For histories sake and for anyone that can find and make it into the top secret world class steep waterfall sporting Jedi meditation Mammoth Cave of Sonoma County/Northern California here is the list of problems:
*From the same stand start near the base of the large/main cave there are 3 original lines (#2-4) and 2 link ups (#5-6) that I know of and maybe even a few more link ups/variations - I will ask for more beta and post it if I get it.
1 "Mammoth Warm Up" V4 aka The Warm Up - stand start at large eyeball shaped bat hang rest hueco/hole about 2/3 of the way up the main cave and go up straight up/up right then up left through large holes to dual natural thread pocket finish. Or V4/5 from start on rail just below eyeball hueco. FA=KA
2 "The Savage" ~V7/8 or ~5.13a stand start at base and go straight up/up right along back of cave to stand start at large eyeball shaped bat hang rest hueco/hole and go up straight up/up right then up left through large holes to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. FA=KA
3 "The Oracle" ~V8 or ~5.13a/b stand start at base and go straight up/direct staying left of eyeball hueco bat rest to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. FA=KA
4 "Tribal Rights" ~V8/9 or ~5.13b/c stand start at base and go up left along high side of cave next to waterfall and go up straight up/up left (same finish as The Oracle/or similar) to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. (~there might be another line more to the left/closer to waterfall but it would be higher up~) FA=KA
5 "Oracle-Savage" ~V8 maybe the best line in the main cave although they are all world class imo - stand start at base and go straight up/direct then right into rail (V4/5 warm up) into large eyeball shaped bat hang rest hueco/hole and go up straight up/up right then up left through large holes to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. FA=CB
6 "Savage-Oracle" ~V8 stand start Savage then finish Oracle with no eyeball hueco bat hang rest. FA=CS
7 "The Sorcerer" ~V6 stand start at rail below eyeball hueco bat rest then traverse up and left into the dual natural thread pockets finish (same finish as #1-6). FA=CS
8 "Mammoth Extension" ~V7 stand start at dual natural thread pocket finish. FA=KA
9 "Chill Cave" ~V6 stand start at right side of pillar and go up right to final good pocket in the smaller cave where most people chill (~V6 sit at or near #10 sit) - or "Full Chill Cave" ~V7 stand start about 15ft left on the pillar about 10ft above the dual natural thread pockets and traverse/climb up right into the V6 start. FA=CS
10 "Mammoth Roof" ~V5 stand start and go straight up and out roof in center of pillar between the main cave and the chill cave and bust moves direct out roof to jug finish - or ~V6 sit start. FA=SB
11 ~V6/7/8? sit start below base of 2-6 and link into #2-6 or #12-13!!??
12 V!? do #2-6 into #8!?
13 V!!?? do #11 into #2-6!!??
14 """Full Mammoth Cave!?""" V!!!??? do #13 into #9/Full Chill Cave!!!???
15 !?!?!?
Sunday, December 16, 2018
Monday, September 10, 2018
Fort Ross Boulder(s) History 2018
Richie Esquibel sending a lap on the original classic main arete on the main block "Living A Dream" which was V5 before the starting rock sunk into the sand and is now started lower at about V6/7~
The world class Fort Ross sandstone boulders on the Pacific Coast of Sonoma County California have one of the best V6's in the world and a few other ultra mega classic lines. There are only about 50 boulder problems total counting the main block and South and North Coves but the plumb lines on the main boulder are tried and true classics. "Fort Rossta" V6 sit start is the center line up the steep high face of the main boulder. Here is the history of this precious area:
It all started when local climbers ventured north from the popular Sunset Boulders at Goat Rock State Park past what was at the time a new climbing and bouldering area, Dry Creek Sea Crag aka The Sea Crag to explore and establish the sandstone of Salt Point State Park. The sandstone was mostly thought of as too sandy and crumbly for high quality lines but in the summer any new stone on the cool local coastline was the place to be. The first climbs were top rope or traditional and were few and far between. Avid local climbing pioneer Mark Howe had found and done some easy to moderate climbs at Sea Crag and Salt Point then myself with Ryan Padgett did the first official boulder problem on the Northern Sonoma County Coast sandstone, "Walk The Plank to the Burning Vise Grip of Love" aka "Vise Grip" V3/4 at what would later be named Shroomland. Then for a year or so the sandstone sat mostly untouched as it had in the past until a new local climber Richie Esquibel who lived closer to the coast than most all of the other local climbers hiked down to check out a boulder we had all seen as we drove past but thought the sandstone on the waters edge is likely too wet and soft/crumbly - doh!! We were all so very wrong, all except Richie. Being new to climbing with only a year or more of climbing experience the best line (best at that time), the highball main right arete was a bit tough as a first ascent for him so he got our friend and local bad ass Marcos Nunez to come try it with him. Marcos spent his winters on the road climbing and bouldering at Joshua Tree and Hueco Tanks so he was strong, skilled and experienced and knocked it out quickly. He first did it from the stand start on the rock that used to stick out of the sand but has since sunk away. He named it "Living A Dream" V5. Within about a week or so my friend and main climbing partner at the time Shawn Rogers heard about it and he and I met Richie and Marcos and his strong and talented girlfriend and climbing partner Bonnie there and we all repeated it that day or soon after. I can't remember exactly but I think we worked the center face up into the main arete "Living A Dream" from a couple starts with the main line at that time being Richie's (now almost forgotten and lost in the sands of time) "Shazinky" V8 that sit started low on the "ball" hold (RIP ball:( and angling up right into the arete. This line was not the path of least resistance but it was direct and hard. The path of least resistance was to do the same start but use the sloper ledge above to cut a hard right and traverse up into the main arete which was about a grade easier but was not direct and as hard as "Shazinky".
