Friday, February 17, 2023

Wine Country Bouldering @GunksApps

1st edition - January 2023

9 main areas / 333+ boulder problems / VB-V12


Coastal Bouldering Areas — 150+ problems

Sonoma Coast ~150+


Inland Bouldering Areas — 150+ problems

Mayacamas ~100+ problems

Lake & Mendocino Counties ~50+ problems


GPS Navigation, color-coded topos,

color maps + action & scenery photos, 

updates regularly.

Wine Country Bouldering@GunksApps













@GunksApps


Wine Country Bouldering - YouTube Playlist

Wine Country Bouldering - Instagram


Saturday, December 17, 2022

Rincon Ridge Boulders


Rincon Ridge
{Topo-secret - word of mouth only}

1 V0 far left pockety arete/face FA=Leif
2 Tough Pumpkin V0 stand start direct up left face / Pumpkin VB exit right onto ledge FA=Leif
3 Smashing Pumpkins V3 sit start low left hand pocket up into #2 direct FA=CS
4 Pumpkin Traverse V5 start #5 finish #3 FA=CS
5 Buddha Belly V2 sit start main bulging prow - a RV classic! FA=Nathan Kemp+Leif
6 V2 start #5 go up right to top out FA=Leif / ? traverse right low below lip to arete?
/ Pumpkin Dyno V4 sit start low rail - dyno to to lip! FA=CS
7 V0 far right high rock stack tower FA=Leif / traverse? FA=Leif

Link-ups/Variations:
8 all holds traverse start #7 into #1?
9 traverse #7 into #6 reverse into #4?
10 reverse traverse #4 into #6 low?



Wednesday, October 26, 2022

Montecito Rocks

Dominion Boulder

1 Dominion V2 sit start* FA=DS/CS / V1 stand start* FA=DS

2 Dominatrix V6 FA=CS

3 Dominatrix Direct V!? FA=!?

4 Dominion Direct V5 dominaton direct FA=CS

5 Dominion Traverse V4 FA=CS 

6 Dominatrix Traverse V!? FA=?

7 ?


Pincherooni Boulder

8 Pincherooni V4 FA=CS

9 Pincherooni Traverse V? FA=?

10 V2/3? FA=LE

11 V1 sit V0 stand. FA=DS

12 V4 mantle sit. FA=KW 


Scoop Boulder

13 The Scoop V2 mini scoop problem. FA=CS

14 V2 arete. FA=KW


? Boulder(s)

15 V5 FA=CS

16 V4 FA=CS/LE

17 ?

18 ?

19 ?

20 ?


Summits Boulder

21 Summits Arete V6 FA=CS

22 Plummet or Summit V2 FA=CS


Montecito Wall

23 High Chaparral 5.10/11 TR+Highball/Solo-FA=RT / Lead-FA=CS

24 5.11/12? FA=?

25 left face/arete!?





 





Dominion V2FA sit start - YouTube

Dominion V2 Jared Feldstein - YouTube

The Montecito Rocks - fall 2022



Wednesday, August 17, 2022

My All Time Best-Hardest First Ascents

Top 10 First Ascent Routes:

Judge Dredd 5.13b FA - Sea Crag

Troubled Water 5.13a FA - Limestone Natural Bridge

Dry Line 5.12d FA - The Schoolhouse

Toll Taker 5.12c FA - The Schoolhouse

Pinch Hitter 5.12c FA - Limestone Natural Bridge

Witch Doctor 5.12b FA - Limestone Natural Bridge

Fire Walker 5.12a FA - Limestone Natural Bridge

Resurrection 5.12a FA - Frog Woman Rock

Eagle Feather 5.12a FA - Dos Rios

Snake Charmer 5.11d FA (trad) - Dos Rios


Top 10 First Ascent Boulders:

Bump n Grind V9 FA (unrepeated!?) - Mammoth

Summit Fever V8 FA - Mammoth

Super Abalone V8 FA - Super Slab

Livin La Vida Loca V8 FA - Fort Ross

Slapstick V8 FA - Secrets

Dragon Moon V8 FA - Caz

Slither V7 FA - Caz

Sabertooth V7 FA - Secrets

The Ramp V7 FA - Sonora Pass

Bloody Talon V7 FA - Mount Lassen






California Climber Magazine - Spring 2022

Thursday, July 21, 2022

Santa Rosa area climbing bouldering 2022

Rock Climbing & Bouldering within ~45min drive of Santa Rosa CA/Session Climbing Gym {~500+ boulder problems/climbs VB-V11 // 5.5-5.13}

PUBLIC ACCESS:

Spring Lake/Howarth Park = 5 problems V0-V4~ (+park climbing wall)

Sugarloaf Ridge Park = 200 boulder problems/climbs VB-V10/5.5-5.12/13~

Frog Woman Rock = 50 climbs/boulder problems VB-V6/5.10-5.12

Untamed Rocks = 10 climbs/boulder problems V0-V11R/5.10-5.12

Twin Peaks-DWS = 5 climbs/boulder problems 5.10-5.12 DWS

Dutch Bill Boulder/Boho Boulders = 30 climbs/boulder problems V0-V11


TOPO-SECRET - Inside of Santa Rosa city limits:

Villa Boulders = Happy Hour V4 FA=CS + Villa Chilla V1 FA=DW/CS

Montecito Boulders = Dominion V1/V2 FA=DS + Summits Arete V6 FA=CS + Dominatrix V2/V4 FA=CS + /V!? direct low sit FA=!? + Brush Geek 5.10 TR/solo FA=RT

Cobblestone Boulder = Cobble Wobble V5 + Cobble Wobble Traverse V6 FA=CS + Cobblestone Arete V2 FA=DS + Cobblestone Mantle V2/V4 sit FA=DS + Cobblestone Traverse V6 FA=RT


TOPO-SECRET - Outside of Santa Rosa city limits:

Alpine Rock = The Alpinist V1R FA=CS + The Masochist V5 FA=CS + Alpine Stem V1 FA=CS + Alpine Scramble 5.5 ++ 5.6-5.11-12TR/Lead // 5.13TR roof/prow project!?

