Saturday, September 7, 2013

Dutch Bill Boulder





Dutch Bill Boulder
NO DIRECTIONS - word of mouth only - and once you get there DO NOT park anywhere near the driveway with the gate across from the trailhead (what kind of fool would do that anyways:)

15 main lines - about 35+ problems total counting link ups, variations, stand starts and projects.
{0 to 5***** star quality rating}
_____________________________________________________________________________________
0 "Cave Spider Stand" V1/2*** stand start on big horizontal rail above roof and top out onto ledge with big jug and jump/drop off or top out high VB (5.6R) slab! - FA=TL

1 "Cave Spider" V3/4***** low sit start in center of cave up left past big rail into top out ~ path of least resistance ~ Mega Classic!! - FA=TL
-- or left sit #10 V4/5*** -- or right sit #5 V5/6***

2 "Cave Spider Direct" V5/6**** low sit start Cave Spider and go direct out roof then traverse left along lip a few moves into #1 to top out (original way) FA=TL or "Cave Spider Directer" V6**** go even more direct and straight up to top out. FA=CS
-- or low left sit #10 V6*** -- or low right sit #5 V6/7***

3 "Dutch Belly" V7/8*** stand start on left hand crimp and right hand slope and bust a move up left or right hand then traverse up left into #1 to top out (original way) or go direct straight up or up right into the top of #12 -- or V8**** low stand -- or V8/9**** sit -- or "Buddhas Underbelly" V9**** link up variation - FA=RT/TT/SB?

4 "The Dutchie" V3/4*** high stand start -- or "Dutch Rutter" V6/7*** low start on underclings then reach up left and top out on The Dutchie - FA=CS(V3/4) / FA=AC(V6/7)
-- or "Cave Dutchie" V6/7** sit #1 then traverse right along lip into #4 top out FA=CS(V6/7) -- or V4 /5* from rail stand start into #4 -- or "Grope Booth" V7** do #2 into the traverse into #4 FA=SB(V7)

5 "Long Bottom" V6*** sit start then up right or up left -- or V3/4** stand start up into right top out -- or V4/5** stand start up into left top out - FA=TL (original right top out) - FA=SB (left top out)
-- or PROJECT V7/8? start #10 then traverse right into the sit or low stand of #5 to top out.

6  "?" /+ "Dutch Diamond" V2/3/4?? left or right bulge face stand start - or sit !? - FA=TL/JM ?
-- or PROJECT V6/7/8? start #10 then traverse right into either variation of #6 to top out.

7 "Warm Up Cool Down" V0** sit start at horizontal rail and move right and up into VB* - FA=CS

8 "Riding The Rails" V6**** do the low sit to #1 up to the big rail then traverse left to the end of last main rail -- or V4*** stand start same as #0 -- or low sit start #10 V6/7** - FA=RT/TL
-- or stand start from the far left rail and traverse to the right into either #0 to top out V6/7** - or PROJECT V7/8? traverse farther right along the lip into #4? - or PROJECT V8/9+!? traverse down and all the way around into #7 to end maybe?
-- or "The Dirty Dutchman" V10*** sit start #12 into #8 - FA=GT

9 "Sit Down and Shut Up" V5/6** from low left #10 sit traverse low and right up into #7 - FA=CS

10 "Banana Thug" V4/5*** sit at far left side of cave and go up past crack over rock up right into #0
-- or V5/6*** low sit from #1 - FA=TL
-- or "Long Thug" V6/7** sit start #5 then traverse left into #10 and top it out - FA=CS
-- or PROJECT V7/8? do Long Thug but keep traversing the rails to the far left same as #8?

11 "Fox Trot" V6** sit #10 then traverse low and right into #9 - FA=CS

12 "Pass The Dutchie" V10***** sit #10 then traverse low and right into #3 sit then top out #4 - FA=GT

13 V3/4?** low stand start from flat edge up left - FA=TL?

14 V4/5?** low stand start from flat edge up right - FA=TL?

15 "Flying Dutchman" V11**** low sit start into #13 (or #14?) - FA=GT

Main First Ascentionists:
TL Travis Lombardo
RT Ryan Tolentino
GT Giovanni Traversi
CS Chris Summit -me :)

Monday, September 2, 2013

Mammoth Bouldering show!!! RIM Club - Tue Sep 3 2013


Hartley Springs Bouldering Trip 2013  


This place is cool! Too bad we had to drive around the Rim Fire and it hailed half the time but we had some good fun anyway. It was also just good to go see Chuck B and one of his new Mammoth Bouldering areas!

 *Check out the new Mammoth Bouldering guidebook by Charlie Barrett
@chessler books
http://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/12586-mammoth-bouldering-guidebook-california-charlie-barrett-2012-1st-edition.asp