Swallow Rock - Dos Rios/Mendocino County CA.

   

 

               

Swallow Rock - Main Face
(Potentially ~10+ sport/trad routes + ~100+ boulder problems.)

0000? short face/prow? ~25'?

000? short 3 bolt face to bolt anchor. ~35'

00 Swallow Crack V0R splitter highball boulder crack! ~25' FA=CS?

0? ~5.10? short face? ~25'?

1 Snakecharmer 5.11 short thin crack/trad lead or tr. Pro to 1.5" ~25' FA=CS

2 Green Slab 5.9 3 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~25 FA=JM/CS - ground up

3 Black Slab 5.11 7 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~45' FA=JM/CS - ground up

4 Eagle Feather Arete (aka Hard to Swallow) 5.12 7 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~45' FA=CS

5 Covelocos Corner 5.10 splitter dihedral corner crack/trad lead or tr - bolted A0 from the anchor of Black Slab and Eagle Feather Arete to 5.10 anchor. Pro to 3.5" ~55' FA=JG(tr)/KR(lead)

6? ~5.?? face/arete? ~55'?

7? ~5.?? face/corner? ~65'?

8? !?

9? !?

10 Swallow Traverse V0 traverse the base of the main face.

Swallow Boulders
Bomb Ass Dookie V4+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Can of Whoop Ass V5+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Bomb Ass Traverse V6+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Bomb Ass Arete V3+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Tricks Are For Kids V5 stand or V8 sit FA=CS-V5/KJ-V8 - or V8/9 low sit!?
Firestarter V4 sit start overhang on beach - V3 stand start (sand levels for sit start fluctuate - V6/7 when sand is high FA=MW) FA=CS/SB?
Firestarter Traverse V5 FA=CS
Firecracker V1
Jade Dome tilted/shifted - steeper and shorter now was V3 now V!?
Jaded V4 stand or V7/8 low start FA=CS-V4/RC-V7/8
Emerald Triangle V3 stand start face/arete or V5 sit or Gnar Gnar V7 low sit FA=CS
Shady Cave Traverse V6 FA=CS
Made in the Shade V5 FA=CS
Christal Gaston V4 FA=CS
Skywalker V3 FA=RE
? V3? right of Skywalker. FA=CS
The Blob V3R sit or V2R stand FA=CS
? stand into traverse rail. FA=CS
Uprising V5/6 FA=CS
? highball or tr or lead!? seam crack bulge!?
Skyhook V5 and Skyhawk V6 FA=RE-V5/CS-V6
R.T. V6 FA=RT
Elbow Grease V4 FA=CS
Jack Move V1 stand V2? sit FA=E?
Jackal Traverse V3? FA=CS
Apocalypse V6 FA=RT
Captain Crunch V2 or V4
Breakfast of Champions V2
Lumpy Face V0
Lumpy Traverse V1
V!? arete project
Eyes of a Tire Hub aka Unborn V8/9 inverted offwidth roof crack squeeze chimney! FA=EW
Don't You Want Knee Baby V3 inverted offwidth roof crack. FA=EW
VB/0
V0/1
V1/2
V2/3
V3/4
V4/5
V5/6
V8/9/10!?
!!??

Chuck B onsight flash second ascent of 

"Eagle Feather Arete" 5.12a (aka "Hard To Swallow")

Swallow Rock, Dos Rios CA.

