Thursday, October 30, 2014

McKee County Park Boulders

More delicious new Mendocino bouldering!

 Russian River Headwaters

 Joshua Anderson on his direct V6fa!

 Joshua Anderson on "Pothead" V3 low sit 2nd ascent!

Chris Summit on "Synergy" V5fa!
Photos: Joshua Anderson

Addison Cox on "Synergy" V5

Addison Cox high on a new V4fa!

 Addison Cox on a short fun V4fa

McKee County Park Boulders, East Fork Russian River, Potter Valley, Mendocino CA
Most of the easier to moderate lowball to medium size problems have been done but there is potential for a lot more easy to moderate highballs as well as some big tough looking projects!! :)

* = low quality
** = ok/average
*** = good!
**** = great!!
***** = world classic!!!

Right to Left:

Pothead Boulder
Right to Left - downclimb #4 Pothead or jump to adjacent VB slab boulder (#12) and downclimb!? Bring shorts and maybe even sandals to cross creek (waist deep in summer/fall) - not good in winter or spring when creek is high - great on hot summer days! Also bring fishing pole for trout. Small but beautiful area with chill beaches, fishing, short hike and roadside access. 1 min approach from legit parking lot at McKee Creek County Park or from pullouts along Potter Valley Rd about 1 mile from CA20 west of Ukiah and Lake Mendocino. My grandma grew up in Potter Valley and some of the other side of my family lives there so I am sort of a local!?

    Pothead Boulder
    *Recommended seasonal (Summer/Fall) creek crossing zone*  

1 V6? traverse uphill from low sit start below rail on right side of main face (same as #5) or V7!? full traverse from sit start farther right next to creek on far right to the far left into #6 to finish!?

2 V2/3?** sit start far right and up? (mossy ) FA=RT/CS 90's?

3 V2/3?** same sit but up left variation? (mossy) FA=RT/CS 90's?

4 "Pothead" V3**** low sit start (same as #7 and #8) center of main face then up over steep bulge V1** stand or V2*** mid sit on jug - downclimb) FA=CS 90's

5 "Pothead Traverse" V4*** fun link-up traverse from low sit start same as #1 below horizontal rail on right side of main face and traverse left and up into Pothead or V5? from low far right sit FA=CS 90's

6 "Sleeping Beauty" V3***** sit start compression sidepulls and go up to jug top! V2*** stand
- or "Sleeping Pothead" V3** same sit then traverse right into #4 FA=JA/CS 2014

7 "Synergy" V5***** low right sit start same as Pothead #5 then low left up into #6. Adds more fun heel-hook compression moves into the mega classic Sleeping Beauty! FA=CS 2014

8 "No Tape" V6*** low right sit same as #7 then direct straight up then left into #6 FA=JA 2014

9 "?" V4*** low start on far left with rock slab at your back and angle up right into the top out of #6! (or into undone direct straight up left scary top out over rock!?) FA=AC 2014

10 V? backside left? FA=?

11 V? backside right? FA=?

12 V3*** or V4** direct with no left jug - small boulder behind #6+7 FA=AC/CS 2014

Main McKee Boulders

13 overhang/roof?

14 short face/arete?

15 slab(s)!

16 high arete/face?

17 big high sicky!?

18 ?



Fishing Hole Boulder
(On the trail down to the main fishing hole #1 just below the parking lot. No river crossing needed - you can see the Pothead Boulder across the river just upstream. Micro size but a nice mix of slab to slightly steep. Partial sun all day so it's climbable all year, if it's dry. Many fun lowball variations!)

21 "Fish On" V1** stand V3*** low stand V4/5** sit FA=CS 2015 - or V6/7? low scrunchy sit project!?

22 direct up into top of #21+23!?

23 "Fishing Hole Arete" V1** stand V2/3* sit V3/4** low sit - up direct into prow top out or around left into #25 traverse in reverse for a bit more challenge and fun FA=CS 2015

24 "Fishhead" V0* slab FA=EB 2014

25 "Mossy Stroke" V1** traverse from far left side, left of #27 below the top lip to far right into #24 FA=J? 2015

26 "Fishing Hole Traverse" V5? sit #21 then traverse left into #25 in reverse?

27 VB stand start short slab face on far left side.

Jeff does first ascent of "Mossy Stroke" V1

"Fish On" V4/5 sit fa!

Three Rocks
(Further down the road toward Potter Valley - mostly under water in winter)

28 "Hot Mess" V2** sit start short pocket and knob face FA=CS - or low right sit!?

29 "Hot Mess Direct"? sit start short pocket face direct/right - or low right sit!?

30 double arete compression start over water into #28 or #29!?

31 TR left arete mini pinnacle!?

32 TR center face mini pinnacle!?

33 TR right arete mini pinnacle!?

34 "Vortex" V3R***** DWS/Deep Water Solo // Highball - deep pool under crux but rocks at the start and around the sides - R rated risky highball/solo - flash or splash or !!?? FA=CS

35 "Rock Hop Arete" V0R right slab face arete into same slab top as #34 high over rocks and water!

36 start on right arete then up left face direct into #34!!??

37 short swimming hole jump boulder face out of water!?

38 "Three Lock Box" V3**** sit start roof? FA=CS/SR

38 V6? sit start roof right finish?

39 "Riverside Arete" V1**** FA=CS - or V2 sit?

40 V!?***** bad ass crimp dyno face project!? FA=!?

41 sit arete/face?

42 sit short bulge?

43 sit overhang left?

44 sit overhang center?

45 sit overhang right?

FA's = =
Original old school classics: Chris Summit, Ryan Tolentino
New school classics: CS, Joshua Anderson, Addison Cox, Elizabeth Balchowsky, Shawn Rogers

"Synergy" V5 FA - YouTube

"Vortex" V3R DWS FA - YouTube

Three Rocks Cold Creek Bouldering - YouTube

Look for this area to possibly be in the next eBook update of Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo coming this Summer/Fall 2015 along with a lot of other possible new additions around Mendo, Shasta, The Bay Area and Lake Tahoe! For now check it out here:
Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo

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