Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Urban Climber - Classic Cali article

In this months (issue #48 May 2011) edition of Urban Climber Magazine, I contributed some info to a short article about California. Not to take anything away from that original and to the point article I would just like to add a bit more of my own info to make it the best article it could be. I want to say this is my first article published in a magazine and it's kind of cool! I have had photos published in Urban Climber before but never anything written. I am excited to do more! Thanks CVL!!

I want to make a few things clear that were either unclear or left out for some reason - basicly I'm going to point out and even rewrite parts of the article to make it better or at least more clear/detailed in my opinion - here it is:

here is how I would have wrote the first paragraph:
CALIFORNIA, the third largest state in the nation, is home to a huge collection of climbing areas. Yosemite, the mecca for western climbing is only part of what California has to offer. The east side of the Sierra, the Pacific Coast and even a few unique inland areas, some of which are even right near the highly populated Bay Area have many high quality rocks that are not to be missed. All year in Cali can be all good with old school classics, virgin new routes and in springtime crispy granite and massive waterfalls in the heat of summer, sandy beaches with bouldering on exotic rocks. Fall and Winter offer up Bishop bouldering and the multitude of classics in every style at Joshua Tree in the high desert of Southern California.

here are more of my additions;
The Sierras contain a huge collection of alpine routes and are also surrounded by many, excellent sport and bouldering areas like Jailhouse Rock and the awesome Columbia limestone boulders near Sonora. Other incredible sport and trad climbs are to be found at The Needles and Shuteye Ridge on the western slopes to the world class Buttermilk Boulders, the Volcanic Tablelands and Owens River Gorge on the east side. To the north are the unique Humboldt County area limestone crags and beach rocks; and to the west is the Bay Area's mix of sport climbing, bouldering and top roping like the famous Mickey's Beach as well as the historic test-pieces and outdoor gym-like variations at the Berkeley area crags and boulders. Last but not least is the high quality, Fontainbleau-esque sandstone playground, Castle Rock near the Silicon Valley of San Jose.

For the Bay Area I would have also mentioned the new 5.14a Beach Arete (without drilled pocket) first done by Kevin Jorgeson, then by Ethan Pringle and then by Charlie Barrett. I also would have mentioned Eco Terrorist (V10) at Castle Rock State Park, the old school classic Nat's Traverse (V8) at Mortar Rock, Berkeley and Pelican Arete (V0R) at the Sunset Boulders in Goat Rock Park.

For Yosemite I would have also mentioned Nutcracker (5.8/9) and Midnight Lightning (V8).

For Bishop I would have also mentioned Strength In Numbers (V5) at the Sads and Essential Peabody (V0R) at the Buttermilks.

For the Inside Scoop I would have mentioned;
Delicious foods from all over the world and great Micro Breweries. Mt Tam not Marin Headlands maybe for the best place
to mountain bike since it was the birthplace of mountain biking. I also would have mentioned that Hwy 101 takes you to the Wine Country not Hwy 1 - but Hwy 1 will take you to the scenic North Coast.

Mainly, I'm very stoked to have any part of any article published in any magazine - I just want to make it the best it could be here on my blog.


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