Washoe Boulders, Carson City, Nevada - "Winter" (March) 2015
Desert volcanic welded tuff boulders, wild horses, sweet views and four-wheelin just on the outskirts of town.
Possible first ascents of 4 V4ish problems near the classic "Hollywood Hangover" (V8/9!?) at the Lower Washoe Boulders in Carson City Nevada:
"Gastoned" V3/4 stand, V4 direct sit - traverse low from left to right past classic gaston match moves up into the fun V1 right arete - or direct face (no arete) variation dyno to add a /(slash) grade (V4, V4/5) or dyno by itself is V1/2 stand start no right arete to big pointy jug on lip.
"Hangover Traverse" V4 start right arete sit (V3 by itself into V1 stand) then traverse past no-hands rest at base of Hollywood Hangover and then bust a final V1/2 section to no-hands finish in the big wide crack.
"Wild Horses" V4/5 traverse low from far right to far left around corner. Long and pumpy with three distinct and varied crux bulges.
Some of these or even all of these may have been done before but they had the tell-tale signs of fa's; no chalk but chalk on problems next to them, partially uncharted area separate from the already not so popular main area and loose and/or uncleaned holds. If not fa's they were fun problems anyways and I will delete these nicknames if/when I find out someday :)
Lower Washoe Boulders - YouTube
"Gastoned" V4 fa!? - YouTube
and some of the original Washoe classics:
"Jason Lives" V3 + "Storm Cycle" V5 - YouTube
The Washoe Boulders and possibly also the nearby Prison Hill bouldering area will most likely be covered in the small "nearby areas" section of the next edition of my Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo. The updated info will be coming out in a few years in the print book format but hopefully this year in the eBook version. For now check out a lot of info for Washoe in our Lake Tahoe Bouldering eBook which is not available in print format any longer but is available at the link above on SuperTopo.com as an eBook. Now that the new and more comprehensive, locally published Tahoe Bouldering Guides are out we are no longer making the print book for Lake Tahoe Bouldering. Check out the new locally made Tahoe Bouldering Guides here: LakeTahoeBouldering.com
Hey Chris!
ReplyDeleteIf you're researching FAs on these lines check in with Derek Bloomquist. He and I started the development of the Washoe Boulders. He lives up there and continued there and of course brought out other folks. It's cool to see the transformation of that place, it's a cool spot.
Nick Gloyd
Nice Nick! I will and thanks very much.
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