Saturday, November 20, 2010

Friday, October 29, 2010

Cliff is in the House!

Cliff House Boulders!!

Seal Rocks Sunset

Benny Kong repeats Redonkulous (V3) on the north
side of the Cliff House at the Sutro Boulders

Benny warming up on the high, classic
(V0) warm up crack

Benny on his classic Flesh Wound
(V5 fa!?)

Benny on Flesh Wound crux

Aron Quiter does the center (V0) high

Aron on Fingerbanged (V3 start)

Ari Oppenheimer does Archeology (V0)

Ari on Fingerbanged

Ari does Shipwreck (V2 fa!? direct variation)

Finger Wound aka Like A V6 (fa!?)

Bellyacher / Wounded Knee Traverse

Cliff House Boulders

Benny Kong on "Flesh Wound" V5

The Cliff House at Ocean Beach in San Francisco has some great bouldering along the beach at the base of the actual namesake cliff faces on the north end of Ocean Beach. The Sutro Boulders are around the other side below the Cliff House and near the Sutro Baths. The rock is a common Northern California, Pacific Coast greenstone/sandstone with cracks, edges and a few pockets and slopers. The top outs are often sandy/dirty and may even have some broken glass and bushes to contend with but you're usually over a nice sandy landing albeit a bit highball even when the sand is in. The sand is at its highest level in the summer/fall season. When the sand is at its lowest in winter/spring all the problems are R or even can be R/X rated with pools of water, hard packed sand and even debris often filling the landing zones. In spring/summer the rock will be much more raw and adventurous feeling ~ often wet, sandy and parts can sometimes even be covered in a wet slime.

Cliff House bouldering photos:

Original first ascent names and history are lost in the sands of time for now but what is known is that many San Francisco locals have top roped and bouldered on these rocks for decades. Scott Loomis et al may have done some of the first lines and Benny Kong, Kevin Kinnison and crew re-discovered and brought back to life the old school problems and along with some help from myself and a few other random locals added several of our own possibly new low starts, link ups and traverses. Benny and his crew are to credit for the complete/final development of what is in my opinion the best place to boulder in Frisco! It is a close tie with the similarly difficult and highball Glen Canyon but what can beat hanging out at the beach!? :)
!!2015 - GLEN CANYON HAS CURRENT ACCESS ISSUES (even more reason to climb here)!!

Benny Kong on "Happy Ending" V5

The classic finger crack now nicknamed "Fingerbanged" (V2/3/4) was most recently first done just a couple years ago by Benny's friend (Kevin ?) and I have heard of a few friends that have done it as well before that but possibly never did the low low starts and they never nicknamed it. There have probably been many more ascents of the main crack since it is in Frisco but for now its got a nickname. Possibly all of these problems have been climbed for years by random locals but most info is unknown at this time - if you know anything about the history of climbing at the Cliff House like who installed the old bolt on top of the roof/face/crack please inform either Benny or I .

..and enjoy some fine sandy beach bouldering in a touristy yet crazy gorgeous mega chill spot! :)

EDIT (11-7-10) - After checking out the old Jensen Bay Area Guide I'm thinking that the new school steep finger crack nicknamed "Fingerbanged" could be "The Old Man And The Sea" (5.12a) top rope - now a classic highball V2/3/4!!??


A Climbing Porn Short - Cliff House Crag

A Climbing Porn Short - High Fructose Corn Syrup

A Climbing Porn Short - Punk Ass Decepticon

A Climbing Porn Short - Ocean Beach (sand is low = highballn!!)

A Climbing Porn Short - Happy Ending

Fingerbanged V3 - YOUTUBE

Like A V6 fa! - YOUTUBE

Shipwreck V1/2 fa! (direct variation to Defrostifarian) - YOUTUBE

Cliff House .com

Sutro Baths .com

{The topo pic was taken in fall when the fluctuating sand level is at its highest point of the summer/fall season. All the problems in the topo pic are highball / R or even can be R/X rated when the sand is low in winter/spring and pools of water with hard packed sand and even debris often fill the landing zone - the tide comes in quicker this time of year as well so look out for creeper waves! The cave is often wet in winter as well from seapage, cold air and lack of sunlight. There can also be a wet slime covering a lot of the rock in the winter/spring time. By early summer the slime usually has dried up and the sand will start to rise up. By late summer after busy weekends the cave can sometimes be smelly from being used as a bathroom but nothing a high tide can't clear out. Try to hit the goldilocks zones of late spring/early summer for highball action or the best ~ late summer/fall.}

1 Warm Up Traverse V2/3 l to r from far left into #10 -or- V1/2 r to l from the no-hands rest start below #6 + #7 -or- V2 from #10 to the far left to finish.

