Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Think Global Climb Local

LOVE Travel!!
but,
also appreciate and cherish and eat up your local outdoor rocks like you would eat up your local fresh raw organic and cheerfully grown foods. Let your local rock climbing routes and boulder problems become part of your spirit, your DNA, your technique base and your overall skill set, the same as the food you eat becomes part of your body mass, and in turn, your heart and soul.

You are what you eat so you are what you climb!
:)


Tuesday, May 24, 2016

My Suggested Hard Local Sport Routes and Boulder Problems in Progressive Difficulty - North Bay Area CA.

Here are My Suggested Routes and Boulder Problems in Progressive Difficulty for the North San Francisco Bay Area for rising up from average 5.10-5.11 climbing into solid 5.12-5.13 sport or from moderate level V4-V6 up to solid more advanced levels of V7-V10 bouldering. Whether for the first time pushing into these higher grades ever or just locally or for coming back from injuries or time off. These are mostly climbs or boulder problems that I have done successfully or done first ascent of or at least tried and heard a lot about over the years. This list is my personal favorites based on easy public access and/or relatively safe protection or landing zones and fairly good to great quality rock and movement. The tried and true well trodden popular consensus graded entry level full value local must-do classic:
~~My TOP 15 Sport / TOP 15 Boulder - total 30:



Sport Climbs
5.11d - 5.12a/b
"Hot Tuna" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach
"Nancy" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach
"Courtney" 5.11d/12a Mickeys Beach

5.12b/c
"Swallow My Pride" 5.12b/c Mt St Helena
"Sea Monster" 5.12b/c Mickeys Beach
"Sea Biscuit" 5.12b/c Salt Point

5.12c/d
"Sex Porpoises" 5.12c Mickeys Beach
"Wet Dreams" 5.12c/d Mickeys Beach
"Pseudo Bohemian" 5.12d/13a Sea Crag

5.13a/b
"Squid Vicious" 5.12d/13a Mickeys Beach
"Naked and Disfigured" 5.12d/13a Mickeys Beach
"Holy Mackerel" 5.13a Mickeys Beach

5.13b/c
"Endless Bummer" 5.13b Mickeys Beach
"Dreams of White Porsches" 5.13b Mickeys Beach
"Judge Dredd" 5.13b Sea Crag



Boulder Problems
V6 
"Fort Rosstafarian" V6 Fort Ross
"Living A Dream" V6 Fort Ross
"SHP Sit" V6 Putah Creek

V7
"Living A Nightmare" V7 Fort Ross
"Hellspawn" V7 Putah Creek
"Little Wing" V7 Stinson Beach

V8
"Nat's Traverse" V8 Berkeley (East Bay)
"Welcome To Whinecountry" V8 Putah Creek
"Orange Buddha Arete" V8 Mickeys Beach

V9
"Wicked" V9 Mt Tam
"Little Wing Sit" V9 Stinson Beach
"Grand Finale" V9/10 (aka Relentless) Fort Ross

V10
"Open Mind" V10 Goat Rock
"The Hard Traverse V10/11 Goat Rock
"Relentless Traverse" (aka Grand Finale) V10/11 Fort Ross





Middle Ravine Boulders - Mt Tam 2016




In Rattlesnake Creek just downhill (about 2-3min) from the parking on the roadside next to the Ravine Boulder (Wicked/Bonum Vitae) and the parking for The Intuition Boulders. About 1/3 of the way downhill from the parking areas to the Lower Ravine Boulders on a shady yet semi exposed hillside/ridgeline. About 12-15 fun moderate lowballs VB-V6~!







1 V5? original short steep right side bulge sit on low right hand flat edge and low left hand side-pull.
FA=??
2 V6? same short steep bulge sit as #1 then traverse left into #4 ~ pumpy sloper lowball classic! FA=CS
3 V5/6? start on left on side by side slot jugs traverse right into #1 - or V? add #4 pocket sit start!?
FA=CS
4 V2/3 stand left face - or V? sit left hand pocket and low right hand on same start hold as #1+2!?
FA=??
5 ?

6 V2/3? sit start arete up into left slab face - or VB stand start slab face. FA=??
7 "Rock N Roll Arete" V3/4? sit start same as #6 up right into top of #9. FA=CS
8 V3/4? sit start same as #9 up left into #6. FA=CS?
9 "Rollie Pollie Ollie" V3/4? sit start with low right hand side-pull and left hand on lip slot and go up right side face. FA=CS
10 ?


