Monday, September 8, 2014

Traverse Fetish

The crux of the 150ft "Pine Flat Traverse" V6 fa

Not sure exactly what's wrong with me I guess I like to get sideways ;-/ I actually really like traversing and am not sure why more climbers don't. Here's why I do and why I think most climbers maybe don't:

traversing is great to do if you're alone because you can often do a lot of hard moves and get a good workout without a lot of risk because you're usually not very high off the ground.

traverses are often one of in not the hardest line on any given cliff.

traversing sideways or diagonally is more rare than going up or down and therefore is unique and special in its own way.

traverses can give you a pump like you would get on a long roped route but without the hassle of gear and a belayer.

traverses are often overlooked and a total first ascent score right under everyone's noses still to this day at a lot of popular crags and boulders.


traversing is usually lame and wimpy because you're usually not high off the ground and you get in everyone's way as you prance around the base of the entire crag in front of everyone like you're on frkn parade.

sayings like "who wants to go sideways when you can go up?" and "watch me climb" come to mind.

the spread eagle splits are often involved along with other embarrassing frenchy moves like cross throughs and roses, too much resting not enough action, etc etc..

"Stoner Traverse" V6 fa Aquarian Waterfall, CA

Here's a list of some of my favorite traverses that I did first ascent of and are rarely repeated because, as mentioned above;
"traversing is (desperate and pathetic and..) the bastard step child of sport climbing" :)
 - John "Verm" Sherman (i think verm said it first?)

"Trinity Traverse" V3fa
Diagonal uphill slab/vert traverse with many cruxes and no hands rests along the base of the sport climbs. Fun to the end but what's wrong with someone who does a lame traverse at a cool sport crag.? Direct without a big foothold midway it is about a grade harder but has a worse landing.
Trinity Aretes CA

"Subway Cave Traverses" V3/4/5fa / 5.11/5.12fa
3 Main traverses inside the entrances of the lava tubes.
FA= 2 me and 1 Richie Esquibel
Subway Cave CA - "Exit Traverse" V4/5.12- fa YouTube

"Porky's Traverse" aka Little Shop of Horrors Traverse V5/6fa
Traverse from right to left along the base of the sport climbs on the Little Shop of Horrors.
Pig Rock NEV

"Mickey's Traverse" V4/5fa
Traverse in either direction along the base of the sport climbs on the west face of the Main Crag.
FA= J Thornburg, M Nunez, J Follett, J or J Campbell???? and maybe me from the lowest sit?
Mickey's Beach CA

"The Foolish Traverse" aka The Full Remilard Traverse V3/4fa
Do the original traverse from the left then continue up the diagonal ramp below the roof and over a rocky landing with a weird slab crux into a pumpy fun finish at the far right uphill side that is also over a rocky landing but not as bad as the landing at the crux.
Remilard Park, Berkeley CA

"The Great White Traverse" V8fa (sit crack) and the shorter "Hammerhead Traverse" V7fa (stand)
Traverse from left to right up over rocks to end on V0 diagonal crack on top of Orange Pleasure.
Mickey's Beach CA - "Hammerhead Traverse" V7 fa YouTube

"Super Abalone Traverse" V8fa and the shorter "Abalone" V7fa (start from center low sit)
Traverse from right to left along sloper lip with assorted heel and and ab flexing toe hooks.
Super Slab CA - Ryan Tolentino "Super Abalone" V8 YouTube

"Renegades of Funk Traverse" V9fa start on the original Super Slab Corner 5.6/VB and then traverse left around arete into Mouse Crack then drop down into the sit start to Over The Hill and top it out.
Super Slab CA - Kevin Jorgeson "Renegades of Funk" V9 YouTube

"Rossta Traverse" V8/9fa
Traverse from right to left from Swiss Cheese past Living A Dream arete and down a move to "the ball hold" on Fort Rossta then end on Left Arete.
Fort Ross CA

"Goldbugs Traverse" V3/4fa?
Traverse from right to left along horizontal crack to the crux at the end.
FA= me?
Tuolumne CA

