Thursday, July 21, 2022

Santa Rosa area climbing bouldering 2022

Rock Climbing & Bouldering within ~45min drive of Santa Rosa CA/Session Climbing Gym {~500+ boulder problems/climbs VB-V11 // 5.5-5.13}

PUBLIC ACCESS:

Spring Lake/Howarth Park = 5 problems V0-V4~ (+park climbing wall)

Sugarloaf Ridge Park = 200 boulder problems/climbs VB-V10/5.5-5.12/13~

Frog Woman Rock = 50 climbs/boulder problems VB-V6/5.10-5.12

Untamed Rocks = 10 climbs/boulder problems V0-V11R/5.10-5.12

Twin Peaks-DWS = 5 climbs/boulder problems 5.10-5.12 DWS

Dutch Bill Boulder/Boho Boulders = 30 climbs/boulder problems V0-V11


TOPO-SECRET - Inside of Santa Rosa city limits:

Villa Boulders = Happy Hour V4 FA=CS + Villa Chilla V1 FA=DW/CS

Montecito Boulders = Dominion V1/V2 FA=DS + Summits Arete V6 FA=CS + Dominatrix V2/V4 FA=CS + /V!? direct low sit FA=!? + Brush Geek 5.10 TR/solo FA=RT

Cobblestone Boulder = Cobble Wobble V5 + Cobble Wobble Traverse V6 FA=CS + Cobblestone Arete V2 FA=DS + Cobblestone Mantle V2/V4 sit FA=DS + Cobblestone Traverse V6 FA=RT


TOPO-SECRET - Outside of Santa Rosa city limits:

Alpine Rock = The Alpinist V1R FA=CS + The Masochist V5 FA=CS + Alpine Stem V1 FA=CS + Alpine Scramble 5.5 ++ 5.6-5.11-12TR/Lead // 5.13TR roof/prow project!?

Reptile Rocks = Reptilian V2 FA=RT + Reptile Traverse V2 FA=CS

Green Cave = Mean Green Traverse V8 FA=CS + Killer Green Traverse V6 FA=CS + KGB V4/V5 sit FA=JC/CS + Killer Green V0/V3 traverse FA=CS + Green Machine V3/V5 FA=CS + White Widow V5 FA=CB + Bobzien Machine V6 FA=RB + Verm's Variation V4 FA=Verm + Seans Problem V3 FA=SB + Kevins Sit V7 FA=KJ + The Influencer V9 FA=VA + V10 traverse!? FA=KJ?

Indian Cave = Wappo Wall V1-V4 + Sitting Bull V4 FA=CS + Indian Cave V4 FA=CS + Bull in a China Shop V6 FA=MS + The Wrong Way V6 FA=KM + "bullfighter project" V!!?? ++ TR/Lead - old historic dirty weird rope routes!?! :)

Tombstone Rock = Tombstone Arete 5.11a / 5.11b/c / 5.11c/d FA=DS + 5.12-13TR/Lead FA=RT + Tombstoned V4 stand V5 sit FA=CS//The Hunger V7 low sit FA=CS + The Tombstone V0 stand/V1 sit /V3 sit direct/V4 or V6 eliminate dynos + Tombstone Traverse V2/V4/V6 FA=DS/CS + Nailed It V1/V4 sit FA=DS/CS + Grave Cave V6 FA=DS + Grave Cave Traverse V4 FA=CS 

Postwood Boulders = V0-V5 FA=RT/CS

Stagecoach Boulders = V0-V6 FA=DS/CS

Safari West Boulders = V0-V7 FA=AC/CS

Rincon Ridge/Los Alamos = V5 FA=RT + V5 FA=KW

Nuns Canyon = V1-V6/7? FA=CJ/ED

First Falls = V0-V6/7? FA=J/J/CS















Monday, July 11, 2022

Asteroid Boulders














Asteroid Boulders

Asteroid Boulder

1 "Assteroid" V1 mantle asteroid knobs - "Meteor" V3 left start lip rail into mantle FA=CS

2 "space ghost direct"? V5/6? start #1 up right into direct top out?

3 "Space Ghost" V6 start #1 up right into #10 FA=CS - "universe traverse"? V6/7? start Meteor?

4 "Heelhookers Guide to the Galaxy" V6 low start up left into #1 FA=CS - V6/7? direct?

5 "heelhooker direct"? V6/7? low start straight up direct?

6 "heelhookers guide to the universe"? V7? start #1 into #10?

7 low sit start into #1!?

8 low sit start direct!?

9 low sit start into #10!?

10 "Comet" V2 far right stand start FA=DH

11 "Milky Way Traverse" V7 sit #2 - V6 stand start traverse slopers right into #1 FA=CS

12 "multiverse traverse"? V8/9!? #3 sit start then traverse far left into #10!?

