Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Orange Buddha Boulder - Mickeys Beach - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Winter 2017 the main bouldering rock at Mickeys Beach known as The Orange Buddha Boulder or The Danger Boulder shifted on the sandy beach in the big wet storms. The boulder tilted to the south and east and seems to have slipped west, down and out toward the sea. Several problems are gone or drastically changed and all are different ratings now. Basically the problems on the north/nude beach side are higher but less steep and therefore easier now and the classic Orange Buddha Arete V8 and most of the problems to the right of it are now less than half as high, less than half as hard and way less than half as good. Only the Orange Buddha Face to the right of what was the Orange Buddha Arete is still high enough to be enjoyed and it is steeper and harder now ~ V4/5. The classic west face test-piece Bound By Tension was V11 but is now about V9 since the holds tilted and have become less sloper. The best new classic is the north east arete nicknamed "Plumass"? lol and is about V7.


Orange Buddha Boulder - West Face
(R to L)
1 ~V0/1 short overhanging juggy right arete.
2 Bound by Tension ~V9 sloper up steep prow right into #1.

Orange Buddha Boulder - North Face/Nude Beach Face
(L to R)
3 Peeping Tom ~V3
4 Diagonal Crack V1
5 Baseball ~V2
6 Don't Worry Be Snappy aka Wheel Well ~V3
7 Grace Face ~V3
8 Peeping Tom Traverse ~V4
9 Plumass ~V7 was The Changeling (~V4) variation to the left.

Orange Buddha Boulder - East Face
(L to R)
10 New Orange Buddha Arete ~V3
11 Orange Buddha Face ~V4/5
12 ~V1/2/3?
13 ~V6/7 low crimps sit.
14 ~V2/3 face left of arete.
15 ~V3/4 red boulder spire behind trail.


*classics lost or drastically changed;
Orange Buddha Arete V8 or V9 low left sit.
Orange Pleasure V4
Back in the Day V4
Bodhi Day V9
Dayo V6
Shark Sighting V10
Great White V8
Hammerhead V7
The Changeling V4









Saturday, July 8, 2017

Mortar Rock - Berkeley CA - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update


Mortar Rock
Mortar Rock - Main West Face
(left to right)
1 V? high face!? 
2 Nats Traverse V8 low (l to r) or Natural Nats V7 all holds/rail - into #6.
3 Nats Crack V0 dirty crack corner.
4 Sunshine V5 sit bulge up right or Sunshine Eliminate V9 direct up left / right of #3.
5 The Brink / Brink of Disaster aka Black Plague V6 face left of #6 or Sun Plague V7 #4 into #5
or Black Sun V6 stand or White Sun V7 sit #6 into #4 or White Plague V7 sit start #6 up into #5.
6 The Ramp V4 stand start featured scoop or V5 sit or V8 sit #9 or Sun Ramp V6 sit #4.
7 Stans Traverse V8 Nats backwards or V9 sit start #9 or Jungle Stans V8/9 from #8+9 stand.
8 Jungle Fever V8 *eliminate - stay right of #6 - or Full Fever V10 sit #9. 
9 New Wave V9 stand or The Kraken V11 low sit start under bulge.
10 Marks Traverse V11 stand start jug same as #11 bust left into #7.
11 Don't Worry Be Snappy V12 jug start up over steep roof/bulge or Snappy Wave V11 #11 into #9 or Snappy Fever V11 #11 into #8.
12 Impossible Traverse V13 same jug start right into #13 - or V!!?? start #2??
13 Impossible Wall V8 stand start or Mission Impossible V9 low stand.
14 Chinese Connection V12 low sit start #13.
15 Egypt Air V9 #13 into high left finish or V13 sit #14.
16 The Odyssey V7 jump start V9 stand or V12 sit.
17 Beached Whale V6 bulge slab up into to face or crack.
18 Bench Crack V1 high dirty crack or The Scoop V4 low left sit.
19 Bench Wall V2 stand or V3 sit classic high face or Bench Arete V4 stand V5 sit.
20 Bench Corner V3 stand or V4 sit or V0/1 far right slab.

Mortar Rock - Sidewalk Boulders
(right to left)
21 The Hand Traverse aka Sidewalk Traverse V1 lip traverse up left.  
22 Pipeline Traverse V5 with foot ledge V6 without - low face traverse (r to l).
24 The Boys Problem V5 sit or Rimshot V3 stand.
23 The Girls Problem V5 sit or V4 stand.
25 Little Half Dome V1 center face upper boulder or V2 traverse.