That was mostly it for Fort Ross for about another year or so until Marcos cleaned a loose block off the sloper ledge in the middle of the center face opening up the jug stand start to the center face with the rad dynamic deadpoint move from the jug up left to a perfect campus board size edge and past the big rails to the top apex of the boulder that is now the mega classic "Fort Rossta". The sit start would go down soon and we can't remember for sure who got it, either Marcos, Richie or me. As Richie recalls the sand was much higher back then and the sit start was very butt dragger anso he thinks I got the sit first (since I love butt-dragger lowballs lol) and I like that idea :) but we can't be sure. Now it is no longer a butt-drager lowball start). We used to use a different reachier sequence until a shorter person, possibly Bonnie made up the less reachy left sequence with the edges that is now the most popular way for everyone and especially since the "ball" hold broke forcing the moves up left now for the most part. Soon after that the "Left Arete" was done, I think I got it first but I/we can't really remember. Then I did the full traverse from far right around the main arete/"Living A Dream" and down the first crux of the center face to the far left and up the "Left Arete" to finish - "Rossta Traverse" V8 (~unrepeated and likely much harder or impossible currently?) since the ball broke and possibly holds on the "Left Arete"(??). Not too long after that I worked the low right sit start up into "Living A dream" for what I called "Living La Vida Loca" V8 not knowing that around the same time or sooner Russ Bobzien and his friend Jason Hicks did the same or similar start up into the main arete and up right into one of the original moderate lines "Swiss Cheese". So we can't be sure if Russ or myself got the first ascent of those, so we will share the FA credit. After "Loca" I linked it into the traverse for "Living La Vida Smoka" aka "Smoka" V9 (~also unrepeated and likely much harder or impossible currently?) About that time the Berkeley/Bay Area crews nicknamed the center face "Fort Rossta" which we were just calling "Fort Ross Face" since Marcos in his reticent style never named it. Around this time Charlie Barrett did the dyno from the jug on "Fort Rossta" skipping the left edge and throwing up right to the big rails below the top for his FA "Flying Monkey" V8. Another shared FA we found out about later was by Jim Thornburg, a good friend of Marcos' who did the stand start of the center face up right into the arete and called it "Rossta Dreams" either just before or just after I had done the sit start "Living A Nightmare" - I like his name better for the whole line so it is a shared FA by Jim and I and can be called either "Living A Nightmare" or "Rossta Dreams" - my name made sense before the name "Fort Rossta" was given to the center face but now his name is more obvious and has a peaceful NorCal rasta vibe ;)
Then the boulder stayed the way it was for another year or so until the rock at the base of "Living A Dream" sunk into the sand and disappeared (making Living A Dream harder from lower starts now ~V6/7). The sand levels continue to get lower and lower which opened up the direct low low sit start to the main arete which many locals raced for but strong and talented local Ryan Tolentino who lived nearby would get first ascent of and named "Grand Finale" (now mistakenly called "Relentless") and gave it V9. After that Ryan did "Grand Finale" into the "Rossta Traverse" and called that "Relentless" V10/11 but since the traverse was a mega link-up with a down-climb section it was not very popular and people began to call the best hardest plumb line low sit start up into the proud main arete "Relentless" and bumped it up to V10. So the traverse link-up Ryan did would've likely been V11 making it one of the hardest lines in Sonoma County at the time. The only other ~V11ish (or harder~) line at that time was to do a lap (down and back no stepping off) of Marcos' "Hard Traverse" V10 at Sunset Boulders/Mammoth Rocks in Goat Rock State Park which is likely also about V11. The only problems on the Sonoma Coast that are harder are Giovanni Traversi's new V12 and V13 test-pieces at Salt Point State Park other than those Fort Ross still holds the best quality and most challenging full value lines on the Sonoma Coast.
World class climber and boulderer, Santa Rosa local Carlo Traversi said something like;
"Fort Rossta" is one of the closest type stones to South African/Rocklands sandstone with big moves on solid features but since it is on the beach it is possibly the best/one of the best V6's in the world.
{I heard a hold(s) may have broken on the "Left Arete" and that it has not gone since the breakage but I have not been there recently to know for sure~}
As a sidenote;
The day Shawn Rogers and I first bouldered at Fort Ross we decided that if that random sandstone block was that good maybe we should explore some of the other rocks we drove past on the Northern Sonoma Coast on our way home so we stopped at a slabby looking schist boulder that Mark Howe had told us about and named "Not So Super Slab" where he had done the main high but easy VB/0 slab face and a few other moderates and see what we could scrounge up - we scored! With a little cleaning and landscaping Shawn and I over the next few years, along with David Wallach later on opened up many short to medium length steep technical lines from V0 to V9 and quickly dropped the "Not So" from the name and began calling it "Super Slab".