13 "Space Walk" V5 start #10 traverse down and left into #1 FA=CS

14 "Cosmic" V2 far left face stand start flat knob FA=CS

15 "Space Monkey" V5 sit start knobs - "Space Cadet" V3 stand start FA=CS

16 "Orbit" V4 match hand stand start - V5 mid start V2 high jug lip start FA= CS low start!?

17 "Space Frog" V6 left bulge low start FA=CS

18 "zero g"? V2/3? center bulge stand start mantle? - low start!?

19 "?" V1/2? right bulge direct up from start of Meteor?

20 "?" V0/1/2? traverse on small boulder uphill FA=DH

21 ??

22 ??

23 ??

24 ??

Element Boulder

25 "Uranus" V3 low sit left traverse mini lip/arete up right to top (opposite #16) FA=CS/SB

26 "The Fourth Element" V4 start off tree on right traverse left to arete FA=SB

27 "The Fifth Element" V5 direct low start FA=CS

28 "Element" V3 sit start left arete - V1 stand start V4? sit start left arete right into direct face?FA=CS/SB

29 "Elemental" V5 low start direct face - V2 stand start FA=CS

Roof Boulder

30 "roof on fire"? V!? upstream roof boulder left?
 
31 upstream roof boulder right??


Neptune Boulder

32 "Neptune" V6 start hueco go up sloper left arete FA=RE

33 "Neptune Direct" V6 start hueco go straight out overhang to mantle top out FA=RT

34 "old chippy block"? V!? right side bulge up left into Neptune Direct top out FA=!?

35 ??


















Saturday, June 4, 2022

Reptile Rocks










Reptilian V2FA


Reptile Rocks

left to right

1 Baby Lizard V2 FA=CS

2 Reptile Traverse V2 FA=CS

3 crack FA=?

4 face FA=?

5 V2 lip traverse l to r FA=RT

6 low left sit up left or up right into #7 FA=?

7 Reptilian V2R direct center seams FA=RT

8 V1 corner arete FA=RT

9 left sit(s) r to l up into #10!? FA=?

10 highball right face FA=?

11 !?

12 !?

Reptilian V2FA Ryan Tolentino - YouTube

Reptile Traverse V2FA - YouTube


Monday, March 7, 2022

THE BOULDER GARDEN

Boulder Garden - Mayacamas Mountains - Sonoma County CA

Blue VB-V0 -- Green V1-V3 -- Yellow V4-V6 -- Red V7+ -- Black = down-climb


The Sombrero - front face


1 "Microphone Traverse" V7 FA=CJ extension: Gold Nugget Traverse? V8!? FA=CJ

2 "Microphone Traverse Direct" V6 FA=CS extension: Gold Nugget Direct? V7!? FA=?

3 "Mayacama" V9 mid start or "Babycama" V4 stand start mini hueco FA=CJ or V10/11!? sit FA=?

4 ? arete/prow/roof V2/3 FA=? or "Sombrero Traverse" V5 stand start traverse right into Gold Nugget Mantle FA=RT

5 "Batman Beta" V5 FA=CJ+CS foot first toe hook roof/overhang

6 "Microphone Mantle" V2 FA=CJ

7 "Gold Nugget Mantle" V4 FA=CS

8 steep crack pad stash scrunchy hole thingy?

9 front faces(s)!?

10 front faces(s)!?


The Sombrero - back face


11 "Alone In The Woods" V5/6 FA=CJ

12 "Pit Pocket" V6 FA=KJ

13 "Pharaohs Lip" V4 FA=ED

14 "No Lemon, No Melon" V3 FA=KW

15 "The Cultivator" V5 FA=CS

16 "00" V5 FA=CS

17 "Flying Banditos" V6 FA=CJ

18 ? FA=CJ

19 ? FA=CJ

20 ? FA=KW

21 "Cultivator Traverse" V6 FA=CS

22 00 Traverse V6/7? FA=?

23 "Sombrero Arete" V1 sit start lowball left arete - step off on rock or traverse left to corner FA=CS

24 ?

25 ?


Jims Boulder

26 "Jims Traverse" V6 FA=JT

27 V5/6 stupid pocket start FA=CS

28 "Get Up Offa That Thing" V3 FA=ED

29 scoop thing FA=KW

30 pocket finish? / jims face? V3/4? FA=JT

31 "Jims Highball" V1? FA=JT

32 jug arete V0? FA=ED?

33 slab arete VB? FA=CJ

34 slab(s)?

35 slab traverse?


The Stoanhouse

36 "Stoaned Arete" V2 FA=ED

37 "Stoan Pecker" V2 FA=CJ

38 "Trust The Dust" V3 FA=KW

39 "Sprout" V2 FA=CS

40 "seedling"? right hand mono finger stack start V5/6? FA=?

