Thursday, May 11, 2017

Mark West / Safari West - Porter Creek

Secret Santa Rosa local rocks ~ word of mouth only ;)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

Tombstone Rock
*Main Face - left to right:
1 Tombstone Arete 5.11a*** left arete finish or direct right face rail ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=DS
2 Tombstone Face 5.12a*** right face up left into run out rail finish ~ Rusty Anchors* FA=CS/SR
3 5.11+** right face to lone anchor. FA=DS
4 5.10* right arete - top rope or highball/solo. FA=DS
Traverse Face - right to left:
5 Tombstone Traverse V3**** right to left around low bulge up into V0** jug finish. (V3 into old overgrown far left finish and with extra far right old overgrown start/finish~) FA=DS
6 Scorched Earth V4/5 uphill left sit start face up to jug top - or Charred Remains V3/4 far uphill sit far left of tree up face to jugs. FA=DS/CS
7 The Hunger V6**** low sit start up right into Tombstoned Arete FA=CS or V6*** top out up into #4 top rope arete or highball/solo (often overgrown*) FA=CB. Tombstoned V5**** direct arete sit or V4*** stand start - up right to top out on jug ledge in corridor FA=CS
Grave Cave
8 Grave Cave Arete V2** sit start left arete. FA=DS/CS
9 Grave Cave V6**** sit start center of steep cave. FA=DS
10 Grave Cave Traverse V4*** sit right to left arete or sit left arete into top of #9. FA=CS
11 V6/7? low traverse right to left up into left face? FA=?
12 V6/7? low traverse right to left into arete? FA=?
Tombstone Boulders
13 Knob Arete V1*** sit start. FA=DS
14 V0* slab. FA=DS
15 Crystal Prow V0** sit start mantle over or V1* traverse. FA=DS


Stagecoach Rock
*left to right:
1 Stagecoach Traverse V1/2/3 traverse. FA=DS
2 LSD V4/5/6 FA=CS
3 V2/3/4? FA=DS
4 V0/1 FA=DS
5 V5 FA=RS
6 V5 FA=CB
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

Postwood Boulders
1 Postwood Traverse V2/3? FA=RT
2 V5 FA=RT
3 V0/1 FA=CS
4 V1/2 FA=RT
5 V2/3 FA=RT
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?

The Backyard Boulders
Safari Boulder
1 V1 slab. FA=AC
2 Safari Arete V2/3 sit start arete. FA=CS
3 Safari West V5 sit start left or Safari Direct V6 sit direct no aretes. FA=AC
4 Safari East V5 right variation. FA=CS
5 V0 warm up lip traverse. FA=AC/CS
6 V1 overhung prow! FA=AC
Spider Boulder
7 Spider Senses V6 low sit start lip/arete up left into Spider Party. FA=CS
8 Spider Party V5 sit start V4 stand. FA=CS
9 Span The Man V6 low stand up left into #10 - or direct V5 up right - or sit!? FA=AC
10 ? V1 stand. FA=SR
11 V1 slab traverse up right under tree to end on top of #9+10. FA=CS
12 V5 sit start traverse up right into #11. FA=CS
13 V5 sit start traverse right and up into #14. FA=AC
14 V2 sit start on input jug and go up scoop face to jug slab top out. FA=AC
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
Creek Boulder
20 ?
Lone Boulder
21 ?
22 ?
Epoxy Boulder
23 Epoxy Classic V4 or low sit - original old school classic! FA=?
24 Natural Line V5 low stand or V3 stand start. FA=CS?
25 V3 jump start campus bulge - or sit start project!? FA=AC/CS
26 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=AC/CS
27 V5 sit start or V3 stand start. FA=CS
28 Warmup Down-climb V4 sit start direct or V3/4 right - V1 stand start/down-climb. FA=AC/CS
29 Slithering Fear V0R highball slab ~ multi pitch bouldering! FA=RA
30 ?
31 ?
32 ?
33 ?
34 ?
35 ?













Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Wind Tunnel Boulders - Sedona AZ

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic





Wind Tunnels / Wind Caves
1 roof crack!?
2 roof crack!?
3 ??

Warm Up Zone
4 VB* slab.
5 Lil Dog V0** sit short left arete. FA: JKM
6 Dog Party V3*** sit short right arete. FA: JKM
7 VB/0* face.
8 ??

Patchouli Boulder
Backside Roof - L to R:
9 Pioneers Progress V2*** traverse lip/crack up right to top. original classic. FA: KW
10 Pup and Mallard V5*** face up into top of #9. FA: JKM
11 ??

Main Face - L to R:
12 VB slab downclimb~ 
13 Slather Ass V0** crack start up face left to #12 slab. FA: JKM/CS
14 ? V0/1*** crack. FA: JKM
15 Patchouli Baby V6**** sit start center pocket face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
16 Egyptian Goddess V6**** sit start #15 up right face - or V5 stand. FA: JKM
17 ? V5*** stand. Sit #15 ~V6? FA: JKM
18 Wind Chime Traverse V4*** sit #15 pocket traverse left up into #13. FA: CS
19 ??

Jason Kevin Moehlman on "Egyptian Goddess" V6FA

Endless Boulder
Main Face L to R:
20 Endless Beaches V5**** stand start. FA: ID
21 Winds of Change V4*** face. FA: CS
22 Squeeze Job V4** short face between rocks. FA: CS
23 ??

Backside:
24 Earth Wind and Fire V6*** roof-lip-arete-jug ~ step off. FA: CS
25 E.W.a.F. Extension!?
Me on "Earth Wind and Fire" V6FA with Kahuna :)