Saturday, November 12, 2011

The Untamed Rocks

Photo: Summitorplummet
The un-appreciated Untamed Rocks just north of Squaw Rock and South of Hopland off US101 in wild, uncharted, Mendocino County. About 5 climbs so far from 5.10-5.12 with more potential/projects! Most routes stay dry in the rain due to the huge blank overhanging headwalls (thus the name "Untamed") making it like an outdoor gym! Except this gym is natural and free :)

"Shit Face" aka "The Shrew" 5.10d/5.11a!? - slabby/vertical roadside sport climbing fun! 4 bolts + 2 bolt rap ring anchor.

Aron Quiter does "The Shrew" crux!

Aron at the "shit face" spot.

Aron on the final crux.

Aron at the anchors.

Sarah works "The Shrew" on TR.

Aron Quiter cleans a new arete line!

!!UPDATE 2014!!
Giovanni "G" Traversi brother of the world famous V15+ boulderer Carlo Traversi recently put up a new/undone arete below the main formation calling it "Ghost Dance" V11r!

Monday, November 7, 2011

Ukiah Bouldering

Chrisjitsu "Gap Crack" 5.9TR (V0R)

Marcos Nunez "Fuck You" V4R (5.12TR) Flash!

"Fuck You Traverse" V6 FA!

Sean Brady "Suspended Animation" V6 FA!

"Cherty Mind" V5 FA!

Aron Quiter "Cherty Mind" V3 stand 3rd ascent!

Katie Rose "Cherty Mind"

Ukiah Bouldering 2011 - YOUTUBE

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Clark Canyon Bouldering

The trailhead and the Parking Lot Boulder

"Summit Fever" V8 FA!

"Bump n Grind" V9? FA!


Parking Lot Boulder (a short bushwhack off the left of the crag trail)

*backside - left to right:
1 "Kurt's Problem" V6 stand V7 sit - mega classic rails to seam!
FA = Kurt Smith / 2nd ascent = Wilbur Nazarian - sit - FA = ??

2 "Summit Fever" V8 sit start right hand small pocket and left hand edge and boulder up left into #1 - or V7 stand start in sinker right hand two finger pocket. FA = Chris Summit

3 !? sit start right of #2 on same pocket but with left hand and angle up left into #2!?

4 !? do same sit as #3 then angle up right into or around #5!?

5 right hand arete!? or left hand arete/high slab face!?

*frontside(s) - left to right:
6 left arete(s)!?
7 center face!?
8 right side center face!?
9 right side traverse?
10 right side arete(s)!?

Parking Lot Boulders (around Parking Lot area)
11 face?
12 arete?
13 traverse?
14 !?
15 arete/face!?

Trailside Boulder (along the main trail about halfway to the crags)
*frontside - left to right:
16 "Trailside Slab" V3/4 the start is the crux!
FA = ??

17 "Bump n Grind" V9? sit start pocket under left hand sloper arete bulge - or V8? stand start bulge.
FA = Chris Summit (unrepeated!?)

18 "Bahl Hornin" V4 sit start or V2 direct left stand start or V1 right stand start on jug lip same as #19 but pull over and top out.
FA = Richie Esquibel

19 "Bahlers Traverse" V5 sit start #18 then traverse right along the lip into #20 or V2 from stand start on the jug lip into #20.
FA = Chris Summit

20 VB short up/down-climb on far uphill right side.

Clark Canyon Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Spirits Wall - Mt Tam

Photo: Summitorplummet
Eliot Carlsen does the first ascent of
the class-sick "High Spirits" V6/7R!

Ken Ariza found this awesome boulder and did most of the first ascents on it but this line was unsent until yesterday September 5 2011 when Eliot Carlsen snagged the first ascent - great job Kenny and Eliot!!

Spirits Wall has about 15 problems (V1-V7) and potential for more!?

