Tuesday, March 21, 2017
Monday, March 20, 2017
The Best of Sunrise Rocks ~ Spring 2017
Sunrise Rocks, Sugarloaf Ridge CA.
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
{~many local variations and link ups~}
Main Rock
"Sol Chaser" V3 left face/arete direct on separate detached block over rocky landing! FA=RC
"Sunlight Arete" V0* far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS
"Direct Sunlight" V1*** sit or V0** stand - face right of corner left of arete. FA=DW
"Synchrodipity" V2*** sit or V1** stand - arete/prow/face - high easy finish. FA=CS/LB
"Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left or direct up right V2/3*** - start on big jug chunk. FA=CS
V0/1R*** (or 5.9/10*** TR) high face just right of Sundial and left of prow - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT
V1/2R*** (or 5.10/11*** TR) high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit! FA=HH/RT
"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** low sit on right hand compression arete left of start for Sunrise Face and traverse steep face left into V6*** jug rail start and right into V5*** jug chunk start same as Sundial then low left around prow into far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS
!? steep bulge mega highball/TR project!! FA=!?
"Sol Rebel" V5*** sit start center of high steep face on edges go up to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol Rebel Direct" V5*** start right on undercling traverse direct up left to jug drop off. FA=AC
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** start on Sunrise Face and traverse direct up right to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol" V1/2**** start undercling pull up around right arete step off at no hands slab rest. FA=CS
"Sol Sacrifice" V2**** traverse V0** over rocks far right into VB/0** arete to top of rock. FA=CS
"Del Sol" V2/3*** direct low scrunchy fun sit into Sol. FA=EB
"Solar Wind" V5*** low start edges center face traverse right to big undercling up into Sol. FA=CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start then traverse right into Sol. FA=CS
"Savasana" V6/7*** same low sit start as Sol Rebel and Solar Wind then traverse high right into Sol arete staying above the big undercling (or V6** stand start). FA=CS
"Savasana Traverse"? V7? start far left and traverse right into Savasana. FA=?
V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS
"Stashbox" V1/2*** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1** slab arete. FA=CS
"Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4*** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS
Dawn Boulder
"Common Ground" V6**** center/left slab face - start next to waterfall :) V4*** left stand start. FA=CS/AC
"Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V2*** high right hand arete/face over creek left of waterfall! FA=DW
"New Dawn Arete" V2*** start FDWMBP and go up halfway then traverse right around arete over waterfall into top out of The Student. FA=CS
"The Student" V5/6*** mid sit over waterfall or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2** stand. FA=A?
Sungazer Boulder
"Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW
"Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW
"The Dirty Joke(s)"? V!? bulge/face projects left or right of Sun God!? FA=?
"Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit start then traverse up right into V5*** stand start high bulge/face center/right side of steep main face. (V6**** mid start) FA=CS
"Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece!} direct right low sit up left into Sun God V5 stand start (or V9/10**** mid sit)! FA: KJ 1-16-17
"Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same sit start as Sun God then traverse right into Sol Gazer!? FA: ?
"Sungazer" V2**** classic stand start on perfect campus board size edges crank over bulge up into high easy slab corner or V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into stand start. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse" V6** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7* start same as V6 traverse but direct/no jug chunk. FA=CS
"Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start jug chunk traverse edges left into Sungazer stand. FA=CS
"Sol Gazer" V6**** mid start direct on prow with right hand sloper and left hand undercling chunk and power past a sloper and crimps into Sungazer stand start to top out. FA=CS
"Sol Gazer Direct" aka "Sungazer Direct" V9/10*** low sit start (V9**** mid sit) top out direct up right into "Sungazer Direct Stand" V4** stand start sloper prow - or up right into Sol Gazer. FA: KJ
"Finger Slayer" V4** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into edges and right into jug chunk and top out or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (right jug chunk is off) FA=EB
Sunshine Boulder
"Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS
"Dark Star Arete" V2/3** short left hand arete sit top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Dark Star" V3*** sit far right face direct (no left arete) top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as arete then go right up face direct into Dark Star. FA=TC
"Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS
Dwarf Star Boulder
"Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of short steep face to perfect lip mantle. FA=CS
"Dwarf Toss" V4/5*** double dyno!! FA=CS
The Sunrise Rocks - blog
Sunrise Rocks Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering 2017 - YOUTUBE
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
{~many local variations and link ups~}
Main Rock
"Sol Chaser" V3 left face/arete direct on separate detached block over rocky landing! FA=RC
"Sunlight Arete" V0* far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunlight Corner" V0/1** direct face/corner right of arete. FA=CS
"Direct Sunlight" V1*** sit or V0** stand - face right of corner left of arete. FA=DW
"Synchrodipity" V2*** sit or V1** stand - arete/prow/face - high easy finish. FA=CS/LB
"Sundial" V3**** corner/face up left or direct up right V2/3*** - start on big jug chunk. FA=CS
V0/1R*** (or 5.9/10*** TR) high face just right of Sundial and left of prow - highball/TR!? FA=HH/RT
V1/2R*** (or 5.10/11*** TR) high face/prow - stand start or V5*** steep face or arete sit! FA=HH/RT
"Sunrise Traverse" V7**** low sit on right hand compression arete left of start for Sunrise Face and traverse steep face left into V6*** jug rail start and right into V5*** jug chunk start same as Sundial then low left around prow into far left arete. FA=CS
"Sunrise Face" 5.10/11**** classic corner/crack/face - avoid/don't hurt the succulents :) highball/TR!? FA=CS
!? steep bulge mega highball/TR project!! FA=!?
"Sol Rebel" V5*** sit start center of high steep face on edges go up to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol Rebel Direct" V5*** start right on undercling traverse direct up left to jug drop off. FA=AC
"Sol Rebel Traverse" V6** start on Sunrise Face and traverse direct up right to jug drop off. FA=CS
"Sol" V1/2**** start undercling pull up around right arete step off at no hands slab rest. FA=CS
"Sol Sacrifice" V2**** traverse V0** over rocks far right into VB/0** arete to top of rock. FA=CS
"Del Sol" V2/3*** direct low scrunchy fun sit into Sol. FA=EB
"Solar Wind" V5*** low start edges center face traverse right to big undercling up into Sol. FA=CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6** left sit start then traverse right into Sol. FA=CS
"Savasana" V6/7*** same low sit start as Sol Rebel and Solar Wind then traverse high right into Sol arete staying above the big undercling (or V6** stand start). FA=CS
"Savasana Traverse"? V7? start far left and traverse right into Savasana. FA=?
V0**R/X high left face/arete over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*R high right face over rock chasm! FA=DW
VB/0*** high easy arete on backside of main face up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock. FA=CS
"Stashbox" V1/2*** left slab face traverse in corridor up into fun V0/1** slab arete. FA=CS
"Matchbox" V5/6** right face in tight corridor sit start matched in far back or V3/4*** mid sit into V2/3** arete sit start to V0/1** slab stand start. FA=CS
Dawn Boulder
"Common Ground" V6**** center/left slab face - start next to waterfall :) V4*** left stand start. FA=CS/AC
"Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V2*** high right hand arete/face over creek left of waterfall! FA=DW
"New Dawn Arete" V2*** start FDWMBP and go up halfway then traverse right around arete over waterfall into top out of The Student. FA=CS
"The Student" V5/6*** mid sit over waterfall or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2** stand. FA=A?
Sungazer Boulder
"Heliacal" V1** face left of arete and tree. FA=DW
"Empyreal" V0** center/left face sit or traverse. FA=DW
"The Dirty Joke(s)"? V!? bulge/face projects left or right of Sun God!? FA=?
"Sun God" V7**** low left arete sit start then traverse up right into V5*** stand start high bulge/face center/right side of steep main face. (V6**** mid start) FA=CS
"Sun God Direct" V10**** {Sugarloaf Ridge Testpiece!} direct right low sit up left into Sun God V5 stand start (or V9/10**** mid sit)! FA: KJ 1-16-17
"Sun God Traverse"? V9/10? same sit start as Sun God then traverse right into Sol Gazer!? FA: ?
"Sungazer" V2**** classic stand start on perfect campus board size edges crank over bulge up into high easy slab corner or V6*** sit start on tiny right and left hand crimps up into stand start. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse" V6** same sit then traverse edges right into jug chunk top out. FA=CS
"Sungazer Traverse Direct" V6/7* start same as V6 traverse but direct/no jug chunk. FA=CS
"Sunblazer Traverse" V5** sit start jug chunk traverse edges left into Sungazer stand. FA=CS
"Sol Gazer" V6**** mid start direct on prow with right hand sloper and left hand undercling chunk and power past a sloper and crimps into Sungazer stand start to top out. FA=CS
"Sol Gazer Direct" aka "Sungazer Direct" V9/10*** low sit start (V9**** mid sit) top out direct up right into "Sungazer Direct Stand" V4** stand start sloper prow - or up right into Sol Gazer. FA: KJ
"Finger Slayer" V4** sit start sharp right hand sugar-cube crimp up into edges and right into jug chunk and top out or "Finger Slayer Direct" V4/5** direct up face (right jug chunk is off) FA=EB
Sunshine Boulder
"Sunshine Slab" VB/0*** fun easy center slab face. FA=CS
"Dark Star Arete" V2/3** short left hand arete sit top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Dark Star" V3*** sit far right face direct (no left arete) top out direct or traverse off right. FA=CS
"Prodigal Sun" V4*** low left sit same as arete then go right up face direct into Dark Star. FA=TC
"Sol Train" V3** stand or V4** sit start - slab/face traverse low and left below line of good edges. FA=CS
Dwarf Star Boulder
"Dwarf Star" V3*** low funky sit start in left/center of short steep face to perfect lip mantle. FA=CS
"Dwarf Toss" V4/5*** double dyno!! FA=CS
The Sunrise Rocks - blog
Sunrise Rocks Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering 2017 - YOUTUBE
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