Thursday, August 26, 2010

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering -Reborn!!



Big props to Darren W (Splitclimber) for finding some new problems at some of the old boulders and even some good new boulders of his own as well as reigniting the flame of psyche at The Loaf!!
8-27-10 NEW boulders have been found in the creek near the Upper Canyon Trail Area! About 30 new problems to add to the 125 in the area makes over 150 total new and old boulder problems at The Loaf now! Most of these boulders have legit access, good trails or easy scrambling and short (1 to 15 minute) approaches. The also short 15-45 minute drive from either the Santa Rosa or Napa/Sonoma areas makes it certain - this is now Sonoma Counties best inland bouldering area for moderate levels (VB/0 - V5/6) or for circuit training. Get out and enjoy the lush forests, waterfalls and unique rocks (schist, serpentine and volcanic-ish) - see you there!

Check out more info and pics for Sugarloaf Ridge and many other bouldering spots around the Bay Area and all over Northern California in Bay Area Bouldering and Northern California Bouldering both by SUPERTOPO!

Below are some rough topo pics and info for nearly all of the boulder problems found inside the park - The NEW Upper Creek Boulders (Upper/Middle/Lower) and the main Upper and Lower Canyon Trail Boulders, The Biscuit Boulder and Sacred Rocks near the Goodspeed Trailhead and the seldom visited Sunrise Rocks off of Meadow Trail;





Most recently, in 2012(?) Oscar Gomez added a dynamic new V3ish sit start to an old stand start on The Crown Roof at the semi-secret, old school, Coraza Boulders. Great job reigniting the flame once at The Loaf once again Oscar G!

The Loaf Bouldering is reborn again!!


The old/new Crown Roof at the Coraza Boulders
1 "El Corazon" V1 far left roof into same top as old school.
2 "Old School" V1 mini mega classic left roof over rock to jug top out.
3 "Noble" V1 left-center roof left top out / or V1/2? right top out?
4 "The Crown" V3/4 direct out center of roof via undercling right and drop - or top out V4 / or V? left?
5 "Sizzling Bacon" V2 low sit then deadpoint/bump up left and drop - or top out V2/3.
6 "Sizzlean" V2/3 same low sit then into right variation and drop off.
7 V2/3/4 lip traverse(s) either direction link ups!?
8 VB back side slab of Obelisk - up/down climb.
9  medium tall and steep problem with semi bad tree stump landing on cliffside below Fern Gully V!?
10 ?






THE BISCUIT BOULDER
Directions:
[Off Goodspeed Trail - take a right turn onto a feint deer trail just after the second bridge at the start of Goodspeed Trail (the trail up to Hood Mountain from the southeast/Sugarloaf Ridge side - follow the trail up the creek to a smaller rocky creek coming down the hill on the right side - follow it uphill for about 3-5 minutes to The Biscuit on the hillside on the right side - total hike time = about 10 minutes from the parking area on the northwest side of Adobe Canyon Rd at the Goodspeed Trailhead]

THE BISCUIT BOULDER
1 V0/1 left arete/face
2 "Buttercup" V3 sit start on horizontal crack or V4 dyno
3 V1/2 face
4 "Butterscotch" V2r high face with natural thread
5 "The Biscuit" V2 right face diagonal traverse
6 "Biscuit Traverse" V3 traverse left to right up into #5
7 ?






THE SACRED ROCKS - NO PHOTO
Directions:
[Off Goodspeed Trail - follow the same directions to The Biscuit but don't go up the final creek on the right instead stay in the main creek mostly hiking on the hillside on the right side of the creek but also in and out of the creek doing some bushwhacking and rock hopping then along the left side of the creek to get to the obvious boulders that form an arch over the creek - the boulder on the right side has problems #1-2, the big main rock has the long, classic traverses #3-4 and the classic Call of the Wild #5 and the smaller rock next to it has the harder problems #7-8 - - there are a few other boulders in the area both upstream and downstream from the main Sacred Rocks - total hike time = about 15-25 minutes from the parking area]

THE SACRED ROCKS
1 "Safari" V0r high face on right side of right boulder
2 "Sacrifice" V3 arete over creek on right boulder (left of #1)
3 "The Sacred Traverse" V2 high V3 low
4 "The Sugar Traverse" V3/4 high V4/5 low
5 "Call of the Wild" V2 right side of main rock
6 "Call of Ktulu" V2 sit start short arete opposite #5
7 "Enchanted" V4 start #6 then traverse lip to right past the top of #8
8 "White Fang" V6 left or right variations - pull past namesake tooth on overhang
9 ?
10 ?




LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park at the first pullouts uphill from the Goodspeed Trail parking lot - and take a right turn onto (Lower) Canyon Trail - follow the trail for just a few feet downhill to a large tree on the right side and then take a feint trail downhill to the creek and The Asteroid Boulders - the Neptune Boulders are just a few more minutes down stream - total hike time = about 3-5 minutes to The Asteroid Boulders and about 5-10 min to Neptune]

LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - THE ASTEROID BOULDERS
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
{problems 1-3 are currently and possibly forever unclimbable due to fallen tree(s))
1 V1/2 left face stand start
2 "Cosmic" V2/3 stand - V4/5 sit
3 "Milky Way Traverse" V7 sit #2 or V6 stand
4 "Assteroid" V0 sit right side short bulge
5 "Orbit" V5 low start - V2 stand
6 "Uranus" V3 low sit start opposite #5
7 "The Fifth Element" V5 sit - V4 stand
8 ?






LOWER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - NEPTUNE
1 "Neptune" V6/7 sit - V6 stand
2 "Neptune Direct" V6/7 sit V6 stand
3 ?






UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
This area has the highest concentration of problems and easiest access - it is divided into two main zones with the first being the newly developed zone closest to the parking in the creek and on the hillside above it and is called the UPPER CREEK BOULDERS and the other more established main area known as the UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are down Canyon Trail - seperate directions are listed for both areas below;
UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Upper Canyon Trailhead





UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS - UPPER CREEK BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park the same as for the main Canyon Trail Boulders at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is across the road to the southwest and Pony Gate Trailhead starts from the northeast side of the pullout - across the road from Pony Gate Trailhead just up the road from the pullout is a feint trail down into the creek and the Booger Boulder - The Chatterbox is on the hill above and behind The Booger, hike up the road to the next feint trail then cross the creek and hike uphill past a mossy rock to the boulder - total hike time = about 1 minute from the parking area to the base of The Booger and about 2-3 min to The Chatterbox and about 5-15 min down the creek (summer/fall) to the other boulders]

BOOGER BOULDER (NEW!)
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 "Sneeze" V1 sit V0 stand left arete
2 "Booger Face" V1r stand V2 sit into left arete or V2/3 into direct right (V1r stand) face finish
3 "Hairy Booger" V2r stand start gaston rail/face over rock/water V3 sit start right hand on incut mini jug/edge
3A ? high face/arete over rock/water!?
4 "Booger Traverse" V4 stand start at big righ hand undercling then traverse right along the lip into the V1/2 finish of Booger Finger - or V4/5 low sit start on right hand sidepull/undercling edge and left on low gaston or lower undercling.
4A ? stand start same as #4 then traverse up left to finish on #1 or #2?? or do the low sit?? or !? traverse the entire main face of The Booger either left to right from #1 into #7 or right to left from #7 sit into #1 to finish - "The Big Booger Traverse"!!??
5 "Snot" V0 stand V1 sit start with low left hand incut mini jug/edge
6 "Stinging Nettle" V3 sit start just left of incut start hold of Booger Finger and go up left into #5
7 "Booger Finger" V2 sit into 3 stand starts/finishes; either "Booger Direct" V0/1 (stand start) top out direct or V1 (stand start) traverse up right around corner on sloper lip to mid way mantle top out (V0 stand start off rock) or V1/2 (stand start) continue traversing higher up right past loose block to top of boulder for the most fun, pumpy and classic method and also the end of the Booger Traverse.
7A "Sugar Booger" V3 sit start same as Booger Finger then traverse sloper lip up left into Snot V0 stand or "Hairy Sugar Booger" V4 same start then continue traversing left up into Hairy Booger.



