Saturday, March 19, 2016

West Sonoma County ~topo secret/private~ Bouldering

This is a list of boulder problems at secret areas and not a list of directions to those areas. This list is for locals to share info and to document the history. All of these areas have constantly changing access issues and require word of mouth from locals for directions. Almost all of the publicly accessible bouldering areas can be found in the many guidebooks and online climbing databases but directions to these secret areas must never be publicized out of respect for landowners and locals. Only ~50% of the bouldering areas in Sonoma County are in guidebooks, the rest and a lot of the best have access issues or at least access concerns and directions to all of those precious areas have to be kept topo secret :)

~~500 topo secret boulder problems VB-V13 total !

-Not complete ~ ongoing updates ~ mostly only classics and main lines listed:



WEST SONOMA COUNTY
Bohemian Falls {bad access?}
V0R*** FA:TL
V1R** FA:TL
V2R*** FA:TL
Bathtub Arete V3**** FA:TL
Bathtub Face V4** FA:TL

Boho
Boho Face V6***** FA:RT
Boho Arete V6*** FA:RT
Broken Heart V8*** FA:CS
Boho Traverse V3** FA:CS
Boho Sit V6*** FA:RT
V6** FA:SB

Upper Boho
Bohemian Crapsody V6** left arete sit pull around left onto slab top out FA:CS
Bohemian Rhapsody V5*** left arete direct into high right top out. FA:CS
New Bohemian V1** right arete sit V0/1** stand FA:CS
V!? center face!?

Cascade
Cascade Face V1*** FA:AS
Cascade Face Direct V2*** FA:AS
Cascade Traverse V4*** FA:CS


Dutch Bill
Cave Spider V4***** FA:TL
Cave Spider Direct V5***** FA:TL
Dutch Belly V7*** or V8***** FA:RT/TT
Dutch Rudder V6*** FA:AC
Long Bottom V4*** FA:TL
Banana Thug V5*** FA:TL
Riding The Rails V6** FA:TL
Fox Trot V6** FA:CS
Cave Dutchie V6** FA:CS
Buddhas Underbelly V9*** FA:SB
Pass The Dutchie V10**** FA:GT
Flying Dutchman V11*** FA:GT

Lower Dutch Bill
V2** FA:CS
V4*** FA:CS

Camp Meeker {bad access?}
V7*** FA:RT
V8*** FA:RT
V3*** FA:RT
V3*** FA:AS
V1*** FA:BS
{Odessas Boulder}
Transcendence V1 sit start far right FA:NEB
Transcendence Traverse V3 low left sit or Transcendence Direct V4 left sit FA:CS
The Odyssey V6 low left arete sit start in creek or V5 left mid jug start FA:CS
Odin V2 low right sit or Odin Direct V5 low left sit direct up face FA:CS

Wild Turkey
Wild Turkey V7***** FA:RT

Freestone Boulder
Bum Rush V2** low stand FA:RA
Bum Rush Sit V4** low sit FA:CS
Freemantle V5/6** sit FA:CS
Freemason V6/7/8**!?

Coleman Valley
V0** FA:CS
V2** FA:CS
V4** FA:CB/RS

Willow Creek
V0** FA:CS
V4** FA:CS


NORTHWEST CENTRAL SONOMA COUNTY
Sweet Boulder
V0-V6**** FA:TL/CS/? + Sweet Boulder Traverse V9** FA:GT

Sweet Boulders CLOSED {bad access?}
Sweet Crack V0R***** FA:CS/SB/RE/etc.. + 50~ VB-V8 RIP

Westside Rocks {bad access?}
V****!!?? FA:JM,MN,SC


NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
The Garage
V1-V3*** FA:CS/RP

Bei
V0-V4*** FA:E?

The Matrix Boulders {bad access?}
Christal Crack V0** FA:CS
Christal Traverse V1* FA:CS
V1 FA:JK
V2 FA:JK
Fiber Optics V2*** FA:JK
Fiber Optics Traverse V3** FA:CS
V3**** FA:JK
Akilleaze V5*** FA:JK
Achilles Arete VB*** FA:CS

The Music Box
!?

Headstash
Headstash V2*** FA:KA
Don't Believe The Hype V7*** FA:RE
V6*** FA:KA
V5** FA:KA
V4** FA:KA

Kenny's Secret Spot {bad access?}
V4***** FA:KA
V5**** FA:?
V!?

The Stronghold
Eat Schist V6**** FA:CS
Eat Schist Direct V6**** FA:CS
Stronghold Slab V0*** FA:CS/RE
Last Stand V7** FA:CS
Quickening V6*** FA:CS
Quickness V5**** FA:CS/RE
Quicker V5** FA:CS

Emerald Triangle
Emerald Triangle V4*** FA:CS
Emerald Triangle traverse V5** FA:CS
V1*** FA:CS

Snaggletooth Camel Boulders {bad access?}
Saucy V6*** FA:CS
Spicy V5*** FA:CM
Scary V4*** FA:CS
Stripe V6***** FA:CS
Flower Power V6*** FA:SB
V6R*** FA:RT
Snaggletooth Camel V1** FA:RE
Redwoods and Rain V4*** FA:RE
Log Jam V3*** FA:CS
Camel Toe V5**** FA:RE
Camel Toe Sit V8***** FA:CB
Fight The Power V7*** FA:CS
Camel Jockey V1** FA:CS
V5*** FA:RE
V4** FA:RE
V3*** FA:RE
V2*** FA:RE
V1*** FA:RE
V0** FA:RE
V0** FA:CS
V0*** FA:PB

Slither/Stigmata
Frog Face V3*** FA:CS
V6*** (V? unrepeated since hold broke) FA:MP
Middle Man V6**** FA:RT
Slither V7***** FA:CS
Hand Of Perseus V12***** FA:CT
Stigmata V13***** (was V11 but crux hold broke now V13!?) FA(V11): KJ / FA(V13): GT
Adrift V13***** FA:GT
V7*** or V10** FA(V7):SB / FA(V10):GT
V4*** FA:RE?
V6** FA:RT?

Area 51 {bad access?}
V2** FA: RE
ET V4***** FA:CS
Close Encounters V5***** FA:RE
Communion V8** FA:CS
Alien Crank Fiend V3*** FA:CS
Crank Fiend Traverse V4** FA:CS
Crank Fiend Dyno V4*** FA:CS or direct V5** FA:CB
Area 51 Traverse V4** FA:CS

Black Bart Boulders {bad access?}
Black Bart Arete V0R* FA:CS
Black Bart Crack V0**** FA:CS/RE
Black Bart Slab V0** FA:KA
Battleship V6**** FA: KA
Shipwreck V6**** FA:KA/RB/CS/TL
Walk The Plank V6*** FA: CS
Athletes Foot V2*** FA:KA
Black Bart Traverse V3**** FA:CS
Black Bart Face V1*** FA:RE/CS
Crazy Train V5*** FA:SB
Soul Train V8*** FA:KA/CS
Hold Up V4*** FA:CS
Hijacked V7**** FA:RE
V9*** FA:RB?
V3R*** FA:KA
V2R** FA:CS
V1R* FA:KA

Phantom Boulder
V6*** FA:CS (HOLD BROKE - new project!?)
V5*** FA:CB
V4*** FA:RE
FA: V4*** FA:CS
Phantom Traverse V5** FA:CS

Roadside Busted {bad access?}
5.12D*** TR FA:MN (V7*** (drop off) FA:GT)

Busted {bad access?}
V2*** FA:CS (Overgrown)
Busted 5.9****!? FA:!?
Calypso V7****!? FA:!?
+!!??:)

Panorama {bad access?}
Fern Face V0* FA:CS
Fern Traverse V1** FA:CS
Fern Bern V4** FA:CS
Leave it to Weaver V1** FA:JK
Cricket Tempo V1** FA:JK
Fruit of the Loom V0** or direct V1** FA:CS
Fruits of Labor V1*** or direct V2*** FA:JK,CS
Redman V5*** FA:JK
Medicine Man V6**** FA:JK
Chief Raincloud V5***** FA:JK
Raindance V5**** FA:JK
Sundance V4*** FA:JK
Sundance Traverse V4** FA:CS
Raincloud Traverse V6*** FA:CS
+*****!!??

The Old Preserve {bad access?}
V0-V4*** FA:RE/CS


FAR WEST SONOMA COUNTY
The Preserve {bad access?}
The Oracle V4***** FA:JK
Oracle Traverse V6** FA:CS
Lumberjacked V5***** FA:JK
One Fell Swoop V3**** FA:ZA
Babe V2*** FA:AF
Invisible Foot V7*** FA:JK
Brain Scar V3**** FA:JK
Domatrix V3*** FA:JK
Morla The Ancient One V3R**** FA:TL
Invite Only V4R*** FA:ZA


FAR NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Moonrise {bad access?}
New Moon V11***** FA:KJ
Full Moon V11*** FA:RE
Kick Me V10**** FA:MN
V10*** FA:RE
V10*** FA:GT
V10**** FA:CT
V9*** FA:CB
Dragon Moon V8**** FA:CS
Bad Moon Rising V5**** sit - or stand start V3R**** FA:CS
Moonrise V0R***** FA:CS/RE
Green Rip V4**** FA:CS
Spider Man V6**** FA:CS
Tore Back V7**** FA:RE
V6*** FA:RE

Excalibur {bad access?}
Excalibur V4***** FA:CS
Merlin V5**** FA:CS
Squeeze Me Macaroni V6*** FA:MN
Reamnesia V4** FA:CS

King Ridge Boulders {bad access?}
Scepter V0*** FA:CS/JK
Jester V2*** FA:CS/JK
King Salamander V4*** FA:CS/JK


FAR FAR NORTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Skaggs Crags {bad access?}
5.9**** FA:CS
V3/4** FA:CS

Bonnies Boulder
V0-V5**** FA:BH

Deliverance {bad access?}
Deliverance V5**** FA:RE?

Northwest Lake Sonoma/Shady Boulders {bad access?}
!?


SOUTHWEST SONOMA COUNTY
Valley Ford Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V3** FA:AS

Two Rocks {bad access?}
!? FA:RT

Bodega Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V5*** FA:JD

Bodega Bay Boulders {bad access?}
VB-V4** FA:?

Chileno Valley {bad access?}
!?





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