Saturday, February 27, 2016

My Best First Ascents - Bouldering (top 50 of ~1000+)

*=ok **=good ***=very good ****=great/area classic! *****=best/world classic!!

Slither V7***** roof to high V5 face top out -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Sabertooth V7***** overhanging arete -- sandstone - Secrets
Hellspawn V7***** compression sit into "Hell Awaits" V4**** -- basalt - Putah Creek
Dragon Moon V8***** overhanging face -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Summit Fever V8***** overhanging pocket face start to original classic -- volcanic - Clark Canyon
Sasquatch V4***** overhanging wave/scoop -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Vise Grip V4***** vertical pinch face -- sandstone - Salt Point
Chris' Ramp V8**** overhanging diagonal rail traverse -- granite - Pump Rock
Bump and Grind V9**** overhanging bulge face (unrepeated!?) -- volcanic - Clark Canyon
Stripe V6**** overhanging diagonal offset seam -- schist - {Topo Secret}
Super Abalone V8**** overhanging toe and heel hook sloper lip traverse -- schist - Super Slab
Bridge Traverse V4**** 75ft cave traverse -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Trinity Traverse V3**** 75ft diagonal uphill face traverse -- limestone - Trinity Aretes
Sendocino V3**** sit into slab classic -- greenstone - Mendo
Sendocino Arete V4**** same sit high right arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Sendocino Direct V6**** same sit high direct arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Christal Method V4**** classic high face/arete -- greenstone - Mendo
Electric Eel V4**** overhang slot pocket face -- greenstone - Mendo
Braveheart V1R**** (or 5.10** lead) highball face -- greenstone - Mendo
Can of Whoop Ass V5**** sit to classic "Bomb Ass Dookie" V4**** -- greenstone - Mendo
Brass Monkey V3**** semi high arete -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
Mother Nature V3R**** highball arete -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
Between a Rock and a Hard Place V6**** overhanging arete -- sandstone - Salt Point
Slapfight V8**** mega sloper left arete -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Fish Lips V3**** meal classic center overhang -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
High Times V0R/X**** highball/solo face -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
The Matrix V5**** mega classic steep center line -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Vortex V3R/DWS**** diagonal traverse rail over Russian River! -- chert? - Mendo
Synergy V5**** compression sit to classic V3 high face -- schist - Mendo
The Wave Traverse V4**** left to right/uphill low traverse -- sandstone - Secrets
Aqua Velva V4**** classic steep cave plumb line -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Swinger V6**** classic steep cave direct line -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Talon V6**** overhanging face -- volcanic - Mt Lassen
Bloody Talon V7*** overhanging face direct -- volcanic - Mt Lassen
Supercat V7*** overhanging face -- limestone - Natural Bridge
Nutcracker V2*** overhanging crack -- basalt - Vacaville (aka Nut Tree)
The Specialist V5*** overhang -- schist - Goat Rock
Trailblazer Arete V3*** trailside arete -- volcanic - Sugarloaf Ridge
Resolution Arete V3*** highball arete -- volcanic - Sugarloaf Ridge
Fat Man Traverse V4*** face traverse -- granite - Tahoe
Killer Green Traverse V8*** cave traverse -- volcanic - {Topo Secret}
Living La Vida Smoka V9*** link up traverse -- sandstone - Fort Ross
The Stoner Traverse V6*** left to right/uphill steep pocket traverse -- sandstone - Stoner Cave
Cherry Bomb V4*** sit into fun V3 stand start -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Fuck Traverse V6*** traverse into the highball classic V4R! -- schist - Mendo
Slapstick V9*** mega sloper left arete link into V5 top out -- sandstone - Secrets Salt Point
Renegades of Funk V9** link up traverse -- schist - Super Slab
Great White Traverse V8** sit diagonal crack traverse to V0 crack -- greenstone - Mickeys Beach
Hammerhead Traverse V7** jug rail to direct crux into V0 crack -- greenstone - Mickeys Beach
Orange Cave V9* - V7*** cave to detached rock to V0* crack link up -- sandstone - Secrets


My First Ascents - Roped (top 55 of ~100+ sport, trad, tr)