With so much high quality and varied types of stone in Sonoma County it's no wonder why so many top level climbers/boulderers are from here, Kevin Jorgeson, Carlo Traversi, Giovanni Traversi, Charlie Barrett, Jason Campbell, Marcos Nunez and Sean Brady just to name a few. About half of our rocks are publicly accessible but the other half and a lot of the best spots are unfortunately on private property and/or have access issues and are therefore hidden secrets so it may not look like we have a plethora of stone in print or that you can easily see from the roads or trails but it is out there and we are very very lucky :))
"Fort Rossta" V6 YouTube
"Flying Monkey" V8 YouTube
"Living La Vida Loca" V8 YouTube
Saturday, July 21, 2018
First Falls Reborn!!
First Falls ~100 problems at ~3 zones!!
First Falls - Downstream/Swimming Hole (original/old school)
The Reef Boulder
1 Reefer Madness left arete next to main swimming hole FA=CS
2 Reefer Man left or right center face lines next to main swimming hole FA=CS
3 The Reefer right side of main face off flat rock next to main swimming hole FA=CS
4 Reef Leap next to main swimming hole FA=RT/DKL??
5 Reefer Traverse? next to main swimming hole.
6 ?
7 ?
Beachside Boulder
8 Beachside V3 FA=DKL
9 Beach House V6 FA=DKL
10 ?
Rhino Boulder
11 Rhinoplasty V4/5 sloper stand start FA=CS V5/6 sit?
12 ?
????
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?
First Falls - Upstream/Main Area (new)
Clutch Boulder
1 Skunk Train Traverse V1 below road/trailhead FA=JC/MR
2 Pepe Le Pew V3? sit start bulge up right - or up left - or link up(s)? below trail FA=JC/MR
Upstream Slab?
3 left slab
4 left arete/face
5 right arete face
6 traverse
Lawnmower Boulder
7 V1/2 rail traverse FA=JC?
8 Lawnmower Traverse V1 FA=JC/MR
9 Lawnmower Man V4/5 FA=CS
10 Lawnmower Direct V1 dead point - or V2 dyno to top? FA=CS?
11 The Lawnmower V0 FA=JC/MR
12 Lawnmower Roof V1 FA=JS?
13 ?
The Island
14 VB easy slab up/downclimb - or The Downclimb Dyno V1 dyno from start jug to top jug(s)!
15 Under the Bridge V1 or Over the Bridge V3 FA=JC?
16 The Island Arete V4 stand start classic left arete FA=JC or sit start FA=CS
17 Pork Chop V3 sit start center face V1 stand - or slots (between left arete-center face)? FA=JC
18 Amphibious V5/6 sit start classic right arete or V1/2 stand start FA=JC
19 sit start #18 up left into #17?
20 sit start #18 then traverse up left into #16!?
21 sit start #17 traverse up right into #18
22 V1 stand start face bulge right side of arete right of #18 - or hard low sit start!?
23 Lonely Island V3 sit start undercling sidepulls left of center on east face FA=CS
24 Knee Barrio V4/5 low knee bar sit start or V3/4 sit - center east face FA=JC/CS
25 Knee Pootie? sit start Knee Barrio and finish Pootie Tang?
26 Pootie Tang V3 sit start right arete - or V1 stand FA=JC
27 Pootie Tang Traverse V4 sit start #25 up left into #23 FA=CS
28 easy face/slab right of #20 and left of dws.
29 dws face FA=JC?
30 dws traverse FA=JC?
31 ?
32 ?
Gods Stone
33 V5? mega classic high arete/prow!? FA=RT??
34 Arnold Bomber V2/3? thin clean vertical face FA=JC/MR
35 Cat Piss V4 short steep bulge over rocky pit - stand start FA=CS / sit FA=!?
36 Zen V3 FA=CS - or Zen Buddha V3/4 traverse into from Buddha Belly?
37 The Atheist V1 stand start sculpted stemming scoop or V1/2 sit FA=JC
or Atheist Direct V2 low right sit FA=M? or Atheist Traverse V3 sit start at Buddha Belly FA=CS
38 Frog Goddess V5/6 mid-height diagonal traverse from Atheist low into Buddha Belly. FA=AB
39 Buddha Belly V4 low sit start on shelf up over sculpted bulge FA=CS
40 ?
????
41 Clovis Point V2 squat start short cutter arete opposite #33 FA=CS - or sit start?
42 short arete just uphill from east face of Gods Stone. FA=JC?
43 arete slab on hillside above east face of Gods Stone. FA=?
44 lip traverse on short boulder just upstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
45 corner/arete on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
46 slab face(s) on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
47 short steep red chert boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
48 arete next to big boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
49 high arete on big boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=!?
50 high face on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=!?
51 ?
52 ?
53 ?
54 ?
55 ?
First Falls - Upstream/Middle Zone (cliff routes!?)
1 arete - drop off shelf V3/4 - or top out highball V!? FA=?
2 high crack/face left of arete!? (route??)
3 face(s) FA=JC?
