Friday, April 20, 2012

Bummer Boulders

Bummer Boulders - part 1

These are the boulders along the ridge off CA1 on the trail down to the classic Bay Area sport climbing test-pieces Endless Bummer (5.13b) and Surf Safari (5.13d/14a). I did the main problem here (semi highball V1/2ish?) about 15 or more years ago and I think I remember hearing from some locals that it might have been done before me. If it had it had been done it was by Scott Frye and friends while developing the Endless Bummer crag. Maybe a few others did it but probably just from a stand start if at all since it was very dirty when I found it. It is not the best problem due to some crumbly/hollow holds low down and the poison oak covered landing, but, it is pretty high, has a cool hueco in the middle and a great view. I went back a few years after I did the stand start and did the sit, which basicly adds a grade but takes off a star because of the hollow holds. The whole problem always needed a good cleaning but was barely worth it. There is also a lot of poison oak at the base and a rocky landing so no local boulderers ever seemed to care enough about it to clean it off or landscape the landing.

Nowadays, I am all about new bouldering so I went back to check it out again and found potential for some new problems - about 10-12 problems total. 4-18-12 - I finished cleaning the original problem and also totally cleaned most of the main face. It is now ready for a few more problems to be added. The smaller boulder next to it could have a few problems as well. If you get poison oak very bad at all then you don't want to boulder here. Otherwise it is at least worth a quick stop sometime on the way to or from Stinson or Mickey's Beach bouldering areas.

*List of problems so far (right to left):
1 "Main Course" V1/2 stand V2/3 sit (original/main line)
2 "Horizon" V2/3 stand V!? sit
3 "Thundercling" V2/3 stand V!? sit

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