Saturday, May 23, 2015

Sugarloaf Ridge Bouldering ~ Spring 2015

Gunsight Rock
Mt Hood

Lizzy B
Mt Hood

"Illuminaughty" V4fa

Shawn R
"Illuminaughty" V4 

Shawn R
"Pyramid Power" V3

New boulder problems at the Canyon Trail Boulders in Sugarloaf Ridge Park 15min east of Santa Rosa near Kenwood. Darren W is to credit for bringing this area back to life and opening up a new boulder with several new classics. His original "Favors Undertakings" V1 is the main line up the flared corner in the center of the high face on this new pyramid tipped boulder. Located just uphill right next to one of the very first developed boulders in the park the old school Pyramid Boulder. 

Favors Boulder & The Pyramid Boulder
New problems Left to Right.
*barely worthy ~up to~ *****world classic:

1 "Left Wing" VB/0* left arete - look out for poison oak. FA: DW/CS?
2 V2** edges up right into #3, left arete is off. FA: DW
3 "Illuminaughty" V4**** stand start in corner same as #4 bust out left bulge face! FA: CS
or "Knights Templar" V6*** low right start on same good holds as #5 and #6. FA: CS
4 "Favors Undertakings" V1**** stand start from no hands rest and ascend semi high flared corner left of center - the original mega classic! FA: DW
or "The Alchemist" V5**** low right sit on good holds same as #5 and #6 up into #4. FA: CS
5 "Rosacrucian" V4*** high face right of center from low start on good square-cut holds. FA: CS
6 "Right Wing" V3** start on same good low holds as #5 then go right to arete or up arete. FA: CS
7 "Right Arete" V0 or V1R** right arete ~ bad landing V0 mid top out or V1R high top out! FA: AB?  
8 traverse left to right!?
9 traverse right to left!?
10 !?
Pyramid Boulder
11 "Pyramid Arete Low Sit" V4/5*** compression slopers into original start! FA: CS
12 !?

Check out a free mini-guidebook to Sugarloaf Ridge on this blog;

And for Sugarloaf Ridge as well as many other great bouldering spots in and around the area check out the latest 2015 eBook update for Bay Area Bouldering

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