4 VB traverse over water.
5 left arete (route?)
6 left layback face (route?)
7 face/prow (route?)
8 (route??)
9 (route??)
10 (route??)
11 Cellophane V2/3 low stand start FA=JS or V3/4 low sit start FA=CS/JS
12 Plastic Wrap V2/3 low right sit start up into Cellophane FA=CS
14 The Arm Pit V0/1 short boulder over rocky pit FA=CS
15 Get Lippy V2 lowball lip traverse sculpted stone FA=CS/SL
16 steep face next to waterfall!?
17 short bulge up right? - or up left?
18 short bulge backside?
19 slab face next to waterfall?
20 Impermanence V2/3? short/medium high steep red chert stone FA=JC?
21 ? semi high left arete FA=JS
22 high face right of left arete!?
23 face arete just above/next to left arete?
24 ?
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?
Google Photo Album - First Falls/Sulfur Creek
First Falls playlist YouTube
First Falls - Downstream/Swimming Hole (original/old school)
The Reef Boulder
1 Reefer Madness left arete next to main swimming hole FA=CS
2 Reefer Man left or right center face lines next to main swimming hole FA=CS
3 The Reefer right side of main face off flat rock next to main swimming hole FA=CS
4 Reef Leap next to main swimming hole FA=RT/DKL??
5 Reefer Traverse? next to main swimming hole.
6 ?
7 ?
Beachside Boulder
8 Beachside V3 FA=DKL
9 Beach House V6 FA=DKL
10 ?
Rhino Boulder
11 Rhinoplasty V4/5 sloper stand start FA=CS V5/6 sit?
12 ?
????
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?
First Falls - Upstream/Main Area (new)
Clutch Boulder
1 Skunk Train Traverse V1 below road/trailhead FA=JC/MR
2 Pepe Le Pew V3? sit start bulge up right - or up left - or link up(s)? below trail FA=JC/MR
Upstream Slab?
3 left slab
4 left arete/face
5 right arete face
6 traverse
Lawnmower Boulder
7 V1/2 rail traverse FA=JC?
8 Lawnmower Traverse V1 FA=JC/MR
9 Lawnmower Man V4/5 FA=CS
10 Lawnmower Direct V1 dead point - or V2 dyno to top? FA=CS?
11 The Lawnmower V0 FA=JC/MR
12 Lawnmower Roof V1 FA=JS?
13 ?
The Island
14 VB easy slab up/downclimb - or The Downclimb Dyno V1 dyno from start jug to top jug(s)!
15 Under the Bridge V1 or Over the Bridge V3 FA=JC?
16 The Island Arete V4 stand start classic left arete FA=JC or sit start FA=CS
17 Pork Chop V3 sit start center face V1 stand - or slots (between left arete-center face)? FA=JC
18 Amphibious V5/6 sit start classic right arete or V1/2 stand start FA=JC
19 sit start #18 up left into #17?
20 sit start #18 then traverse up left into #16!?
21 sit start #17 traverse up right into #18
22 V1 stand start face bulge right side of arete right of #18 - or hard low sit start!?
23 Lonely Island V3 sit start undercling sidepulls left of center on east face FA=CS
24 Knee Barrio V4/5 low knee bar sit start or V3/4 sit - center east face FA=JC/CS
25 Knee Pootie? sit start Knee Barrio and finish Pootie Tang?
26 Pootie Tang V3 sit start right arete - or V1 stand FA=JC
27 Pootie Tang Traverse V4 sit start #25 up left into #23 FA=CS
28 easy face/slab right of #20 and left of dws.
29 dws face FA=JC?
30 dws traverse FA=JC?
31 ?
32 ?
Gods Stone
33 V5? mega classic high arete/prow!? FA=RT??
34 Arnold Bomber V2/3? thin clean vertical face FA=JC/MR
35 Cat Piss V4 short steep bulge over rocky pit - stand start FA=CS / sit FA=!?
36 Zen V3 FA=CS - or Zen Buddha V3/4 traverse into from Buddha Belly?
37 The Atheist V1 stand start sculpted stemming scoop or V1/2 sit FA=JC
or Atheist Direct V2 low right sit FA=M? or Atheist Traverse V3 sit start at Buddha Belly FA=CS
38 Frog Goddess V5/6 mid-height diagonal traverse from Atheist low into Buddha Belly. FA=AB
39 Buddha Belly V4 low sit start on shelf up over sculpted bulge FA=CS
40 ?
????
41 Clovis Point V2 squat start short cutter arete opposite #33 FA=CS - or sit start?
42 short arete just uphill from east face of Gods Stone. FA=JC?
43 arete slab on hillside above east face of Gods Stone. FA=?
44 lip traverse on short boulder just upstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
45 corner/arete on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
46 slab face(s) on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
47 short steep red chert boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
48 arete next to big boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
49 high arete on big boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=!?
50 high face on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=!?
51 ?
52 ?
53 ?
54 ?
55 ?
First Falls - Upstream/Middle Zone (cliff routes!?)
1 arete - drop off shelf V3/4 - or top out highball V!? FA=?
2 high crack/face left of arete!? (route??)
3 face(s) FA=JC?
