Wednesday, July 31, 2013


Mendocino County CA Bouldering Summer 2013 ~ soul bouldering some classic first ascents :)

Friday, July 12, 2013

Loon Lake Bouldering ACCESS ALERT

Loon Lake Bouldering

The Getaway Boulders and the adjacent Getaway Slabs are on Private Property and have No Trespassing signs currently in place. A few of the most difficult problems at Loon are/were found there and will be sorely missed but overall it is not devastating to the area. Pages 96-98 of Northern California Bouldering have the areas that are now CLOSED. There could possibly even be more areas around Loon that are on the same Private Property being closed as well if we do not respect the current boundaries. DO NOT attempt to access The Getaway Boulders or any private boulders in that area anymore because it will only have a negative impact on future access  :(

Thursday, July 4, 2013

Secrets Bouldering

Happy 4th of July!!!

Something about Secrets and of course the entire coastline in summer is extra attractive simply for the cooler temps. After many trips in every season I realized that all year can be all good or all bad out there. The peak of summer and the coastlines attractiveness though is 4th of July every year. So it is no wonder that a couple of the best first ascents on one of the best boulders on the entire Pacific Coastline of North America were done on 4th of July about(?) a dozen years ago exactly to this day. Those problems would usher in a new realm of hard problems on the Secrets sandstone like my "Sabretooth" and Kevin Jorgeson's highball V8 cave "?" next to it. Giovanni Traversi's currently even got an insane new project to possibly complete the half ass problem I did in the Orange Cave around the corner on the same boulder.
{The original 4th of July problems I put up are "Bottle Rocket" V4 and "Cherry Bomb" V4}

                                          Photo: Valentine Cullen

{{Secrets will stay a secret ~ directions are word of mouth only}}

I will eventually have most of the beta for Secrets bouldering on this blog for free :)

**Update - 2014 Secrets info; 

I am now going to begin to add all the topo pics (topographic climbing/bouldering specific photos) and coinciding route/problem beta/info as well as a lot of action pics and vids for all the best bouldering and the few good climbing routes at the amazing sandstone bouldering/climbing paradise Secrets in Salt Point State Park.

I've also never before published any other detailed info in any of my guidebooks or websites about rock climbing/bouldering at Secrets for 3 reasons;
1 it is called Secrets
2 there is plenty of other public rocks in the area
3  T a f o n i  is fragile. Hopefully this blog post will not increase the popularity of the area too much. This blog doesn't get a lot of traffic other than mostly friends and local climbers who probably already know about it anyways.

Due to a recent increase in popularity and the need to preserve the bouldering history before it is blown away in the sands of time I have created this ongoing collection of problems with names, ratings and first ascent info for the mega classics at this incredible coastal sandstone playground - please contribute any knowledge you have of names/ratings/history by emailing me at;

    Dean Fleming "Triceratops"
     Photo: Valentine Cullen

     Chris Summit "Sands of Time"
     Photo: Valentine Cullen