Tuesday, November 28, 2017

For over 25 years I've done ~1000+ first ascents with ~100 this year alone on almost every type of stone. Cleaning/trundling loose rock off first ascents is an often overlooked and under appreciated risky part of establishing new routes. It is risky for the person doing it and it is risky for all those that follow if it is not done properly or not done at all in some instances. There is also a fine line between over cleaning for safety and under cleaning for aesthetics (good) and laziness (~bad). Never assume the rock even on established old classics is solid until every hold is searched for visible fractures as well as inspected by hand, knocking and listening as well as feeling for hollowness and vibrations. Even then I have still had seeminlgy solid holds break on me. This dude is lucky this was not worse - be frkn careful; 

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Pinnacles Bouldering

East Side - Moses Spring Trail/Bear Gulch Caves
Moses Spring Trail
1 "Yellowjacket" V3/4 FA=CS
2 V5/6? traverse into Yellowjacket!?
3 V6/7? face right of Yellowjacket!?
4 "Dabbage Incorporated" V4/5 FA=CS
5 face left of Dabbage Inc?
6 "Chunky Monkey" V4 low sit V1/2 stand - short left arete. FA=CS
7 "Funky Monkey" V3/4 center face/roof low sit. FA=CS
8 V2/3 right arete/roof sit. FA=DH
9 ?
10 high left arete?
11 high face corner right of high arete?
12 high arete/face on hill?
Bear Gulch Caves
13 steep cave face far left - and/or traverse lip right?
14 V3/4 steep cave face right side left of hueco direct to lip or traverse right. FA=CS
15 V2 steep cave face right start hueco to lip or traverse lip right into #16. FA=DH
16 V1 steep cave face far right start hueco then traverse right. FA=CS
17 V4 short steep boulder in cave. FA=DH
18 V2/3 low start right hand pocket past edge to lip match and drop. FA=CS
19 V3/4 knob face sit start next to trail up left into slot. FA=CS
20 crack roof face over trail!?
21 "Monolith Traverse" V4-V6 harder depending on exactly where you start or finish - traverse right to left from Cantaloupe Death to Regular Route. The first official boulder problem on Pinnacles East Side. FA: Jim Thornburg
22 Discovery Wall area traverse(s)!?
23 boulder face next to reservoir?
24 boulder face right side next to reservoir?
Teaching Rock/High Peaks
25 "Teaching Rock Traverse"VB/0 traverse backside/south side of Teaching Rock FA=CS/DH?
26 semi highball knobby slab/face above traverse?
27 semi highball knobby slab/face above traverse??
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?

West Side - Juniper Canyon Trail
Juniper Creek Boulders
1 traverse on hill below trail?
2 slab face?
3 sit overhang prow into slab?
4 pillar in creek!?
5 steep face to lip drop or high slab top!?
The Choss Balls - Lower Choss Ball
6 "The Scrotum"? chossy highball crack jug seam on center face of the lower choss ball!?
7 lower choss ball face(s)??
8 ??
9 ??
Upper Choss Ball
10 V0 easy up/downclimb far right side. FA=CS
11 "Shake The Monkey" V1 up left across shaky jugs into face left of downclimb. FA=CS
12 V2/3 sit start up into face left of downclimb. FA=AH
13 "Slob on my Knob" V2/3 sit start face center-right. FA=CS
14 "Jukebox Hero" V3 sit start face center-left or V1 stand start. FA=CS
15 "Flotsam" V3/4 left low stand start up into center-left face or direct start "Jetsam" V4. FA=CS
16 "Choss Ballers Traverse" V5/6 sit start face center-left then traverse right into downclimb. FA=CS
17 "Ball Fondler Traverse" V5/6 start on downclimb traverse left into left face top out. FA=AH
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

West Side - Balconies Trail
1 steep boulder up right of trail at entrance to first caves.
2 short red boulder right of trail at entrance to first caves.
3 boulder(s) left of trail at entrance to first caves.
4 boulder(s) in creek left of trail at entrance to first caves.
5 "Anticlimactic Traverse" V4/5 traverse huecos, underclings and pockets on center face on base of cliff just right of trail - V4 finish or V5/6? natural thread start? FA=CS
Bouldering Rock
6 arete - vert left or slabby right side.
7 VB classic slabby slab with bolts on top - left or right variations or traverse up to V0/1. FA=??
8 V1/2 left side of main face from right hand slot pocket start. FA=??
9 V3/4 low hueco sit start flake face or V1/2 stand start. FA=??/AH(sit)
10 "Hueco Sit Start" V4 low hueco sit or V2 stand edges to lip or V3 mid start. FA=??/CS(sit)
11 V2/3 direct sit start face left of arete.
12 V1/2 sit start warm up arete. FA=??
13 V5/6 mid start face right of arete. FA=AH
14 "Original Classic" V3 sit start is crumbly but might be possible with some love!? FA=??
15 V2/3/4? right arete/lip traverse up into top of the original classic.
16 traverse up right into high face!?
17 sit start rail up right into high face!?
18 sit start direct up into high face!?
19 right start up into high face!?
The Rookie Rock
20 5.4X slab? ~accèss to top.
21 "The Rookie" 5.10 top rope face.
22 "Ring of Fire" V4 stand start left pocket on big overhang and pull onto slab - or sit!? FA=CS
23 "The Nookie Arete" V3 low sit start compression arete on big overhang up left onto slab. FA=CS
24 ""Sharma Project""!? - high face project.!?
25 face(s) right of Sharma Project!?
26 face far right of Sharma Project over trail near corridor!?
27 short face on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
28 short face/crack on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
29 short traverse on rock next to Rookie Rock in corridor?
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

The Rockshelter aka "Coyote Hole"

Rockshelter/Coyote Hole - right to left:
{Please tread lightly here - respect this precious sacred ancient historic cave}

1 VB easy way up/down.
2 V0 sit start short slab corner. FA=NJ
3 Sabertooth Sneak Attack V1/2 right sit then up left - or V0 stand. FA=SL
4 Coyote Attack V3 right sit then traverse left and up into main top out same as #5+6. FA=CS
5 Coyote Direct V3/4 sit under cave and up over main top out. FA=CS
6 The Coyote V1/2 stand start main top out. FA=CS
7 Coyote Ugly V6 sit start near back of cave out right into main top out! FA=CS
7 Sacred Spirit V6 right sit then left into #8 to top out. AKA Coyote Traverse FA=CS
8 Coyote Arete V3 campus stand start off rock left arete/corner of cave over high landing. FA=DW? (original classic?)
9 V? face/corner?
11 V0 stand start or V0/1 sit left side. FA=?
12 VB far left stand. FA=?

Sunday, September 24, 2017

Forest/Adventure/Rock Climbing Therapy

A place to share information and ideas about the use of Rock Climbing / Bouldering as Therapy for many physical and mental health issues.

A mix of Adventure Therapy and Occupational Therapy, Climbing Therapy can be done on climbing walls/climbing structures but mainly at indoor climbing gyms. For the full package it can be done at outdoor climbing rocks (of course with proficient climbing guides/instructors) for the added benefit of Forest Therapy, also known as Forest Bathing, to totally maximize all of the potential therapeutic options and benefits of Rock Climbing Therapy in the most natural and efficient way. 

Rock Climbing Therapy - Facebook

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Orange Buddha Boulder - Mickeys Beach - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Winter 2017 the main bouldering rock at Mickeys Beach known as The Orange Buddha Boulder or The Danger Boulder shifted on the sandy beach in the big wet storms. The boulder tilted to the south and east and seems to have slipped west, down and out toward the sea. Several problems are gone or drastically changed and all are different ratings now. Basically the problems on the north/nude beach side are higher but less steep and therefore easier now and the classic Orange Buddha Arete V8 and most of the problems to the right of it are now less than half as high, less than half as hard and way less than half as good. Only the Orange Buddha Face to the right of what was the Orange Buddha Arete is still high enough to be enjoyed and it is steeper and harder now ~ V4/5. The classic west face test-piece Bound By Tension was V11 but is now about V9 since the holds tilted and have become less sloper. The best new classic is the north east arete nicknamed "Plumass"? lol and is about V7.

Orange Buddha Boulder - West Face
(R to L)
1 ~V0/1 short overhanging juggy right arete.
2 Bound by Tension ~V9/10? sloper up steep prow right into #1.

Orange Buddha Boulder - North Face/Nude Beach Face
(L to R)
3 Peeping Tom ~V3
4 Diagonal Crack V1
5 Baseball ~V2
6 Don't Worry Be Snappy aka Wheel Well ~V3
7 Grace Face ~V3
8 Peeping Tom Traverse ~V4
9 Plumass ~V7 was The Changeling (~V4) variation to the left.

Orange Buddha Boulder - East Face
(L to R)
10 New Orange Buddha Arete ~V3
11 Orange Buddha Face ~V4/5
12 ~V1/2/3?
13 ~V6/7 low crimps sit.
14 ~V2/3 face left of arete.
15 ~V3/4 red boulder spire behind trail.

*classics lost or drastically changed;
Orange Buddha Arete V8 or V9 low left sit.
Orange Pleasure V4
Back in the Day V4
Bodhi Day V9
Dayo V6
Shark Sighting V10
Great White V8
Hammerhead V7
The Changeling V4

Saturday, July 8, 2017

Mortar Rock - Berkeley CA - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Mortar Rock
Mortar Rock - Main West Face
(left to right)
1 V? high face!? 
2 Nats Traverse V8 low (l to r) or Natural Nats V7 all holds/rail - into #6.
3 Nats Crack V0 dirty crack corner.
4 Sunshine V5 sit bulge up right or Sunshine Eliminate V9 direct up left / right of #3.
5 The Brink / Brink of Disaster aka Black Plague V6 face left of #6 or Sun Plague V7 #4 into #5
or Black Sun V6 stand or White Sun V7 sit #6 into #4 or White Plague V7 sit start #6 up into #5.
6 The Ramp V4 stand start featured scoop or V5 sit or V8 sit #9 or Sun Ramp V6 sit #4.
7 Stans Traverse V8 Nats backwards or V9 sit start #9 or Jungle Stans V8/9 from #8+9 stand.
8 Jungle Fever V8 *eliminate - stay right of #6 - or Full Fever V10 sit #9. 
9 New Wave V9 stand or The Kraken V11 low sit start under bulge.
10 Marks Traverse V11 stand start jug same as #11 bust left into #7.
11 Don't Worry Be Snappy V12 jug start up over steep roof/bulge or Snappy Wave V11 #11 into #9 or Snappy Fever V11 #11 into #8.
12 Impossible Traverse V13 same jug start right into #13 - or V!!?? start #2??
13 Impossible Wall V8 stand start or Mission Impossible V9 low stand.
14 Chinese Connection V12 low sit start #13.
15 Egypt Air V9 #13 into high left finish or V13 sit #14.
16 The Odyssey V7 jump start V9 stand or V12 sit.
17 Beached Whale V6 bulge slab up into to face or crack.
18 Bench Crack V1 high dirty crack or The Scoop V4 low left sit.
19 Bench Wall V2 stand or V3 sit classic high face or Bench Arete V4 stand V5 sit.
20 Bench Corner V3 stand or V4 sit or V0/1 far right slab.

Mortar Rock - Sidewalk Boulders
(right to left)
21 The Hand Traverse aka Sidewalk Traverse V1 lip traverse up left.  
22 Pipeline Traverse V5 with foot ledge V6 without - low face traverse (r to l).
24 The Boys Problem V5 sit or Rimshot V3 stand.
23 The Girls Problem V5 sit or V4 stand.
25 Little Half Dome V1 center face upper boulder or V2 traverse.

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Mark West / Safari West - Porter Creek

Secret Santa Rosa local rocks ~ word of mouth only ;)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Tombstone Rock
*Main Face - left to right:
1 Tombstone Arete 5.11a*** left arete finish or direct right face rail ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=DS
2 Tombstone Face 5.12a*** right face up left into run out rail finish ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=CS/SR
3 5.11+** right face to lone anchor. FA=DS
4 5.10* right arete - top rope or highball/solo. FA=DS
Traverse Face - right to left:
5 Tombstone Traverse V3**** right to left around low bulge up into V0** jug finish. (V3 into old overgrown far left finish and with extra far right old overgrown start/finish~) FA=DS
6 Scorched Earth V4/5 uphill left sit start face up to jug top - or Charred Remains V3/4 far uphill sit far left of tree up face to jugs. FA=DS/CS
7 The Hunger V6**** low sit start up right into Tombstoned Arete FA=CS or V6*** top out up into #4 top rope arete or highball/solo (often overgrown*) FA=CB. Tombstoned V5**** direct arete sit or V4*** stand start - up right to top out on jug ledge in corridor FA=CS
Grave Cave
8 Grave Cave Arete V2** sit start left arete. FA=DS/CS
9 Grave Cave V6**** sit start center of steep cave. FA=DS
10 Grave Cave Traverse V4*** sit right to left arete or sit left arete into top of #9. FA=CS
11 V6/7? low traverse right to left up into left face? FA=?
12 V6/7? low traverse right to left into arete? FA=?
Tombstone Boulders
13 Knob Arete V0/1*** stand start V1/2 sit start. V2/3 sit without left foot chunk. FA=DS
14 ? V4/5? low right sit up gaston rail up into right face. FA=AH or same sit up left into arete V4/5 FA=CS or Grave Digger V6 dyno! low sit to big horizontal rail. FA=MW

V0* left slab face. V1/2 low right sit into left slab. FA=DS
15 Crystal Prow V0** sit start mantle over or V1* traverse right. (often mossy) FA=DS
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?

Stagecoach Rock
*left to right:
1 Stagecoach Traverse V1/2/3 traverse. FA=DS
2 LSD V4/5/6 FA=CS
3 V2/3/4? FA=DS
4 V0/1 FA=DS
5 V5 FA=RS
6 V5 FA=CB
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

Postwood Boulders
1 Postwood Traverse V2/3? FA=RT
2 V5 FA=RT
3 V0/1 FA=CS
4 V1/2 FA=RT
5 V2/3 FA=RT
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

The Backyard Boulders
Safari Boulder
1 V1 slab. FA=AC
2 Safari Arete V2/3 sit start arete. FA=CS
3 Safari West V5 sit start left or Safari Direct V6 sit direct no aretes. FA=AC
4 Safari East V5 right variation. FA=CS
5 V0 warm up lip traverse. FA=AC/CS
6 V1 overhung prow! FA=AC
Spider Boulder
7 Spider Senses V6 low sit start lip/arete up left into Spider Party. FA=CS
8 Spider Party V5 sit start V4 stand. FA=CS
9 Span The Man V6 low stand up left into #10 - or direct V5 up right - or sit!? FA=AC
10 ? V1 stand. FA=SR
11 V1 slab traverse up right under tree to end on top of #9+10. FA=CS
12 V5 sit start traverse up right into #11. FA=CS
13 V5 sit start traverse right and up into #14. FA=AC
14 V2 sit start on input jug and go up scoop face to jug slab top out. FA=AC
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
Creek Boulder
20 ?
Lone Boulder
21 ?
22 ?
Epoxy Boulder
23 Epoxy Classic V4 or low sit - original old school classic! FA=?
24 Natural Line V5 low stand or V3 stand start. FA=CS?
25 V3 jump start campus bulge - or sit start project!? FA=AC/CS
26 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=AC/CS
27 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=CS
28 Warmup Down-climb V4 sit start direct or V3/4 right - V1 stand start/down-climb. FA=AC/CS
29 Slithering Fear V0R highball slab ~ multi pitch bouldering! FA=RA
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Wind Tunnel Boulders - Sedona AZ

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Wind Tunnels / Wind Caves
1 roof crack!?
2 roof crack!?
3 ??

Warm Up Zone
4 VB* slab.
5 Lil Dog V0** sit short left arete. FA: JKM
6 Dog Party V3*** sit short right arete. FA: JKM
7 VB/0* face.
8 ??

Patchouli Boulder
Backside Roof - L to R:
9 Pioneers Progress V2*** traverse lip/crack up right to top. original classic. FA: KW
10 Pup and Mallard V5*** face up into top of #9. FA: JKM
11 ??

Main Face - L to R:
12 VB slab downclimb~ 
13 Slather Ass V0** crack start up face left to #12 slab. FA: JKM/CS
14 ? V0/1*** crack. FA: JKM
15 Patchouli Baby V6**** sit start center pocket face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
16 Egyptian Goddess V6**** sit start #15 up right face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
17 ? V5*** stand. Sit #15 ~V6? FA: JKM
18 Wind Chime Traverse V4*** sit #15 pocket traverse left up into #13. FA: CS
19 ??

Jason Kevin Moehlman on "Egyptian Goddess" V6FA

Endless Boulder
Main Face L to R:
20 Endless Beaches V5**** stand start. FA: ID
21 Winds of Change V4*** face. FA: CS
22 Squeeze Job V4** short face between rocks. FA: CS
23 ??

24 Earth Wind and Fire V6*** roof-lip-arete-jug ~ step off. FA: CS
25 E.W.a.F. Extension!?
Me on "Earth Wind and Fire" V6FA with Kahuna :)

Monday, April 24, 2017

Cougar Crag

Secret Santa Rosa local crag ~ word of mouth only :)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

1 slab?
2 ?
3 ?
4 hand crack?
5 ?
6 ?
7 "Cougartown" V3/4 FA=CS
8 ?
9 "Cat Woman" V1/2 FA=M
10 "Cat Woman Traverse"?
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 V2/3 FA=CS
16 high compression prow!?
17 ?
18 "Bat Wing" V1 right arete. FA=CS
19 "Bat Mantle" V4/5 traverse into mantle. FA=ST
20 "Bat Mantle Traverse" V4/5 traverse left to right. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 ?

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Knoxville, Lake County CA 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

The Dead Forest
The Billboard
left to right:
1 Billy Jack V4/5**** steep far left face/arete or V5/6*** from #4 no hands corner start. FA=CS
2 Billy Jack Traverse V6/7** main face traverse #7 left into #1. FA=CS
3 direct left face!?
4 Billboard Crack V0R**** highball crack/corner. FA=CS
5 billboard crack direct?
6 billboard diagonal crack?
7 Billboard Traverse V2/3*** traverse main face usually right to left to no hands corner at base of #4 or V4/5 low. FA=CS
8 main face 1 bolt TR/highball project!
9 sharp broken right arete TR??
10 Hillbilly Traverse V2/3** start at arete and traverse up right into Hillbilly V1/2 FA=CS

Billabong Boulder
11 VB* easy way up/down.
12 V0** FA=CS
13 V0** FA=CS
14 Sumpn Easy V1*** FA=CS
15 Billabong V1/2*** FA=CS
16 V2/3** FA=CS
17 Lil Sumpn Sumpn V4*** traverse low left to right. FA=CS
18 Billabong Traverse V4*** traverse right to left. FA=CS
19 Fillabong?
20 ?

The Obshidian Spearhead Boulder
1 Obshidian Arete V2 left arete/lip traverse. FA=RS?
2 Speartip Face V3 FA=RS/CS?
3 right arete sit?
4 ?
5 ?

Billboard Creek
1 V1/2** FA=CS
2 V2/3** FA=CS
3 V4/5** FA=CS
4 ?
5 ?

Dead Forest
uphill from bottom to top:
1 V2/3/4? prow - above Billboard Creek by itself. FA=RS
2 ?
3 Dead Forest Dyno V!? dyno!? sit!? FA=!?
4 ?
5 ?
6 ? V0** scenic but mini sized low start on pockets to flat lip mantle - up/downclimb. FA=SL
7 The Snakehead Traverse V0*** 360 left to right or V1*** right to left. FA=SL
8 The Snakehead VB/0*** high slab face - or V0** right sit or V1*** left sit. FA=CS
9 Snake Pit V0/1** sit up left juggy hand and foot rails FA=CS - or V1**R top out direct!?
10 Cobra Kai V?R!? highballish! FA=!?
11 ?
12 VB/0*** FA=CS/EB
13 VB/0*** FA=EB/CS
14 ?
15 Life After Death V1/2**** center right diagonal slots to jug lip top out! - or Burnout After Death V2/3*** traverse right to left up into #15. FA=CS
16 Live After Death V!? left/center face!? FA=!?
17 Burnout Traverse V1/2**** left to right crack rail into #19. FA=SR
18 Burnout Direct V2/3** upper traverse into arete - or Burnout Direct Sit V3/4** direct low sit up into V2/3 - or Burnout Face Direct V4/5*** face left of arete to hueco or direct to top - V5*** sit. FA=CS
19 Burnout VB/0*** slab face. FA=CS/EB
14 ?
15 ?
16 ? V0/1*** low sit to face top out left or same as #17. FA=SL
17 Deadbeat Arete V2/3**** sit arete up left into jug face top out. FA-CS
18 Deadpoint V6**** right side of steep arete to jug lip. FA=CS
19 Deadbeat V5/6**** stand steep crack/seam FA=CS - or low start V7/8/9!?
20 Deadbeat Crack V0/1*** sit right diagonal crack. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 Mongo Boulder!?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?

The Bushwhack  Boulders
1 V4/5**** FA=CS
2 V5/6**** FA=CB
3 V6*** FA=CS
4 V1/2*** FA=CS
5 V0/1*** FA=CS
6 VB/0*** FA=CS
7 V2/3/4**? FA=CS

Ecology Rocks aka Skinny Dip Rocks
1 V0*** FA=CS
2 V1**** FA=EB
3 VB/0*** FA=EB
4 V1/2*** or V2/3** FA=EB/CS
5 V1*** FA=CS
6 V0/1*** FA=CS
7 V3** FA=CS
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??




The Devilshead
1 The Devils Buttcrack V0/1 stand or V1/2 sit FA=CS
2 Buttface V2/3 right of the Buttcrack FA=CS
3 left of buttcrack?
4 traverse?
5 The Devilshead V2 sit V1 stand - main face of spire over flat rock FA=CS
6 Devilshead Direct V3R highball side of spire FA=RT
7 Devilish V2/3 main face of lower boulder FA=CS
8 Devilish Traverse traverse lower boulder V3/4 FA=CS
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Point - Gunshot Rock
1 VB*** up/down FA=CS
3 V0/1** FA=CS
4 V1/2/3** traverse FA=CS
5 V0/1R arete FA=RT
6 V0R crack FA=RT
7 ??
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Point - Bullet Boulder
right to left:
1 Bite the Bullet V1** face. FA=CS
2 Siriji's Traverse V2*** slab/face - left arete to right arete. FA=SL
3 Siriji's Traverse Extension V3** start left arete traverse up right into #1 V1 face. FA=CS
4 ? left face/arete?
5 V1 direct high face. FA=AC
6 ? right arete?
7 Special Edition V4*** sit face/seam arete to sloper lip traverse left into #10 top. FA=CS
8 Limited Addition V5*** sit seam no arete traverse left top out direct. (~low sit!?) FA=AC
9 Magic Bullet V5*** low right hand undercling stand start. (~low stand!?) FA=CS
10 Flower Gun V4**** sit start compression edges over sloper lip ~ mini classic! FA=CS
11 ??
12 ??
13 VB/0* left mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=CS
14 VB/0* right mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=AC
15 ??