4 VB traverse over water.
5 left arete (route?)
6 left layback face (route?)
7 face/prow (route?)
8 (route??)
9 (route??)
10 (route??)
11 Cellophane V2/3 low stand start FA=JS or V3/4 low sit start FA=CS/JS
12 Plastic Wrap V2/3 low right sit start up into Cellophane FA=CS
14 The Arm Pit V0/1 short boulder over rocky pit FA=CS
15 Get Lippy V2 lowball lip traverse sculpted stone FA=CS/SL
16 steep face next to waterfall!?
17 short bulge up right? - or up left?
18 short bulge backside?
19 slab face next to waterfall?
20 Impermanence V2/3? short/medium high steep red chert stone FA=JC?
21 ? semi high left arete FA=JS
22 high face right of left arete!?
23 face arete just above/next to left arete?
24 ?
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?
Google Photo Album - First Falls/Sulfur Creek
First Falls playlist YouTube
Monday, April 2, 2018
Mayacamas Mountains Climbing
Stretching from the Sonoma-Napa Hills in the south and Santa Rosa to the west up to the Mendocino Range in the north and as far east as Mt St Helena and Cobb Mt in Lake County, The Mayacamas Mountains are the natural boundary between Sonoma and Napa counties world famous wine regions. The Mayacamas are the main backbone of the Coastal Range in the North Bay Area as well as the heart of my neck of the woods, my hometowns backyard :)
Ancient Yuki Wappo Native American Tribal Land.
Here are the top 25 rock climbing and bouldering areas in and around the Mayacamas as of 2018:
South to North;
NAME - COUNTY + # OF PROBLEMS/ROUTES
{toposecret = top secret / no topo // word of mouth // locals only~}
* = legit / public access!
Atlas Peak - Napa {toposecret} ~5 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
Sonoma Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~15 problems/routes
Mossy Boulder? - Napa {toposecret} ~5 problems
Veeder Rocks - Napa {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Mammoth Cave - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems
*Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma ~200 problems/routes
Adobe Canyon - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems
*Hood Mt - Sonoma ~15 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
Cougar Crag - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
*Santa Rosa Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~20 problems/routes
Alpine Rock - Sonoma {toposecret} ~5 problems/routes
Green Cave/Indian Cave - Sonoma {toposecret} ~15 problems
Mark West Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~50 problems/routes
*Mossy Rock - Napa ~10 problems/routes
Linda Falls - Napa {toposecret} ~10 problems
The Schoolhouse - Napa {toposecret} ~10 routes
*Pacific Palisades - Napa ~10 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
*Table Rock - Napa ~50 problems/routes
*Mt St Helena - Sonoma/Napa ~200 problems/routes
Socrates Mine/Devils Punchbowl - Lake ~5 problems/routes
Cobb Mt - Lake {toposecret} ~5 problems
Eagle Rock/Russian River - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Pine Flat - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Geyserville - Sonoma {toposecret} ~25 problems/routes
Mecca/First Falls - Sonoma {toposecret} ~75 problems/routes
TOTAL = 700+ boulder problems and sport or traditional routes up to V10 and 5.13
(~200 FA's to my credit.)
Ancient Yuki Wappo Native American Tribal Land.
Here are the top 25 rock climbing and bouldering areas in and around the Mayacamas as of 2018:
South to North;
NAME - COUNTY + # OF PROBLEMS/ROUTES
{toposecret = top secret / no topo // word of mouth // locals only~}
* = legit / public access!
Atlas Peak - Napa {toposecret} ~5 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
Sonoma Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~15 problems/routes
Mossy Boulder? - Napa {toposecret} ~5 problems
Veeder Rocks - Napa {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Mammoth Cave - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems
*Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma ~200 problems/routes
Adobe Canyon - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems
*Hood Mt - Sonoma ~15 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
Cougar Crag - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
*Santa Rosa Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~20 problems/routes
Alpine Rock - Sonoma {toposecret} ~5 problems/routes
Green Cave/Indian Cave - Sonoma {toposecret} ~15 problems
Mark West Rocks - Sonoma {toposecret} ~50 problems/routes
*Mossy Rock - Napa ~10 problems/routes
Linda Falls - Napa {toposecret} ~10 problems
The Schoolhouse - Napa {toposecret} ~10 routes
*Pacific Palisades - Napa ~10 problems/routes (~undeveloped~)
*Table Rock - Napa ~50 problems/routes
*Mt St Helena - Sonoma/Napa ~200 problems/routes
Socrates Mine/Devils Punchbowl - Lake ~5 problems/routes
Cobb Mt - Lake {toposecret} ~5 problems
Eagle Rock/Russian River - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Pine Flat - Sonoma {toposecret} ~10 problems/routes
Geyserville - Sonoma {toposecret} ~25 problems/routes
Mecca/First Falls - Sonoma {toposecret} ~75 problems/routes
TOTAL = 700+ boulder problems and sport or traditional routes up to V10 and 5.13
(~200 FA's to my credit.)
