Friday, November 30, 2012

Mt Tamalpais - Rattlesnake Creek Boulders (Bootjack / Ravine) 2012









PHOTOS: Martin Elzingre on Sammy's Throne Boulder, the newly developed Engine Bloc at the Lower Ravine and the Hobo Boulders at the Upper Ravine.



Bootjack Boulders (aka Intuition Boulders)
Bootjack Boulder (aka Intuition Boulder) [right to left]
1 "Bootjack Arete V2***** stand V3***** sit - right arete FA=CS / V7*** low sit FA=RA/BS
2 "Instinct" V4*** stand V5*** sit - right variation to the more direct classic Intuition FA=CS
3 "Intuition" V4***** stand V5***** sit - the direct classic line up center of steep face! FA=CS
4 "Between the Uprights" V3*** stand V4*** sit - highball left arete between trees FA=KA
5 "Bootjack Traverse" V5**** sit start left traverse low and right into right arete FA=CS / or "!?" V8!? low sit Bootjack Arete then traverse left into Between The Uprights - open project!

Cheech and Choss Boulder  [right to left]
6 V0* short face on far right FA=CS
7 "Cheech Marin" V1*** right stand start to Dave's Not Here FA=CS
8 "Dave's Not Here" V2*** stand start center face then up and right FA=CS / V6*** sit FA=FO
9 "Chong's Bong" V2** stand / V6**? sit start Dave's Not Here traverse up left into left arete FA=CS
10 "Bitches n Gravy" V3**? link up from left arete low sit up right into Dave's Not Here FA=CS
11 "Cheech and Choss Arete" V0*** stand V1*** sit V2*** low sit - left arete FA=CS
12 "Cheech and Choss Traverse" V4*** from left arete low sit high and right into V0 on far right FA=CS / or V!? low traverse project!?


Upper Ravine (aka Hobo Boulders)
? Boulder
13 "?" V4** stand/sit center face FA=KA
14 "Hobo Wreckless" V6** sit left traverse up right along low lip FA=RA/BS

Hobo Boulder
15 "Hobo Boulder" ?
16 "Hobo Boulder" ?

Small Slab
17 slab?


The Ravine
Ravine Boulder [left to right]
18 "Crumble Mumble" V6*** sit start with left hand notch and right hand undercling then go up over short bulge on far left side - V3** stand start FA=CS19 "Mt Tamil Tiger Turd" V8*** low sit start to #1 - same start as Bonum Vitae on low rail
FA = Max Zolotukhin 2012

20 "Locked Keys" V4** stand start center roof between #1 and #3 FA=CS / V!? sit start project!?
21 "Wicked" V9**** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low left side) same as #4 up right before turning left at the stand start then passing a w-shaped Vulcan grip then up left to top - stand start V4**** FA = Brett Shingu 2012
22 "Bonum Vitae" V7***** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then crank past sloper rail moves angling up right into stand start crack top out - stand start V1*** 
FA = Reid Augustino 2012
23 "White Knuckles" V7**** mid sit start on right hand slot pocket and low left hand undercling then angle up left into Wicked FA=CS / or V8***? from the low sit start (often over/under water or on branches) - open project!
24 "Tender Vittles" V5*** low sit start then up left into Bonum Vitae stand start or V2*** left mid sit start and go up into the stand start of Bonum Vitae FA=CS
25 V!? project - low sit start White Knuckles/Tender Vittles (on far right) then traverse down left :-/ across Bonum Vitae into the low sit start of Mt Tamil Tiger Turd (on far left) to finish!?
scrunchy and lame butt hard!!


Lower Ravine  {wet in winter}
Sammy's Throne Boulder (right to left)
26 V!? stand start right face direct? / V!? sit project! 
27 "Sammy's Throne" V5/6**** stand start left hand arete/face FA=KA/SB / V!? sit project!
28 "Centerline" V4**** low sit V3**** sit V2*** stand right hand arete/face FA=CS
29 V1/2** stand start center face FA=KA
30 "Flowmax" V4*** low sit V3*** low stand FA=CS

Crack Rock
31 high crack(s)!?
32 ?

The Engine Bloc [left to right]
33 "Internal Combustion" V1** stand start steep left face FA=CS or V!? low stand or sit project!
34 "Diesel Arete" V6*** sit V3** mid stand FA=CS
35 ? V? sit Diesel Arete then traverse right into short V0 face on far right (needs cleaning) project!



Mt Tam - Lower Ravine Bouldering 2012  YOUTUBE


All these areas and more will be covered in future editions of;  
Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO!




Friday, November 2, 2012

Mt Tam Bouldering - Fall 2012







 



!!New Mt Tam Bouldering - Fall 2012 News Flash!!

