Friday, November 30, 2012
Mt Tamalpais - Rattlesnake Creek Boulders (Bootjack / Ravine) 2012
PHOTOS: Martin Elzingre on Sammy's Throne Boulder, the newly developed Engine Bloc at the Lower Ravine and the Hobo Boulders at the Upper Ravine.
Bootjack Boulders (aka Intuition Boulders)
Bootjack Boulder (aka Intuition Boulder) [right to left]
1 "Bootjack Arete V2***** stand V3***** sit - right arete FA=CS / V7*** low sit FA=RA/BS
2 "Instinct" V4*** stand V5*** sit - right variation to the more direct classic Intuition FA=CS
3 "Intuition" V4***** stand V5***** sit - the direct classic line up center of steep face! FA=CS
4 "Between the Uprights" V3*** stand V4*** sit - highball left arete between trees FA=KA
5 "Bootjack Traverse" V5**** sit start left traverse low and right into right arete FA=CS / or "!?" V8!? low sit Bootjack Arete then traverse left into Between The Uprights - open project!
Cheech and Choss Boulder [right to left]
6 V0* short face on far right FA=CS
7 "Cheech Marin" V1*** right stand start to Dave's Not Here FA=CS
8 "Dave's Not Here" V2*** stand start center face then up and right FA=CS / V6*** sit FA=FO
9 "Chong's Bong" V2** stand / V6**? sit start Dave's Not Here traverse up left into left arete FA=CS
10 "Bitches n Gravy" V3**? link up from left arete low sit up right into Dave's Not Here FA=CS
11 "Cheech and Choss Arete" V0*** stand V1*** sit V2*** low sit - left arete FA=CS
12 "Cheech and Choss Traverse" V4*** from left arete low sit high and right into V0 on far right FA=CS / or V!? low traverse project!?
Upper Ravine (aka Hobo Boulders)
? Boulder
13 "?" V4** stand/sit center face FA=KA
14 "Hobo Wreckless" V6** sit left traverse up right along low lip FA=RA/BS
Hobo Boulder
15 "Hobo Boulder" ?
16 "Hobo Boulder" ?
Small Slab
17 slab?
The Ravine
Ravine Boulder [left to right]
18 "Crumble Mumble" V6*** sit start with left hand notch and right hand undercling then go up over short bulge on far left side - V3** stand start FA=CS19 "Mt Tamil Tiger Turd" V8*** low sit start to #1 - same start as Bonum Vitae on low rail
FA = Max Zolotukhin 2012
20 "Locked Keys" V4** stand start center roof between #1 and #3 FA=CS / V!? sit start project!?
21 "Wicked" V9**** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low left side) same as #4 up right before turning left at the stand start then passing a w-shaped Vulcan grip then up left to top - stand start V4**** FA = Brett Shingu 2012
22 "Bonum Vitae" V7***** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then crank past sloper rail moves angling up right into stand start crack top out - stand start V1***
FA = Reid Augustino 2012
23 "White Knuckles" V7**** mid sit start on right hand slot pocket and low left hand undercling then angle up left into Wicked FA=CS / or V8***? from the low sit start (often over/under water or on branches) - open project!
24 "Tender Vittles" V5*** low sit start then up left into Bonum Vitae stand start or V2*** left mid sit start and go up into the stand start of Bonum Vitae FA=CS
25 V!? project - low sit start White Knuckles/Tender Vittles (on far right) then traverse down left :-/ across Bonum Vitae into the low sit start of Mt Tamil Tiger Turd (on far left) to finish!?
scrunchy and lame butt hard!!
Lower Ravine {wet in winter}
Sammy's Throne Boulder (right to left)
26 V!? stand start right face direct? / V!? sit project!
27 "Sammy's Throne" V5/6**** stand start left hand arete/face FA=KA/SB / V!? sit project!
28 "Centerline" V4**** low sit V3**** sit V2*** stand right hand arete/face FA=CS
29 V1/2** stand start center face FA=KA
30 "Flowmax" V4*** low sit V3*** low stand FA=CS
Crack Rock
31 high crack(s)!?
32 ?
The Engine Bloc [left to right]
33 "Internal Combustion" V1** stand start steep left face FA=CS or V!? low stand or sit project!
34 "Diesel Arete" V6*** sit V3** mid stand FA=CS
35 ? V? sit Diesel Arete then traverse right into short V0 face on far right (needs cleaning) project!
Mt Tam - Lower Ravine Bouldering 2012 YOUTUBE
All these areas and more will be covered in future editions of;
Bay Area Bouldering by SUPERTOPO!
Friday, November 2, 2012
Mt Tam Bouldering - Fall 2012
"The Project" aka Bay View Wall Project on Marin County's Mount Tamalpais was one of the last obvious yet undone, roadside boulder problem test-pieces in the North Bay. Solved on October 30, 2012 by Mark Heal after he had worked it prior. The day he did it he warmed up by flashing "Crumble Mumble" (V6) and "Bonum Vitae" (V7) then sending "Wicked" (V9) 2nd try at the newly developed Ravine. The Bay View Wall Project is now "Tiny Pinches" V11/12 - first ascent = Mark Heal.
The same day I did a fun new link-up on The Ravine Boulder that goes from a sit start on the far right up into the crux and the top out of Wicked. "White Knuckles" (V7) - first ascent = Chris Summit.
About a month earlier in 2012 Max Zolotukhin did first ascent of a great problem to the right of the Bay View Wall Project calling it "Bay View Crimp" V11/12. Since then a crux hold has broken making the problem slightly harder. Mark repeated that problem the day he did Tiny Pinches confirming both at about V11/12. Whether the grades stand or they go up or down a bit Mt Tam is now, officially on the map as one of the best north bay bouldering areas with a full range of grades and styles of bouldering. The views aren't bad either :)
Tam Bouldering - Fall 2012 YOUTUBE
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