BOOGER BOULDER - BACKSIDE
8 "Nasal Cavity" V3 same sit as #9 then left past nose/horn or start on nose/horn V1/2 or low sit V3/4 start on left hand dihedral seam crimp and make move up right to horn - - or lower !?
9 "Nose Pincher" V1 stand start on upper right hand meat-wrap/nose pinch or "Nose Picker" V4 low sit or V2/3 mid way start on sloper/crimper rail
10 "Dirty Booger" V4/5 low start up right into #11 or V5/6 sit start
11 "Olfactory" V0 stand start bulge slab face into the downclimb (#12) to top out
12 VB easiest way up/down - downclimb
13 "Nasophilia" V0 steep slab face left or "Mucus Membrane" V1 low sit right arete or V0 stand
14 short steep sit downstream - left face direct or right arete?
15 stand start short bulge/face in creek next to #14?






THE CHATTERBOX (NEW!)
1 "Chatterbox" V2 stand face on left V2/3 sit
2 "Hotbox" V2/3 stand V3 sit
3 "Keep Quiet" V2 stand start V3 sit start steep slab face right of tree then up left into #1
4 "Tree Spotter" V1 right side of face right of tree
5 V0 right arete from low face start
6 "Chatterbox Traverse" V3/4 L to R or best R to L into #1 to finish
7 VB right arete/lip traverse up left to top






SWEET TOOTH (NEW!)
1 "Jug Top" V1 sit
2 ""Sweet Tooth""? aka ""Pinball Wizard""? V!? project!
3 VB traverse from right to left and up






TREE TOP (NEW!?)
1 ? V0?
2 ? V0/1?
3 ? V1/2 traverse left to right end on #5
3A ? start #3 then finish low direct/eliminate to far right side
4 "Tree Top" V0



TREE TOP - BACKSIDE
6 ? V1 traverse lip from far right to left end on #4
7 ? V2/3 low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to left end on #4
7A ? low direct/eliminate traverse from far right to far left end on #1
8 "3 Move Blunder" left V2 sit or right V1 sit
9 V0 stand start V1 low start small boulder
10 !? sloper mantle lip - or low start on tiny crimper edges!!??
11 ?





LOST + FOUND (NEW!)
1 "Lost + Found Arete" V1/2 stand V2/3 low start
2 ? face?




MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!?
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start?
3 ? match layback left start or wimpier right start - short but good!?
4 "Lost + Found" (on previous topo pic)
5 ?


MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - UPPER FALLS BOULDER - MAIN FACE
1 ? steep testpiece with bad landing!? (on previous topo pic)
2 ? highball prow to lip - campus start or high jug start? (on previous topo pic)
3 ? match left layback or right start - short but good!? (on previous topo pic)
4 ? shorty?
5 ?






MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - LEFT MAIN CLIFF - 5 CRACKS (NEW!)
1 ? left crack corner - tight squeeze?
2 "Volcano Crack" V0R layback/corner crack to jug mantle - downclimb left
3 "Volcano Direct" V0 stand start crack/arete or V? low start - downclimb left
4 ? crack on right - downclimb left?5 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse up left to downclimb!?
6 ? traverse/prow!??
7 ?





MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - CENTER MAIN CLIFF (NEW!)
1 "Amphibian Crack" V0/1? crack traverse r to l to no-hands knee-bar
2 ? crack to high dirty slab traverse!? (#5 on previous topo pic)
3 ? traverse/prow!?? (#6 on previous topo pic)






MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK - MAIN CLIFF (NEW!)
1 ? diagonal crack?
2 ? direct boulder problem?
3 ? left boulder problem?
4 ? crack to low traverse over water!?
5 ? crack to high traverse!?
6 ? crack route - rope!??
7 *incomplete route!??