"The Project" aka Bay View Wall Project on Marin County's Mount Tamalpais was one of the last obvious yet undone, roadside boulder problem test-pieces in the North Bay. Solved on October 30, 2012 by Mark Heal after he had worked it prior. The day he did it he warmed up by flashing "Crumble Mumble" (V6) and "Bonum Vitae" (V7) then sending "Wicked" (V9) 2nd try at the newly developed Ravine. The Bay View Wall Project is now "Tiny Pinches" V11/12 - first ascent = Mark Heal.

The same day I did a fun new link-up on The Ravine Boulder that goes from a sit start on the far right up into the crux and the top out of Wicked. "White Knuckles" (V7) - first ascent = Chris Summit.

About a month earlier in 2012 Max Zolotukhin did first ascent of a great problem to the right of the Bay View Wall Project calling it "Bay View Crimp" V11/12. Since then a crux hold has broken making the problem slightly harder. Mark repeated that problem the day he did Tiny Pinches confirming both at about V11/12. Whether the grades stand or they go up or down a bit Mt Tam is now, officially on the map as one of the best north bay bouldering areas with a full range of grades and styles of bouldering. The views aren't bad either :)


Tam Bouldering - Fall 2012  YOUTUBE


Sunday, September 16, 2012

Mammoth Bouldering

When it's too hot for bouldering around Bishop then check out Mammoth Bouldering by Charlie Barrett for some of the best High Sierra bouldering;  http://mammothboulderingguidebook.com/ 



Some more info for bouldering in the Mammoth area at Clark Canyon on my blog;
http://summitorplummet.blogspot.com/2011/09/clark-canyon-bouldering.html

and more info about Mammoth Bouldering on DeadpointMagazine.com;
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-gear/view/new-guidebook-mammoth-bouldering




Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Mt Tamalpais - The Ravine Boulder



    "Crumble Mumble" FA


            Reid Augustino does a lap on his classic
            "Bonum Vitae"


Some of the newest and possibly some of the last great roadside problems to be done on Tam, as well as some of the hardest problems so far are Reid Augustino’s “Bonum Vitae” (V7) and his friend Brett Shingu’s “Wicked” (V9). Both were just done in 2012 in the creek/ravine below the Bootjack Boulders. They are right off Panorama below one of the hairpins about a half mile before (east of) the Bootjack Picnic Area when coming up from US101.

These problems are on less than perfect rock that has some loose and hollow holds. The creek level also rises up under most of the boulder from fall through spring depending on yearly water levels. The Bootjack Boulders are not affected by the creek - they are found just up the hill from The Ravine, across the rd, above the hairpin turn, left (west) of the creek. Bootjack has the classics "Intuition" (V4 stand V5 sit) and it's right variation "Instinct" as well as the ass kicking good fun "Bootjack Arete" (V2 stand V7 low sit) on the Bootjack Boulder.  On the adjacent Cheech and Choss Boulder there's the slightly chossy but fun "Dave's Not Here" (V2 stand V6 sit) and the long new "Cheech and Choss Traverse" (V4) as well as a few other good moderates.

Hiking uphill to the right of Bootjack and left of the creek you will find a new problem called "Hobo Wreckless" (V6 sit low traverse lip) and an older V4 up problem both on the boulder next to the boulder with a hobo shelter built against. This new/old area is now being called The Upper Ravine and it has potential for a few more new low-balls.  It will be small but fun when complete as well as a nice addition to the rest of The Ravine areas. Bootjacks have about 5 other good problems in the V1-V7 range and also potential for a few more new link-ups or low-balls. Overall The Ravine areas (Bootjack, Upper, Main and Lower Ravines) have about 35 mostly new problems from about V0-V9! Look for all the new problems in the next edition of Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO due out in a few years - but for now this blog is the best source of info :) The other bouldering areas are higher up the mountain and offer many more classics on generally better rock along with the world class views Tam is known for. Kenny Ariza, Elliot Carlsen and myself have developed most of the new stuff but a few problems had been established for many years.
 
>>NEWS FLASH!! I just heard through the grapevine (Sendage.com) that super strong Bay Area local rock star Natasha Barnes just repeated both of the new problems at The Ravine. I also read on her blog that Max Zolotukhin did the low sit start to the original problem "Crumble Mumble" (V6) calling it "Mount Tamil Tiger Turd" (V8)<<


The Ravine Boulder (left to right)
{1-5 *star}

>1 "Crumble Mumble" V6** sit start with left hand notch and right hand undercling then go up over short bulge on far left side - V3** stand start.
FA = Chris Summit 2008

or "Mount Tamil Tiger Turd" V8** low sit start to #1 - same start as Bonum Vitae on low rail.
FA = Max Zolotukhin 2012

>2  "Locked Keys" V4** stand start center roof between #1 and #3 - sit start?!
FA = Chris Summit 2012

>3 "Wicked" V9*** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low left side) same as #4 up right before turning left at the stand start then passing a w-shaped Vulcan grip then up left to top - stand start V4***
FA = Brett Shingu 2012