"Fat Man Traverse" aka Fat Tire Traverse V3/4fa
Traverse from a sit start on the arete to the left along a rail reminiscent of the Iron Man Traverse.
Fat Tire Boulder, Tahoe  CA

"Chris' Traverse" V6/7fa
Traverse low from a sit on the far right into the far left arete.
Low Brow Boulder, Christmas Tree Valley, Tahoe CA

"Starfish Traverse" V3/4fa
Traverse from the far left to the far right arete/roof to finish. Also done into The Wave problem V4/5.
The Wave Boulder, Secrets CA

"40 Oz Traverse" V6fa
Traverse from far right around arete to end on the far left.
40 Oz Boulder, Vacaville CA

"Motherfucker Traverse" V5fa
Traverse from far right around arete to end on the far left uphill backside.
The Mother Boulder, Vacaville CA

"Stoned Dangler Traverse" V5fa
Traverse from far right to end on the far left.
Bloody Madness Boulder, Vacaville CA

"Pine Flat Traverse" V6fa (150+ft!)
Traverse from far left uphill along base of crag to end on the far right. Epic long pumpfest!
Pine Flat, Geysers CA

"Rattlesnake Rock Traverse" V4fa
Traverse from far left around arete along base of crag to end on the far right.
Geysers CA

"Sticky Green Traverse" V6fa
Traverse from arete on far right to left into top out near end of long sloper lip.
Muffins, Castle Rock CA

"Backscratcher Traverse" V3/4fa
Traverse up and left through backscratching corridor from low start on right side at slab arete to end on fun juggy arete on uphill left side.
Indian Rock, Castle Rock CA

"Tender Biddles Traverse" V6fa
Traverse from Tender Biddles sit low and left along base of slab into semi highball crack on left.
Biddles Boulders, Castle Rock CA

"Dubilious Traverse" V6/7fa Stand start Way Dubious Contortionist and traverse left into the original Billy Goat Traverse (V6 FA=Dave Caunt) or V8/9? from Way Dubious low/under-cling start.

"Billy Goat Gruff" V7fa Stand start on far left side of Billy Goat Rock and reverse the Billy Goat Traverse (V6 FA=Dave Caunt) to the right into Way Dubious Contortionist (V5) to finish.
Billy Goat Rock, Castle Rock CA

"Stoner Traverse" V6fa Left to far right into Sunray V2 to finish (V7 low start).
Stoner Cave, Aquarian Valley Waterfall, Castle Rock CA

"Stop In The Name Of Love Traverse" V3/4fa or "Stop Dragging My Heart Around Traverse" V4/5fa Traverse from right to left along backside of main wall. "Stop Dragging.." is the lowball butt-dragger. Start to the right of the word "Stop" spray painted on the boulder.
Saddle Boulder, Tahoe CA

"Loosers Keepers Traverse" V5/6fa
Hard slab traverse. Traverse from arete on left near start of Looser Weepers to V0 just before the right side (to continue far right for a few more moves may add a / grade but feels less natural).
Lost and Found Boulders, Burnside Lake, Tahoe CA

"Lost and Found Traverse" V4/5fa
Start on Lost and Found and traverse left into fun V2 in corridor (or into V2 on far left = V6/7? or from V2 on far left into Lost and Found to finish = V7/8!?)
Lost and Found Boulders, Burnside Lake, Tahoe CA

"Limestone Natural Bridge Traverse" V5/5.12fa
Traverse from about the middle of the inside of the bridge to end on the far left (about 75ft!?). A rocky landing with weird moves on amazingly sculpted but dusty limestone in a dark cave makes this a fun and challenging adventure. Many good rests but sending this still feels like leading a fairly long and steep 5.12 sport pitch. And/or start on the far right and do about 20ft of V6 over rocks and seasonal water holes called "Bridge Creek Traverse" and step off or go into a long undone crux section (V8/9?) that when all added into the V5 will be the complete traverse (150ft!?) and probably sick double digits!?
(dark - a headlamp helps)
Hayfork CA "Limestone Natural Bridge Traverse" V5/5.12 fa YouTube

Sean Brady 2nd ascent of "Pine Flat Traverse"

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