Friday, March 16, 2018
The Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering 2018 Update
Clear Lake/Konocti - Little Black Forest, Big Black Forest, Clear Lake State Park
Clear Lake State Park {{AS OF JANUARY 2019 BOULDERING IS NOT CURRENTLY ALLOWED IN CLEAR LAKE STATE PARK}}
Leprechaun Boulders
51 Little Leprechaun V0 direct from sit start. / VB with big mossy right-hand flake jug. FA=CS
52 Stumped V4 low left sit start. FA=CS
Little Black Forest (aka Old Black Forest)
Black Magic Boulder
1 Black Magic Arete V3 sit start. / V2 stand. FA=CS/SB
2 Black Magic Direct V4 face right of arete - arete is off. FA=CS / Black Foot V6 dyno! FA=AH
3 Black Magic V1 stand start. FA=SB
4 Black Magic Traverse V2 low sit start on right then traverse up left into #3. FA=SB
5 Black Energy Arete!? Overgrown with moss - needs cleaning.
6 Black Magic Slab V0 stand start slab face left of #1.
7 Black Eye V5/6 low left sit start right of down-climb slab up into short bulging pocket face. / stand start on pockets V2/3 or mid sit start V4/5. FA=CS
Black Slab Boulder
8 Black Slab Arete VB fun slab arete left or right side.
9 Black Slab Face V0/1 slab face right of slab arete.
10 Black Moss Face V2 left slab face. Often overgrown with moss. FA=CS
11 Black Moss Traverse V2 left to right / V3 right to left into #10. FA=CS
Black Cat Boulder
12 Black Cat was V4/5 now V5/6? sit start - foothold broke so harder now? / V2/3 stand? FA=CS?
13 Black Panther V4/5 low left stand start into #14. FA=CS / start right of #12 traverse up right into #14. / Black V1 stand start jug pockets go up over short center face.
14 Black Forest Arete V2 stand start right arete. / V3 sit. FA=?
Black Hole Boulder
15 Dark Energy V1 stand start center of face and climb up and over the lip. FA=CS/SB
16 Dark Horse Traverse V3 sit start on right and traverse up left into #15. FA=SB
17 Dark Horse V5 low powerful start up into #15. FA=SB
18 Black and White V1 stand start at notch jug on prow.
19 Black Hole V4 sit start left hand in pocket and right hand below notch, bust a move up right into the notch jug and into #18. FA=CS
20 Black Hole Direct V5 sit start right hand in pocket and left-hand low, make move up right into the notch and into #18. / V5/6 low sit start right hand on edge. FA=CS
21 Black Power V6 low sit start #20 then traverse left into #22 left top out. FA=CS
22 Black and Blue Traverse V5 sit start left side traverse right into #19. / Black and Blue V2 sit start then up short left top out slopers to pockets. FA=CS
23 Black Sheep V0 left or right sit start on small boulder behind Black Hole Boulder.
24 Dark Horse Direct V1/2 start #16 and top out direct. FA=SB
Lost Boulder
25 Lost V4 low tricky sit start up into V1 stand start. Uphill from main boulders. FA=CS
Big Black Forest (aka New Black Forest)
Blackalicious Boulder
26 Blackalicious Arete? Overgrown with moss - needs cleaning.
27 Blackalicious V6 sit start. FA=CS / V4 stand start pocket face. FA=SB Needs cleaning.
Black Bean Boulder
28 Black Label V3 sit start mini cave. / V1 stand start - or Black Label Traverse V4/5 left sit FA=CS - or Black Label Direct - match undercling stand start V4/5? FA=AZ or V5/6? low right start on right-hand sloper rail and left undercling right of the mini-cave (#28) FA=!?
Black Magic Boulder
1 Black Magic Arete V3 sit start. / V2 stand. FA=CS/SB
2 Black Magic Direct V4 face right of arete - arete is off. FA=CS / Black Foot V6 dyno! FA=AH
3 Black Magic V1 stand start. FA=SB
4 Black Magic Traverse V2 low sit start on right then traverse up left into #3. FA=SB
5 Black Energy Arete!? Overgrown with moss - needs cleaning.
6 Black Magic Slab V0 stand start slab face left of #1.
7 Black Eye V5/6 low left sit start right of down-climb slab up into short bulging pocket face. / stand start on pockets V2/3 or mid sit start V4/5. FA=CS
Black Slab Boulder
8 Black Slab Arete VB fun slab arete left or right side.
9 Black Slab Face V0/1 slab face right of slab arete.
10 Black Moss Face V2 left slab face. Often overgrown with moss. FA=CS
11 Black Moss Traverse V2 left to right / V3 right to left into #10. FA=CS
Black Cat Boulder
12 Black Cat was V4/5 now V5/6? sit start - foothold broke so harder now? / V2/3 stand? FA=CS?
13 Black Panther V4/5 low left stand start into #14. FA=CS / start right of #12 traverse up right into #14. / Black V1 stand start jug pockets go up over short center face.
