Wednesday, August 22, 2012
"Crumble Mumble" FA
Some of the newest and possibly some of the last great roadside problems to be done on Tam, as well as some of the hardest problems so far are Reid Augustino’s “Bonum Vitae” (V7) and his friend Brett Shingu’s “Wicked” (V9). Both were just done in 2012 in the creek/ravine below the Bootjack Boulders. They are right off Panorama below one of the hairpins about a half mile before (east of) the Bootjack Picnic Area when coming up from US101.
These problems are on less than perfect rock that has some loose and hollow holds. The creek level also rises up under most of the boulder from fall through spring depending on yearly water levels. The Bootjack Boulders are not affected by the creek - they are found just up the hill from The Ravine, across the rd, above the hairpin turn, left (west) of the creek. Bootjack has the classics "Intuition" (V4 stand V5 sit) and it's right variation "Instinct" as well as the ass kicking good fun "Bootjack Arete" (V2 stand V7 low sit) on the Bootjack Boulder. On the adjacent Cheech and Choss Boulder there's the slightly chossy but fun "Dave's Not Here" (V2 stand V6 sit) and the long new "Cheech and Choss Traverse" (V4) as well as a few other good moderates.
Hiking uphill to the right of Bootjack and left of the creek you will find a new problem called "Hobo Wreckless" (V6 sit low traverse lip) and an older V4 up problem both on the boulder next to the boulder with a hobo shelter built against. This new/old area is now being called The Upper Ravine and it has potential for a few more new low-balls. It will be small but fun when complete as well as a nice addition to the rest of The Ravine areas. Bootjacks have about 5 other good problems in the V1-V7 range and also potential for a few more new link-ups or low-balls. Overall The Ravine areas (Bootjack, Upper, Main and Lower Ravines) have about 35 mostly new problems from about V0-V9! Look for all the new problems in the next edition of Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO due out in a few years - but for now this blog is the best source of info :) The other bouldering areas are higher up the mountain and offer many more classics on generally better rock along with the world class views Tam is known for. Kenny Ariza, Elliot Carlsen and myself have developed most of the new stuff but a few problems had been established for many years.
>>NEWS FLASH!! I just heard through the grapevine (Sendage.com) that super strong Bay Area local rock star Natasha Barnes just repeated both of the new problems at The Ravine. I also read on her blog that Max Zolotukhin did the low sit start to the original problem "Crumble Mumble" (V6) calling it "Mount Tamil Tiger Turd" (V8)<<
The Ravine Boulder (left to right)
>1 "Crumble Mumble" V6** sit start with left hand notch and right hand undercling then go up over short bulge on far left side - V3** stand start.
FA = Chris Summit 2008
or "Mount Tamil Tiger Turd" V8** low sit start to #1 - same start as Bonum Vitae on low rail.
FA = Max Zolotukhin 2012
>2 "Locked Keys" V4** stand start center roof between #1 and #3 - sit start?!
FA = Chris Summit 2012
>3 "Wicked" V9*** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low left side) same as #4 up right before turning left at the stand start then passing a w-shaped Vulcan grip then up left to top - stand start V4***
FA = Brett Shingu 2012
>4 "Bonum Vitae" V7*** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then crank past sloper rail moves angling up right into stand start crack top out - stand start V1***
FA = Reid Augustino 2012
>5 "White Knuckles" V7*** mid sit start (same as Tender Vittles) on good right hand slot pocket and low left hand undercling then angle up left into Wicked or V8**? from the low sit start (in winter-spring it is often over/under water - stacking logs/branches helps) - or
"Tender Vittles" V2** mid sit start and go up into the stand start of Bonum Vitae or V5** low sit start (often under/over water in winter-spring) then up left into stand start of Bonum Vitae.
FA = Chris Summit 2012
The Ravine Boulder
*Get more info on Mt Tam Bouldering in Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering and get more cragging info for Tam in Bay Area Top Ropes - all by SUPERTOPO.
Mt Tam Bouldering Fall 2012 - YOUTUBE
"Wicked" V9 FA The Ravine - YOUTUBE
Sunday, August 5, 2012
The Swamp Meadow Boulders
Blue Lakes, Tahoe, CA.
I've been healing an injured finger for the last couple months from crimping and I've just started pulling on jugs again. This is my first day back pushing myself a bit on real stone so I decided to find some new boulders with first ascents and go at it! The best of them was "Snake Eyes" V4 FA which felt a bit harder than it should have but it was totally worth it. These problems may not be that hard but they are on rare pocketed granite right off the side of the road in a gorgeous setting :)
1 "Snake Eyes" V4 stand start on side by side pockets and go up right over sloper lip.
2 "Swamp Pockets" V2 sit start left bulge/face with cool pockets - VB stand start.
3 "Swamp Face" V0 stand V1 sit - center of juggy face - good warmup.
4 "Swamp Traverse" V4 start on far right and traverse left into #3 to finish. (or - same start then up?)
5 VB easy way up/downclimb.
6 "Swamp Crack" VB
7 "Swamped" V2 stand start arete.
9 VB small boulder with jugs.
11 Slab face left of Swamp Crack with diagonal undercling?
12 Start left of Snake Eyes?
Swamp Meadow Boulders HD Video - YOUTUBE: