Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Clark Canyon Bouldering

The trailhead and the Parking Lot Boulder

"Summit Fever" V8 FA!

"Bump n Grind" V9? FA!


Parking Lot Boulder (a short bushwhack off the left of the crag trail)

*backside - left to right:
1 "Kurt's Problem" V6 stand V7 sit - mega classic rails to seam!
FA = Kurt Smith / 2nd ascent = Wilbur Nazarian - sit - FA = ??

2 "Summit Fever" V8 sit start right hand small pocket and left hand edge and boulder up left into #1 - or V7 stand start in sinker right hand two finger pocket. FA = Chris Summit

3 !? sit start right of #2 on same pocket but with left hand and angle up left into #2!?

4 !? do same sit as #3 then angle up right into or around #5!?

5 right hand arete!? or left hand arete/high slab face!?

*frontside(s) - left to right:
6 left arete(s)!?
7 center face!?
8 right side center face!?
9 right side traverse?
10 right side arete(s)!?

Parking Lot Boulders (around Parking Lot area)
11 face?
12 arete?
13 traverse?
14 !?
15 arete/face!?

Trailside Boulder (along the main trail about halfway to the crags)
*frontside - left to right:
16 "Trailside Slab" V3/4 the start is the crux!
FA = ??

17 "Bump n Grind" V9? sit start pocket under left hand sloper arete bulge - or V8? stand start bulge.
FA = Chris Summit (unrepeated!?)

18 "Bahl Hornin" V4 sit start or V2 direct left stand start or V1 right stand start on jug lip same as #19 but pull over and top out.
FA = Richie Esquibel

19 "Bahlers Traverse" V5 sit start #18 then traverse right along the lip into #20 or V2 from stand start on the jug lip into #20.
FA = Chris Summit

20 VB short up/down-climb on far uphill right side.

Clark Canyon Bouldering - YOUTUBE

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Spirits Wall - Mt Tam

Photo: Summitorplummet
Eliot Carlsen does the first ascent of
the class-sick "High Spirits" V6/7R!

Ken Ariza found this awesome boulder and did most of the first ascents on it but this line was unsent until yesterday September 5 2011 when Eliot Carlsen snagged the first ascent - great job Kenny and Eliot!!

Spirits Wall has about 15 problems (V1-V7) and potential for more!?

Spirits Wall - left to right:
1 VB slab left or center
2 V0 corner crack
3 "Absinthe Makes The Heart Grow Fonder" V3/4R left arete FA=KA
4 "Beam Me Up" V5R straight up slab between #3 and #5 FA=KA
5 "Two Buck Chuck" V5/6R sit FA=KA
6 "High Spirits" V6/7R steep, sort of highball, center face!! FA=EC or V7!? Low stand!?
7 "Cocktail Traverse" V5 stand V5/6 low stand!? FA=CS
8 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #6!?
9 "!?" sit start Two Buck Chuck then traverse up right into #7!?
10 "Groundhog" V4/5 sit (V1 stand on jug rail) - step off from slab onto rock or top out!? FA=KA
11 "!?" sit start #10 then traverse up left into #6!?
12 "!?" VB/0 crack and/or face!?
13 !?

(small boulder below #3)
14 Stupid Face V0 sit mini face then top out straight up
15 Stupor Traverse V1 sit then traverse right and up along low lip

Spirits Wall is below the radio towers on the top of the south/east side of the small peak just to the west of the East Peak of Mt Tam just downhill from the small green building that is next to the white building across/southwest from the big green dome :)

Cocktail Traverse V5/6 FA! - YOUTUBE