Spirits Wall - left to right:
1 VB slab left or center
2 V0 corner crack
3 "Absinthe Makes The Heart Grow Fonder" V3/4R left arete FA=KA
4 "Beam Me Up" V5R straight up slab between #3 and #5 FA=KA
5 "Two Buck Chuck" V5/6R sit FA=KA
6 "High Spirits" V6/7R steep, sort of highball, center face!! FA=EC or V7!? Low stand!?
7 "Cocktail Traverse" V5 stand V5/6 low stand!? FA=CS
8 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #6!?
9 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #7!?
10 "Groundhog" V4/5 sit (V1 stand on jug rail) - step off from slab onto rock or top out!? FA=KA
11 "!?" sit start #10 then traverse up left into #6!?
12 "!?" VB/0 crack and/or face!?
13 !?

(small boulder below #3)
14 Stupid Face V0 sit mini face then top out straight up
15 Stupor Traverse V1 sit then traverse right and up along low lip

Spirits Wall is below the radio towers on the top of the south/east side of the small peak just to the west of the East Peak of Mt Tam just downhill from the small green building that is next to the white building across/southwest from the big green dome :)

Cocktail Traverse V5/6 FA! - YOUTUBE

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Veeder Boulders

Mt Veeder Boulders - Napa County
{secret so no directions - sorry :( send me an email if you'd like to come with us sometime tho :) .!?}

Sean Brady (V4 FA variation!)

Aron Quiter "The Crank" (V4) sit

Kevin Kinnison (#3 V2) sit

Sean Brady (#13 V1)

Sean Brady (#20 V0) warm up traverse FA!

Kevin Kinnison "Wicked" V3 stand!

"The Damned" V6 2nd Ascent!

Veeder Rock (above road - right to left)
{Main Rock}
1 5.8 2 bolt lead or top rope face (TR bolts on top) or 5.11 low start - 30ft  FA(TR)=Eric Holt/Eric Madison/FA(Lead)=Jonah Hall)
2 V0/1 stand start on hillside traverse far right to jug or up and right into huge mossy hole
3 V1/2 stand start on jug rail then do a few fun moves up to the mossy jug and drop off or V2 sit or V2 traverse right into #2 or V2/3 sit or (right/direct eliminate variation - no jug rail) FA=Eric Holt/Napa Crew? or V4 low sit into big undercling match then up right past crux sidepulls
4 V4 stand start on small undercling right hand and sidepull left and go up into #5 or V4/5 into #3 or V5 into #3 traverse
5 "The Crank" V4 sit or V1 stand - lock your feet on the cranks like your pedaling a bike or "Left Crank" V3/4 left sit with right hand on upper hold and left on small crimp or V4/5 into #3 or "The Crank Traverse" V5 do the sit start into #3 traverse FA=Chris Summit
6 "Tilted" V5/6 stand start on tiny tilted right hand crimp and tinier left hand pocket crimp and power up left into #7 or V!? traverse left into #8
7 "Faded" V2 stand start and go up right into same jug finish as #5 or V3 left stand start or "Vulcan Death Grip" V5 low stand start on left hand crimp and far out right hand pocket crimp on #6
8 "Lip Buster" V2 stand or V2/3 low stand or V!? low sit? far left side of wall (top out often dirty)
9 V7/8!? traverse from #8 right and up into #7 or V!?? into #2 for the complete traverse!!?? FA=Andrew Zaslove
10 !? top rope face left of 5.8!?

Creek Boulder (right to left)
11 V1 sit VB stand - short bulge
12 V1 sit V0 stand - left hand arete
13 V1 sit V0 stand - face left of arete
14 ?V2/3 - sloper start?
15 V3 - traverse from low left sit start or V2/3 stand FA=Eric Holt/Napa Crew.?

Upper Creek Boulder
16 V1 stand or V2 sit FA=Eric Holt/Eric Madison (or V6 low sit FA=Jonah Hall)

Wicked Cave (below road - right to left)
17 "Wicked" V6 sit or V3 stand or V4 low stand matched on underclings - center/right side of cave from sit in mini hueco or V6/7 low sit into step off top - or V7 low sit into mantle top out! FA=Chris Summit
18 "The Damned" V6 or V4 stand - left variation to Wicked with holds on left arete/face from sit in same mini hueco as Wicked or V7!? low sit!? FA=Andrew Zaslove
19 V7/8!?? far right side of cave direct up steep crimpy face with no left arete eliminate variation!?
20 "Sean's warm up traverse"? aka "The Vine Traverse" or "Vineman" V0 - traverse usually done right to left on backside of rock next to trail.
21 "Cinco De Mayo" V5 sit start low lip of roof left of The Damned then go up left and traverse all the way up left to easy step off or high dirty top out. V2/3 stand start. FA=Jonah Hall/Chris Summit
22 "The Stickler" (V6? sit same as Wicked/Damned) V2/3 stand start between The Damned and Cinco De Mayo.
23 V1/2 traverse (finish of Cinco De Mayo) stand start on rock traverse left same as Cinco De Mayo.
24 V0/1 sit start into the end of the V1/2 traverse.
25 !?

