Monday, April 24, 2017

Cougar Crag

Secret Santa Rosa local crag ~ word of mouth only :)
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic

1 slab?
2 ?
3 ?
4 hand crack?
5 ?
6 ?
7 "Cougartown" V3/4 FA=CS
8 ?
9 "Cat Woman" V1/2 FA=M
10 "Cat Woman Traverse"?
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 V2/3 FA=CS
16 high compression prow!?
17 ?
18 "Bat Wing" V1 right arete. FA=CS
19 "Bat Mantle" V4/5 traverse into mantle. FA=ST
20 "Bat Mantle Traverse" V4/5 traverse left to right. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 ?

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Knoxville, Lake County CA 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic



The Dead Forest
The Billboard
left to right:
1 Billy Jack V4/5**** steep far left face/arete or V5/6*** from #4 no hands corner start. FA=CS
2 Billy Jack Traverse V6/7** main face traverse #7 left into #1. FA=CS
3 direct left face!?
4 Billboard Crack V0R**** highball crack/corner. FA=CS
5 billboard crack direct?
6 billboard diagonal crack?
7 Billboard Traverse V2/3*** traverse main face usually right to left to no hands corner at base of #4 or V4/5 low. FA=CS
8 main face 1 bolt TR/highball project!
9 sharp broken right arete TR??
10 Hillbilly Traverse V2/3** start at arete and traverse up right into Hillbilly V1/2 FA=CS

Billabong Boulder
11 VB* easy way up/down.
12 V0** FA=CS
13 V0** FA=CS
14 Sumpn Easy V1*** FA=CS
15 Billabong V1/2*** FA=CS
16 V2/3** FA=CS
17 Lil Sumpn Sumpn V4*** traverse low left to right. FA=CS
18 Billabong Traverse V4*** traverse right to left. FA=CS
19 Fillabong?
20 ?

The Obshidian Spearhead Boulder
1 Obshidian Arete V2 left arete/lip traverse. FA=RS?
2 Speartip Face V3 FA=RS/CS?
3 right arete sit?
4 ?
5 ?

Billboard Creek
1 V1/2** FA=CS
2 V2/3** FA=CS
3 V4/5** FA=CS
4 ?
5 ?

Dead Forest
uphill from bottom to top:
1 V2/3/4? prow - above Billboard Creek by itself. FA=RS
2 ?
3 Deadpoint V1/2 dyno! FA=CS sit(s)!?
4 ?
5 ?
6 ? V0** scenic but mini sized low start on pockets to flat lip mantle - up/downclimb. FA=SL
7 The Snakehead Traverse V0*** 360 left to right or V1*** right to left. FA=SL
8 The Snakehead VB/0*** high slab face - or V0** right sit or V1*** left sit. FA=CS
9 Snake Pit V0/1** sit up left juggy hand and foot rails FA=CS - or V1**R top out direct!?
10 Cobra Kai V?R!? highballish! FA=!?
11 Dead Head?
12 VB/0*** FA=CS/EB
13 VB/0*** FA=EB/CS
14 ?
15 Life After Death V1/2**** center right diagonal slots to jug lip top out! - or Burnout After Death V2/3*** traverse right to left up into #15. FA=CS
16 Live After Death V!? left/center face!? FA=!?
17 Burnout Traverse V1/2**** left to right crack rail into #19. FA=SR
18 Burnout Direct V2/3** upper traverse into arete - or Burnout Direct Sit V3/4** direct low sit up into V2/3 - or Burnout Face Direct V4/5*** face left of arete to hueco or direct to top - V5*** sit. FA=CS
19 Burnout VB/0*** slab face. FA=CS/EB
14 ?
15 ?
16 ? V0/1*** low sit to face top out left or same as #17. FA=SL
17 Deadbeat Arete V2/3**** sit arete up left into jug face top out. FA-CS
18 Dead Souls V6**** right side of steep arete to jug lip. FA=CS
19 Deadbeat V4/5**** stand steep crack/seam FA=CS - or low start V7/8/9!?
20 Deadbeat Crack V0/1*** sit right diagonal crack. FA=CS
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 Mongo Boulder!?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?


The Bushwhack  Boulders
1 V4/5**** FA=CS
2 V5/6**** FA=CB
3 V6*** FA=CS
4 V1/2*** FA=CS
5 V0/1*** FA=CS
6 VB/0*** FA=CS
7 V2/3/4**? FA=CS
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20


Ecology Rocks aka Skinny Dip Rocks
1 V0*** FA=CS
2 V1**** FA=EB
3 VB/0*** FA=EB
4 V1/2*** or V2/3** FA=EB/CS
5 V1*** FA=CS
6 V0/1*** FA=CS
7 V3** FA=CS
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

??
??

