Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Orange Buddha Boulder - Mickeys Beach - Bay Area Bouldering 2017 Update

Winter 2017 the main bouldering rock at Mickeys Beach known as The Orange Buddha Boulder or The Danger Boulder shifted on the sandy beach in the big wet storms. The boulder tilted to the south and east and seems to have slipped west, down and out toward the sea. Several problems are gone or drastically changed and all are different ratings now. Basically the problems on the north/nude beach side are higher but less steep and therefore easier now and the classic Orange Buddha Arete V8 and most of the problems to the right of it are now less than half as high, less than half as hard and way less than half as good. Only the Orange Buddha Face to the right of what was the Orange Buddha Arete is still high enough to be enjoyed and it is steeper and harder now ~ V4/5. The classic west face test-piece Bound By Tension was V11 but is now about V9 since the holds tilted and have become less sloper. The best new classic is the north east arete nicknamed "Plumass"? lol and is about V7.


Orange Buddha Boulder - West Face
(R to L)
1 ~V0/1 short overhanging juggy right arete.
2 Bound by Tension ~V9 sloper up steep prow right into #1.

Orange Buddha Boulder - North Face/Nude Beach Face
(L to R)
3 Peeping Tom ~V3
4 Diagonal Crack V1
5 Baseball ~V2
6 Don't Worry Be Snappy aka Wheel Well ~V3
7 Grace Face ~V3
8 Peeping Tom Traverse ~V4
9 Plumass ~V7 was The Changeling (~V4) variation to the left.

Orange Buddha Boulder - East Face
(L to R)
10 New Orange Buddha Arete ~V3
11 Orange Buddha Face ~V4/5
12 ~V1/2/3?
13 ~V6/7 low crimps sit.
14 ~V2/3 face left of arete.
15 ~V3/4 red boulder spire behind trail.


*classics lost or drastically changed;
Orange Buddha Arete V8 or V9 low left sit.
Orange Pleasure V4
Back in the Day V4
Bodhi Day V9
Dayo V6
Shark Sighting V10
Great White V8
Hammerhead V7
The Changeling V4









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