MIDDLE-UPPER CREEK (NEW!) - OVERVIEW
1 ? short but good right mantle?
2 ? butt dragger traverse - either way?
3 ? short left mantle?
4 ? short face?
5 ? short arete/slab?
6 "Volcano Crack" V0R layback/corner to jug mantle - downclimb left (5 CRACKS)
7 *Upper Falls Boulders / Lost + Found Boulder





SWARMED BOULDER (NEW!)
1 "Swarmed" V5/6 low sit diagonal up right into stand or V2/3 stand start right hand arete and left hand sloper lump then make a move up to pinch and then top out!
2 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R slick slab face over bad/rocky landing
3 V1/2 low stand start same as #1 then traverse up left into #2
4 "The Hive" V4/5 start with right hand low on sidepull and traverse left into #3
5 ? bulge/face?
6 ? slab?
7 ?





LOWER-UPPER CREEK - MAIN BOULDERS (NEW!)
1 ? highball roof/face!?
2 ? slick slab!?
3 ? arete/prow?4 ? short but good right start?
5 ? short left start?
6 "Swarmed" V5/6 (listed on previous boulder)
7 "Big Kids Climb" VB/R
8 high arete!??
9 V0 short bloc mantle or low start?
10 ?






SKUNKY FUNKY (NEW!)
1 "Skunky Funky" V4/5 low start arete/bulge or V3/4 stand start!
2 ? left start!?
3 ? right face over bad landing?
4 VB prow
5 V0 start VB prow then traverse right to VB on far right
6 VB far right
7 V0 traverse base of volcanic slab cliff - r to l - 40 feet long!
8 *Big Spire? - easy way up/down backside V!? - or left crack main face or right arete!??
9 ?
10 ?





UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS
Directions:
[Park at the last pullout on the left side of the road before the (pay) entrance to the park. (Upper) Canyon Trailhead is directly across from the parking and heads downhill to the boulders and the seasonal waterfall - total hike time = 3-5 minutes to The Canyon Trail Boulder on the left and about a total of 5-7 minutes to the main area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS on the left just off the main trail just past the intersection of a smaller trail on the left that switches back down into the creek - it is about 7-10 minutes total from the upper parking area downhill to the base of the waterfall - to reiterate; the main bouldering area THE UPPER CANYON TRAIL BOULDERS are above the waterfall between the trail and the creek and the creek boulder is just below the main area in, you guessed it - the creek]

SPANKY BOULDER (NEW!) - NO PHOTO
[off the left side of (Upper) Canyon Trail above C.T.Boulder]
1 "Spanky" !?
2 ?



CANYON TRAIL BOULDER
[alongside Upper Canyon Trail]
1 "Trailblazer" V2/3 stand V5 sit
2 "Traiblazer Arete" V1 stand V2 sit
3 "Upstream" V0 stand V1 sit
4 VB stand V0 sit
5 "Fishy Climb" aka "Kids Climb" VB sit or VB- stand
6 VB+ slab arete mini spire
7 "Canyon Trail Traverse" V5 r to l or V4 l to r






HIDE OUT BOULDER (NEW!)
[behind the main Canyon Trail Boulder]
1 "Bunchgrass" V1 sit start or V0 stand start arete
2 "Leaf Liter" V0 stand - "Sweet Leaf" V3 sit center face or V0 stand or V1 sit center-right
3 V0 sit
4 "Hide" V3/4 diagonal seam/crack traverse - stay low - lip off - or use lip "Seek" V0/1
5 V0 left of #1 low start






SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 "Nice" V0- left face/arete
2 "Not So Nice" V0 center face
3 "Snips + Snails" V0+ arete/face



SUGAR + SPICE BOULDER - SOUTH FACE
4 "Sugar" V1 arete
5 "Spice" V2r highball face with slanted hillside landing - spicy!
6 "Old Spice" V1r crack/face
7 "Spice Crack" V0r crack
8 "Sugar + Spice Traverse" V1/2 start on #7 and traverse left and up into #1 - or "Snail Trail" V0/1 start #3 traverse up left into #1 or "Sugar Trail" V1/2 start #7 traverse left into Snail Trail.






SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - WEST FACE
1 V0 short but good left corner/arete/face
2 "Finga Tingla" V3r right of corner center of steep slab face
3 V1r stand - V2/3 sit direct up dirty crumbly but fun arete/prow
4 V1/2 into #1 or "Finga Tingla Traverse" V4r into #2 - low traverse start from square cut jug



SUGAR SMACK BOULDER - EAST FACE
5 "Sugar Smack Direct" V1 stand - V3 sit start on edges left of jug - jug is off
6 "Sugar Smack" V1 stand V2 sit start on low square cut jug
7 "Sugar Daddy" V2 stand - V3 sit
8 "Sugar Mama Traverse" V4/5? either direction?






LOVE + HATE BOULDER
1 "Love" V0 diagonal traversing right arete/jug lip (good warmup)
2 "Love + Hate Face" V3/4 center face
3 "Hate" V2/3 left arete
4 "Love + Hate Traverse" V4/5 right to left into #3 - V4 left to right



LOVE + HATE BOULDER - BACKSIDE (NEW!)
5 "Religion" V1 arete sit - V0 stand start
6 "Politiks" V1/2 face sit - V0/1 stand start
7 ?






PYRAMID BOULDER
1 "Pyramid Traverse" V2 traverse
2 "Pyramid Power" V2 sit start
3 ? V5 link up eliminate - sit start #2 then left skipping jug above into sloper on start of #4!
4 "Pyramid Face" V1/2 start on sloper up into arete
5 "Pyramid Arete" V2 sit - V1 stand



PYRAMID BOULDER - SOUTHEAST FACE
5 "Pyramid Arete" V2 sit - V1 stand
6 V1/2 sit bulge to slab






CREEK BOULDER
[WET IN WINTER/SPRING WHEN CREEK IS HIGH]
1 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit
2 ? V0/1 stand - V4 sit
3 V3/4/5 stand/sit ??
4 "Lockwood" V2 stand - V3 sit
5 ? traverse !?
6 ?






ARROWHEAD BOULDER
1 "Flaming Arrow" V1 right arete sit V0 stand
2 "Arrowhead" V3/4 center face low start
3 "Arrowhead Arete" V2/3 left arete low start V0/1 stand
4 "Arrowhead Traverse" V4/5 r to l - start on #3 finish #1



ARROWHEAD BOULDERS
5 V2/3 traverse r to l into #6
6 V1/2 face
7 ?






SUNRISE ROCKS - NO PHOTO(Day use fee required to park in Day Use area or walk in)
{hard to find, rarely visited, often overgrown}
Directions:
[Park at the Day Use Parking Lot inside the pay area at the top of Adobe Canyon Rd near the campground and hike east to Meadow Trail and follow it to the first right turn then take a left into the creek and try to follow feint deer trails doing some bushwhacking uphill for about 5-10 more minutes to the 10-20 foot tall, untamed, overgrown, dirty rocks in the creek]

SUNRISE ROCKS
1 "Matchbox" v4 sit start in tight corridor or V1 stand start arete/slab
2 "Sunburn" V1 left/uphill face
3 "Sundial" V2 center face
4 "Sunrise Traverse" V3 start on right side arete and traverse up left
5 ?





Sugarloaf Ridge VIDEOS;

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering Video - Booger Boulder YOUTUBE

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering - Lower Upper Creek (new) YOUTUBE

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering Video-Slideshow (old) YOUTUBE

"Sugar Booger" V3fa! sit YOUTUBE

"Booger Finger" V2fa! sit YOUTUBE

"Lost Arete" V2fa! sit YOUTUBE

"Snot" V1fa! sit YOUTUBE





MORE INFO, PICS AND VIDS COMING SOON..

Have Fun!!

1 comment:

  1. Great beta! Thanks a ton, but is it possible to get some sort of map with the locations?

    ReplyDelete