2 V0?

3 V0/1? -or- dyno variation V1/2!?

4 Archaeology V0 crack corner.

5 V0 diagonal crack rail.

6 V0?

7 V0 crack/face.

8 V1 sit start steep pillar up left into crack.

9 Defrostifarian V1 sit start steep pillar into roof direct -or- Shipwreck V1/2 sit start only
using center pillar (no right or left cracks)

10 Warm Up Crack (aka Batman Crack) V0 high sand stand start -or- V1 low sand/sit start wide crack --or-- Batman Forever V! bat hang! hang upside down from 2 (or 1!) feets!! :)

11 Flesh Wound V5 stand start face right of arete direct past pocket, no left arete! -or- V5/6 sit/low sand stand start -or- use arete V3/4 ??

12 "The Old Man And The Sea" 5.11+/12- old school top rope AKA: Fingerbanged new school V2 stand start boulder problem -or- V3 left stand start -or- V4 right sit/low sand start.

13 direct face right of Fingerbanged up into Rock Jitsu Project (V!!??)

14 Bellyacher Traverse V4 traverse from the far right face start low and left into the main Warm Up Traverse! or V5 undercling start!

15 Like A V6 (aka Finger Wound) sit start on the right same as Old Man And The Sea / Fingerbanged and the Bellyacher and traverse low and left into the sit start of Flesh Wound and top it out!

16 Wounded Knee Traverse V7 start on jug knob/horn right of undercling (or sit below it V7/8?) then traverse left into Bellyacher start - or do the new hard cave start to Wounded Knee for the entire Cliff House Traverse (V8/9!!??) - - LOW SAND Low Traverse V4 start in cave and traverse the line of sloper jugs and cracks across the main to finish on the far left - mega pumpy!!

17 Happy Ending V4 sit start below jug knob/horn (start of Wounded Knee) or V3 stand start on jug knob/horn and go up to crack jug then step back to slab on opposite side of cave and finish up the slab to top out - or Happier Ending V5 start in cave same as the Cliff House Traverse and traverse left to finish on Happy Ending - or Crappy Ending (V5 stand or V6!?) sit start Happy Ending and reverse traverse right to finish at the start of the traverse in the cave - or Crappier Ending V6 start on slab and reverse the swing move into Crappy Ending to finish - or Rock Jitsu V3 start on slab then reverse the swing move to the jug knob/horn at the start of Wounded Knee and then go up a few moves to the crack jug and step back to slab to finish the same as Happy Ending (do a complete 36o!) - or Rock Jitsu Project!? (V!!?) continue up from the crack jug and climb up left out of the tight cave corridor into Fingerbanged to top out - spotter and/or pads on the slab behind are a must.

18 Toof Roof V5 hanging tooth in cave - sit start then up left and back right to hang and drop off finish matched on high right hand layback in center of cave - or Toof Roof Direct (V!??) - or Cave Project (V-hard!?) - or Toof Roof Traverse V4 start same as Cliff House Traverse then traverse right to same hang and drop finish as Toof Roof - or sit start Toof Roof and reverse Toof Roof Traverse left into Happier Ending (V?) or Cliff House Traverse (V!?) - or start on far right and do swing move from slab onto the top of the Cave Project then traverse left into Toof Roof Traverse and finish either Happier Ending (V!?) or Cliff House Traverse (V!!??)

19 Cliff House Slab VB many slab/face/crack variations and a long fun slab traverse! (V!R no hands!!! :)

20 ! ! ? ?

Thursday, October 21, 2010

"Finger Wound Sit" (V6 FA!?)