"The Stickler" V6 sit 3rd ascent!? YouTube

"Cinco De Mayo" V5 sit fa/1st+2nd ascents! YouTube

"The Damned" V6 sit 2nd ascent!? YouTube

"Wicked" V6 sit fa/1st ascent! YouTube

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Outdoor GEAR LAB

Outdoor GEAR LAB - The Consumer Reports of the outdoor industry!

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Climbing and Bouldering in Northern California

Photo: Summitorplummet

I've been a proud Northern California native since I was born and will be until I die. I started climbing and bouldering on the rocks around my home in Santa Rosa where I grew up and still live and climb today. In my 20 years of climbing I've found and developed many new areas and established many first ascents of sport climbs, traditional climbs and boulder problems all over Northern California. I have also written 6 climbing/bouldering guidebooks including my now out of print Wine County Rocks (self published) and Bay Area, Northern California and Tuolumne Bouldering as well as Bay Area Top Ropes by SuperTopo and with Tom Slater, I co-authored the bible to Nor Cal climbing, California Roadtrip, A Climbers Guide, Northern California by Maximus Press. The link below will take you to my SUPERTOPO Photo Gallery that has images from each of my SuperTopo guidebooks as well as a few other random images from all around Northern California - I hope you enjoy! :)

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Urban Climber - Classic Cali article

In this months (issue #48 May 2011) edition of Urban Climber Magazine, I contributed some info to a short article about California. Not to take anything away from that original and to the point article I would just like to add a bit more of my own info to make it the best article it could be. I want to say this is my first article published in a magazine and it's kind of cool! I have had photos published in Urban Climber before but never anything written. I am excited to do more! Thanks CVL!!

I want to make a few things clear that were either unclear or left out for some reason - basicly I'm going to point out and even rewrite parts of the article to make it better or at least more clear/detailed in my opinion - here it is:

here is how I would have wrote the first paragraph:
CALIFORNIA, the third largest state in the nation, is home to a huge collection of climbing areas. Yosemite, the mecca for western climbing is only part of what California has to offer. The east side of the Sierra, the Pacific Coast and even a few unique inland areas, some of which are even right near the highly populated Bay Area have many high quality rocks that are not to be missed. All year in Cali can be all good with old school classics, virgin new routes and in springtime crispy granite and massive waterfalls in the heat of summer, sandy beaches with bouldering on exotic rocks. Fall and Winter offer up Bishop bouldering and the multitude of classics in every style at Joshua Tree in the high desert of Southern California.

here are more of my additions;
The Sierras contain a huge collection of alpine routes and are also surrounded by many, excellent sport and bouldering areas like Jailhouse Rock and the awesome Columbia limestone boulders near Sonora. Other incredible sport and trad climbs are to be found at The Needles and Shuteye Ridge on the western slopes to the world class Buttermilk Boulders, the Volcanic Tablelands and Owens River Gorge on the east side. To the north are the unique Humboldt County area limestone crags and beach rocks; and to the west is the Bay Area's mix of sport climbing, bouldering and top roping like the famous Mickey's Beach as well as the historic test-pieces and outdoor gym-like variations at the Berkeley area crags and boulders. Last but not least is the high quality, Fontainbleau-esque sandstone playground, Castle Rock near the Silicon Valley of San Jose.

For the Bay Area I would have also mentioned the new 5.14a Beach Arete (without drilled pocket) first done by Kevin Jorgeson, then by Ethan Pringle and then by Charlie Barrett. I also would have mentioned Eco Terrorist (V10) at Castle Rock State Park, the old school classic Nat's Traverse (V8) at Mortar Rock, Berkeley and Pelican Arete (V0R) at the Sunset Boulders in Goat Rock Park.

For Yosemite I would have also mentioned Nutcracker (5.8/9) and Midnight Lightning (V8).

For Bishop I would have also mentioned Strength In Numbers (V5) at the Sads and Essential Peabody (V0R) at the Buttermilks.

For the Inside Scoop I would have mentioned;
Delicious foods from all over the world and great Micro Breweries. Mt Tam not Marin Headlands maybe for the best place
to mountain bike since it was the birthplace of mountain biking. I also would have mentioned that Hwy 101 takes you to the Wine Country not Hwy 1 - but Hwy 1 will take you to the scenic North Coast.

Mainly, I'm very stoked to have any part of any article published in any magazine - I just want to make it the best it could be here on my blog.


Sunday, May 8, 2011

Judge Dredd

First top rope ascent of Judge Dredd
- 1994/5ish!?

Judge Dredd (5.13b) gets its 7th? or 8th? confirmed ascent (that I've heard of anyway) in about 14 years since I did first lead ascent in 1997ish? - great job Ben Polanco!

Link to an Anthony Lapomardo PIC of Ben Polanco on Judge Dredd:!/photo.php?fbid=1898362091920&set=a.1065356747307.12114.1027660192&type=1&theater

and an Anthony Lapomardo VID of Ben Polanco on Judge Dredd at Dead Point

More radical new/old topo secret/priv prop Sonoma County Bouldering!

The Mecca

Mecca Cave


Gully Rock

Stoned Warrior V6 sit FA! Warrior Rock
Photo: Richard Newton

Travis Lombardo works the Rock Warrior Project
Warrior Rock

Eric "Wedge" Owen - Cricket Arete V3 sit
Cricket Rock

P F Traverse V6 FA! P F Rock
Photo: Sean Brady

Sean Brady - P F Traverse
P F Rock

Sean Brady - Rattlesnake Rock Traverse V3/4/5!?
Rattlesnake Rock

*A mix of possibly legit, quick hit, roadside attractions :) and top secret/priv prop rocks with NO ACCESS :( / :)


First Falls
1-20 = VB-V4/5!?

21-100 = VB-V11!?

Lower Creek Boulders?
101-125 = V!??

Upper Creek Boulders?
126-150 = V!??

Hillside Rock?
151-155 = 5.!?-V!?

Warrior Boulders (Warrior Rock)
156 Pull Out Crack V0
157 Bumper Arete V1 stand V3 sit
158 Pick Your Poison Wall (backside of Warrior Rock)
159 Poison Arete Vo stand V1 sit - right arete
160 Poison Traverse V3 sit start #159 traverse left into #162
161 Poison Face V0 stand V1 sit - center face
162 Wired V1/2 stand V2/3 low start
163 Wired Traverse V3 low start #162 - traverse up right into #159
164 Wired Arete? TR?
165 Stoned Warrior Traverse V4 low
166 Warrior Syndrome V5/6 stand or Stoned Warrior V6 sit
167 Stoned Warrior Traverse V6 traverse high (into and out of Warrior Syndrome)
168 Rock Warrior Project V7/8!? R? hard highball face!!
169 tall steep face??
170 crack/corner/arete??

Creekpile Rocks
171 Creekpile Traverse V1/2 left to right step off or into V3/4 = V4/5!?
172 Creekpile V3/4 sit
173 Creekpile Crack - TR? (big rock below other side of road)
174 ??
175 ??

Rattlesnake Rock
176 Snakehead V!?
177 !??
178 Rattlesnake Traverse V3/4 (harder now since hold broke!?)
179 Rattlesnake Arete V!? TR or highball left arete
180 Rattlesnake Face V!? TR or highball center face
181 Amagaba? V3 stand V4 sit ?? TR or highball right arete
182 Rattlesnake Crack V0 TR or highball crack right of arete
183 V1? face
184 Snake Pit V3 sit or V1 stand - left side of short face on far right
185 V0 stand or V1 sit - far right side of main wall

Gully Rock?
186 ??
187 ??