Reptile Rocks = Reptilian V2 FA=RT + Reptile Traverse V2 FA=CS

Green Cave = Mean Green Traverse V8 FA=CS + Killer Green Traverse V6 FA=CS + KGB V4/V5 sit FA=JC/CS + Killer Green V0/V3 traverse FA=CS + Green Machine V3/V5 FA=CS + White Widow V5 FA=CB + Bobzien Machine V6 FA=RB + Verm's Variation V4 FA=Verm + Seans Problem V3 FA=SB + Kevins Sit V7 FA=KJ + The Influencer V9 FA=VA + V10 traverse!? FA=KJ?

Indian Cave = Wappo Wall V1-V4 + Sitting Bull V4 FA=CS + Indian Cave V4 FA=CS + Bull in a China Shop V6 FA=MS + The Wrong Way V6 FA=KM + "bullfighter project" V!!?? ++ TR/Lead - old historic dirty weird rope routes!?! :)

Tombstone Rock = Tombstone Arete 5.11a / 5.11b/c / 5.11c/d FA=DS + 5.12-13TR/Lead FA=RT + Tombstoned V4 stand V5 sit FA=CS//The Hunger V7 low sit FA=CS + The Tombstone V0 stand/V1 sit /V3 sit direct/V4 or V6 eliminate dynos + Tombstone Traverse V2/V4/V6 FA=DS/CS + Nailed It V1/V4 sit FA=DS/CS + Grave Cave V6 FA=DS + Grave Cave Traverse V4 FA=CS 

Postwood Boulders = V0-V5 FA=RT/CS

Stagecoach Boulders = V0-V6 FA=DS/CS

Safari West Boulders = V0-V7 FA=AC/CS

Rincon Ridge/Los Alamos = V5 FA=RT + V5 FA=KW

Nuns Canyon = V1-V6/7? FA=CJ/ED

First Falls = V0-V6/7? FA=J/J/CS















Monday, July 11, 2022

Asteroid Boulders














Asteroid Boulders

Asteroid Boulder

1 "Assteroid" V1 mantle asteroid knobs - "Meteor" V3 left start lip rail into mantle FA=CS

2 "space ghost direct"? V5/6? start #1 up right into direct top out?

3 "Space Ghost" V6 start #1 up right into #10 FA=CS - "universe traverse"? V6/7? start Meteor?

4 "Heelhookers Guide to the Galaxy" V6 low start up left into #1 FA=CS - V6/7? direct?

5 "heelhooker direct"? V6/7? low start straight up direct?

6 "heelhookers guide to the universe"? V7? start #1 into #10?

7 low sit start into #1!?

8 low sit start direct!?

9 low sit start into #10!?

10 "Comet" V2 far right stand start FA=DH

11 "Milky Way Traverse" V7 sit #2 - V6 stand start traverse slopers right into #1 FA=CS

12 "multiverse traverse"? V8/9!? #3 sit start then traverse far left into #10!?

13 "Space Walk" V5 start #10 traverse down and left into #1 FA=CS

14 "Cosmic" V2 far left face stand start flat knob FA=CS

15 "Space Monkey" V5 sit start knobs - "Space Cadet" V3 stand start FA=CS

16 "Orbit" V4 match hand stand start - V5 mid start V2 high jug lip start FA= CS low start!?

17 "Space Frog" V6 left bulge low start FA=CS

18 "zero g"? V2/3? center bulge stand start mantle? - low start!?

19 "?" V1/2? right bulge direct up from start of Meteor?

20 "?" V0/1/2? traverse on small boulder uphill FA=DH

21 ??

22 ??

23 ??

24 ??

Element Boulder

25 "Uranus" V3 low sit left traverse mini lip/arete up right to top (opposite #16) FA=CS/SB

26 "The Fourth Element" V4 start off tree on right traverse left to arete FA=SB

27 "The Fifth Element" V5 direct low start FA=CS

28 "Element" V3 sit start left arete - V1 stand start V4? sit start left arete right into direct face?FA=CS/SB

29 "Elemental" V5 low start direct face - V2 stand start FA=CS

Roof Boulder

30 "roof on fire"? V!? upstream roof boulder left?
 
31 upstream roof boulder right??


Neptune Boulder

32 "Neptune" V6 start hueco go up sloper left arete FA=RE

33 "Neptune Direct" V6 start hueco go straight out overhang to mantle top out FA=RT

34 "old chippy block"? V!? right side bulge up left into Neptune Direct top out FA=!?

35 ??


















Saturday, June 4, 2022

Reptile Rocks










Reptilian V2FA


Reptile Rocks

left to right

1 Baby Lizard V2 FA=CS

2 Reptile Traverse V2 FA=CS

3 crack FA=?

4 face FA=?

5 V2 lip traverse l to r FA=RT

6 low left sit up left or up right into #7 FA=?

7 Reptilian V2R direct center seams FA=RT

8 V1 corner arete FA=RT

9 left sit(s) r to l up into #10!? FA=?

10 highball right face FA=?

11 !?

12 !?

Reptilian V2FA Ryan Tolentino - YouTube

Reptile Traverse V2FA - YouTube