11 V0/1 face/arete. FA=??
12 ?
















Main Bootjack Parking Lot
13 "Acetylcholine" V2? face above trail above northeast end of Bootjack Parking Lot. FA=LVW
14 "Elfquest" V3? sit start overhang or V1 stand start next to bridge ~10min up Matt Lewis Trail from Bootjack Parking Lot or ~10min on deer trails up Rattlesnake Creek from Ravine. FA=CS
15 ?










Thursday, May 19, 2016

Northeast Mendocino County Climbing/Bouldering

Eel River/Dos Rios/Covelo/Black Butte/M1 Climbing/Bouldering


~In order from US101 east on CA162/Covelo Rd to Dos Rios - Covelo - Black Butte - M1.
Over 150 established boulder problems and sport/trad/tr routes with potential for 500+ total!
Only new problems and classics listed - for more info check out:
 Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo



? Boulders (~10+ boulder problems!?)
?


The Glass Boulders (potential for ~25+ boulder problems!?)
Wobble Wobble VB/0
Shake It Shake It V0
Bulletproof V4/5
V1/2 DWS!
?


The Gold Vein Boulders (~10+ boulder problems!?)
Gold Vein!?
V3/4
V2/3
?


Straddle Monkey Boulder/(Tatu Boulders?) (~10+ boulder problems!?)
Straddle Monkey V2/3
Straddle Monkey Traverse V3/4
?


Upper Main Fork Boulders (~15+ boulder problems!?)
V4/5
V3/4
V2/3
V0/1
?


The Hideout (potential for ~25+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
Christal Method V3R stand or V4R sit
Twisted V7/8
Twister V4
V2/3
Fish Out Of Water V3/4
?


Deadman's Rocks (potential for ~50+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
Mainline aka Deadman's Crack 5.10
Mystic Rhythm 5.11
Liquid Fire 5.12
Electric Eel V3/4 or Direct Electric V6?
Shock Therapy V3/4?
Chuanga V4/5
Brass Funky V6/7
Bronze Arete V2/3
Bronze Face V4/5
Mainline Traverse V6
Miniline V4
V3/4 stand or V5/6 mid stand or V6/7 low sit arete?
V2/3 mini sit?
V5/6 cave traverse?


Dos Rios Boulders (potential for ~25+ boulder problems!?)
Negra Modelo V2/3
The Principal V4 mid stand or V? low stand!?
Cricket Face V0/1 stand or V3/4 sit
The Ritual V3/4 stand
Pitfall Arete V!?
?
Stranded Boulders
Stranded V4
Stranded Arete V0
RawSafari V0R/W
!?


Swallow Rock (potential for ~100+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
Green Slab 5.9 3 bolts
Black Slab 5.11 7 bolts
Hard to Swallow 5.12 7 bolts
Covelocos Corner 5.10 trad
Bomb Ass Dookie V4 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Can of Whoop Ass V5 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Bomb Ass Traverse V6 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Bomb Ass Arete V2/3 (harder since boulder tipped steeper in landslide!?)
Tricks Are For Kids V5/6 stand or V8/9 sit
Skyhook V5 and Skyhawk V6
Firestarter V4
Firestarter Traverse V5
Jaded V4 - or V8 low
Gnar Gnar V7 sit or Gnar V3 stand
Shaded Traverse V6
Made in the Shade V5
Christal Gaston V4
V!? arete project
VB/0
V0/1
V1/2
V2/3
V3/4
V4/5
V5/6
V8/9/10!?
!!??


Goforth Creek Boulders (~10+ boulder problems!?)
Gopher V3/4
Goforth Crack VB/0
Goforth Arete V5/6 sit or V1/2 stand
Goforth Face aka Flat World Project V6/7!?
?


Poonkinney Crag (potential for ~10+ routes and boulder problems!?)
!?


Black Butte Bridge Beach Boulders (potential for ~25+ boulder problems!?)
TBBPIM V6R
Black Butte Arete V5
BB Arete Direct V7
Sendocino V3/4
Sendocino Slab V0/1
?


The Falls (potential for ~100+ boulder problems!?)
Slick Willy Traverse V3/4
Vagabond V4/5
Vixen V5
Vampire V4
Run and Jump V3/4
?


M1 Area (potential for ~100+ routes and/or boulder problems!?)
M16 V4
Yellowbelly V5
V4/5
V4/5
?

Indian Dick (potential for ~20+ boulder problems!?)
V1/2
V3/4
?


