Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Top 12 secret/private north bay boulder projects



Here are, from what I've seen, heard and can remember and also in my opinion, the top 12 un-done bouldering projects that are secret/private in and around the North Bay Area. I can't include directions, you will have to find that out through word of mouth. Access to some of these areas is possible with permission of local climbers/friends/landowners but a few of these areas have continually changing access dilemmas. The areas with the dilemmas require you to talk to the local climbers about the current access issues before risking trespassing without permission and getting in trouble, blowing it for everyone else and maybe even getting deliveranced :-/ I have more I'm saving for myself of course ;) but these are most of the best and most difficult. There are also a few that I didn't find, clean and/or envision so I also left those out for now until the discoverer has a chance to try for the first ascent.

I have a list of the legit Bay Area bouldering projects along with the top 10 best boulder problems at each grade in my;
Top 10 Best Boulder Problems in the Bay Area.



Top 12 secret/private north bay area boulder projects, in no particular order, 0-5 star:
( the grades are a guess on my part and since i have only bouldered about v10 anything above that is massive speculation and it's all totally my opinions and the names are just nicknames for now of course, do em and name em! :)

*****full direct Mammoth Cave V12/13/14+!? do the short but powerful 10ft v7/8 low direct center sit into any 5 of the 60foot long v8/9 original classics right into the 15ft steep and powerful v7 crux and past the end of the big cave into an upside down back against the wall no hands rest then do the 35ft v7 finish into the smaller cave - total = 120ft!!
MAMMOTH CAVE

*****full Mammoth Cave V10/11/12!? do any 5 of the 60ft long v7/8/9 original classics into the short v6/7/8 crux to the end of the big cave (V10/11 to here) then into the upside down back against the wall no hands rest and then do the v7 finish into the smaller cave for the full V11/12!?
MAMMOTH CAVE

*****direct Mammoth Cave V9/10/11!? do the short, powerful 10ft v7/8 low direct center sit into any 5 of the v8/9 original classics!?
MAMMOTH CAVE

***full Green Cave traverse V10/11/12!? start white widow v5 for the extra pump then do any of the main green cave traverses v5/6 and do "sit direct" which is a few hard drop down and set up moves that are about v7/8ish into kevin's sit v6/7 and then do the 50ft v3/4 traverse to finish - total = 100ft!
GREEN CAVE

***sit direct V9/10!? do a few hard low traverse moves that are about v7/8ish into kevin's sit v6/7.
GREEN CAVE

****Moonrise Arete V9/10/11!? left hand arete/face from start of kick me up right!?
MOONRISE

*****direct variations!? V11/12/13/14!?
SLITHER

****direct orange cave V13/14!?
SECRETS

***corridor traverse V10/11/12!?
SECRETS

**saber-choong V10/11!?
SECRETS

**fish slap traverse V9/10!?
SECRETS

****warrior project V7/8?R!?
GEYSERS




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