??
??

??
??

Knoxville
The Devilshead
1 The Devils Buttcrack V0/1 stand or V1/2 sit FA=CS
2 Buttface V2/3 right of the Buttcrack FA=CS
3 left of buttcrack?
4 traverse?
5 The Devilshead V2 sit V1 stand - main face of spire over flat rock FA=CS
6 Devilshead Direct V3R highball side of spire FA=RT
7 Devilish V2/3 main face of lower boulder FA=CS
8 Devilish Traverse traverse lower boulder V3/4 FA=CS
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Point - Gunshot Rock
1 VB*** up/down FA=CS
3 V0/1** FA=CS
4 V1/2/3** traverse FA=CS
5 V0/1R arete FA=RT
6 V0R crack FA=RT
7 ??
8 ??
9 ??
10 ??

Bullet Point - Bullet Boulder
right to left:
1 Bite the Bullet V1** face. FA=CS
2 Siriji's Traverse V2*** slab/face - left arete to right arete. FA=SL
3 Siriji's Traverse Extension V3** start left arete traverse up right into #1 V1 face. FA=CS
4 ? left face/arete?
5 V1 direct high face. FA=AC
6 ? right arete?
7 Special Edition V4*** sit face/seam arete to sloper lip traverse left into #10 top. FA=CS
8 Limited Addition V5*** sit seam no arete traverse left top out direct. (~low sit!?) FA=AC
9 Magic Bullet V5*** low right hand undercling stand start. (~low stand!?) FA=CS
10 Flower Gun V4**** sit start compression edges over sloper lip ~ mini classic! FA=CS
11 ??
12 ??
13 VB/0* left mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=CS
14 VB/0* right mini sit left of Bullet Boulder. FA=AC
15 ??




The latest pics at Bullet Point 2017:
Sirijis Traverse

Flower Gun

Magic Bullet




Lake County Bouldering Vids;
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4tJm8CpHuF5A3TN9BbiLtNSBNGXyY3ts






Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Top 15 Boulder Problems in the Bay Area - Spring 2017

*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic


"Grand Finale" (aka "Relentless"V10***** low sit start ("Living A Dream" V6***** stand or "Livin La Vida Loca" V8**** original sit start - Fort Ross -- FA: V6 Marcos Nunez/Richie Esquibel, V8 Chris Summit/Russ Bobzien, V10 Ryan Tolentino.

"Fort Rossta" V6***** sit start (V4/5***** stand) - Fort Ross or "Living a Nightmare" V7**** (V5/6**** stand )-- FA: V4/5 Marcos Nunez, V6 Richie Esquibel/Chris Summit?, V5/6 Jim Thornburg, V7 Chris Summit

"Eco Terrorist" V10***** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Sharma

"Groundation" V7**** - Castle Rock -- FA: Chris Summit?

"Yabo Roof" V5**** - Castle Rock -- FA: John Yablonski

"The Classic" V3***** stand (V4**** sit start) - Castle Rock -- FA: Bruce Morris?

"Watercourse" V0/1R**** - Berkeley -- FA: John Sherman? 

"Nat's Traverse" V8***** traverse low or V6/7**** traverse high/all holds - Berkeley -- FA: Nat Smale

"Scotts Arete" V5**** stand start (V6**** sit) - Berkeley -- FA: Scott Frye

"Bucket Prow" V0R***** juggy highball/TRBerkeley -- FA: Sierra Club?

"Hellspawn" V7***** sit start  or "Hell Awaits" V4**** stand (V8**** low sit) - Putah Creek -- FA: V4 + V7 Chris Summit, V8 Charlie Barrett

"Mother Nature" V2**** stand start (V3/4**** sit) - Nut Tree -- FA: Chris Summit

"Pelican Arete" V0/1R***** clean highball/TR - Sunset Boulders -- FA: Jordi Morgan?

"Little Wing" V9**** sit - Mickey's Beach -- FA: Russ Bobzien

"The Flake" V1**** stand (V2*** sit) - Ring Mt -- FA: Russ Bobzien






A few of these I could swap out with so many other equally classic problems but for now these are the best IMO. These are also only the legit publicly accessible ~half of all classics found in the Bay Area.