>4 "Bonum Vitae" V7*** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then crank past sloper rail moves angling up right into stand start crack top out - stand start V1***
FA = Reid Augustino 2012

>5 "White Knuckles" V7*** mid sit start (same as Tender Vittles) on good right hand slot pocket and low left hand undercling then angle up left into Wicked or V8**? from the low sit start (in winter-spring it is often over/under water - stacking logs/branches helps) - or
"Tender Vittles" V2** mid sit start and go up into the stand start of Bonum Vitae or V5** low sit start (often under/over water in winter-spring) then up left into stand start of Bonum Vitae.
FA = Chris Summit 2012


    The Ravine Boulder



*Get more info on Mt Tam Bouldering in Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering and get more cragging info for Tam in Bay Area Top Ropes - all by SUPERTOPO.

Mt Tam Bouldering Fall 2012 - YOUTUBE 

"Wicked" V9 FA The Ravine - YOUTUBE

Sunday, August 5, 2012

The Swamp Meadow Boulders

                       The Swamp Meadow - PHOTO: Richard Newton          



The Swamp Meadow Boulders
Blue Lakes, Tahoe, CA.

I've been healing an injured finger for the last couple months from crimping and I've just started pulling on jugs again. This is my first day back pushing myself a bit on real stone so I decided to find some new boulders with first ascents and go at it! The best of them was "Snake Eyes" V4 FA which felt a bit harder than it should have but it was totally worth it. These problems may not be that hard but they are on rare pocketed granite right off the side of the road in a gorgeous setting :)

1 "Snake Eyes" V4 stand start on side by side pockets and go up right over sloper lip.
2 "Swamp Pockets" V2 sit start left bulge/face with cool pockets - VB stand start.
3 "Swamp Face" V0 stand V1 sit - center of juggy face - good warmup.
4 "Swamp Traverse" V4 start on far right and traverse left into #3 to finish. (or - same start then up?)
5 VB easy way up/downclimb.
6 "Swamp Crack" VB
7 "Swamped" V2 stand start arete.
8 Crack!?
9 VB small boulder with jugs.
10 Arete!?
11 Slab face left of Swamp Crack with diagonal undercling?
12 Start left of Snake Eyes?


Swamp Meadow Boulders HD Video - YOUTUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYi8irTdx3w&list=UUvX88R-kTddUoFjC2Ob902w&index=1&feature=plcp

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Rock Climbing Finger Injuries

Photo = Adventuredoc.net



I've been healing an injured finger from crimping lately and I just wanted to share some of my findings on treatment and recovery that are helping me heal up and get back on the rocks. Mainly don't forget to stay hydrated, eat a good diet and stay positive of course. Warm up well and specifically for any moves that are unique to your current climbing regimen - if you are going to be crimping hard then warm up on easier crimps or if you will be pulling on small pockets then warm up on large to medium size pockets. Even train on a hang-board, system wall or rock gym a few days prior to cranking on the stone if needed.



These articles go into more detail;


RICE vs MEAT;
http://www.caringmedical.com/symptoms/meatvsrice.asp

http://www.thesportsphysiotherapist.com/rice-or-meat-protocol-for-acute-ligament-sprain-treatment/



Online Climbing Coach - Dave MacLeod;
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/11/avoiding-pulley-injuries-hard-and-easy.html

http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/a2-pulley-injuries-review-re-posted.html



GOOD / BAD of finger taping;
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/FingerTaping.htm

http://adventuredoc.net/2008/12/19/rock-climbing-finger-taping-and-injury/


Friday, June 1, 2012



                                                                  Highway 88 (CA88)



Some South Lake Tahoe Bouldering - Spring 2012;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myeOMr8H93w&list=UUvX88R-kTddUoFjC2Ob902w&index=2&feature=plcp

Friday, April 20, 2012

Bummer Boulders


Bummer Boulders - part 1

These are the boulders along the ridge off CA1 on the trail down to the classic Bay Area sport climbing test-pieces Endless Bummer (5.13b) and Surf Safari (5.13d/14a). I did the main problem here (semi highball V1/2ish?) about 15 or more years ago and I think I remember hearing from some locals that it might have been done before me. If it had it had been done it was by Scott Frye and friends while developing the Endless Bummer crag. Maybe a few others did it but probably just from a stand start if at all since it was very dirty when I found it. It is not the best problem due to some crumbly/hollow holds low down and the poison oak covered landing, but, it is pretty high, has a cool hueco in the middle and a great view. I went back a few years after I did the stand start and did the sit, which basicly adds a grade but takes off a star because of the hollow holds. The whole problem always needed a good cleaning but was barely worth it. There is also a lot of poison oak at the base and a rocky landing so no local boulderers ever seemed to care enough about it to clean it off or landscape the landing.