41 "Garden Variety" V2 rail start or V3 dueling hueco start FA=CS

42 "Stoanhouse Traverse" V1 scoop start - or project sit? or pocket start? FA=CS

43 "Alley Traverse" V!? - r to l or l to r?? FA=?

44 highball knobby slab(s)!?

45 ?

!!??

46

47

48

49

50




Boulder Garden - YouTube Playlist




Monday, April 26, 2021

Indian Cave {aka Rattlesnake Rock}

{topo secret}

Bouldering

>Pullout Traverse V0 juggy wall next to pullout. FA=CS

>V1 traverse up left of pullout.

>Rainbow V4 pillar/face to drop off finish from edge at lip on far left side of cave. FA=CS/SElfstrom -or- finish farther up right on high ripple edge. V5 FA=MShaffer

>Indian Cave V4 start from big left hand pocket on left side of main cave over holes - start of old nail/aid ladder - mantle up into scoop. FA=CS

>Indian Cave Traverse V4 start start pocket the traverse right into ledge mantle. FA=CS/SWheeler

>Wappo Mantle V1 stand start scoop ledge and mantle onto ledge -or- Wappo Wall V2 low left start -or- Wappo Pinch V3 sit start low right side of steep wall on right hand pinch up into mantle top out. FA=CS

>Wappo Direct V4 center of short steep wall direct from right hand pocket and left hand edge. FA=CS

>Wappo Traverse V3 sit start on right and traverse jug scoop lip holds left to Indian Cave mantle. FA=CS/SWheeler

>Sitting Bull Direct V4 direct sit start - or Standing Bull V3 midway crimper rail start. FA=CS

>Sitting Bull V5 sit start - stay low through scoop from low right to left. FA=CS

 >Bull in a China Shop V6 stand start right small dihedral knee-bar go left across sloper rail into top of Sitting Bull. FA=MShaffer

>The Wrong Way V6 low start direct into Bull in a China Shop. FA=KMoore

>Holy Diver V4 start in hueco hole on far right, end above hueco at horizontal crack. FA=CS

>>mega bulge project - low start up right into Holy Diver!?


Routes

Lower Tier (roadside):

>On The Wagon 5.6 (aka Indian Face) 2 bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor on ledge FA=CS

>Off The Wagon 5.12 TR short headwall off ledge above On The Wagon - 2 bolt anchor. FA=CS

Upper Tier (left to right):

>far left hueco arete prow?

>short face prow?

>short roof prow?

>Holy Crap 5.7 3 bolt prow/corner to 1 bolt rap anchor. FA=TBanuet/CS

>The Hole Shebang 5.8 4 bolt face/corner to 1 bolt rap anchor + 1 bolt anchor (+2 rusty old ring bolts). FA=SEscamilla/CS

>roof face prow into The Hole Shebang?

Middle Tier / Main Face (left to right):

>Dragonfly Crack {aka Dragonfly} 5.9 trad crack lead corner to 2 bolt rap anchor - TR. FA=CDeraymond

>prow between crack and scoop?

>Rattlesnake Face {aka Rattlesnake} 5.10 ancient watercourse route - old (aid?) bolts and manky old historic fixed gear - 8 new bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor. FAA=(First Aid Ascent?) ? / FFA=(First Free Ascent=? CS?) 

>cave route(s)??

>far right face(s)??

>steep upper right headwall route(s)??












Alpine Rock

{topo secret history}


Alpine Rock

Main Face 

>Masochist Arete V1 sit start short right arete over rocky pit. FA=CS

>Masochist Traverse V4/5 left to right into arete or vice versa to no hands or link into left problems. FA=CS

>The Masochist V5 sharp crimp edges up vert wall to rail. FA=CS

>Alpine Rail V1 FA=CS

>Alpine Stem V1R FA=CS

>Alpine Edge V0/1R left hand arete over rocky landing. FA=??

>Alpine Chimney V0 easy way up/down. FA=??

>Alpine Traverse V2/3 start on left and traverse slab right to end in chimney or up arete. FA=??

>Alpine Traverse Direct V4/5 start on left and traverse slab right staying low to end in chimney or up arete. FA=CS?

>Alpine Arete V1 right hand steep juggy right arete. FA=??

>The Alpinist V1R or 5.10TR FA=??

>Alpine Crack V1R or 5.10TR FA=??

>?? V?? corner arete face thingy ~ needs cleaning. FA=??

>Alpine Offwidth V0R FA=??

>Alpine Roof 5.10/11? FA=??

>Alpine Prow 5.13TR? steep roof prow! FA=??