Tuesday, May 17, 2016

My TOP 15 unrepeated or rarely repeated first ascents ~ C'mon! !

With hopes for these climbs that I found and/or did first to get their first repeat and confirm the grade and/or just to be shared and appreciated more since they were either forgotten or are unknown. Here is a list of my unrepeated or very rarely repeated climbs or boulder problems that I did first ascent of recently or as long as ~20 years ago so they are near and dear to me:

If anyone repeats one of my unrepeated first ascents on this list I will buy you a pint of beer or a taco, maybe even a supertaco and I will love you and be your f'n bff!  :)


*****=world classic imo~


"Bump n Grind" V9****!? Unrepeated!?
Clark Canyon, Mammoth/Eastside

"Summit Fever" V8*****? Unrepeated!?
Clark Canyon, Mammoth/Eastside

"Stony Traverse" V7/8***? Unrepeated!?
Salt Point

"Tower of Power" V7/8***? Unrepeated!?
Sugarloaf Ridge

"Black Butte Direct Arete" V6/7*****? Unrepeated!?
Black Butte Beach Boulder, Mendocino

"Schoolhouse Rock" 5.12b/c***? Unrepeated!?
Schoolhouse Rock

"The Bird Is The Werd" 5.12b/c**? Unrepeated!?
Schoolhouse Rock

"Dark Christal" 5.12b/c*** TR? ~ V5/6R/X highball!? Unrepeated!?
Eel River/Mendocino

"Liquid Fire" 5.12a***? ~ maybe 1-3 ascents as of 2016.?
Main Fork/Deadman's Rocks, Mendocino

"Slapstick" V8/9****? ~ maybe 1-3 ascents as of 2016.?
Salt Point

"Bridge Over Troubled Water" 5.12d/.13a****!? ~ maybe 1-3 ascents as of 2016.?
Limestone Natural Bridge

"Pinch Hitter" 5.12b/c****? ~ maybe 1-3 ascents as of 2016.?
Limestone Natural Bridge

"Don't Call Me Squaw" 5.12a/b***? ~ maybe 1-3 ascents as of 2016.?
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock

"Resurrection" 5.12aR***!? Unrepeated!?
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock

"April Fools Traverse" V3/4R***? ~ maybe 1-3 ascents as of 2016.?
Pinnacle Rock, Berkeley











Sunday, May 15, 2016

TOP 12 Boulder Problems in Mendocino (outside of the Eel River/Dos Rios/Covelo/Black Butte/M1 area)

FA's(First Ascents):
CS=Me,  CB=Chuck Barrett, MN=Marcos Nunez, RE=Richie Esquibel, RM=Rob McKay
~in no particular order~ *****=world classic


"Boonedocks Highball" V7***** steep sit start into highball face top out FA: CB
The Boondedocks Boulders {access unsure}

"Dragon Fish" V7**** steep sit start into high arete FA: CS
The Boondedocks Boulders {access unsure}

"Booneville / Anderson Valley Crack" V3/4R****? highball crack FA: RM?
Booneville - Anderson Valley {access unsure}

"Low Gap Crack" V0R/X**** splitter highball crack (5.9**** TR) FA: ??
Low Gap - Ukiah {access unsure}

"Fuck Face" V4**** (5.12a*** TR) steep high face/crack FA: ?? / low sit V5**** FA: CS  
Low Gap - Ukiah {access unsure}

"Fuck Face Traverse" V6*** sit direct traverse up right into face/crack FA: CS
Low Gap - Ukiah {access unsure}

"Fuck Face Direct" V8**** steep high face FA: CB
Low Gap - Ukiah {access unsure}

"Land of the Free Home of the Brave" V3R*** FA: CS
Low Gap - Ukiah {access unsure}

"Orange Face" V6***** highball orange pocketed lichen face FA: CS
Haven's Nest - Mendo Coast {access unsure}

"Gray Arete" V4/5**** high gray pocketed sloper arete FA: RE
Haven's Nest - Mendo Coast {access unsure}

"Russian River Arete" V4**** sit start steep gymnastic fun arete FA: MN
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Russian River Boulder

"Russian River Corner" V4*** sit start steep high corner crack/arete FA: MN
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Russian River Boulder















TOP 15 sport/trad/top rope climbs in Mendocino County CA.