Judge Dredd 5.13b - sport-lead - Sea Crag
Troubled Water 5.12d/.13a - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Dry Line 5.12d - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Toll Taker 5.12c - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
The Bird Is The Werd 5.12c - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Pinch Hitter 5.12b/c - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Joint Effort 5.12b - sport-lead - Untamed Rocks
Don't Call Me Squaw 5.12b - sport-lead - Frog Woman Rock (aka Squaw Rock)
Witch Doctor 5.12b - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Dark Christal 5.12b - tr - Dos Rios
Borg 5.12a/b - solo+lead - {Topo Secret}
Firewater 5.12a - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Hard To Swallow 5.12a - sport-lead - Dos Rios
Resurrection 5.12a - sport-lead - Frog Woman Rock (aka Squaw Rock)
On A Wing And A Prayer 5.12a - sport-lead - Untamed Rocks
Fuck You Sit Start 5.12a/V4 - tr/boulder - {Topo Secret}
Sucka Fish 5.12a - sport-lead - Sea Crag
Liquid Fire 5.12a - sport-lead - Dos Rios
? 5.11/12 - sport-lead - {Topo Secret}
Burning Spear 5.11d - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Snakecharmer 5.11 - trad-lead - Dos Rios
Synchronicity 5.11 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
P.E. 5.11 - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Off The Wall 5.11 - sport-lead - Schoolhouse (Mt St Helena area)
Bearclaw 5.11 - sport-lead - The Bear/Mt St Helena
Sandy Squirrel 5.11 - sport-lead - Secrets
Sandy Rails 5.11 - tr - The Playground/Salt Point
The Nautilus 5.11 - sport-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Bar Fight 5.10/11 - sport-lead - The Bar
Bar Fly 5.10/11 - sport-lead - The Bar
The Cup Holder (aka The Beer Holder) 5.10/11 - tr - Dos Rios
Calamari 5.10/11 - sport-lead - Twin Coves
Sunrise 5.10/11 - tr - Sunrise Rocks/Sugarloaf
Porn Star 5.10/11 - sport-lead - Shredding
Black Hole Sun 5.10 - sport-lead - The Bear/Mt St Helena
Wake And Bake 5.10 - sport-lead - Limestone Natural Bridge
Blue Heron 5.10 - sport-lead - Twin Coves
Sea Snake 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Lost At Sea 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Free Willy 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Conch Crack 5.10 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Rock Candy 5.10 - sport-lead - Shredding
Skaliwag 5.10 - sport-lead - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point
Alien 5.10 - sport-lead - {Topo Secret}
Bam Bam 5.9/10 - tr - Rhinecastle
Ewok 5.9/10 - sport-lead - {Topo Secret}
Jack of all Trades 5.9 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Lichen It 5.9 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
Dreamland 5.9 - trad-lead - {Topo Secret}
Kola 5.9 - sport-lead - Far Side/Mt St Helena
Horseshoe Crack 5.9 - trad-lead - Secrets
Horseshoe Point 5.9 - sport-lead - Secrets
Playtime 5.9 - sport-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
Log Jam 5.8/9 - trad-lead - The Playground/Salt Point
The Black Pearl 5.8 - tr - Fisk Mill Cove/Salt Point

~50 more 3rd/4th class-5.6/7ish FA.

+over 1000 bouldering first ascents.


Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS 2015/16

Sonoma Coast Crags TITANIUM REBOLT {Sea Crag and Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Super THANKS to Jim Thornburg et al.. !! :)

Sugarloaf Ridge Park ~75 new problems/200+ total! {Mayacama Mountains - Sonoma County}
About 50 new boulder problems found, cleaned and climbed in summer/fall/winter of 2015/16 in the lush Sonoma Creek Canyon off of Canyon Trail and out 25 new boulder problems at the awesome new/old Sunrise Rocks as well as a few more at a few other cool spots around the beautiful park. My friends and I established about 75 new boulder problems total from VB to V7/8 and found a lot of harder projects for the future.
FA's: DW, CS, GR, AC, GZ, OG, RT, LB, A?

"Grand Jury" 5.14a {Sea Crag - Sonoma Coast}
The hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area and CA!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth. 

"El Sabroso" 5.13c {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Tied with it's neighbor "Jury Duty" and topo-secret "Yoda Direct" for second hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth. 

"Stigmata" V13 (was V11 - hold broke ~2015) {topo-secret}
Tied with G's 2 other Sonoma County V13's (the neighboring "Adrift" and the Sonoma Coasts hardest problem/test-piece "High Tide Low Tide") for hardest boulder problem(s) in Sonoma County and some of the hardest in the Bay Area! 
FA - original V11: Kevin Jorgeson / FA - new V13: Giovanni "G" Traversi

"High Tide Low Tide" V13 {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Roof to arete/prow bulge face!
FA: Giovanni "G" Traversi

"Biddles Platinum" V4 stand V5 sit and "Biddles Steel" V5 stand and "Blue Steel" V7 sit {Biddles - Castle Rock}
The classic test-pieces on the main face of Biddles Tower at the new-ish Biddles area south of CRSP. 
Biddles Platinum V4 stand FA: Clay Breitweiser and V5 sit FA: Chris Summit / Biddles Steel V5 stand FA - Clay Breitweiser and Blue Steel V7 sit FA: Mike Donovan