Nowadays, I am all about new bouldering so I went back to check it out again and found potential for some new problems - about 10-12 problems total. 4-18-12 - I finished cleaning the original problem and also totally cleaned most of the main face. It is now ready for a few more problems to be added. The smaller boulder next to it could have a few problems as well. If you get poison oak very bad at all then you don't want to boulder here. Otherwise it is at least worth a quick stop sometime on the way to or from Stinson or Mickey's Beach bouldering areas.


*List of problems so far (right to left):
1 "Main Course" V1/2 stand V2/3 sit (original/main line)
2 "Horizon" V2/3 stand V!? sit
3 "Thundercling" V2/3 stand V!? sit

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

TOPO SECRET Sonoma County Schist Classics on "The Slither Boulder" aka "The Big Boy"


Giovanni "G" Traversi does a lap on "Slither" V7
{video screen shot from his Coastal Trip vid}

Coastal Trip
"Stigmata" V11 2nd Ascent! + "Slither" V7 as well as the nearby Fort Ross classic "Relentless" (or/aka "Grand Finale"?) V10 - Giovanni Traversi
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=100847180038442


"Adrift" V13 First Ascent
by Giovanni Traversi - The hardest problem done yet in Sonoma County!!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=127491947373965



Slither Boulder

First discovered for bouldering by Richie Esquibel and I about 1997-ish its quality is impeccable. It has both of the most difficult boulder problems in Sonoma County and one of the best, steep problems in Nor Cal, "Slither". Unfortunately, it is deep in Private Property and requires someone with permission to access - don't fret some locals have permission! The Slither Boulder (aka Stigmata Boulder) is also known as "The Big Boy" by geologists studying local schist. The classics are;

>"Big Boy"
V2/3 stand start on ledge on far left {FA=Chris Summit/Richie Esquibel - 1997/1998?} - sit start was V6/7 {FA=Mike Papciak - 1998/1999} but a hold broke and now its V!?

>"Middle Man" V6 stand start between the far left problem and the stand start for Slither and bust a few tough moves up into the finish of Slither {FA=Ryan Tolentino - 1999/2000?}

>"?" V!?? PROJECT!! not even sure this is possible :-/ but maybe!!?
soo sick.

>"Slither" V7 same sit start on jug rail as Stigmata and Adrift then traverse the rail up left out the steep roof into high top out! - or V5 stand start on sculpted jug off pointy rock. (V6 sit to lip then drop)
{FA=Chris Summit - 1997/1998?}

>"Medusa" V6 stand start off rock on good in-cut edge above rail on Slither and go up high face into same top out as Stigmata. {FA=Charlie Barrett - 1998/1999?}

>"The Hand of Perseus" V12 stand start on the center rail of Slither and move up past a hard right hand sloper lump into Medusa {FA=Carlo Traversi - Thanksgiving Day 2013} -or- V13? add the sit start from Slither into Hand of Perseus - PROJECT!

>"Stigmata" V11 same sit start on jug rail as Slither and Adrift then do a few tick tack moves up into the stand start (V10/11 stand?) and the crux out left into the same high top out as Medusa!
{FA=Kevin Jorgeson - 2003/2004? - cleaned/named by Richie Esquibel}

>"Adrift" V13 same sit start on jug rail as Slither and Stigmata then do the same tick tack moves as the start of Stigmata but instead of going out left like Stigmata go straight up into the crux dyno!
{FA=Giovanni Traversi - 2012}

>"?" V6/7 {FA=Sean Brady - 2000/2001?} -or- Afro Samurai V7/8 {FA=Giovanni Traversi - 2013}


>"??" V2-V6 short boulder with 3-4 problems - to the right of Stigmata/Adrift. {FA=?? 199?}

Alton Richardson 2012 Demo Reel

Featuring clips of the Bay Area classic "Dreams of White Porsches" 5.13b Mickey's Beach, Marin County, CA and my very own local classic "Judge Dredd" 5.13b Sea Crag, Sonoma County, CA.

http://vimeo.com/34980601

Monday, March 19, 2012

More New Sugarloaf Ridge boulder problems! {behind Canyon Trail Boulder}


Shea Steckel on a new project at Sugarloaf Ridge!

Four Ferns (V6/7/8? FA!);
http://vimeo.com/38786241

Four Ferns - full length;
http://vimeo.com/38748889

"Four Ferns" is one of the toughest problems at The Loaf so far - thank you Zacharias Miller!


The Lush Ferns video has my new problem next to Four Ferns called "Lush Ferns" (V3/4) and a few other good problems in the area;
Lush Ferns

Here is the latest local Loaf and Mayacamas bouldering action;
Four Ferns - Part 2


All the info on all the problems at The Loaf so far;
summitorplummet.blogspot.com/sugarloaf-ridge-bouldering-reborn