The Ledge

>Ledge Crack 5.9/10TR or V0/1R/X Splitter finger crack over bad landing. FA=??

>Ledge Corner 5.9/10TR or V0/1R/X Diagonal dihedral corner. FA=??

>Ledge Face 5.9/10TR or V0/1R/X Left face off ledge. FA=??


West Face

>?? V?? FA=??

>West Face Traverse V2 Traverse left to right ~20ft to end on no hands ledge. FA=CS

>West Corner 5.9/10? FA=??

>West Face 5.10/11? FA=??


Alpine Bloc

>Toothfairy V3/4 low sit start left side of arete up past tooth arete hold and up over the top. FA=CS

>Toothfairy Direct V1/2 start right side of arete and go up left past tooth and up over the top. FA=CS

>Moose Lip V1 sit start big rail (or V0 stand) and traverse lip right to top out at arete. FA=??

>Baby Moose V3 sit start big rail same as Moose Lip and traverse edges and rails below lip to the right to top out at arete. FA=MW

>The Moose V4/5 FA=CS

>The Full Moose Traverse V6? Start start Baby Moose and traverse right around Tooth Fairy arete into The Moose to finish. FA=??

>Project!? Sit start left of Tooth Fairy arete on crimps and bust a tough move up to rail and top. FA=??



Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Swallow Rock - Dos Rios/Mendocino County CA.



   




Swallow Rock - Main Face
(Potentially ~10+ sport/trad routes + ~100+ boulder problems.)

0000? short face/prow? ~25'?

000? short 3 bolt face to bolt anchor. ~35'

00 Swallow Crack V0R splitter highball boulder crack! ~25' FA=CS?

0? ~5.10? short face? ~25'?

1 Snakecharmer 5.11 short thin crack/trad lead or tr. Pro to 1.5" ~25' FA=CS

2 Green Slab 5.9 3 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~25 FA=JM/CS - ground up

3 Black Slab 5.11 7 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~45' FA=JM/CS - ground up

4 Eagle Feather Arete (aka Hard to Swallow) 5.12 7 bolts to 2 bolt rap/tr anchor. ~45' FA=CS

5 Covelocos Corner 5.10 splitter dihedral corner crack/trad lead or tr - bolted A0 from the anchor of Black Slab and Eagle Feather Arete to 5.10 anchor. Pro to 3.5" ~55' FA=JG(tr)/KR(lead)

6? ~5.?? face/arete? ~55'?

7? ~5.?? face/corner? ~65'?

8? !?

9? !?

10 Swallow Traverse V0 traverse the base of the main face.



Swallow Boulders
Bomb Ass Dookie V4+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Can of Whoop Ass V5+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Bomb Ass Traverse V6+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Bomb Ass Arete V3+? (maybe way harder since boulder tipped steeper in a landslide?)
Tricks Are For Kids V5 stand or V8 sit FA=CS-V5/KJ-V8 - or V8/9 low sit!?
Firestarter V4 sit start overhang on beach - V3 stand start (sand levels for sit start fluctuate - V6/7 when sand is high FA=MW) FA=CS/SB?
Firestarter Traverse V5 FA=CS
Firecracker V1
Jade Dome tilted/shifted - steeper and shorter now was V3 now V!?
Jaded V4 stand or V7/8 low start FA=CS-V4/RC-V7/8
Emerald Triangle V3 stand start face/arete or V5 sit or Gnar Gnar V7 low sit FA=CS
Shady Cave Traverse V6 FA=CS
Made in the Shade V5 FA=CS
Christal Gaston V4 FA=CS
Skywalker V3 FA=RE
? V3? right of Skywalker. FA=CS
The Blob V3R sit or V2R stand FA=CS
? stand into traverse rail. FA=CS
Uprising V5/6 FA=CS
? highball or tr or lead!? seam crack bulge!?
Skyhook V5 and Skyhawk V6 FA=RE-V5/CS-V6
R.T. V6 FA=RT
Elbow Grease V4 FA=CS
Jack Move V1 stand V2? sit FA=E?
Jackal Traverse V3? FA=CS
Apocalypse V6 FA=RT
Captain Crunch V2 or V4
Breakfast of Champions V2
Lumpy Face V0
Lumpy Traverse V1
V!? arete project
Eyes of a Tire Hub aka Unborn V8/9 inverted offwidth roof crack squeeze chimney! FA=EW
Don't You Want Knee Baby V3 inverted offwidth roof crack. FA=EW
VB/0
V0/1
V1/2
V2/3
V3/4
V4/5
V5/6
V8/9/10!?
!!??




Chuck B onsight flash second ascent of 
"Eagle Feather Arete" 5.12a (aka "Hard To Swallow")
Swallow Rock, Dos Rios CA.