"Finger Wound Sit" aka "Like A V6" (V6) FA!(?) Link-up of the hard right sit start to the classic "Fingerbanged" up left into the start of the excellent "Flesh Wound"stand start - - "Finger Wound" lives up to its name, it gave me a numb left pointer finger tip and a small flapper on the left middle finger.

At the (newly developed!) Cliff House Boulders, Ocean Beach (north end),
San Francisco CA 10-20-10 :)

Thanks to Benny for discovering/rediscovering these sweet rocks!


"Finger Wound Sit" aka "Like A V6" (V6 FA!?) Cliff House Boulders - YOUTUBE

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Chuck B sends prow project at Rock Creek!

Charlie Barrett sends prow project at Rock Creek! Sit start to "Compression Session" - -
" ? " (V13!?)!;

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Booger Eater

I just got one of the last good/hard projects on the new Booger Boulder at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park - Booger Eater V5/6!? fa!

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Pro-crastination 1

Pro-crastination (stand V5 sit V7) at the "new-ish" Lakeview Boulders on Mt Tam in Marin County. Pro-crastination is one of the best problems on the mountain and the sit start is the most difficult up-problem {and it is still unrepeated}!?
First Ascent: Ken Ariza 2007!?

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Spicer -Labor Day

Spicer - slideshow/video 2010

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering / Climbing

Big props to Darren W (Splitclimber) for finding some new problems at some of the old boulders and even some good new boulders of his own as well as reigniting the flame of psyche at The Loaf!!

**Update ~ 2018:
2016/17/18 was huge for bouldering at The Loaf with many classic new first ascents mostly at The Sunrise Rocks which now have the hardest test-pieces and the highest concentration of problems in the park. Local legend Kevin Jorgeson put up direct low sit starts to a couple of my old problems for a V9/10 and V10 (both could be harder now since a few holds have broken and gotten smaller) along with Erika Bruno, Tiffany Canevari, Daniel Stone, Ryan Chung and myself adding a few more new lines as well. There is still at least one more possible double digit open project at The Loaf on the Sungazer Boulder traversing from the sit start of Sun God up right into Sungazer Direct finish.

**Update ~ 2016:
Gustav Zaharias, Garrett Rawlins "G Raw", Addison "Addy" Cox, Liz Balchowsky, Ryan "Mr T" Tolentino and I put up and are still finding and putting up many new problems in the Sonoma Creek Canyon area. So far ~20 new boulders with ~50 new problems ~V1-V7/8ish. And the Sunrise Boulders are being brought back to life after a long hiatus offering ~25 new problems to add to the original ~25!

Check out more info and pics for Sugarloaf Ridge and many other bouldering spots around the Bay Area and all over Northern California in Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering both by SuperTopo.

8-27-10 NEW boulders have been found in the creek near the Upper Canyon Trail Area!
About 30 new problems to add to the 125 in the area makes over 150 total new and old boulder problems at The Loaf now! Most of these boulders have legit access, good trails or easy scrambling and short (1 to 15 minute) approaches. The also short 15-45 minute drive from either the Santa Rosa or Napa/Sonoma areas makes it certain - this is now Sonoma Counties best inland bouldering area for moderate levels (VB/0 - V6/7) or for circuit training. Get out and enjoy the lush forests, waterfalls and unique rocks (schist, serpentine and volcanic-ish) - see you there!

2012(?) Oscar Gomez added a dynamic new V3ish sit start to an old stand start on The Crown Roof at the semi-secret, old school, Coraza Boulders. Great job reigniting the flame of stoke at The Loaf!

Loaf Bouldering is reborn ~ again!!