"Bushwhacker Roof" V8 and "Bushwhacker Roof Direct" V9 {Indian Joe Caves - Sunol}
Mike D sparks new bouldering stoke at an old Bay Area top rope zone!
FA's: Mike Donovan 

"Aloha Patrol" 5.11 (5.11b start) - zone 3 solo! {Table Rock - Napa County}
FSA (First Solo Ascent): Damon "Nomad" Monjure

The Cascade Boulders {Berkeley - East Bay}
Newly found and established fun little bouldering spot in the rocky and scenic Berkeley hills.
FA's: Garrett "G-Raw" Rawlins

*Random Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS prior to ~2015:

Kimball Canyon, Black Tower, Wappo, Table etc.. {Mt St Helena - Napa County}
Many new climbs at many amazing new and "new-ish" areas with many old/new routes put up all over the Mt St Helena/Table Rock/Palisades area with more potential still up there! ~5.6-5.12+!? 
FA's: Jerry Dodrill, Darren Wiemeyer, Sourigno Outsama, Tim Terry, Dave Stallard, Jim Thornburg, Aaron Rough, ?? etc..

Biddles Boulders + many more new spots! {Skyline - Castle Rock}
The awesome new Biddles area and many other new sandstone bouldering areas similar to Castle Rock discovered and many new classics established in recent years by visionary first ascent pioneer Clay Breitweiser and a few other inspired locals in the Castle Rock/Skyline zone!
FA's: Clay Breitweiser, Mike Donovan, Joe Huras, Gustav Zacharias, Daniel Miller, Chris Zenardi, Kalen Glenn, CS, ??

The Bar and "Bat Karma" 5.13a {Mammoth Bar/Auburn Limestone Quarry - Auburn}
New and old lead and TR climbs brought back to life and some new first ascents and more potential at The Bar on the Middle Fork of the American River at Mammoth Bar Park ~5.8-5.12!? At the nearby Auburn Limestone Quarry one of the best lines finally got established, "Bat Karma" 5.13a FA Jim Thornburg is the single most newsworthy hard new first ascent route at The Limestone Quarry.
FA - Quarry: Jim Thornburg / FA - The Bar: CS + ??

KcKee Park Boulders and Three Rocks {Potter Valley - Mendocino County}
Old bouldering area brought back to life with many new classic problems and potential for more! Also some DWS / Deep Water Solo mixed with "shallow water solo" - R rated highballs!
FA's: CS, RT, JA, AC, SR

"Ghost Dance" V11r and Twin Peaks DWS! {Untamed Rocks - Mendocino County}
Highball arete/prow right off the hwy/US101! 
FA - V11r: Giovanni "G" Traversi / FA - DWS: Steven Wheeler (V0/1-V4/5.11+!?) + CS (VB/V0)

"Swallow Crack" 5.10 + new start to Green/Black Slab {Swallow Rock - Mendocino County}
First ascent - Mendo mega classic TR splitter dihedral/corner crack or gear swallowing trad lead!
FA's + 2nd ascents/recleaning/rebirthing: CS, Matt Suddock, John Gruey, Covelo Crew etc..!?

The Sweet Boulder {topo-secret}
Since the neighboring and amazing Sweet Boulders have been closed :( due to a house being built next to them this fun overlooked old boulder was brought to life by awesome inspired local first ascentionist pioneer Travis Lombardo (author of the classic "Cave Spider" on Dutch Bill Boulder)!
FA's: Travis Lombardo, CS, G, ??

"Pipedream Sit" ~V7/8/9ish!? {topo-secret / near Sugarloaf Ridge}
Long standing low sit local dream project over a drainage pipe alongside a dirt road with a view!
FA: Gustav Zacharias

The Chatterbox and Big Pyramid Boulder and others! {Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma County}
Newly discovered boulders at Sugarloaf Ridge bring new life back to the park! The new line "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 up the center dihedral of the Big Pyramid is an instant classic!
FA's: Darren "Splitclimber" Wiemeyer

Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville {Lake, Napa, Yolo Counties}
A lot of new and some old boulder problems have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville areas.
FA's: CS, SB, ??

The Preserve {topo-secret}
A lot of new schist boulders with many classic new highball boulder problems have been found deep in the private nature preserves in West Sonoma Counties lush redwood forests.
FA's: Zach Anaya, Jason Kevin Moehlman, Ashley Freeman, CS, TL, GT, ??

South Bay Area / Big Sur Bouldering! {Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur}
A lot of new and some old bouldering areas have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur areas.
FA's: Sharma, AC, ??

~A lot more went down than this recently in the Bay Area climbing scene but it was either at very secret/private areas or was not quite as cool, I forgot or I don't care :) I'm not getting paid for this so you get what you get - enjoy!