Friday, April 3, 2015

New Castle Zone FA's!

Sunnyvale Mountain + Biddles FA's 3/15!
***** = world classic / * = barely worthy

Drunk as a Skunk Boulder
original problems - l to r:
1 Skalawag V1/2*** - fa: md
2 Skalawag Traverse V2/3*** opposite the classic Poop Chute PirateV2/3**** - fa: md
3 Skalawag Mantle V3/4**  - fa: md
4 V3/4** short sit scoop pockets left side - fa=rs?
5 V1/2** crack corner low start - fa=rs?
6 Tall Bastard V8/9**** tough and possibly reachy left arete - fa: a?
7 V5/6/7/8/9!? traverse from Drunk as a Skunk left around Tall Bastard into V1/2/#5 corner - fa=!?
8 Drunk as a Skunk V6**** start in hueco and crimp and crawl up over bulge - fa: rs
9 V1/2*** pull over bulge on far right side - fa=cb?
10 V2**** lip traverse far right side - fa: rs/md

new fa's as of 3/15:
11 Funky Monkey V2/3*** sit or VB/0 stand - fa=cs
12 Drunk Monkey V3/4*** Drunk sit into Monkey top - fa=cs
13 Tall Drunk Monkey** V4/5 Tall Bastard left arete sit into Funky Monkey - fa=cs
14 Mantonian V3/4*** direct mantle stand - fa=jh
15 Mantonian Traverse? V4/5*** left sit into mantle - fa=cb
16 Newtonian Traverse V6/7** traverse low from #6 on far left to far right into V2/#10 - fa=cs
17 Lil Bastard V2/3* sit small boulder next to Drunk Skunk Boulder - fa=cb


*also some random new Biddles fa's as of 3/15:
18 Shake Hands With Beef V6/7/8***!? left low stand or low left sit trav into V9/10/11!? - fa=gzm
19 Blue Steel V6/7***** sit start Biddles Platinum then angle up right into Biddles Steel - fa=md
20 Twist and Shout V5*** sit start to Flap Your Wings - fa=jh
21 Flap Your Wings V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, high left top out - fa=jh
22 Flapper V4*** l hand crack, r hand mini hueco, dyno, right top out - fa=cs
23 Backstabber Arete Sit V6/7**** - fa=gzm
24 V6/7***? Copperhead into Zinc link-up - fa=md
25 ?
















Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Bay Area Bouldering eBook update 2015/16!


Check out the newly updated 2015/16 eBook edition of Bay Area Bouldering by SuperTopo:

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/bayareaboulder.html



Bay Area Bouldering eBook update 2015/16 stats:

Over 75 new problems from VB to V12 and 3 new areas.

All photo captions are updated to be more descriptive and maybe even funny now.

More photographer credit + photographer website links.

Fixed route descriptions and directions, added more mile marker info to help find parking and trailheads along highways.

More first ascent credit for some of the classics.

New/updated/researched names and history.

Updated dining and amenities.

New color photos!





Darren "Splitclimber" Wiemeyer - Sugarloaf Ridge

Frankie Ocasio - Mickeys Beach

Giovanni Traversi - Mendo

Gavin Honda - Aquarian Valley
Photo: Robbie Temmerman 

Valentine Cullen - Granite Creek

Kevin Jorgeson - Mickeys Beach

Mark Heal - Mt Tam

Sarah McKay - Fort Ross
Photo: McKay Collection 

Shawn Rogers - Super Slab

Travis Lombardo - Mendo
Photo: Mike Shoys mikeshoys.com