Below are some rough maps, topo pics and info for nearly all of the boulder problems found inside the park - The NEW Upper Creek Boulders (Upper/Middle/Lower) and the main Upper and Lower Canyon Trail Boulders, The Biscuit Boulder and Sacred Rocks near the Goodspeed Trailhead and the seldom visited Sunrise Rocks off of Meadow Trail;


The old/new Crown Roof at the Coraza Boulders
The original old school bouldering zone with a nice assortment of problems and a sweet view!
(Be very careful topping out the Crown Roof or just drop off at the lip and spare the risk)
1 "El Corazon" V1 far left roof into same top as old school.
2 "Old School" V1 mini classic left roof over rock to jug top out.
3 "Noble" V1 left-center roof left top out / or V1/2? right top out?
4 "The Crown" V3/4 direct out center of roof via undercling right and drop - or top out V4 / or V? left?
5 "Sizzling Bacon" V2 low sit then deadpoint/bump up left and drop - or top out V2/3.
6 "Sizzlean" V2/3 same low sit then into right variation and drop off or top out V3?
7 V2/3/4 lip traverse(s) either direction link ups!?
8 VB back side slab of Obelisk - up/down climb.
9  medium tall and steep problem with semi bad tree stump landing on cliffside below Fern Gully V!?
10 ?


[Off Goodspeed Trail - take a right turn onto a feint deer trail just after the second bridge at the start of Goodspeed Trail (the trail up to Hood Mountain from the southeast/Sugarloaf Ridge side - follow the trail up the creek to a smaller rocky creek coming down the hill on the right side - follow it uphill for about 3-5 minutes to The Biscuit on the hillside on the right side - total hike time = about 10 minutes from the parking area on the northwest side of Adobe Canyon Rd at the Goodspeed Trailhead]

1 V0/1 left arete/face.
2 "Buttercup" V3/4 sit start on horizontal crack or "Buttercup Dyno" V4/5 dyno!
3 V1/2 face.
4 "Butterscotch" V2r high face with natural thread.
5 "The Biscuit" V2/3 right face diagonal traverse.
6 "Biscuit Traverse" V3/4 traverse rail left to right up into #5.
7 ?

[Off Goodspeed Trail - follow the same directions to The Biscuit but don't go up the final creek on the right instead stay in the main creek mostly hiking on the hillside on the right side of the creek but also in and out of the creek doing some bushwhacking and rock hopping then along the left side of the creek to get to the obvious boulders that form an arch over the creek - the boulder on the right side has problems #1-2, the big main rock has the long, classic traverses #3-4 and the classic Call of the Wild #5 and the smaller rock next to it has the harder problems #7-8 - - there are a few other boulders in the area both upstream and downstream from the main Sacred Rocks - total hike time = about 15-25 minutes from the parking area]

1 "Safari" V0r high face on right side of right boulder.
2 "Sacrifice" V3 arete over creek on right boulder (left of #1).
3 "The Sacred Traverse" V2 high V3 low.
4 "The Sugar Traverse" V3/4 high V4/5 low.
5 "Call of the Wild" V2 right side of main rock.
6 "Call of Ktulu" V2 sit start short arete opposite #5.
7 "Enchanted" V4 start #6 then traverse lip to right past the top of #8.
8 "White Fang" V6 left or right variations - pull past namesake tooth on overhang.
9 ?
10 ?

[Park at the first pullouts uphill from the Goodspeed Trail parking lot - and take a right turn onto (Lower) Canyon Trail - follow the trail for just a few feet downhill to a large tree on the right side and then take a feint trail downhill to the creek and The Asteroid Boulders - the Neptune Boulders are just a few more minutes down stream - total hike time = about 3-5 minutes to The Asteroid Boulders and about 5-10 min to Neptune]

{problems 1-3 are currently and possibly forever unclimbable due to fallen tree(s))
1 V1/2 left face stand start.
2 "Cosmic" V2/3 stand - V4/5 sit.
3 "Milky Way Traverse" V7 sit #2 or V6 stand.
4 "Assteroid" V0 sit right side short bulge.
5 "Orbit" V5 low start - V2 stand.
6 "Uranus" V3 low sit start opposite #5.
7 "The Fifth Element" V5 sit - V4 stand.
8 ?

1 "Neptune" V6/7 sit - V6 stand.
2 "Neptune Direct" V6/7 sit V6 stand.
3 ?