14 Black Forest Arete V2 stand start right arete. / V3 sit. FA=?
Black Hole Boulder
15 Dark Energy V1 stand start center of face and climb up and over the lip. FA=CS/SB
16 Dark Horse Traverse V3 sit start on right and traverse up left into #15. FA=SB
17 Dark Horse V5 low powerful start up into #15. FA=SB
18 Black and White V1 stand start at notch jug on prow.
19 Black Hole V4 sit start left hand in pocket and right hand below notch, bust a move up right into the notch jug and into #18. FA=CS
20 Black Hole Direct V5 sit start right hand in pocket and left-hand low, make move up right into the notch and into #18. / V5/6 low sit start right hand on edge. FA=CS
21 Black Power V6 low sit start #20 then traverse left into #22 left top out. FA=CS
22 Black and Blue Traverse V5 sit start left side traverse right into #19. / Black and Blue V2 sit start then up short left top out slopers to pockets. FA=CS
23 Black Sheep V0 left or right sit start on small boulder behind Black Hole Boulder.
24 Dark Horse Direct V1/2 start #16 and top out direct. FA=SB
Lost Boulder
25 Lost V4 low tricky sit start up into V1 stand start. Uphill from main boulders. FA=CS
Big Black Forest (aka New Black Forest)
Blackalicious Boulder
26 Blackalicious Arete? Overgrown with moss - needs cleaning.
27 Blackalicious V6 sit start. FA=CS / V4 stand start pocket face. FA=SB Needs cleaning.
Black Bean Boulder
28 Black Label V3 sit start mini cave. / V1 stand start - or Black Label Traverse V4/5 left sit FA=CS - or Black Label Direct - match undercling stand start V4/5? FA=AZ or V5/6? low right start on right-hand sloper rail and left undercling right of the mini-cave (#28) FA=!?
29 Black Rail V4 low start or V0 stand start jug rail. FA=CS/SB
30 Black Water V5 stand start vertical pocket face water groove. FA=CS
31 Black Bean V5 low stand start up left. or V4 stand. or low sit V6? / Black Bean Traverse V5 stand - or V6? low stand or V6/7 low sit? - or Black Bean Direct V5 stand start straight up direct. or V5/6 low stand. or V6 low sit. / or Black Bean Face V!? vertical pocket face right of Black Bean!? FA=CS/?
Black Arrow Boulder
32 Black Arrow V3 stand start or V5 sit start FA=CS - or No Waffles For Chris V5/6 stand dyno FA=MW or sit dyno V6 FA=AZ
33 Black Arrow Arete V3 left hand arete V4 low sit - or direct face no arete!? - or Blackness Traverse? traverse slab from left to right into arete(s) FA=CS
34 !? right hand slab arete. FA=JS
35 highball center slab face(s)!?
36 highball left hand slab arete/main arete!?
37 !? high right-hand arete/left side of main arete!?
38 Black Widow V2/3 start at base of arete go up left into Black Widow Slab V0 left slab face. FA=CS
39 ? V1 start Black Sunshine and go right and up slab direct. FA=BN
31 Black Bean V5 low stand start up left. or V4 stand. or low sit V6? / Black Bean Traverse V5 stand - or V6? low stand or V6/7 low sit? - or Black Bean Direct V5 stand start straight up direct. or V5/6 low stand. or V6 low sit. / or Black Bean Face V!? vertical pocket face right of Black Bean!? FA=CS/?
Black Arrow Boulder
32 Black Arrow V3 stand start or V5 sit start FA=CS - or No Waffles For Chris V5/6 stand dyno FA=MW or sit dyno V6 FA=AZ
33 Black Arrow Arete V3 left hand arete V4 low sit - or direct face no arete!? - or Blackness Traverse? traverse slab from left to right into arete(s) FA=CS
34 !? right hand slab arete. FA=JS
35 highball center slab face(s)!?
36 highball left hand slab arete/main arete!?
37 !? high right-hand arete/left side of main arete!?
38 Black Widow V2/3 start at base of arete go up left into Black Widow Slab V0 left slab face. FA=CS
39 ? V1 start Black Sunshine and go right and up slab direct. FA=BN
40 Black Sunshine Slab V0/1 start Black Sunshine end on Black Widow Slab. FA=CS
41 Black Sunshine V3/4 sit start southwest arete - or V0/1 left stand start. FA=CS
Black Keystone Boulder
42 Black Plague V3/4 crimps to jug arete or low start!? FA=CS
Black Keystone Boulder
42 Black Plague V3/4 crimps to jug arete or low start!? FA=CS
43 Serious Black!? steep face over bad rocky landing.
44 Blackout V4 start in right hand pocket and left hand undercling side pull - go up! FA=CS
45 Black Eyed Peas V4 FA=CS
44 Blackout V4 start in right hand pocket and left hand undercling side pull - go up! FA=CS
45 Black Eyed Peas V4 FA=CS
46 Black Keystone V1 sit start holes go up easy high slab face past the keystone hold. FA=CS
47 Black n Tan V2 stand start right side go up into Black Keystone. FA=CS
48 Black Ops V4 sit start small boulder below Serious Black. FA=CS
49 ?
50 ?