Bay Area Lowball Bouldering

*DISCLAIMER: BOULDERING IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
When I'm teaching beginner and intermediate level climbers how to do basic "roped climbing"; set up top rope anchors, place protection and even do mock lead climbs in my guiding classes I always ask everyone if they do bouldering (bouldering is climbing without a rope near the ground). About half of my clients say no they don't boulder and this is odd to me because bouldering is how you learn and practice how to move over stone. If you can't move over stone and climb a 5-10ft tall boulder safely then roped climbing is going to be much harder and in turn, more dangerous. Too many people think bouldering is all about doing risky high boulders "highballs" with no rope obviously and taking big falls, but it is not only about that, bouldering can be done safely. I find it funny/sad how many of my friends and acquaintances do roped climbing (sport or trad) and do not boulder and even think bouldering is dangerous and kind of a thing for young folks or for daredevils when I think they are the crazy risk takers and basically ignorant to the reality of how dangerous roped climbing is. If something goes wrong roped climbing there is a huge chance you will die, if something goes wrong bouldering you might sprain an ankle or break a leg, which would you prefer? Of course no rock climbing is ever totally safe but neither is mountain biking or surfing or most sports. Hell, driving is usually more dangerous than the bouldering I do nowadays which is mostly "lowballs" over my 9 bouldering pads. Although I do a lot of first ascents which has its own risks involved, mainly breaking holds which has made me a master of pad placement to be prepared for a fall from anywhere on the problem since I've learned that even the most seemingly solid holds can break. Usually if a hold is going to break it is going to break the first time it is weighted on a first ascent, or soon thereafter, so I am kind of a crash test pilot/dummy lol.

It is possible to find and safely do boulders that are "lowballs" (lowballs are problems usually about head height up to about double the height of the person doing them) and usually have flat landings. With the use of pads/multiple pads placed in the correct places and moved by a spotter if needed, as well as using a spotter that knows how to spot and when to spot or get out of the way and not spot most lowballs can be done very safely and IMO are much safer than traditional climbing and even sport climbing and top roping. With roped climbing people feel safe but I feel it is a false sense of safety that leads to complacency - and complacency kills. With roped climbing if just one thing goes wrong; top anchor or lead protection gear failure, rope failure, harness failure, belayer failure, fall onto a ledge, pendulum fall, rockfall from above, broken holds, weather/rain or snow or hail storm, heat stroke, darkness etc.. if any one of those things goes wrong it could result in the need for a rescue, and/or a serious injury or death. Statistical probability simply adds into the equation and eventually your luck will run out or you will simply make a mistake and in roped climbing you usually have the ultimate risk of being paralyzed or very often certain death. In bouldering, especially near the car as many bouldering areas are, if pads and spotters are used properly and a lowball boulder problem is chosen wisely with a good/flat landing zone, and egos are kept in check and people are realistic about their abilities or lack of as well as their partners abilities or lack of, then most all of those risks that roped climbing has are minimized if not totally eliminated.

For me bouldering is the safest and most fun style of climbing and at the same time the most difficult and extreme - it is the most badass sport on Earth in my not so humble opinion - so go bouldering!! But if you get hurt don't blame me or usually anyone but yourself, it can be very dangerous, the most dangerous along with free soloing if not done realistically and safely. I have been bouldering up to V10 for 30 years with ~1000 first ascents under my belt and I have had nothing more than a few sprained ankles and wrists. If you do hurt yourself it is your own fault for not preparing properly and for not being ready for the problem you try and for not being real and honest with yourself - basically, you were unlucky and/or you were stupid and/or you suck :)

So, choose the location you want to boulder wisely, take the proper precautions and be truthful to yourself about your abilities and everything SHOULD be fine.

Check out V18 Rentals for bouldering pads if you don't own one or more.

And check out this video where Adam Ondra, the best all around climber in the world currently mentions that "bouldering is essential training for any kind of climbing, it is the base, everybody needs that" and for those of us that love just pure bouldering for the sake of bouldering it is a religion.
Adam Ondra - Road To Tokyo YOUTUBE

Here is a short list of some Bay Area/NorCal bouldering areas and boulder problems that are considered lowballs and/or considered less dangerous than most other problems in the area due to low height, flat or sandy landings and fairly easy top-outs and walk-offs or down-climbs:

Castle Rock has a few fun lowballs spread around Magoos and elsewhere from about VB-V10.

Indian Rock has some good lowballs on the roadside boulders and the slab across Indian Rock Ave ~VB-V6 with a few of my favorites being right over the sidewalk like "The Ape" V1-V3.

Mortar Rock has the classic lowball testpieces "Stans Traverse" V8 and "Marks Traverse" V11.

Turtle Rock has some lowball-ish problems and most of the traverse is very low to the ground and moderately hard ~VB-V6.

Stinson Beach has a lot of low to medium height problems with often flat sandy landings.

Goat Rock/Sunset Boulders have some good lowball problems in the front area ~VB-V6.

Super Slab has several lowballs in the V4-V8 range with "Super Slab" V6, "Abalone" V7, "Super Abalone" V8 and "Bulls on Parade" V8 being the main lowball classics. There are also a few good VB-V2 problems.

Sugarloaf Ridge has some good fun lowball problems in the VB-V6 range.

Vacaville/Nut Tree Boulders have some good lowball to medium height problems with flat landings.

Dos Rios has some good lowball problems in the VB-V8 range.

The Philosophers Castle

TOPOSECRET ~new~ Lake County volcanic boulders :)

Fractal Boulder
1 "Fractal Geometry"?
2 "Geometrix"?
3 ?
Playtos Slab
4 "?" V4 short steep roof behind main slab direct straight up. FA=RT or bail left. FA=CS
5 VB/0 slab left. FA=CS
6 "Wonky" VB slab chimney crack - or "Wonky Traverse" traverse from right sit start to left high or low.
7 "Playtos Slab" VB main highball slab prow - or direct slab face? FA=CS
8 "Playtos Traverse" VB/0 slab traverse high - or V1/2? low from sit of main slab prow? FA=CS
9 slab face right?
10 ?
11 ?
The Philosopher Boulder
12 "?" steep face over ledge. FA=RT
13 "Aristotle"? highball slab arete/prow?
14 "The Philosopher" V1 clean dike slab face. FA=CS
15 VB- slab corner crack. FA=CS
16 face right of corner?
17 ?
Socrates Boulder
18 "The Professor" V2/3 steep left bulge - or direct eliminate splitter finger crack bulge!? FA=CS
19 "Professor X" V2/3 steep center crack face. FA=CS
20 "Socratease"? V4/5 steep short right mid sit - or low sit!? FA=CS/?
21 "Mutant Traverse"?
22 ?
Fundamental Boulder
23 "Fundamental"?
24 "Snake Oil"?
25 ?

2018/2019 - first ascents and life etc..

2019 marks my 30th year rock climbing and about my 27th year doing first ascents. For the last ~20 years finding and doing first ascents has been my driving force. In 2018 I did ~50fa’s compared to ~75fa’s in 2017. In the last year first ascents have become less of my focus for the first time since I started doing them and it feels weird. Having done ~1000 boulder, sport and even a few trad climbing first ascents since I started relentlessly hunting for them about 20 years ago it’s relaxing to take a break now. I’ve discovered about half of the first ascents at old areas and the other half at entirely new rocks. All have been within about a 2 hour drive of my home in Santa Rosa. To find new rocks I usually have to drive further than an easy day trip. I also get tired of the same local drives and scenery so it’s harder now to find new spots that inspire me. So for me it’s time to just repeat more classics and get back in shape before I get too old lol. It’s also time to work more and just do other things like hiking, mtn biking and the dreaded (but o so fun gym “training” ugh:) as well as more time hanging out with my family and friends. Hopefully 2019 will bring more of all that as well as less stress and worry. I hope we all have a healthy, happy and prosperous new year!

TOPO SECRET Mammoth Cave

For histories sake and for anyone that can find and make it into the top secret world class steep waterfall sporting Jedi meditation Mammoth Cave of Sonoma County/Northern California here is the list of problems:

*From the same stand start near the base of the large/main cave there are 3 original lines (#2-4) and 2 link ups (#5-6) that I know of and maybe even a few more link ups/variations - I will ask for more beta and post it if I get it.


1 "Mammoth Warm Up" V4 aka The Warm Up - stand start at large eyeball shaped bat hang rest hueco/hole about 2/3 of the way up the main cave and go up straight up/up right then up left through large holes to dual natural thread pocket finish. Or V4/5 from start on rail just below eyeball hueco. FA=KA
2 "The Savage" ~V7/8 or ~5.13a stand start at base and go straight up/up right along back of cave to stand start at large eyeball shaped bat hang rest hueco/hole and go up straight up/up right then up left through large holes to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. FA=KA
3 "The Oracle" ~V8 or ~5.13a/b stand start at base and go straight up/direct staying left of eyeball hueco bat rest to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. FA=KA
4 "Tribal Rights" ~V8/9 or ~5.13b/c stand start at base and go up left along high side of cave next to waterfall and go up straight up/up left (same finish as The Oracle/or similar) to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. (~there might be another line more to the left/closer to waterfall but it would be higher up~) FA=KA
5 "Oracle-Savage" ~V8 maybe the best line in the main cave although they are all world class imo - stand start at base and go straight up/direct then right into rail (V4/5 warm up) into large eyeball shaped bat hang rest hueco/hole and go up straight up/up right then up left through large holes to dual natural thread pocket finish about 10ft from top of main cave. FA=CB
6 "Savage-Oracle" ~V8 stand start Savage then finish Oracle with no eyeball hueco bat hang rest. FA=CS
7 "The Sorcerer" ~V6 stand start at rail below eyeball hueco bat rest then traverse up and left into the dual natural thread pockets finish (same finish as #1-6). FA=CS
8 "Mammoth Extension" ~V7 stand start at dual natural thread pocket finish. FA=KA
9 "Chill Cave" ~V6 stand start at right side of pillar and go up right to final good pocket in the smaller cave where most people chill (~V6 sit at or near #10 sit) - or "Full Chill Cave" ~V7 stand start about 15ft left on the pillar about 10ft above the dual natural thread pockets and traverse/climb up right into the V6 start. FA=CS
10 "Mammoth Roof" ~V5 stand start and go straight up and out roof in center of pillar between the main cave and the chill cave and bust moves direct out roof to jug finish - or ~V6 sit start. FA=SB
11 ~V6/7/8? sit start below base of 2-6 and link into #2-6 or #12-13!!??
12 V!? do #2-6 into #8!?
13 V!!?? do #11 into #2-6!!??
14 """Full Mammoth Cave!?""" V!!!??? do #13 into #9/Full Chill Cave!!!???
15 !?!?!?

Fort Ross Boulder(s) History 2018

Richie Esquibel sending a lap on the original classic main arete on the main block "Living A Dream" which was V5 before the starting rock sunk into the sand and is now started lower at about V6/7~

The world class Fort Ross sandstone boulders on the Pacific Coast of Sonoma County California have one of the best V6's in the world and a few other ultra mega classic lines. There are only about 50 boulder problems total counting the main block and South and North Coves but the plumb lines on the main boulder are tried and true classics. "Fort Rossta" V6 sit start is the center line up the steep high face of the main boulder. Here is the history of this precious area:


It all started when local climbers ventured north from the popular Sunset Boulders at Goat Rock State Park past what was at the time a new climbing and bouldering area, Dry Creek Sea Crag aka The Sea Crag to explore and establish the sandstone of Salt Point State Park. The sandstone was mostly thought of as too sandy and crumbly for high quality lines but in the summer any new stone on the cool local coastline was the place to be. The first climbs were top rope or traditional and were few and far between. Avid local climbing pioneer Mark Howe had found and done some easy to moderate climbs at Sea Crag and Salt Point then myself with Ryan Padgett did the first official boulder problem on the Northern Sonoma County Coast sandstone, "Walk The Plank to the Burning Vise Grip of Love" aka "Vise Grip" V3/4 at what would later be named Shroomland. Then for a year or so the sandstone sat mostly untouched as it had in the past until a new local climber Richie Esquibel who lived closer to the coast than most all of the other local climbers hiked down to check out a boulder we had all seen as we drove past but thought the sandstone on the waters edge is likely too wet and soft/crumbly - doh!! We were all so very wrong, all except Richie. Being new to climbing with only a year or more of climbing experience the best line (best at that time), the highball main right arete was a bit tough as a first ascent for him so he got our friend and local bad ass Marcos Nunez to come try it with him. Marcos spent his winters on the road climbing and bouldering at Joshua Tree and Hueco Tanks so he was strong, skilled and experienced and knocked it out quickly. He first did it from the stand start on the rock that used to stick out of the sand but has since sunk away. He named it "Living A Dream" V5. Within about a week or so my friend and main climbing partner at the time Shawn Rogers heard about it and he and I met Richie and Marcos and his strong and talented girlfriend and climbing partner Bonnie there and we all repeated it that day or soon after. I can't remember exactly but I think we worked the center face up into the main arete "Living A Dream" from a couple starts with the main line at that time being Richie's (now almost forgotten and lost in the sands of time) "Shazinky" V8 that sit started low on the "ball" hold (RIP ball:( and angling up right into the arete. This line was not the path of least resistance but it was direct and hard. The path of least resistance was to do the same start but use the sloper ledge above to cut a hard right and traverse up into the main arete which was about a grade easier but was not direct and as hard as "Shazinky".

That was mostly it for Fort Ross for about another year or so until Marcos cleaned a loose block off the sloper ledge in the middle of the center face opening up the jug stand start to the center face with the rad dynamic deadpoint move from the jug up left to a perfect campus board size edge and past the big rails to the top apex of the boulder that is now the mega classic "Fort Rossta". The sit start would go down soon and we can't remember for sure who got it, either Marcos, Richie or me. As Richie recalls the sand was much higher back then and the sit start was very butt dragger anso he thinks I got the sit first (since I love butt-dragger lowballs lol) and I like that idea :) but we can't be sure. Now it is no longer a butt-drager lowball start). We used to use a different reachier sequence until a shorter person, possibly Bonnie made up the less reachy left sequence with the edges that is now the most popular way for everyone and especially since the "ball" hold broke forcing the moves up left now for the most part. Soon after that the "Left Arete" was done, I think I got it first but I/we can't really remember. Then I did the full traverse from far right around the main arete/"Living A Dream" and down the first crux of the center face to the far left and up the "Left Arete" to finish - "Rossta Traverse" V8 (~unrepeated and likely much harder or impossible currently?) since the ball broke and possibly holds on the "Left Arete"(??). Not too long after that I worked the low right sit start up into "Living A dream" for what I called "Living La Vida Loca" V8 not knowing that around the same time or sooner Russ Bobzien and his friend Jason Hicks did the same or similar start up into the main arete and up right into one of the original moderate lines "Swiss Cheese". So we can't be sure if Russ or myself got the first ascent of those, so we will share the FA credit. After "Loca" I linked it into the traverse for "Living La Vida Smoka" aka "Smoka" V9 (~also unrepeated and likely much harder or impossible currently?) About that time the Berkeley/Bay Area crews nicknamed the center face "Fort Rossta" which we were just calling "Fort Ross Face" since Marcos in his reticent style never named it. Around this time Charlie Barrett did the dyno from the jug on "Fort Rossta" skipping the left edge and throwing up right to the big rails below the top for his FA "Flying Monkey" V8. Another shared FA we found out about later was by Jim Thornburg, a good friend of Marcos' who did the stand start of the center face up right into the arete and called it "Rossta Dreams" either just before or just after I had done the sit start "Living A Nightmare" - I like his name better for the whole line so it is a shared FA by Jim and I and can be called either "Living A Nightmare" or "Rossta Dreams" - my name made sense before the name "Fort Rossta" was given to the center face but now his name is more obvious and has a peaceful NorCal rasta vibe ;)

Then the boulder stayed the way it was for another year or so until the rock at the base of "Living A Dream" sunk into the sand and disappeared (making Living A Dream harder from lower starts now ~V6/7). The sand levels continue to get lower and lower which opened up the direct low low sit start to the main arete which many locals raced for but strong and talented local Ryan Tolentino who lived nearby would get first ascent of and named "Grand Finale" (now mistakenly called "Relentless") and gave it V9. After that Ryan did "Grand Finale" into the "Rossta Traverse" and called that "Relentless" V10/11 but since the traverse was a mega link-up with a down-climb section it was not very popular and people began to call the best hardest plumb line low sit start up into the proud main arete "Relentless" and bumped it up to V10. So the traverse link-up Ryan did would've likely been V11 making it one of the hardest lines in Sonoma County at the time. The only other ~V11ish (or harder~) line at that time was to do a lap (down and back no stepping off) of Marcos' "Hard Traverse" V10 at Sunset Boulders/Mammoth Rocks in Goat Rock State Park which is likely also about V11. The only problems on the Sonoma Coast that are harder are Giovanni Traversi's new V12 and V13 test-pieces at Salt Point State Park other than those Fort Ross still holds the best quality and most challenging full value lines on the Sonoma Coast.

World class climber and boulderer, Santa Rosa local Carlo Traversi said something like;
"Fort Rossta" is one of the closest type stones to South African/Rocklands sandstone with big moves on solid features but since it is on the beach it is possibly the best/one of the best V6's in the world.

{I heard a hold(s) may have broken on the "Left Arete" and that it has not gone since the breakage but I have not been there recently to know for sure~}


As a sidenote;
The day Shawn Rogers and I first bouldered at Fort Ross we decided that if that random sandstone block was that good maybe we should explore some of the other rocks we drove past on the Northern Sonoma Coast on our way home so we stopped at a slabby looking schist boulder that Mark Howe had told us about and named "Not So Super Slab" where he had done the main high but easy VB/0 slab face and a few other moderates and see what we could scrounge up - we scored! With a little cleaning and landscaping Shawn and I over the next few years, along with David Wallach later on opened up many short to medium length steep technical lines from V0 to V9 and quickly dropped the "Not So" from the name and began calling it "Super Slab".


With so much high quality and varied types of stone in Sonoma County it's no wonder why so many top level climbers/boulderers are from here, Kevin Jorgeson, Carlo Traversi, Giovanni Traversi, Charlie Barrett, Jason Campbell, Marcos Nunez and Sean Brady just to name a few. About half of our rocks are publicly accessible but the other half and a lot of the best spots are unfortunately on private property and/or have access issues and are therefore hidden secrets so it may not look like we have a plethora of stone in print or that you can easily see from the roads or trails but it is out there and we are very very lucky :))


"Fort Rossta" V6 YouTube

"Flying Monkey" V8 YouTube

"Living La Vida Loca" V8 YouTube

First Falls Reborn!!

First Falls ~100 problems at ~3 zones!!

First Falls - Downstream/Swimming Hole (original/old school)
The Reef Boulder
1 Reefer Madness left arete next to main swimming hole FA=CS
2 Reefer Man left or right center face lines next to main swimming hole FA=CS
3 The Reefer right side of main face off flat rock next to main swimming hole FA=CS
4 Reef Leap next to main swimming hole FA=RT/DKL??
5 Reefer Traverse? next to main swimming hole.
6 ?
7 ?

Beachside Boulder
8 Beachside V3 FA=DKL
9 Beach House V6 FA=DKL
10 ?

Rhino Boulder
11 Rhinoplasty V4/5 sloper stand start FA=CS V5/6 sit?
12 ?

????
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?


First Falls - Upstream/Main Area (new)
Clutch Boulder
1 Skunk Train Traverse V1 below road/trailhead FA=JC/MR
2 Pepe Le Pew V3? sit start bulge up right - or up left - or link up(s)? below trail FA=JC/MR

Upstream Slab?
3 left slab
4 left arete/face
5 right arete face
6 traverse

Lawnmower Boulder
7 V1/2 rail traverse FA=JC?
8 Lawnmower Traverse V1 FA=JC/MR
9 Lawnmower Man V4/5 FA=CS
10 Lawnmower Direct V1 dead point - or V2 dyno to top? FA=CS?
11 The Lawnmower V0 FA=JC/MR
12 Lawnmower Roof V1 FA=JS?
13 ?

The Island
14 VB easy slab up/downclimb - or The Downclimb Dyno V1 dyno from start jug to top jug(s)!
15 Under the Bridge V1 or Over the Bridge V3 FA=JC?
16 The Island Arete V4 stand start classic left arete FA=JC or sit start FA=CS
17 Pork Chop V3 sit start center face V1 stand - or slots (between left arete-center face)? FA=JC
18 Amphibious V5/6 sit start classic right arete or V1/2 stand start FA=JC
19 sit start #18 up left into #17?
20 sit start #18 then traverse up left into #16!?
21 sit start #17 traverse up right into #18
22 V1 stand start face bulge right side of arete right of #18 - or hard low sit start!?
23 Lonely Island V3 sit start undercling sidepulls left of center on east face FA=CS
24 Knee Barrio V4/5 low knee bar sit start or V3/4 sit - center east face FA=JC/CS
25 Knee Pootie? sit start Knee Barrio and finish Pootie Tang?
26 Pootie Tang V3 sit start right arete - or V1 stand FA=JC
27 Pootie Tang Traverse V4 sit start #25 up left into #23 FA=CS
28 easy face/slab right of #20 and left of dws.
29 dws face FA=JC?
30 dws traverse FA=JC?
31 ?
32 ?

Gods Stone
33 V5? mega classic high arete/prow!? FA=RT??
34 Arnold Bomber V2/3? thin clean vertical face FA=JC/MR
35 Cat Piss V4 short steep bulge over rocky pit - stand start FA=CS / sit FA=!?
36 Zen V3 FA=CS - or Zen Buddha V3/4 traverse into from Buddha Belly?
37 The Atheist V1 stand start sculpted stemming scoop or V1/2 sit FA=JC
or Atheist Direct V2 low right sit FA=M? or Atheist Traverse V3 sit start at Buddha Belly FA=CS
38 Frog Goddess V5/6 mid-height diagonal traverse from Atheist low into Buddha Belly. FA=AB
39 Buddha Belly V4 low sit start on shelf up over sculpted bulge FA=CS
40 ?

????
41 Clovis Point V2 squat start short cutter arete opposite #33 FA=CS - or sit start?
42 short arete just uphill from east face of Gods Stone. FA=JC?
43 arete slab on hillside above east face of Gods Stone. FA=?
44 lip traverse on short boulder just upstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
45 corner/arete on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
46 slab face(s) on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
47 short steep red chert boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
48 arete next to big boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=JC?
49 high arete on big boulder downstream from The Island Boulder FA=!?
50 high face on boulder just downstream from The Island Boulder FA=!?
51 ?
52 ?
53 ?
54 ?
55 ?


First Falls - Upstream/Middle Zone (cliff routes!?)
1 arete - drop off shelf V3/4 - or top out highball V!? FA=?
2 high crack/face left of arete!? (route??)
3 face(s) FA=JC?
4 VB traverse over water.
5 left arete (route?)
6 left layback face (route?)
7 face/prow (route?)
8 (route??)
9 (route??)
10 (route??)
11 Cellophane V2/3 low stand start FA=JS or V3/4 low sit start FA=CS/JS
12 Plastic Wrap V2/3 low right sit start up into Cellophane FA=CS
14 The Arm Pit V0/1 short boulder over rocky pit FA=CS
15 Get Lippy V2 lowball lip traverse sculpted stone FA=CS/SL
16 steep face next to waterfall!?
17 short bulge up right? - or up left?
18 short bulge backside?
19 slab face next to waterfall?
20 Impermanence V2/3? short/medium high steep red chert stone FA=JC?
21 ? semi high left arete FA=JS
22 high face right of left arete!?
23 face arete just above/next to left arete?
24 ?
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
29 ?
30 ?


Google Photo Album - First Falls/Sulfur Creek

First Falls playlist YouTube