This area has the highest concentration of problems and easiest access - it is divided into two main zones with the first being the newly developed zone closest to the parking in the creek and is called the SONOMA CREE CANYON / UPPER CREEK BOULDERS and the other more established main area known as the CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS / UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are down Canyon Trail from the upper parking area - seperate directions are listed for both areas below;
Upper Canyon Trailhead

[Park the same as for the main Canyon Trail Boulders at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is across the road to the southwest and Pony Gate Trailhead starts from the northeast side of the pullout - across the road from Pony Gate Trailhead just up the road from the pullout is a feint trail down into the creek and the Booger Boulder - The Chatterbox is on the hill above and behind The Booger, hike up the road to the next feint trail then cross the creek and hike uphill past a mossy rock to the boulder - total hike time = about 1 minute from the parking area to the base of The Booger and about 2-3 min to The Chatterbox and about 5-25 min of 3rd and 4th class scrambling down the steep and rocky Sonoma Creek Canyon (summer/fall) to all the other boulders ~ or up from the waterfall in the Lower Canyon Trail area.]

1 "Sneeze" V1 sit V0 stand left arete.
2 "Booger Face" V1r stand V2 sit into left arete or V2/3 into direct right (V1r stand) face finish.
3 "Hairy Booger" V2r stand start gaston rail/face over rock/water V3/4 sit start right hand on incut mini jug/edge.
3A ? high face/arete over rock/water!?
4 "Booger Traverse" V4 stand start at big righ hand undercling then traverse right along the lip into the V1/2 finish of Booger Finger - or V4/5 low sit start on right hand sidepull/undercling edge and left on low gaston or lower undercling.
4A ? stand start same as #4 then traverse up left to finish on #1 or #2?? or do the low sit?? or !? traverse the entire main face of The Booger either left to right from #1 into #7 or right to left from #7 sit into #1 to finish - "The Big Booger Traverse"!!??
5 "Snot" V1 stand V2 sit start with low left hand incut mini jug/edge.
6 "Stinging Nettle" V3 sit start just left of incut start hold of Booger Finger and go up left into #5
7 "Booger Finger" V3 low sit into 3 stand starts/finishes; either "Booger Direct" V1 (stand start) top out direct or V1/2 (stand start) traverse up right around corner on sloper lip to mid way mantle top out (V0 stand start off rock) or V2 (stand start) continue traversing higher up right past loose block to the tip top of boulder for the most fun, pumpy classic method and also the end of the Booger Traverse.
7A "Sugar Booger" V4 sit start same as Booger Finger then traverse sloper lip up left into Snot V0 stand or "Hairy Sugar Booger" V5 same start then continue traversing left up into Hairy Booger.

8 "Nasal Cavity" V3 same sit as #9 then left past nose/horn or start on nose/horn V1/2 or low sit V3/4 start on left hand dihedral seam crimp and make move up right to horn - - or lower !?
9 "Nose Pincher" V1 stand start on upper right hand meat-wrap/nose pinch or "Nose Picker" V4 low. sit or V2/3 mid way start on sloper/crimper rail.
10 "Booger Eater" V6 low sit start #10 up left into #9 the test-piece of the boulder FA=CS
(new - not shown on topo - YouTube:
or "Dirty Booger" V4/5 low sit start up right into #11 or V5/6 sit start.
11 "Olfactory" V0 stand start bulge slab face into the downclimb (#12) to top out.
12 VB easiest way up/down - downclimb.
13 "Nasophilia" V0 steep slab face left or "Mucus Membrane" V1 low sit right arete or V0 stand.
14 short steep sit downstream - left face direct or right arete?
15 stand start short bulge/face in creek next to #14?

1 "Rum Remedy" V3/4 sit or V4/5 low sit - AKA "Rumedy"
2 "Hangover Arete" V2/3 low sit up right arete.
3 V1/2 low sit bail right to jug.

1 "Chatterbox" V2 stand face on left V2/3 sit.
2 "Hotbox" V2/3 stand V3 sit.
3 "Keep Quiet" V2 stand start V3 sit start steep slab face right of tree then up left into #1.
4 "Tree Spotter" V1 right side of face right of tree.
5 V0 right arete from low face start.
6 "Chatterbox Traverse" V3/4 L to R or best R to L into #1 to finish.
7 VB right arete/lip traverse up left to top.

1 "Jug Top" V1 sit.
2 "Sweet Tooth" aka "Pinball Wizard" V!? project!?
3 VB traverse from right to left and up.