The Klump
188 The Klump V1 sit left arete, V3 sit center face, V3 sit right


P F Rock
189 P F Slab VB-V0 R
190 P F Crack V0 R
191 The P F Traverse (separate starts: Slab Traverse V0 (finish), Gold Bulge V1/2, Slab Crux V2/3, P F Traverse V4/5 midway start or V6!? start to finish.
192 ??

Cricket Rock
193 Cricket Highball!? left side of main face!?
194 Cricket Corner V1/2
195 Cricket Arete V2/3 (or Jiminy Cricket Dyno V3/4/5!?)
196 Cricket Crack V0
197 Cricket Mantle (aka Attack Mantle) V2
198 Cricket Traverse V3/4 into Cricket Mantle finish or V2/3 main face
199 Cricket Crack Traverse V3 into Cricket Crack finish
200 Cricket Face - TR?

Stoned Warrior V6 sit FA! - YOUTUBE

Mecca Cave (secret) - YOUTUBE

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Secrets Bouldering

Tafoni Sunset

Not So Secrets

Holly Anne VB FA!

Mike Whipple "Golden Hour" V2

"Sabertooth" V7 FA!

Travis Lombardo - V2 DWS!!


{{Secrets will stay a secret - Directions are word of mouth only}} I've never before published info about rock climbing/bouldering at Secrets for 3 reasons - 1 it is called Secrets, 2 there is plenty of other public rocks in the area, 3 Tafoni is fragile. Hopefully this blog post will not increase the popularity of the area too much. This blog doesn't get a lot of traffic other than mostly friends and locals who probably already know about it anyways.

Due to a recent increase in local popularity and the need to preserve the bouldering history before it is blown away in the sands of time I have created this ongoing collection of problems with names, ratings and first ascent info for some of the history of the mega classics at this incredible coastal sandstone playground - please contribute any knowledge you have of names/ratings/history by emailing me at;

I hope this helps you all at least know what is out there so if you're lucky enough to find yourself there you can at least sort out what has been done, about how hard it is and some of the original names from the probable first ascents. Remember most of the best secrets are found along the waters edge in the many small hidden coves and gully's. Have Fun exploring, climbing and chilling ~~ !! :)

**Update - 2014 Secrets info;
{{{UPDATE 2016 -- Giovanni "G" Traversi did the main roof project at the Fish Lips Boulders::
"High Tide Low Tide" V13!! ~~ the most difficult problem at Secrets by far and on the Sonoma Coast as well as one of the most difficult in the Bay Area and on the Pacific Coast of North America!!}}}

A Triceratops (VB-V5)
B The Wave Boulders (VB-V6)
C South Secrets (VB-V8) 
D North Secrets (VB-V13)

A The Wave Boulders

 A The Wave Boulders
B Semi Secrets
C Big Wave Boulder

The trail from Central Secrets to North Secrets.

> Secrets Boulder Problems from North to South -- The List;

North Secrets
Access directly from the North Fork of the Main Trail rather than from the South as seen in the pics.

A Hidden Gully
B Secret Valley 
C Hilltop Rock / Sabertooth Boulder
D The Point

A Hidden Gully
B Secret Valley

Hilltop Rock aka Sabertooth Boulder

Photo: Jason Kevin Moehlman

Jason and Ashley on "Cherry Bomb" V3 

1 Cherry Bomb V3 stand V4 sit FA=CS
2 Romancing the Stone V6 sit #1 trav right into #3 FA=CS
3 Golden Hour V2 stand or Bottle Rocket V4 sit FA=CS
4 Pachoong V7 sit #3 traverse left into #1 FA=CS
5 Feeding Frenzy V8 sit #7 traverse left into #1 FA=CS
6 Light Saber V7 sit #7 then up and around left into #3 FA=CS

Mike Whipple "Golden Hour" V2

7 Sabertooth V3 stand V5 mid V7 sit FA=CS
- or V9 low sit FA=KJ one of the most classic arete problems on the entire Pacific Coast.
8 ? V8 R / 5.13 TR highball cave! FA=KJ
9 Hole In The Sky V3/4 low stand or V0/1 stand start in mini hueco FA=CS
10 ? V5 arete or V1 crack? FA=CB
11 Orange Crack V0/1 FA=CS
12 Orange Cave V7 drop off, V9 into #11 with detached block, or V!!?? be very careful of the fragile precious magic orange moss/lichen :)

