Saturday, August 27, 2011

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Veeder Boulders

Mt Veeder Boulders - Napa County
{secret so no directions - sorry :( send me an email if you'd like to come with us sometime tho :) .!?}

Sean Brady (V4 FA variation!)

Aron Quiter "The Crank" (V4) sit

Kevin Kinnison (#3 V2) sit

Sean Brady (#13 V1)

Sean Brady (#20 V0) warm up traverse FA!

Kevin Kinnison "Wicked" V3 stand!

"The Damned" V6 2nd Ascent!

Veeder Rock (above road - right to left)
{Main Rock}
1 5.8 2 bolt lead or top rope face (TR bolts on top) or 5.11 low start - 30ft  FA(TR)=Eric Holt/Eric Madison/FA(Lead)=Jonah Hall)
2 V0/1 stand start on hillside traverse far right to jug or up and right into huge mossy hole
3 V1/2 stand start on jug rail then do a few fun moves up to the mossy jug and drop off or V2 sit or V2 traverse right into #2 or V2/3 sit or (right/direct eliminate variation - no jug rail) FA=Eric Holt/Napa Crew? or V4 low sit into big undercling match then up right past crux sidepulls
4 V4 stand start on small undercling right hand and sidepull left and go up into #5 or V4/5 into #3 or V5 into #3 traverse
5 "The Crank" V4 sit or V1 stand - lock your feet on the cranks like your pedaling a bike or "Left Crank" V3/4 left sit with right hand on upper hold and left on small crimp or V4/5 into #3 or "The Crank Traverse" V5 do the sit start into #3 traverse FA=Chris Summit
6 "Tilted" V5/6 stand start on tiny tilted right hand crimp and tinier left hand pocket crimp and power up left into #7 or V!? traverse left into #8
7 "Faded" V2 stand start and go up right into same jug finish as #5 or V3 left stand start or "Vulcan Death Grip" V5 low stand start on left hand crimp and far out right hand pocket crimp on #6
8 "Lip Buster" V2 stand or V2/3 low stand or V!? low sit? far left side of wall (top out often dirty)
9 V7/8!? traverse from #8 right and up into #7 or V!?? into #2 for the complete traverse!!?? FA=Andrew Zaslove
10 !? top rope face left of 5.8!?

Creek Boulder (right to left)
11 V1 sit VB stand - short bulge
12 V1 sit V0 stand - left hand arete
13 V1 sit V0 stand - face left of arete
14 ?V2/3 - sloper start?
15 V3 - traverse from low left sit start or V2/3 stand FA=Eric Holt/Napa Crew.?

Upper Creek Boulder
16 V1 stand or V2 sit FA=Eric Holt/Eric Madison (or V6 low sit FA=Jonah Hall)

Wicked Cave (below road - right to left)
17 "Wicked" V6 sit or V3 stand or V4 low stand matched on underclings - center/right side of cave from sit in mini hueco or V6/7 low sit into step off top - or V7 low sit into mantle top out! FA=Chris Summit
18 "The Damned" V6 or V4 stand - left variation to Wicked with holds on left arete/face from sit in same mini hueco as Wicked or V7!? low sit!? FA=Andrew Zaslove
19 V7/8!?? far right side of cave direct up steep crimpy face with no left arete eliminate variation!?
20 "Sean's warm up traverse"? aka "The Vine Traverse" or "Vineman" V0 - traverse usually done right to left on backside of rock next to trail.
21 "Cinco De Mayo" V5 sit start low lip of roof left of The Damned then go up left and traverse all the way up left to easy step off or high dirty top out. V2/3 stand start. FA=Jonah Hall/Chris Summit
22 "The Stickler" (V6? sit same as Wicked/Damned) V2/3 stand start between The Damned and Cinco De Mayo.
23 V1/2 traverse (finish of Cinco De Mayo) stand start on rock traverse left same as Cinco De Mayo.
24 V0/1 sit start into the end of the V1/2 traverse.
25 !?

"The Stickler" V6 sit 3rd ascent!? YouTube

"Cinco De Mayo" V5 sit fa/1st+2nd ascents! YouTube

"The Damned" V6 sit 2nd ascent!? YouTube

"Wicked" V6 sit fa/1st ascent! YouTube