1 V0
2 V0/1
3 "Tree Top Traverse" V1/2 traverse usually from far r to l into #1.
4 "Tree Top Left" V0
5 "Tree Top Right" V0

6 ? V1 traverse lip from far right to left end on #4.
7 ? V2/3 low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to left end on #4.
8 "3 Move Blunder" left V2 sit or right V1 sit.
9 V0 stand start V1 low start small boulder.

10 "Heavens Gate" V3/4!? sloper lip - or "The Black Mirror" V!? low start crimper project!?
(below Tree Top blocking creek)
11 ? start lip same as #10 traverse left and top out!?

1 "Lost And Found Arete" V1 stand V3 sit start.
2 "Apex" V2 stand start pocket or V4 mid start or "All Rise" V6 sit (direct face/no arete).

Highball arete in creek!?
Lip traverse or mantle?
Short bulge?

1 V0/1 arete!?
2 "The Gypsy" V3 low sit on left arete or "Gypsy Direct" V3 direct undercling start - top out.
3 "Gypsy Traverse" V6 traverse from left to far right.

1 "Left Eggotronic" V3/4?
2 "Right Eggotronic" V3/4?
3 low mega hard sit project(s)!?

1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!?
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start?
3 ? low sit - bad landing - short but good!?
4 "Lost + Found" (on previous topo pic)
5 ?

1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!? (on previous topo pic)
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start? (on previous topo pic)
3 ? low sit - bad landing - short but good!? (on previous topo pic)
4 ? shorty?
5 ?

1 ? left crack corner - tight squeeze?
2 "Volcano Crack" V0 layback/corner crack to jug mantle - downclimb left.
3 "Volcano Direct" V0/1 stand start crack/arete or V? low start - downclimb left.
4 ? crack on right - downclimb left? ? crack to high dirty slab traverse up left to downclimb!?
5 ? traverse/prow!??
6 ?
7 ?

1 "Amphibian Crack" V0/1? crack traverse r to l to no-hands knee-bar.
2 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse!? (#5 on previous topo pic)
3 ? traverse/prow!?? (#6 on previous topo pic)

1 ? diagonal crack?
2 ? direct boulder problem?
3 ? left boulder problem?
4 ? crack to low traverse over water!?
5 ? crack to high traverse!?
6 ? crack route - rope!??
7 *incomplete route!??

1 V1 short but good right rail start to lip mantle.
2 "Butt Dragger Traverse" l ro r into #1.
3 ? short left mantle?
4 ? short bulge face proj left or right!?
5 ? short arete/slab?
6 "Volcano Crack" V0 layback/corner to jug mantle - downclimb left. (5 CRACKS)
7 *Upper Falls Boulders / Lost + Found Boulder

1 "Swarmed" V5/6 low sit then diagonal up right into V1/2 stand or V2/3 stand start right hand arete and left hand sloper lump then make a move up to pinch and top out!
2 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R slick slab face over bad/rocky landing.
3 V1/2 low start same as #1 then traverse left and up into #2.
4 "The Hive" V4/5 start with right hand low on sidepull and traverse left into #3.
5 ? bulge/face?
6 ? slab?
7 ?
8 "Soundwave Traverse" V1
9 "Dry Hump" V6 short sit start bulge mantle!
10 ?

1 ? highball roof/face!?
2 ? slick slab under roof/face - left V? or direct/right!?
3 ? arete/prow?
4 ? short but good right start?
5 ? short left start?
6 "Swarmed" V5/6 (listed on previous boulder)
7 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R
8 high arete!??
9 V0 short bloc mantle or low start?
10 ?
11 "Beavis" V0 left boulder with right hand arete.
12 "Butthead" V1 sit or V2 right sit or "Smothers Brothers" V4 far left traverse finish.
13 V1 right face.
14 V!? short sit arete above Beavis and Butthead.
15 ?

1 "Skunky Funky" V4/5 low start arete/bulge or V3/4 stand start!
2 ? left start!?
3 ? right face over bad landing?
4 VB prow
5 V0 start VB prow then traverse right to VB on far right.
6 VB far right.
7 V0 traverse base of volcanic slab cliff - r to l - 40 feet long!