"Sabertooth" V5 stand FA - YOUTUBE

The Point / North Cove

A The Point (Top Rope / Sport Routes + #13)
B The Point Traverse V7 #14
C Secretes Wall 5.9 - 5.11+ and VB-V4
Horseshoe Crack 5.9 left crack TR or trad crack lead! FA=CS
Magic Indestructible Surf Palm??5.10TR?? FA=MH
!? FA=MH
!!?? FA=?
5.9!? bolt face at waters edge! FA=CS

Random boulder problems spread around The Point;
13 V3 R/X (or 5.11 TR) Short steep 25 foot highball/solo prow!! FA=MN/JM (TR) + KJ (Solo)
14 The Point Traverse V7 right to left or V7/8 left to right with spicy finish! FA=CS
15 !? V3/4/5R? sculpted pocket face. FA=RT/KJ??

Sunshine Slab and North Secrets as seen from near The Point.
A Sunshine Slab
B Fish Lips
C Big Wave Boulder
D The Wave Boulders

Sunshine Slab
16 Secrets Slab V0/1R FA=CS
17 Sunshine V1/2 FA=CS?
18 Sandpaper V4/5 FA=CS?
19 Sunshine Traverse V0/1 traverse FA=CS
20 ?

Secret Valley

Secret Valley

21 V1 high face/slab? FA=JM?

22 V0/1? left face FA=JM?
23 V0/1? right face FA=JM?

24 V0/1 left arete FA=JM?
25 V1/2/3? sit start bulge face FA=JM?
26 V3/4 low stand direct arete FA=JM? or low sit pockets V5/6 FA=DW?
27 V6/7??
28 V0/1/2/3? lip traverse on backside FA=JM/CS?

*This photo shows where Fish Lips is compared to the other areas looking north from The Big Wave Boulder. Hike and scramble downhill from Secret Valley area directly to The Fish Lips Boulders. Just north of Fish Lips is the Spider Crab Boulder.
A Hidden Gully
B Fish Lips
C The Point
D Secret Valley
E Summit Boulder

Fish Lips Boulders

Fish Lips Boulder
(right to left)
29 Fish Lips V2/3 sit right top out or V3/4 left top out FA=CS
30 Thumb Thing V6/7? sit FA=CS
31 Slap Stick V8/9? sit #29 into #32 FA=CS
32 Fish Stick V5/6? stand FA=KA?
33 Slap Fight V7/8? sit FA=CS

"Thumb Thing" V6/7FA YouTube

(right to left)
*33 Slap Fight top out.
34 V0/1 slab (same top out as #33) FA=CS
35 V0 center slab FA=CS or V1? traverse right to #34 FA=LB
36 V? left arete ?

(right to left)
37 Fishhead Traverse V3/4? into #29 left top out. FA=CS
38 Fish Belly Right V2 sit right roof FA=CS/DW?
39 Fish Belly Left V2 FA=CS?
40 Fish Butt V1 sit roof top out direct! FA=CS

High Tide Low Tide V13 left start on rail under roof then crank up right!! or V12 up!? FA=GT
*left start on rail under horizontal roof bust out direct!!??
*same left start traverse far up right out of cave into V4/5 exit!?

The Waterpark
The Waterpark VB R/X FA=CS?
Waterworld VB/0 R/X FA=CS?
Waterworld Traverse V0/1 FA=CS?

Spider Crab Boulders

A Spider Crab Boulder
(In a pit below the arrow and letter A in photo - small boulder over pit in foreground is #44)

Spider Crab Boulder
41 Charlie Tuna V6 FA=CB
42 Nautilust V5 FA=CS

43 Spider Crab V5 sit start short steep prow on backside (often wet) FA=CS

44 ? V2/3 arete/prow! FA=RE

Crabby Boulder

45 VB/0's

Hidden Gully

Rib Cage Boulder
(At the top of the gully)
46 Rib Cage V2/3? left face start on orange ribs FA=CS
47 Cage Fight V4/5? short sloper right bulge/face FA=CS/RE?