Clear Lake State Park {{AS OF JANUARY 2019 BOULDERING IS NOT CURRENTLY ALLOWED IN CLEAR LAKE STATE PARK}}
Leprechaun Boulders
51 Little Leprechaun V0 direct from sit start. / VB with big mossy right-hand flake jug. FA=CS
52 Stumped V4 low left sit start. FA=CS
53 Shenanigans V? left side face of Shamrock!?
54 Shamrock V2 semi high semi-classic up center of boulder. FA=CS
55 Sham Jam V0 crack corner arete right side of Shamrock - downclimb.
Campsite 110
56 Camp Crack V0 sit start short splitter crack in tight corridor. / VB stand start. FA=CS
57 110 Arete V2 sorta high, sorta classic left arete. FA=CS
58 420 Face V1 stand start on gritty sloper jug in high corner. / V!? sit start low jug shelf project!?
59 Camp Clown V2 sit starts. / V0 fun right or scary left finish. FA=CS
60 Camp Fire V2 sit start scrunchy right side of boulder. FA=CS
Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo
54 Shamrock V2 semi high semi-classic up center of boulder. FA=CS
55 Sham Jam V0 crack corner arete right side of Shamrock - downclimb.
Campsite 110
56 Camp Crack V0 sit start short splitter crack in tight corridor. / VB stand start. FA=CS
57 110 Arete V2 sorta high, sorta classic left arete. FA=CS
58 420 Face V1 stand start on gritty sloper jug in high corner. / V!? sit start low jug shelf project!?
59 Camp Clown V2 sit starts. / V0 fun right or scary left finish. FA=CS
60 Camp Fire V2 sit start scrunchy right side of boulder. FA=CS
Black Forest - Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo
Thursday, March 1, 2018
Schoolhouse Rock AKA The Schoolhouse
*=ok **=good ***=great ****=local classic *****=world classic
Left to Right:
1 "The Bird is The Werd" 5.12a/b* 2 bolts to 1 bolt anchor. FA=CS
2 "Toll Taker" 5.12b/c**** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=CS
3 5.12/13 project - start #4 angle up left into #2 - TR!?
4 "Dry Line" 5.12c/d**** 3 bolts to 1 bolt rain anchor or 4 bolts to left anchor {stays dry in most rain storms} - or up right to lip anchor!? (both 2 bolt anchors) FA-TR=CB FA-Lead=CS
5 5.12/13 project - white streak between #4 and #6!?
6 5.12/13 project - bolt line left of #7!?
7 "Solar Flare" 5.12a/b** TR/Top Rope line left of #8 (shared anchor). FA=RT
8 "Solar Catastrophe" 5.12a/b*** 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=RT
9 "P.E." 5.10* clip #10 anchor then traverse left to #7/#8 anchor. FA=CS
10 "Recess" 5.9 1 bolt to 1 bolt anchor - mossy far right face. FA=CS
Schoolhouse Rock - YOUTUBE
"Toll Taker" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE
"Solar Catastrophe" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE
Left to Right:
1 "The Bird is The Werd" 5.12a/b* 2 bolts to 1 bolt anchor. FA=CS
2 "Toll Taker" 5.12b/c**** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=CS
3 5.12/13 project - start #4 angle up left into #2 - TR!?
4 "Dry Line" 5.12c/d**** 3 bolts to 1 bolt rain anchor or 4 bolts to left anchor {stays dry in most rain storms} - or up right to lip anchor!? (both 2 bolt anchors) FA-TR=CB FA-Lead=CS
5 5.12/13 project - white streak between #4 and #6!?
6 5.12/13 project - bolt line left of #7!?
7 "Solar Flare" 5.12a/b** TR/Top Rope line left of #8 (shared anchor). FA=RT
8 "Solar Catastrophe" 5.12a/b*** 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. FA=RT
9 "P.E." 5.10* clip #10 anchor then traverse left to #7/#8 anchor. FA=CS
10 "Recess" 5.9 1 bolt to 1 bolt anchor - mossy far right face. FA=CS
Schoolhouse Rock - YOUTUBE
"Solar Catastrophe" 5.12FA - YOUTUBE
Friday, February 23, 2018
Bouldering/Climbing in Santa Rosa CA 2018
The Cobblestone
Cobblestone
Bum Hill
Warm Up Boulders
~V0-V3ish FA's=CS
Happy Hour Boulder
"Happy Hour" V4/5 local classic squat start on detached block FA=CS - or direct low start!?
"Strangiato" V0 stand start far left mantle ledge/shelf FA=CS
"?" V3/4 far right scrunchy low sit - or V1 stand start FA=RT
Rock Quarry/Dynamite Cave
Original Boulder
"Old Style" V2 sit start V1 stand start - epoxied old school classic FA=DS
"Pink Belly"? sit start left arete no epoxied rocks - project!? or V2 stand start.
Dynamite Cave
"Dynamite Cave?" 5.11TR local classic face FA=RT or 5.11 face direct - or arete direct!?
Summits Block
"Summits Arete" V5/6 sit start classic sculpted arete to lip FA=CS or low right sit!?
V0/1 stand start arete/lip FA=CS
"?" direct arete/lip sit to slab!?
Spring Lake
"Springtime" V1 FA=CS?
"Spring Chicken" V0 old/original local classic FA=? - or "Spring Fling Traverse" V2 FA=CS
"Springboard" V4 FA=CS
Fountaingrove
!!??
Flat Rock
!?
Annadel
!?
"Happy Hour" V4/5
"Summits Arete" V5/6
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