The latest pics at Bullet Point 2017:
Sirijis Traverse

Flower Gun

Magic Bullet

Lake County Bouldering Vids;

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Top 15 Boulder Problems in the Bay Area - Spring 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

"Grand Finale" (aka "Relentless"V10***** low sit start ("Living A Dream" V6***** stand or "Livin La Vida Loca" V8**** original sit start - Fort Ross -- FA: V6 Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel, V8 Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien, V10 Ryan Tolentino.

"Fort Rossta" V6***** sit start (V4/5***** stand) - Fort Ross or "Living a Nightmare" V7**** (V5/6**** stand )-- FA: V4/5 Marcos Nunez, V6 Richie Esquibel/Chris Summit?, V5/6 Jim Thornburg, V7 Chris Summit

"Eco Terrorist" V10***** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma

"Groundation" V7**** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Summit?

"Yabo Roof" V5**** - Castle Rock -- FA: John Yablonski

"The Classic" V3***** stand (V4**** sit start) - Castle Rock -- FA: Bruce Morris?

"Watercourse" V0/1R**** - Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman? 

"Nat's Traverse" V8***** traverse low or V6/7**** traverse high/all holds - Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale

"Scotts Arete" V5**** stand start (V6**** sit) - Berkeley -- FA: Scott Frye

"Bucket Prow" V0R***** juggy highball/TRBerkeley -- FA: Sierra Club?

"Hellspawn" V7***** sit start  or "Hell Awaits" V4**** stand (V8**** low sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: V4 + V7 Chris Summit, V8 Charlie Barrett

"Mother Nature" V2**** stand start (V3/4**** sit) - Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit

"Pelican Arete" V0/1R***** clean highball/TR - Sunset Boulders -- FA: Jordi Morgan?

"Little Wing" V9**** sit - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien

"The Flake" V1**** stand (V2*** sit) - Ring Mt -- FA: Russ Bobzien

A few of these I could swap out with so many other equally classic problems but for now these are the best IMO. These are also only the legit publicly accessible ~half of all classics found in the Bay Area.

Monday, March 20, 2017

The Best of Sunrise Rocks ~ Spring 2017

Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge CA.
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
{~many local variations and link ups~}

Main Rock
"Sol Chaser" V3 left face/arete direct on separate detached block over rocky landing! FA=RC

"Sunlight Arete" V0* far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS
"Direct Sunlight" V1*** sit or V0** stand - face right of corner left of arete. FA=DW

"Synchrodipity" V2*** sit or V1** stand - arete/prow/face - high easy finish. FA=CS/LB

"Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left or direct up right V2/3*** - start on big jug chunk. FA=CS

V0/1R*** (or 5.9/10*** TR) high face just right of Sundial and left of prow - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT

V1/2R*** (or 5.10/11*** TR) high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit! FA=HH/RT

"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** low sit on right hand compression arete left of start for Sunrise Face and traverse steep face left into V6*** jug rail start and right into V5*** jug chunk start same as Sundial then low left around prow into far left arete. FA=CS

"Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS

!? steep bulge mega highball/TR project!! FA=!?

"Sol Rebel" V5*** sit start center of high steep face on edges go up to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol Rebel Direct" V5*** start right on undercling traverse direct up left to jug drop off. FA=AC
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** start on Sunrise Face and traverse direct up right to jug drop off. FA=CS

"Sol" V1/2**** start undercling pull up around right arete step off at no hands slab rest. FA=CS
"Sol Sacrifice" V2**** traverse V0** over rocks far right into VB/0** arete to top of rock. FA=CS
"Del Sol" V2/3*** direct low scrunchy fun sit into Sol. FA=EB

"Solar Wind" V5*** low start edges center face traverse right to big undercling up into Sol. FA=CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start then traverse right into Sol. FA=CS

"Savasana" V6/7*** same low sit start as Sol Rebel and Solar Wind then traverse high right into Sol arete staying above the big undercling (or V6** stand start). FA=CS
"Savasana Traverse"? V7? start far left and traverse right into Savasana. FA=?

