Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Alcove


The Alcove - right



The Alcove - left



The Alcove
bouldering/buildering = bou-il-dering!?
pull some concrete!!


The Alcove - right
1 VB/0
2 Mini Dyno V0
3 Dual Cracks V0/1
4 Gastoned V2 stand V2/3 sit?
5 Right Corner V0/1 right corner crack/face
6 March Means Rain V1/2 face left of corner (corner crack is off).
7 Alcove Crack V0 stand V0/1 sit - instant classic!
8 Alcove Face V1 stand V1/2 sit - direct face left of classic crack (crack is off).


The Alcove - left
9 Corny Corner V1/2 left corner crack/face
10 Zendetta V4/5 stand V5 sit - direct right V start to Z crack!
11 Zen Crack V2 stand V2/3 sit - instant classic Z crack!
12 Inflatable Sheep V3/4 stand V4 sit? left variation to z crack
13 White Rail V0/1 stand V1 sit
14 The Funnel V0 stand or V1 start #13 - short diagonal cracks
15 The Alcove Traverse V4/5 start on right side and traverse left into #14 to finish - or left to right into #1 or #2 to finish. The concrete in the two corners is on for feet making nice and needed no hands rests - no concrete = V5


Zen Crack V2/3 sit + Zendetta V4/5 stand - YOUTUBE

Alcove Traverse V4/5 - YOUTUBE

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

TOP 25 BEST TOP SECRET/PRIV PROP NORTH BAY BOULDER PROBLEMS and ROCK CLIMBS

{{If you want to go to one of these "secret/private" areas just ask me and I will either take you or hook you up with someone else that can take you or help inform you of the current state of access}}


*TOP 25 BEST TOP SECRET/PRIV PROP NORTH BAY BOULDER PROBLEMS
( all grade levels - no particular order, in my humble or not so humble opinion ;)

Slither V7 CS Caz
Stigmata V11 (aka Schist Project) KJ Caz
Adrift V13 GT Caz
Close Encounters V5 RE Caz
Low End Theory V10 CB Caz
Dragon Moon V8 sit + Moonman V4 stand CS Caz
Spider Man V6 sit CS Caz
Kick Me When Im Down V10 traverse MN Caz
Scary V6 sit CS Caz
Camel Toe V5 stand RE V8 sit CB Caz
Hijacked V7 sit RE + Hold Up V4 stand CS Caz
Sabertooth V7 sit V4 stand CS V9 low sit KJ Secrets
Starfish Traverse V4 RE + CS Secrets
Sweet Crack V0R CS Sweets
KGB V4 stand V5 sit CS Green Cave
Killer Green Traverse V4 (warm up) + V5-V8 CS Green Cave
Mammoth Cave V4 (warm up) KA Mammoth Cave
The Savage V8 KA Mammoth Cave
Tribal Rights V9 KA Mammoth Cave
The Oracle V8 KA Mammoth Cave
Oracle Savage V8 CB Mammoth Cave
Savage Oracle V8 CS Mammoth Cave
The Sorcerer V6 CS Mammoth Cave
Sonoma Creek Traverse V8 KA Sonoma
Upper Sonoma Creek Traverse V4 KA Sonoma


*TOP 12 BEST TOP SECRET/PRIV PROP NORTH BAY ROCK CLIMBS
(all grade levels - no particular order)

Yoda 5.12c/d RE or 5.13b/c RT Caz
? 5.9 crack CS Caz
? 5.9 sport CS Caz
? 5.10 sport RE+CS Caz
Busted 5.9/10? 2 pitch (incomplete) CS+RE Caz !?
Dry Line 5.12d TR-CB Lead-CS Schoolhouse
School of Rock 5.12c CS Schoolhouse
Solar Catastrophe 5.12b RT Schoolhouse
Straight Jacket 5.10 TR CS Insane Asylum
Sanctified 5.9 TR CS Sanctuary
Sanctified - right face!? Sanctuary
Sanctified - right face into right overhang!!?? Sanctuary

Monday, March 14, 2011

The Cobblestone



The Cobblestone

1 The Cobblestone VB/0 (easy way up/down).

2 Cobblestone Direct aka Cobblestone Classic V1/2 stand or V2/3 sit start.

3 Cobblestone Mantle V1/2 stand start.

4 Cobblestone Mantle - Sit V2/3 sit start.

5 Cobblestone Mantle - Low Sit V3 low right sit start matched on layback.

6 Cobblestone Mantle - Direct V2 (or V3 sit or V3/4 low sit).

7 Cobble Wobble Traverse V7 sit start (sit #2 then traverse right into #8).

8 Cobble Wobble V5 stand start sloper prow (or Layback Action V6 sit?).

9 Cobblestone Slab V0 stand V1 sit start.

10 Cobblestone Traverse V6 from #9 left into #3 or V6/7 into #1 or V7 do a complete 360!? {usually done clockwise/from right to left}

11 start #1 traverse right into #7 (V7!?)

12 start #1 traverse far right into #9 direct (V7/8!?)




Finishing the Cobble Wobble Traverse V7 fa!?
Photo: Wedge


Cobblestone Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Adobe Canyon Boulder




1 The Ramp V2 low left start
2 Launch Ramp V4 sit start
3 Pipedream V1 stand V5/6 low stand V!? sit
4 low sit project!?
5 Pipedream Traverse V4 stand - V6? low stand?
6 Rock Snake V2/3 stand or Roccupy V5/6 low stand
7 Rock Snake Direct V0
8 ACB Traverse V5/6
9 V0R chossy bulge
10 "?" V0 far right face

Adobe Canyon Boulder - YOUTUBE