Hidden Boulder
48 V0/1 left face/arete sit FA=CS
49 V1/2 left face? FA=CS?
50 Crouching Climber Hidden Pocket V3/4? start cave climb up and out left FA=CS
51 Hidden Monkey V2/3? backside cave. FA=CS
52 Hidden Traverse V5/6? left to right traverse down and out backside cave! FA=CS
53 Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon V4/5? right to left traverse start #50! FA=CS

54 VB slab solo
55 VB/0 slab/face solo

The Wave Boulders
(The impressive main cluster of big, uniquely featured blocks at waters edge - low tide)

Mini Prow
56 Mini Prow V0/1 original right or V2/3 direct low left arete/prow! FA=DW/AW?

The Wave Boulder
(right to left)
57 The Wave Arete V1 juggy right arete. FA=CS?
58 The Wave V3R classic high right face! FA=RE
59 The Wave Traverse V4 long and pumpy classic!
Left to right into right arete or V5 into #56 for full value.
60 V1/2/3 left arete and right center face variations! FA=CS/RE/RT/SB??

Fish Brain Boulder
(left to right)
61 Stone Shroom VB/0 FA=CS/RE?
62 Fish Brain V2/3 FA=CS
63 Brain Wave V3/4 FA=CS
64 Waverider Traverse V4/5/6 to far right or into #64! FA=CS

65 Tidal Wave V0 R/X high slab face! FA=CS
- or V1 R/X!? direct slab face! FA=DH/DW?

Big Wave Boulders

Big Wave Boulder
(The lone boulder on the point just north of the main Wave Boulders - low tide)
66 Big Wave Arete V1 right arete - V3 sit FA = RE?
67 Big Wave Dave V2 stand V3 sit V4 left sit - center hueco face FA=RE
68 Big Wave Traverse V5 left to right - or V6 sit #66 end on #69 FA=CS
69 Kung Fu Spot V4 direct left face - or V1/2 easier far left face FA=CS

Death in Paradise
70 Death in Paradise V3 R steep wet cave with bad landing! (see pic) FA=CB
 - or Paradise in Death V3 R/W same wet cave start into backside over water! FA=CS

"Paradise in Death" V3R/W FA and "Big Wave Traverse Direct" V6 FA - YOUTUBE

Forgotten Cove(s)?
71 ?
72 ?
73 ?
74 ?


Dean Fleming "Triceratops" V4
Photo: Valentine Cullen

75 Triceratops V4 sit start double aretes with feet on huge flake ledge and compress and heel hook out to apex and pull over - mega classic! FA=RT
76 VB/0 right face ?
77 V0/1 high left face ?
78 V1/2 R face/arete ?

Dean Fleming "Triceratops" V4

Black Hole and Gold Crack

Black Hole
(Amazingly featured black-brown sandstone)
79 Dolphin Quest V1/2 sit low jugs then up right FA=CS
80 Black Hole V2/3 sit low jugs then up center squeeze FA=CS
81 Flipper V4/5? sit then up left face FA=RE
83 Gold Crack V0/1? R gold crack/face on hill FA=RT

Fishing Rock / DWS Rock
(At low tide walk across wet rocks to a 4th class scramble up/down climb)
84 DWS #5.11//V2/3!?? FA=RT??
85 DWS#1 V0 down/up in/out of DWS Cave FA=MN
86 DWS Cave V1/2! FA=MN
87 DWS Cave Direct V2/3! FA=MN

Lost Cove(s)?

The Potato

The Potato
(left to right)
94 Baked Potato Traverse V2/3 stand start or V3/4 sit start lip traverse FA=CS
95 Baked Potato V1 sit start jugs up into end of lip traverse or V0 stand FA=CS
96 Tater Tot V4 low stand right slopers or sit V5? FA=CS?
97 Mashed Potatoes V4/5? stand start or V5/6? low start - pocket sloper mini roof on backside of traverse face - FA=CS
98 ?

Sandy Corridor?


Sean Brady warming up on the crack (top pic)
and on "Tweaker Feature" V8 FA!

Jason Kevin Moehlman on "Barnacle Bill" V6/7!