8 "Tower Of Power" V7? lower main face sit left into V0 crack/arete.
9 "Piano Man" V6/7? lower main face sit right into right arete #10!
10 "Tower Arete Traverse" V4 sit start right arete V2/3 stand start into #15.
11 "Tower Arete" V?/5.? highball/TR southeast arete stand? or V4? sit!?
12 "Rock Slide Traverse" V1 slab traverse up around upper aerie into #19.
13 face!?
14 upper arete?
15 upper face?
16 VB easy way up/down.
17 lower upper arete?
18 lower upper arete traverse?
19 left steep high face!?
20 ?

{problems 1-3 are currently and possibly forever unclimbable due to fallen tree(s))
(Creek above waterfall)

1 "From Dust To Dawn" V4/5R highball left arete bulge face!!
2 "?" Main line from right up left to high jug point on steep roof prow!!??
3 ?

{4-6 shown in above topo pic}
4 "From Dusk Til Dawn" V2/3 left
5 center direct sit low sit start!?
6 "From Dawn Til Dusk" V2/3 right

{7-8 shown in above top pic}
7 "When Doves Die" V5 left arete!
8 right arete low sit!?
9 ?
10 ?
11 ?
12 ?
(Hillside above waterfall)
13 ? slab/face direct/main old line?
14 ? slab/face right?
15 traverse??
16 high arete left or right side!!??
17 right face arete?
18 left roof/arete on hill!?
19 face/arete?
20 ?

[Park at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is directly across from the parking and heads downhill to the boulders and the seasonal waterfall - total hike time = 3-5 minutes to The Canyon Trail Boulder on the left and about a total of 5-7 minutes to the main area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS on the left just off the main trail just past the intersection of a smaller trail on the left that switches back down into the creek - it is about 7-10 minutes total from the upper parking area downhill to the base of the waterfall - to reiterate; the main bouldering area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are above the waterfall between the trail and the creek and the creek boulder is just below the main area in, you guessed it - the creek]

[off the left side of (Upper) Canyon Trail above C.T.Boulder]
1 "Spanky" !?
2 ?

[alongside Upper Canyon Trail]
1 "Trailblazer" V2 stand V5 low sit up face or "Trailblazer Direct" V5 same low sit then up left.
2 "Traiblazer Arete" V1 stand V3 low sit.
3 "Short n Sweet" V0 stand V1 low sit.
4 "Kids Climb" VB+ stand V0 sit.
5 "Fishy Climb" VB sit or VB- stand.
6 "Witches Peak" V0 slab arete mini spire -VB up or down-climb backside.
7 "Canyon Trail Traverse" V6 r to l low into #1 sit or V4 l to r from #1 sit.

[behind the main Canyon Trail Boulder - main face on backside]
1 "Bunchgrass" V1 sit start or V0 stand start arete.
2 "Leaf Liter" V0 stand - "Sweet Leaf" V3 sit center face or V0 stand or V1 sit center-right.
3 V0 sit.
4 "Hide" V3/4 diagonal seam/crack traverse - stay low - lip off - or use lip "Seek" V0/1.
5 V0 left of #1 low start.
[small front side of boulder facing Canyon Trail Boulder]
6 Four Ferns V6/7 low left sit right hand crimp (loose sharp plate, be careful)!
7 Lush Ferns V3 low right sit into same top out as #6.

*THE SUGARLOAF BOULDERS (Canyon Trail - Main Area)

1 "Nice" V0- left face/arete.
2 "Not So Nice" V0 center face.
3 "Snips + Snails" V0+ arete/face.

4 "Sugar" V1 arete.
5 "Spice" V2r highball face with slanted hillside landing - spicy!
6 "Old Spice" V1r crack/face.
7 "Spice Crack" V0r crack.
8 "Sugar + Spice Traverse" V1/2 start on #7 and traverse left and up into #1 - or "Snail Trail" V0/1 start #3 traverse up left into #1 or "Sugar Trail" V1/2 start #7 traverse left into Snail Trail.

1 ?
2 ?
3 ?
4 ?
5 ?

1 ?
2 ?

