*** fun link-up traverse from low sit start same as #1 below horizontal rail on right side of main face and traverse left and up into Pothead. FA=CS 90's

6 "Sleeping Beauty" V3**** sit start compression sidepulls and go up to jug top! V2*** stand
- or "Sleeping Pothead" V3** same sit then traverse right into #4 FA=JA/CS 2014

7 "Synergy" V5**** low right sit start same as Pothead #5 then low left up into #6. Adds more fun heel-hook compression moves into the mega classic Sleeping Beauty! FA=CS 2014

8 "No Tape" V6**** low right sit same as #7 then direct straight up then left into #6 FA=JA 2014

9 "?" V4*** low start on far left with rock slab at your back and angle up right into the top out of #6! (or into undone direct straight up left scary top out over rock!?) FA=AC 2014

10 "?" V? backside left? FA=?

11 "?" V? backside right? FA=?

12 "?" V3*** or V4** direct with no left jug - small boulder behind #6+7 FA=AC/CS 2014


Main McKee Boulders

13 "?" overhang/roof?

14 "?" short face/arete?

15 "?" slab(s)!

16 "?" high arete/face?

17 "?" big high sicky!?

18 ?

19

20?


Fishing Hole Boulder
(On the trail down to the main fishing hole #1 just below the parking lot. No river crossing needed - you can see the Pothead Boulder across the river just upstream. Micro size but a nice mix of slab to slightly steep. Partial sun all day so it's climbable all year, if it's dry. Many fun lowball variations!)

21 "Fish On" V1** stand V3*** low stand V4/5** sit FA=CS 2015 - or V6/7 low scrunchy sit project!?

22 "?" direct up into top of #21+23!?

23 "Fishing Hole Arete" V1** stand V2/3* sit V3/4** low sit - up direct into prow top out or around left into #25 traverse in reverse for a bit more challenge and fun FA=CS 2015

24 "Fishhead" V0 slab FA=EB 2014

25 "Mossy Stroke" V1 traverse from far left side, left of #27 below the top lip to far right into #24 FA=J? 2015

26 "Fishing Hole Traverse" V5? sit #21 then traverse left into #25 in reverse?

27 VB stand start short slab face on far left side.

Jeff does first ascent of "Mossy Stroke" V1!?

"Fish On" V4/5 sit fa!



The Mini Pinnacles
(Further down the road toward Potter Valley)

28 "?" face FA=?

29 "?" crimp dyno face? FA=?

30 "?" sit start roof? FA=?



FA's = =
Original old school classics: Chris Summit, Ryan Tolentino
New school classics: Joshua Anderson, Addison Cox

"Synergy" V5 FA YouTube

Look for this area to possibly be in the next eBook update of Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo coming this Summer/Fall 2015 along with a lot of other possible new additions around Mendo, Shasta, The Bay Area and Lake Tahoe! For now check it out here:
Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo