Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS 2015/16

Sonoma Coast Crags TITANIUM REBOLT {Sea Crag and Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Super THANKS to Jim Thornburg et al.. !! :)

Sugarloaf Ridge Park ~75 new problems/200+ total! {Mayacama Mountains - Sonoma County}
About 50 new boulder problems found, cleaned and climbed in summer/fall/winter of 2015/16 in the lush Sonoma Creek Canyon off of Canyon Trail and out 25 new boulder problems at the awesome new/old Sunrise Rocks as well as a few more at a few other cool spots around the beautiful park. My friends and I established about 75 new boulder problems total from VB to V7/8 and found a lot of harder projects for the future.
FA's: DW, CS, GR, AC, GZ, OG, RT, LB, A?

"Grand Jury" 5.14a {Sea Crag - Sonoma Coast}
The hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area and CA!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth. 

"El Sabroso" 5.13c {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Tied with it's neighbor "Jury Duty" and topo-secret "Yoda Direct" for second hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth. 

"Stigmata" V13 (was V11 - hold broke ~2015) {topo-secret}
Tied with G's 2 other Sonoma County V13's (the neighboring "Adrift" and the Sonoma Coasts hardest problem/test-piece "High Tide Low Tide") for hardest boulder problem(s) in Sonoma County and some of the hardest in the Bay Area! 
FA - original V11: Kevin Jorgeson / FA - new V13: Giovanni "G" Traversi

"High Tide Low Tide" V13 {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Roof to arete/prow bulge face!
FA: Giovanni "G" Traversi

"Biddles Platinum" V4 stand V5 sit and "Biddles Steel" V5 stand and "Blue Steel" V7 sit {Biddles - Castle Rock}
The classic test-pieces on the main face of Biddles Tower at the new-ish Biddles area south of CRSP. 
Biddles Platinum V4 stand FA: Clay Breitweiser and V5 sit FA: Chris Summit / Biddles Steel V5 stand FA - Clay Breitweiser and Blue Steel V7 sit FA: Mike Donovan

"Bushwhacker Roof" V8 and "Bushwhacker Roof Direct" V9 {Indian Joe Caves - Sunol}
Mike D sparks new bouldering stoke at an old Bay Area top rope zone!
FA's: Mike Donovan 

"Aloha Patrol" 5.11 (5.11b start) - zone 3 solo! {Table Rock - Napa County}
FSA (First Solo Ascent): Damon "Nomad" Monjure

The Cascade Boulders {Berkeley - East Bay}
Newly found and established fun little bouldering spot in the rocky and scenic Berkeley hills.
FA's: Garrett "G-Raw" Rawlins

*Random Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS prior to ~2015:

Kimball Canyon, Black Tower, Wappo, Table etc.. {Mt St Helena - Napa County}
Many new climbs at many amazing new and "new-ish" areas with many old/new routes put up all over the Mt St Helena/Table Rock/Palisades area with more potential still up there! ~5.6-5.12+!? 
FA's: Jerry Dodrill, Darren Wiemeyer, Sourigno Outsama, Tim Terry, Dave Stallard, Jim Thornburg, Aaron Rough, ?? etc..

Biddles Boulders + many more new spots! {Skyline - Castle Rock}
The awesome new Biddles area and many other new sandstone bouldering areas similar to Castle Rock discovered and many new classics established in recent years by visionary first ascent pioneer Clay Breitweiser and a few other inspired locals in the Castle Rock/Skyline zone!
FA's: Clay Breitweiser, Mike Donovan, Joe Huras, Gustav Zacharias, Daniel Miller, Chris Zenardi, Kalen Glenn, CS, ??

The Bar and "Bat Karma" 5.13a {Mammoth Bar/Auburn Limestone Quarry - Auburn}
New and old lead and TR climbs brought back to life and some new first ascents and more potential at The Bar on the Middle Fork of the American River at Mammoth Bar Park ~5.8-5.12!? At the nearby Auburn Limestone Quarry one of the best lines finally got established, "Bat Karma" 5.13a FA Jim Thornburg is the single most newsworthy hard new first ascent route at The Limestone Quarry.
FA - Quarry: Jim Thornburg / FA - The Bar: CS + ??

KcKee Park Boulders and Three Rocks {Potter Valley - Mendocino County}
Old bouldering area brought back to life with many new classic problems and potential for more! Also some DWS / Deep Water Solo mixed with "shallow water solo" - R rated highballs!
FA's: CS, RT, JA, AC, SR

"Ghost Dance" V11r and Twin Peaks DWS! {Untamed Rocks - Mendocino County}
Highball arete/prow right off the hwy/US101! 
FA - V11r: Giovanni "G" Traversi / FA - DWS: Steven Wheeler (V0/1-V4/5.11+!?) + CS (VB/V0)

"Swallow Crack" 5.10 + new start to Green/Black Slab {Swallow Rock - Mendocino County}
First ascent - Mendo mega classic TR splitter dihedral/corner crack or gear swallowing trad lead!
FA's + 2nd ascents/recleaning/rebirthing: CS, Matt Suddock, John Gruey, Covelo Crew etc..!?

The Sweet Boulder {topo-secret}
Since the neighboring and amazing Sweet Boulders have been closed :( due to a house being built next to them this fun overlooked old boulder was brought to life by awesome inspired local first ascentionist pioneer Travis Lombardo (author of the classic "Cave Spider" on Dutch Bill Boulder)!
FA's: Travis Lombardo, CS, G, ??

"Pipedream Sit" ~V7/8/9ish!? {topo-secret / near Sugarloaf Ridge}
Long standing low sit local dream project over a drainage pipe alongside a dirt road with a view!
FA: Gustav Zacharias

The Chatterbox and Big Pyramid Boulder and others! {Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma County}
Newly discovered boulders at Sugarloaf Ridge bring new life back to the park! The new line "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 up the center dihedral of the Big Pyramid is an instant classic!
FA's: Darren "Splitclimber" Wiemeyer

Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville {Lake, Napa, Yolo Counties}
A lot of new and some old boulder problems have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville areas.
FA's: CS, SB, ??

The Preserve {topo-secret}
A lot of new schist boulders with many classic new highball boulder problems have been found deep in the private nature preserves in West Sonoma Counties lush redwood forests.
FA's: Zach Anaya, Jason Kevin Moehlman, Ashley Freeman, CS, TL, GT, ??

South Bay Area / Big Sur Bouldering! {Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur}
A lot of new and some old bouldering areas have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur areas.
FA's: Sharma, AC, ??

~A lot more went down than this recently in the Bay Area climbing scene but it was either at very secret/private areas or was not quite as cool, I forgot or I don't care :) I'm not getting paid for this so you get what you get - enjoy!

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