V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS

"Stashbox" V1/2*** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1** slab arete. FA=CS
"Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4*** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS

Dawn Boulder
"Common Ground" V6**** center/left slab face - start next to waterfall :) V4*** left stand start. FA=CS/AC

"Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V2*** high right hand arete/face over creek left of waterfall! FA=DW

"New Dawn Arete" V2*** start FDWMBP and go up halfway then traverse right around arete over waterfall into top out of The Student. FA=CS

"The Student" V5/6*** mid sit over waterfall or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2** stand. FA=A?

Sungazer Boulder
"Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW
"Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW

"The Dirty Joke(s)"? V!? bulge/face projects left or right of Sun God!? FA=?

"Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit start then traverse up right into V5*** stand start high bulge/face center/right side of steep main face. (V6**** mid start) FA=CS
"Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece!} direct right low sit up left into Sun God V5 stand start (or V9/10**** mid sit)! FA: KJ 1-16-17
"Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same sit start as Sun God then traverse right into Sol Gazer!? FA: ?

"Sungazer" V2**** classic stand start on perfect campus board size edges crank over bulge up into high easy slab corner or V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into stand start. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse" V6** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7* start same as V6 traverse but direct/no jug chunk. FA=CS
"Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start jug chunk traverse edges left into Sungazer stand. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer" V6**** mid start direct on prow with right hand sloper and left hand undercling chunk and power past a sloper and crimps into Sungazer stand start to top out. FA=CS

"Sol Gazer Direct" aka "Sungazer Direct" V9/10*** low sit start (V9**** mid sit) top out direct up right into "Sungazer Direct Stand" V4** stand start sloper prow - or up right into Sol Gazer. FA: KJ

"Finger Slayer" V4** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into edges and right into jug chunk and top out or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (right jug chunk is off) FA=EB

Sunshine Boulder
"Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS

"Dark Star Arete" V2/3** short left hand arete sit top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Dark Star" V3*** sit far right face direct (no left arete) top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as arete then go right up face direct into Dark Star. FA=TC

"Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS

Dwarf Star Boulder
"Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of short steep face to perfect lip mantle. FA=CS
"Dwarf Toss" V4/5*** double dyno!! FA=CS

The Sunrise Rocks - blog

Sunrise Rocks Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering 2017 - YOUTUBE

Monday, February 20, 2017


I have 25 years of experience teaching climbing and bouldering indoors and out. I have redpointed 5.13, onsite flashed 5.12 and bouldered V10 outdoors as well as established over 1000 first ascents with 7 guidebooks to my credit. I love to teach and share my knowledge at local Bay Area rocks and rock gyms. I am currently a routesetter at Bridges Rock Gym. I specialize in physical and mental technique training such as; practicing safety first, reading a route, planning a sequence and movement drills. After taking a break from teaching for over a year I am ready to start again. My rate is $75 an hour but for this spring I am offering a $50 per hour deal. Hit me up to climb anytime!

My Amazon guidebook page:

Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Climbing is..

Climbing is a deeply rooted primal instinct that is much more than just an adventure or workout or sport. When nurtured, climbing can evolve into a holistic lifestyle, a therapeutic physical meditation, an outlet and an art. Aligning our consciousness with the natural flow of energy living inside of us and all throughout the universe we become one with ourselves as well as with our creator, mother nature.

Friday, January 27, 2017

My best~hardest Bouldering First Ascents 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** traverse - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Sun God" V7**** sit - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Jan 2017
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7** link-up - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Jan 2017
"Sol Gazer" V6*** stand - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Common Ground" V6*** high slab face - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Savasana" V6*** sit - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Feb 2017
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** left up to center drop - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Sol Rebel" V5*** center sit to drop - Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge, CA. Mar 2017
"Clay Pigeon Traverse" sit/traverse V4* Knoxville CA. Feb 2017
"Bite The Bullet" sit V4*** Knoxville CA. Feb 2017
"Siriji's Traverse Extension" traverse V3** Knoxville CA. Feb 2017