The TOP 15 sport / traditional / top rope rock climbing routes in Mendocino County, CA.
(and just about the only 15 rock climbs in the entire county ~ lol :)

FA's(First Ascents): CS=Me, JG=John Gruey, JM=Jordy Morgan, NL=Nick Lockwood
~no particular order~  *****=world classic


"Covelocos Corner" 5.10***** corner crack/dihedral {Trad} FA: JG(TR) / ??(Lead)
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Hard to Swallow" 5.12a**** 7 bolts ~ arete FA: CS
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Black Slab" 5.11*** 7 bolts ~ face/slab - ground up! FA: CS/JM
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Green Slab" 5.9*** 3 bolts ~ face/slab - ground up! FA: CS/JM
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Snakecharmer 5.11** short thin crack/face {Trad} FA: CS
Middle Fork Eel River - Swallow Rock

"Mainline" aka "Deadman's Crack" 5.10*** short crack {Trad} TR/lead/boulder FA: CS V1R/X
Main Fork Eel River - Deadman's Rocks

"Liquid Fire" 5.12a*** 4 bolts ~ steep face FA: CS
Main Fork Eel River - Deadman's Rocks

"Mystic Rhythm" 5.11*** 3 bolts ~ face FA: CS
Main Fork Eel River - Deadman's Rocks

"Low Gap Crack" 5.9**** splitter crack {Trad} TR/lead/boulder V0R/X**** highball FA: ??
Low Gap - Ukiah [access unsure]

"Braveheart" 5.10*** 2 bolts ~ short lead or classic highball V1R/X***** boulder problem FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Brave Boulders

"Smoke Crack" 5.10*** boulder crack to gold corner finger crack {Trad} FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Untamed Rocks

"The Shrew" aka "Shit Face" 5.11*** 4 bolts ~ slab face FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Untamed Rocks

"Joint Effort" 5.12b*** 4 bolts ~ slab face traverse - ground up! FA: CS/NL
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock - Untamed Rocks

"Don't Call Me Squaw" 5.12b*** 4 bolts ~ face - ground up! FA: CS
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock

"Resurrection" 5.12aR*** 2 bolts ~ short steep bouldery runout face - ground up! FA: CS/JM
Squaw/Frogwoman Rock











Saturday, May 14, 2016

TOP 15 Eel River/Dos Rios/Covelo/Black Butte/M1 Boulder Problems




TOP 15 Eel River/Dos Rios/Covelo/Black Butte/M1 Mendo Boulder Problems - with variations & projects :)
FA's(First Ascents): CS=Me, MN=Marcos Nunez, KJ=Kevin Jorgeson, RB=Russ Bobzien
~in no particular order~ *****=world classic

"TheBestBoulderProblemInMendo" aka "TBBPIM" V6R***** stand start high face FA: MN or sit!?
Black Butte Beach Boulder

"Black Butte Arete" V4R***** stand start high arete or V5R***** sit FA: CS
or "Black Butte Face" V!? project!
Black Butte Beach Boulder

"BB Arete Direct" V7**** sit start direct high arete/prow FA: CS
Black Butte Beach Boulder

"Sendocino" V3***** sit start overhang to high slab FA: CS
Black Butte Beach Boulder

"Vagabond" V4/5*** sit start steep pumpy cave traverse FA: CS
The Falls

"Slick Willy Traverse" V3**** 50ft face traverse FA: CS ~undone 20ft start/end=70ft project!?
The Falls

"Tricks Are For Kids" V4/5**** stand start roof FA: CS or V8/9**** sit FA: KJ or low sit V!?
Middle Fork/Swallow Rock

"Bomb Ass Dookie" V4/5**** stand start center face/corner FA: CS
{boulder tipped in landslide ~ now harder!?}
Middle Fork/Swallow Rock

"Can Of Whoop Ass" V5/6**** direct overhanging face FA: CS
{boulder tipped in landslide ~ now harder!?}
Middle Fork/Swallow Rock

"Pitfall Arete" V5/6!?**** face to high right arete over water/rock pit. FA: ??
Dos Rios

"The Ritual" V4/5**** stand start face or low start(s)!? FA: CS
Dos Rios

"The Principal" V4**** stand start face or low compression crimps start V!? FA: CS
Dos Rios

"Electric Eel" V4***** sit start FA: CS or direct V6/7**** FA: CS/RB? or mega direct V!?
Main Fork/Deadman's Rocks

"Christal Method" V3R***** stand start or V4R***** sit start FA: CS
The Hideout

"Twisted" V7**** sit start FA: CS or low sit!? or "Twisted Direct" V!? project!?
The Hideout


"Christal Method"