Barnacle Boulder
99 V0 stand V1/2 sit short right face jugs over rocks FA=RE/CS?
100 Barnacle Crack V3/4? classic crack FA=RE
101 Barnacle Bill V6/7? direct face left of crack into sloper match and crack top out FA=TL
102 Tweaker Feature V8 traverse from right to left past triple pocket match FA=SB
103 V0/1 left face seams - or V6/7? 1-move wonder low right pocket start FA=SB

104 VB/0 opposite side slab FA=RE?
105 V0/1 opposite side slab direct FA=RE?

South Secrets / North Playground

Blockhead Boulder

106 Blockhead Direct V0/1 right face FA=??
107 Blockhead V2/3 FA=TL
108 Blockhead Traverse V2/3 FA=CS or V3/4? into #107! FA=TL?
109 VB/0 left face FA=CS

Sands of Time Boulder


 "Sands of Time"
 Photo: Valentine Cullen


Sands of Time (next to Blockhead)
(left to right)
110 Sandy Fun Time V0 left side FA=CS
111 Sands of Time V8 sit left up into #112!? FA=GT
112 Sands of Time Direct V7/8? stand start (no right hand arete feature?) FA=GT? or V5/6? stand start center face (using right hand arete feature?) FA=CS?
113 Sands of Time Traverse V6/7? same start then traverse right FA=CS
114 V3/4? corner crack seam thing? FA=CS?
115 VB up/down-climb approach.

**The next are south is The Playground with a fun mix of top rope crack and face as well as a few short sport climbs and sporadic yet classic boulder problems.


Other nearby secrets;
(more info coming soon)

Stony Rocks / The Arch / The Quarry / The Call Box / The Pull Out

The Arch
?? FA = TL?
?? FA = RE?
"The Arch" V4 - FA = RE
"Fear of the Inevitable"  V7 highball! - FA = Giovanni Traversi 2013?

Richie Esquibel "The Arch" V4 FA The Arch - YOUTUBE

The Quarry
10-12 great fun low to medium high moderate boulder problems (VB-V7) - FA = RE/CS

V5 2nd ascent flash! The Quarry - YOUTUBE

Stony Rocks
(VB-V7 / 5.7-5.13)
?? TR project left of Stony!?
"Stony White Boots Johnson" 5.13a top rope or V7R/X (R if you have enough pads) boulder/solo!! - FA top rope = Marcos Nunez // FA boulder/solo = Kevin Jorgeson
"Stony Traverse" V7 sit Stony White Boots then traverse right to arete - FA = CS (V8 project if done around arete into complete roof traverse!?)
"Sandy Arete" V1R high sandy arete right of Stony White Boots - FA = CS
V3/4 roof - FA = MN
V4/5 roof traverse - FA = MN
V3/4 sit - FA = MN
V1R high face left of Stony Rock - FA = MN
"Stony Arete" V1R mega classic high arete left of face and over water at high tide! - FA = MN
V3 classic steep face over rocky water hole - FA = MN
V0 ?
V1 ?
V2 ?
V3 ?
V4 ?

Giovanni Traversi does 2nd boulder ascent of "Stony White Boots Johnson" V7 R/X!

Gully Boulder
The Gully V3/4 ? - FA = RE
Hillbilly V4/5 ? - FA = RE
Freakshow V5/6 ? - FA = CS
? project!?

Gerstle Cove
5-10 top rope or medium to highball boulder problems (V1-V5 / 5.10-5.12) - FA = JM/KJ/RE

Still Water Cove
10-20 top rope and an assortment of boulder problems (VB-V6 / 5.9-5.11) - FA = MN/CS

Timber Cove
!? (V?-5.?) - FA = RE/?

Info for the other nearby bouldering areas are in the guidebooks Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering and the sport and traditional climbing nearby is in Bay Area Top Ropes ~ all by SUPERTOPO!

Fisk Mill Cove
(sport/trad routes 5.6-5.13 + bouldering VB-V!? FA=JM/MN/CS/RT/RE)

Shroomland / Waterfall Boulders / Johnny Cash
(bouldering VB-V7+ FA=CS/RP/RE/CB/RT)

The Playground
(sport/trad routes 5.6-5.11 + bouldering VB-V8+ FA=CS/RT/RE)