1 "Finga Tingla Bypass" V0 short but fun left corner/arete/face.
2 "Finga Tingla" V3r right of corner center of steep slab face.
3 "Smackdown" V1/2 stand - V3/4 low sit direct up high arete compression prow.
4 "Finga Tingla Traverse" V4 low traverse from #3 sit up left into #2 or V1/2 into #1.

5 "Sugar Smack Direct" V3/4 sit start on edges left of jug - jug is off.
6 "Sugar Smack" V1 stand V2 sit start on low square cut jug.
7 "Sugar Mama" V2 stand or V2/3 sit - face on far right, left arete is off.
8 "Sugar Daddy" V3 sit start #3 up right into #6.

1 "Love" V0 diagonal traverse up right on semi high arete/jug lip ~ great warmup!
2 "Love + Hate Face" V1/2 center face.
3 "Hate" V1/2 or V2/3 left arete - easier variation uses detached block for feet.
4 "Love + Hate Traverse" V4 right to left low into #3 - V3/4 left to right - block is off.

5 "Religion" V1 arete sit - V0 stand start.
6 "Politiks" V1/2 face sit - V0/1 stand start.
7 ?

1 "Pyramid Power Traverse" V4 low sit on right traverse up left or V2/3 mid sit.
2 "Pyramid Power" V3 sit start or "The Pyramid" V0 stand start on jug.
3 "Pyramid Power Direct" V5 link up eliminate - sit #2 skip jug u left into sloper on #4 and top.
4 "Pyramid Face" V2 start on sloper up into arete - try not to dab the feet.
5 "Pyramid Arete" aka "Try-Angle Arete" V4 low sit on left hand sloper arete and low right hand arete feature V2/3 mid stand - V1 high stand.
6 V2/3 sit roof/slab on back left side.
7 V2/3 left or V3/4 right - short face in pit on back right side of #1.

5 "Pyramid Arete" V4 low sit (see above)*
6 V2/3 sit bulge to slab.

1 "Left Wing" V1 left arete/face start left or right.
2 "Illuminaughty" V3/4 stand start same as #3 then left over short crimpy bulge.
3 "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 original classic semi highball corner!
4 "The Alchemist" V4 sit start on low square cut jug on right and traverse left and up into #3!
5 "Hips Don't Lie" V6 same sit on low square cut jug direct up face right of #3 left of #6! V4 stand.
6 "Santa Rosacrucian" V4 sit start on low square cut jug go up to right arete/lip top out aka or "Rosacrucian Traverse" V5 start #3.
7 "Right Arete" V1R right arete or "Right Wing" V3/4 sit #4 up into right arete or start #3 "Right Wing Traverse" V5!?
8 "Knights Templar" V5 sit start #4 end #2.
9 "911" V3 stand start same as #2 and #3 then traverse left into #1.
10 "Illuminasty Traverse" V4/5(?) start #6 or V5/6(?) start #7 traverse left into #9?

1 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit.
2 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit.
3 "Creek Face" V4/5/6 stand/sit ??
4 "Lockwood" V2/3 stand - V3/4 sit.
5 ? traverse !?
6 ?

1 "Flaming Arrow" V1 right arete sit V0 stand.
2 "Arrowhead" V3/4 center face low start.
3 "Arrowhead Arete" V2/3 left arete low start V0/1 stand.
4 "Arrowhead Traverse" V4/5 r to l - start on #3 finish #1.

5 V2/3 traverse r to l into #6.
6 V1/2 face.
7 ?



[Park at the Day Use Parking Lot inside the pay area at the top of Adobe Canyon Rd near the campground or, better yet, at the end of the road near the stables and observatory and walk to Meadow Trail and follow it to the first right turn and just before the turn take a left into the creek and try to follow feint deer trails uphill for about 5 more minutes to the rocks located between the creeks on the hill. Sunrise has the highest concentration of boulder problems and top ropes in the park!]

Sunrise Rocks -

    Sunrise Rocks Climbing

3 main lines with ~10 link up variations and traverses V0-V8
The hardest problem in the Sugarloaf/Adobe Cyn area is "Pipedream Sit" V8 FA: GZ

Adobe Canyon Boulder - YOUTUBE

Sugarloaf Ridge Park "The Loaf" Bouldering - YOUTUBE Playlist

Enjoy!!  :)